Softness again, is the subject too small (far away) am I asking too much?

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

I was using the A92, I guess it is the same as the A992 in your article. Eric is correct, that second image is a global edit I ran thru Topaz, Denoise and then Topaz Sharpen all on Auto setting. I wasn't trying to show a final image just why it isn't sharp at capture. Using the A92 in Zone mode on a flying bird, isn't necessarily hard, if the background is far away or a clear sky the little green Af points are dancing all over the bird, sometime 3 of them sometimes all of them.So if the camera has locked focus (or did it) , why is the image soft? Maybe Ziggy is correct that Medium Spot in more accurate? But trying to keep a single AF point kind of defeats the Zone mode function. Are there Sony Shooters experiencing the same thing? THANKS
 
I was using the A92, I guess it is the same as the A992 in your article. Eric is correct, that second image is a global edit I ran thru Topaz, Denoise and then Topaz Sharpen all on Auto setting. I wasn't trying to show a final image just why it isn't sharp at capture. Using the A92 in Zone mode on a flying bird, isn't necessarily hard, if the background is far away or a clear sky the little green Af points are dancing all over the bird, sometime 3 of them sometimes all of them.So if the camera has locked focus (or did it) , why is the image soft? Maybe Ziggy is correct that Medium Spot in more accurate? But trying to keep a single AF point kind of defeats the Zone mode function. Are there Sony Shooters experiencing the same thing? THANKS
I use the A9 and A7R III Andy. It is possible to see the green boxes on the bird and have soft focus (or none) but this is fairly rare.
For long shots like these the first thing I'd do for diagnosis is use that program to show what's happening with AF. Then use 1/4000. Then swap OSS to whichever mode I hadn't been using among 2 or 3 (some users stick with 3 for all BIF shots but IMO it does cost you sharpness in panning).
Once you've eliminated the easy explanations you can consider the systemic ones.
 
Were you hand holding your camera/ lens, or did you have it on a tripod? Hand holding, I can farble the focus even at 1/1000 sec. or more. Great shot, but the Denoise left a light, sharp outline around the wings, which does not look natural! For not really wildlife photos, go where birds are habituated to people, and/or you are allowed closer, and practice there.
 
The OP says A92 which is a rather different beast.

The OP's lens is 200-600, an E-mount lens so I believe the camera body is not an older A-mount SLT model. A92 as I interpret it is another way to write a9 II. I have not found any reference to any SLT model called A92.
 
See posts 25 & 26.
The A92 is an A mount body, either an SLT-A99V or ILCA-99M2, used with an adapter. Or he's confused about what he's got.

Please post a reference to this camera. I am unable to find any reference to this model, and how a Sony 200-600 can fit an A-mount camera. The short mount register of this E-mount lens prevents use on an A-mount body.
 
I gave you the Sony model codes. Google failed to return any info on them?

So far the OPer has read a piece on A92 AF and didn't find it alien. So I've assumed that's what he's using. If he meant A9 II or A9 Mark 2 almost all of the advice given here is still relevant, except the SLT system would cost him more light.
 
I gave you the Sony model codes. Google failed to return any info on them?

So far the OPer has read a piece on A92 AF and didn't find it alien. So I've assumed that's what he's using. If he meant A9 II or A9 Mark 2 almost all of the advice given here is still relevant, except the SLT system would cost him more light.

I haven't found any models that match the codes you mentioned. In another thread where the OP says he wishes the Nikon Z cameras were more like the Sony, he refers to the Nikon mirrorless cameras as Z62 and Z72 while calling his Sony A92 so it seems clear he means Sony a9 II, the current mirrorless E-mount camera not an older SLT camera. The advice to check AF micro adjustment does not apply to this camera.
 
Lenses can front- and back-focus with both mirrorless and DSLR, so checking that is always worth doing once you've dealt with the simple causes of soft images.
Soft images from the FE 200-600 is one of the most posted about issues in the Sony world and dedicated forums will give the OPer plenty of good advice.
The OPer doesn't seem to have run with any of the advice here so I'm not going to waste my breath any further.
 
Ziggy, Thanks for the advice and the time to post. I have a new SONY A 9 II. It is a E mount with a new 200-600 Sony lens. I have been using all of the advice given here and have rented another copy of the lens to shoot side by side. My original question is the image acceptable using this gear. Focus points all dancing on the Harrier and multiple bursts with the same result. I am headed out today and tomorrow to shoot them side by side. I am hoping that the issues was lens based or technique based since I can fix those issues. If the Combo will "grab focus" but not really than that is a different issue. There is a ton of beautiful imagery taken with my combo all over the internet, so I am assuming my issue is my technique or the lens is having an issue. As to technique I am following the advice of many on this forum and will report my findings sometime in the next few days.
Appreciate the time all took to comment.
 
Sorry for the delay in response. I sent my lens back to Sony and received a Sony Loaner. Sony cost service is top notch by the way!. There was a significant difference shooting my copy and the Loaner copy. It turns out my lens mount had a flaw and is on its way back to me. Since I have had the loaner I shoot it almost every day with and without the 1.4 tc. I do notice the the Sony 200-600 in both my copy and the loaner are sharper the faster the shutter speed. 3200 to 4000 if things are moving and even stationary objects tend to need a faster shutter if you can afford the higher ISO. Appreciate the advice, Thanks
 
Back
Top