VR or not to VR, that is the question

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The recommendation to test the VR the way you shoot is excellent. I had one condition that I think VR caused an issue but I did not investigated it. I set the camera to take three bracketed shots. The camera was on a tripod, a remote cord was used to fire she shutter, and the timer setting was used so the camera would make the three exposures instead of my firing the shutter 3 times. In a number of groups, the first image in the group was not aligned with the second and third image. When I discovered the issue I quit using VR with bracketing with that lens and I never investigated further. For single shots, the lens seemed to work fine. Last year I damaged the lens beyond economical repair so I may never know if the issue was just that lens or VR in general. I use bracketing so little it is not a concern for me.
 
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David W said:
The recommendation to test the VR the way you shoot is excellent. I had one condition that I think VR caused an issue but I did not investigated it. I set the camera to take three bracketed shots. The camera was on a tripod, a remote cord was used to fire she shutter, and the timer setting was used so the camera would make the three exposures instead of my firing the shutter 3 times. In a number of groups, the first image in the group was not aligned with the second and third image. When I discovered the issue I quit using VR with bracketing with that lens and I never investigated further. For single shots, the lens seemed to work fine. Last year I damaged the lens beyond economical repair so I may never know if the issue was just that lens or VR in general. I use bracketing so little it is not a concern for me.
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You have to watch drawing conclusions with a long lens based on using a shutter release. Some cameras and lenses are particularly prone to shutter shock - vibration caused by the shutter. It's especially problematic with light weight lenses that extend when you zoom. In my testing, a long lens needs to be tested using Long Lens Technique - a hand or weight on the lens barrel to dampen vibration. Otherwise vibration from the shutter or other factors is a major cause of softness. Obviously you can't retest but it's something to consider.
 
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EricBowles said:
You have to watch drawing conclusions with a long lens based on using a shutter release. Some cameras and lenses are particularly prone to shutter shock - vibration caused by the shutter. It's especially problematic with light weight lenses that extend when you zoom. In my testing, a long lens needs to be tested using Long Lens Technique - a hand or weight on the lens barrel to dampen vibration. Otherwise vibration from the shutter or other factors is a major cause of softness. Obviously you can't retest but it's something to consider.
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The lens was a short zoom and was not zoomed very far out. I didn't see any issues with that lens with a single image. It was only when doing multiple of shots in series for bracketing and the first exposure was sharp but offset slightly from the other two when I tried to combine the images. I'll have to do some testing to see if I can duplicate the issue to other lenses. The lens is a kit lens that I had used quite a bit.
 
EricBowles said:
You have to watch drawing conclusions with a long lens based on using a shutter release. Some cameras and lenses are particularly prone to shutter shock - vibration caused by the shutter. It's especially problematic with light weight lenses that extend when you zoom. In my testing, a long lens needs to be tested using Long Lens Technique - a hand or weight on the lens barrel to dampen vibration. Otherwise vibration from the shutter or other factors is a major cause of softness. Obviously you can't retest but it's something to consider.
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When I start playing with night photos on the deck I start noticing the various effects of VR on a tripod mounted tele lens. It can really exaggerate things.
 
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At speeds greater than 1/500 Nikon recommends turning VR off and they have a solid understanding of VR and their lenses. I can see that VR must first stabilize the image before the autofocus system can start to establish that the subject is in focus. For a fast moving subject VR is not effective and is deterimental.

But if I have a stationary subject and want to have the lens wide open and use as low a ISO setting as possible, then VR is what I use to get the sharpest possible pictures under the circumstances. Using VR does not negate the value of using good technique including mirror lock up and lens bracing etc.
 
I admit to having limited understanding of the VR system but that seems like an arbitrary number. Too many other factors involved...
 
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Hello everyone,
Just thought I'd share an interesting "test" from Brad Hill's website; Natural Art Images: (a few weeks back someone on this site recommended his website, sorry, I don't recall the person or thread),

"The two lenses that allowed me to consistently obtain sharp hand-held shots (with ALL shots in the burst sharp) at extremely slow shutter speeds were the Nikkor 120-300mm f2.8E and the Nikkor 180-400mm f4E. With these two lenses the VR Normal mode DEFINITELY permitted the use of slower shutter speeds than the VR Sport mode. While VR Sport mode didn't allow me to use the extremely slow shutter speeds that VR Normal did, it was the best mode to use when shooting bursts that required "stability" of images shot in a high-speed burst (as viewed through the viewfinder OR in the final image)."

And, "choosing the right VR mode is critical to using it effectively. For instance, if you are shooting a static subject with one of the two Nikkor zooms and are in a VERY low light situation and must use very slow shutter speeds, you'll DEFINITELY have a higher proportion of sharp shots (or keepers) if you use VR Normal mode. Conversely, if you're shooting bursts of a moving subject at "moderate" shutter speeds (e.g., about 1/125s or faster) you'll be able to control your composition better - and keep the focus bracket EXACTLY where you want it on your subject - if you choose VR Sport mode."
These quotes are from his testing the 120-300mm Nikkor lens to determine if it would meet his wildlife photography needs.

I want to thank the person who suggested this site, I've found it to be very informative. Like Steve, he "tests" cameras and lenses 'in the field' to see how they perform.
Hope this helps,
Charles
 
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Charles said:
Hello everyone,
Just thought I'd share an interesting "test" from Brad Hill's website; Natural Art Images: (a few weeks back someone on this site recommended his website, sorry, I don't recall the person or thread),

"The two lenses that allowed me to consistently obtain sharp hand-held shots (with ALL shots in the burst sharp) at extremely slow shutter speeds were the Nikkor 120-300mm f2.8E and the Nikkor 180-400mm f4E. With these two lenses the VR Normal mode DEFINITELY permitted the use of slower shutter speeds than the VR Sport mode. While VR Sport mode didn't allow me to use the extremely slow shutter speeds that VR Normal did, it was the best mode to use when shooting bursts that required "stability" of images shot in a high-speed burst (as viewed through the viewfinder OR in the final image)."

And, "choosing the right VR mode is critical to using it effectively. For instance, if you are shooting a static subject with one of the two Nikkor zooms and are in a VERY low light situation and must use very slow shutter speeds, you'll DEFINITELY have a higher proportion of sharp shots (or keepers) if you use VR Normal mode. Conversely, if you're shooting bursts of a moving subject at "moderate" shutter speeds (e.g., about 1/125s or faster) you'll be able to control your composition better - and keep the focus bracket EXACTLY where you want it on your subject - if you choose VR Sport mode."
These quotes are from his testing the 120-300mm Nikkor lens to determine if it would meet his wildlife photography needs.

I want to thank the person who suggested this site, I've found it to be very informative. Like Steve, he "tests" cameras and lenses 'in the field' to see how they perform.
Hope this helps,
Charles
Click to expand...
His observations match mine as well.
 
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The right OSS mode on my Sonys is important to sharpness too.
(A9, A7R III, FE100-400, FE400 2.8)

That manufacturers offer a panning mode on lenses indicates that vibration reduction interferes with something.
 
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Thom Hogan's piece on VR reports erratic loss of edge acuity with the setting on and shutters over 1/500s.

I've been doing handheld sessions with a newly acquired 500 PF on a D500 and VR off.

I'm finding pretty consistent mild softness when handheld at 1/1250s and pretty consistent greater sharpness at 1/3200s. I'll try VR on next because having to shoot at that speed requires good light all the time.
 
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