rjpawl
Member
Z1.4 on a 180-600 (Z8) works very nicely. I'll even say amazing, however, I'll only use it on sunny days.
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Yep…definitely worth it. I have both of them but the 2x is much less used. I have zero issues with using the 1.4.Hi there,
I have a Nikon Z8 camera with a 180-600mm lens and I mainly shoot wildlife. I would like to know if any of you have bought the Nikon Z 1.4 teleconverter. Are you happy with it? Do the photos stay sharp and of good quality? Is it worth buying?
I'd like to know what you think as I'm thinking of buying one.
Thank you very much!
I do not shot the 180-600mm. I went all in to the Z8, and finally sold my D500 breaking my budget (and more). I kept my 500PF, and use the FTZ and 1.4 iii on it. I’m blown away how well it performs in both focus speed and detail. Detail holds up to pixel peeping pretty wellHi there,
I have a Nikon Z8 camera with a 180-600mm lens and I mainly shoot wildlife. I would like to know if any of you have bought the Nikon Z 1.4 teleconverter. Are you happy with it? Do the photos stay sharp and of good quality? Is it worth buying?
I'd like to know what you think as I'm thinking of buying one.
Thank you very much!
Doug, your images illustrate my point namely the TC can help if the subject is already large in the frame and is relatively close. Those who think that employing a TC on a small subject at long distances will magically produce images as fine as yours is suspending physics. For example, I was out chasing Snowies today and the lovely lady was perched on a stump some 150-200 yds away. A TC on the 800mm was of little use since she was small in the frame and atmospherics were in play as well. Thanks for sharing some nice captures.I figured pairing it with the Z 800mm would be the acid test. I’m more than pleased with the results.
Beautiful DougI figured pairing it with the Z 800mm would be the acid test. I’m more than pleased with the results.View attachment 104984View attachment 104985
Thank you!Beautiful Doug![]()
Wearing my PAGB judging hat – this I regard as a very strong image.Usually very difficult to get close to the Cormorants here in my neck of the woods...err...wetlands, but with the 1.4TC on the ASP-C body, and a 100% crop, can get good close-up shots. Anyway, sharpness once again on a pretty decent level, considering.
View attachment 105234
In the background based on my recently working with relatively novice smart phone users - probably over 95% of smart phone users do not know how to get an image from a smart phone on to a computer and can only view images at a size too small to record much of the detail "we" can see on a decent size monitor.Shot on my Wife's Z50II, 400 4.5 with 1.4TC at 840mm equivalent. Absolutely lovely lens for macro, if you don't have one! Adjusted color to approximate real-life tone. Cropped 100%, and resized 50% to fit to forum upload restrictions.
Not sacrificing much in terms of sharpness with the 1.4TC, tbh, at least IMHO.
View attachment 105233
Hi Len,Wearing my PAGB judging hat – this I regard as a very strong image.
The tip of the beak being pin-sharp, the quality of the lighting in the yellow area on the under-side of the head, the piercing green eyes looking towards the photographer, the colour combination of yellows and greens working well and the diffuse light tone green background make it 100% clear what a viewer (or judge) is meant to be looking at.
Perhaps more important – what a viewer is meant to be looking at is remarkably good and well captured.
Getting technical one of the pluses of a crop sensor is well illustrated here in that when you cannot get close enough a crop sensor can put more MP on the subject than cropped 24 MP FX, leading to a sharper (higher resolution) image, aided in this image by decent lighting adding modelling and increased perceived sharpness.
Getting even more technical starting with a DX crop and using a 1.4 TC adds about 2 stops (double) depth of field helping reduce the fall off in sharpness toward the rear of the birds head.
Even so I would like to see a comparison image upping ISO maybe 1.5 stops and stopping down to around f11 to reduce this zone of sharpness fall-off.
I expect you know if doing this puts too much detail in the diffuse background, "softening" it takes no more than 30 seconds in something like Lightroom.
Some keyboard warriors say that this quality of result is impossible with a crop sensor and cropped image - and some real-world photographers demonstrate (I hope I am not breaking forum rules) some keyboard warriors talk through their annus.
By all means experimentHi Len,
Edit: Appreciate your further feedback on the Honeybee, will also stop down on that one, perhaps pop off the TC, as I can get quite close to them. More later!
At the basic level good photography is about getting your feet in the right place and pressing the shutter at the right moment.Sometimes we do get a bit lucky, especially with this subject, as he was literally glaring at me, ready to take flight at any moment. I had to be slow with my movements, reminds me of my days in the army on the mid-80’s,
Well said, Len.Wearing my PAGB judging hat – this I regard as a very strong image.
The tip of the beak being pin-sharp, the quality of the lighting in the yellow area on the under-side of the head, the piercing green eyes looking towards the photographer, the colour combination of yellows and greens working well and the diffuse light tone green background make it 100% clear what a viewer (or judge) is meant to be looking at.
Perhaps more important – what a viewer is meant to be looking at is remarkably good and well captured.
Getting technical one of the pluses of a crop sensor is well illustrated here in that when you cannot get close enough a crop sensor can put more MP on the subject than cropped 24 MP FX, leading to a sharper (higher resolution) image, aided in this image by decent lighting adding modelling and increased perceived sharpness.
Getting even more technical starting with a DX crop and using a 1.4 TC adds about 2 stops (double) depth of field helping reduce the fall off in sharpness toward the rear of the birds head.
Even so I would like to see a comparison image upping ISO maybe 1.5 stops and stopping down to around f11 to reduce this zone of sharpness fall-off.
I expect you know if doing this puts too much detail in the diffuse background, "softening" it takes no more than 30 seconds in something like Lightroom.
Some keyboard warriors say that this quality of result is impossible with a crop sensor and cropped image - and some real-world photographers demonstrate (I hope I am not breaking forum rules) some keyboard warriors talk through their annus.