Specifically I'm referring to those of you who take a boat, canoe, kayak, or similar out for pictures. It’s something I’ve thought of doing but never have done it. So wanted to see what you all who have done it think. Is it worthwhile? Does it need to be oar driven or motor? What kind of life jacket do you use? What do you recommend for someone who has no background or experience with water travel? I’m looking at some inflatable crafts from Sea Eagle/Zodiac but not convinced it’s a good idea for me…
Watercraft
- Thread starter TurtleCat
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I shoot from various boats, mostly kayaks and canoes but occasionally rafts. It's a great way to get close to waterfowl and other wildlife.
For someone with no water experience I'd recommend something like a wide sit on top kayak designed for fishing. These tend to be very stable and you sit low to the water which is good for both photography and stability. I paddle in canoes and kayaks but there are pedal drive sit on top kayaks out there that may have some photography advantages as they free up both hands but let you keep moving slowly towards wildlife subjects.
A good PFD (life jacket) is important especially in deeper water. If you go the paddle craft route like a kayak, canoe or similar then definitely get a PFD designed for paddling with larger arm cutouts as many non-paddling PFDs can be uncomfortable and lead to chafing around the armpits if they lack sufficient room for paddling. Many brands out there but I like Astral and NRS products though they're not the least expensive.
If you do pick up some kind of boat, I'd strongly recommend getting it out on the water on a nice warm day without any camera gear and getting comfortable in it before loading it up with expensive photo gear. When you do get around to photography, I always put my camera gear in good roll top dry bags for getting in and out of the craft and only bring out the gear when things are stable and I'm out on the water. Most capsizes happen while folks are getting into and out of their boats so keep the gear protected for immersion during those phases secured and in good dry bags.
That is some fabulous advice, thank you!
That was some great boating advice.
It helps with canoes if you need some more stability to drop into the canoe on your knees rather than sit on the seat, the canoe will be far more stable. Always think of a canoe having a line down the middle like a long board or tightrope and remember to stay close to the CG.
The Hobiecat peddle drive kayaks would be outstanding camera platforms.
It helps with canoes if you need some more stability to drop into the canoe on your knees rather than sit on the seat, the canoe will be far more stable. Always think of a canoe having a line down the middle like a long board or tightrope and remember to stay close to the CG.
The Hobiecat peddle drive kayaks would be outstanding camera platforms.
Interesting topic, thanks for posting.
My main thinking for inflatables is for convenience. I don’t drive a truck or suv nor do I have a luggage rack. I was thinking that something I could inflate and deflate would take a lot of trouble out of the equation. And cost, lol.
There are some very good inflatables out there and yeah it does make transport easier but of course you have to inflate and deflate them which takes time and effort. I'd look for an inflatable with drop stitch construction, especially the floor as they're more rigid when inflated making a more solid platform. Again one that's designed for fishing tends to be more stable than something geared towards running rivers.
If you go the inflatable route in addition to the supplied hand pump I'd also pick up a good powered inflation pump that can save a lot of effort and a bit of time. My wife and I picked up a couple of inflatable stand up paddle boards and after a dozen times hand pumping them we picked up an Outdoor Master Shark II electric pump which has made life much easier.
Woody Meristem
Well-known member
My canoe of choice is a Hornbeck Lost Pond Boat; 10'6" (now called the Classic), weighs less than 16 pounds, low seat (three inches above the floor) and very stable, paddled with a double-bladed paddle (although I often carry a child's canoe paddle along for stealth), plenty of room for camera gear. These boats are great for lakes or ponds, not good for white water IMO.
My PFD is one I got from Old Town a number of years ago that's no longer available. I'd recommend that whatever PFD you get not have flotation low in the back where it would be between your back and the back of the seat in any canoe or kayak you might get -- I've found low flotation forces me to sit forward in the seat which is very uncomfortable.
My PFD is one I got from Old Town a number of years ago that's no longer available. I'd recommend that whatever PFD you get not have flotation low in the back where it would be between your back and the back of the seat in any canoe or kayak you might get -- I've found low flotation forces me to sit forward in the seat which is very uncomfortable.
Mdf123
Active member
I kayak on average 3 days a week unless if the ice prohibits me from launching which is not a significant problem where I live. I use a rigid kayak when home and have a Sea Eagle for travelling. The Sea Eagle works great.
You did not mention what type of water (ocean, lake, etc.) you would be paddling on or what seasons. In warm weather on relatively calm water I would recommend a U S Coast Guard approved life belt that will inflate if necessary. This device does not limit your range of motion and is much cooler to wear than the best mesh type vest, in the winter on open or rough flowing water I would use a more standard type vest.
The Sea Eagles range in price from a couple of hundred dollars to a couple thousand. Needless to say the higher end models give you a more comfortable ride. I have the SE 370 which is spacious and fairly easy to maneuver, that said the ride is not as fluid as with a rigid hull, but the benefits outweigh that in some circumstances. P.S. always bring a dry bag for all camera equipment regardless of the weather at the time of launch, and always assume you and your equipment may be in the water especially when getting in and out of the kayak.
You did not mention what type of water (ocean, lake, etc.) you would be paddling on or what seasons. In warm weather on relatively calm water I would recommend a U S Coast Guard approved life belt that will inflate if necessary. This device does not limit your range of motion and is much cooler to wear than the best mesh type vest, in the winter on open or rough flowing water I would use a more standard type vest.
The Sea Eagles range in price from a couple of hundred dollars to a couple thousand. Needless to say the higher end models give you a more comfortable ride. I have the SE 370 which is spacious and fairly easy to maneuver, that said the ride is not as fluid as with a rigid hull, but the benefits outweigh that in some circumstances. P.S. always bring a dry bag for all camera equipment regardless of the weather at the time of launch, and always assume you and your equipment may be in the water especially when getting in and out of the kayak.
Great point about types of water. For me it would be rivers and all the rivers are controlled by dams. And I know enough to be nowhere near a dam 
Having no real experience on the water all of this is giving me a good sense of what I’d need to learn before attempting something like that. So I really appreciate all the replies!
Having no real experience on the water all of this is giving me a good sense of what I’d need to learn before attempting something like that. So I really appreciate all the replies!
I use a kayak, 14 ft closed cockpit.
I use a inflatable PFD rated for open water
I never go out with a PLB - my choice is the Ocean Signal PLB1
I use a inflatable PFD rated for open water
I never go out with a PLB - my choice is the Ocean Signal PLB1
Calson
Well-known member
I have used both small and large inflattable boats, sit-on-top kayaks and pedal drive as well as paddle only ones. Where I live it is primarily salt water and so I worry about salt water dripping down from the paddle and onto my hands/gloves and getting on my camera and lens. The pedal drive Hobie eliminated this concern and also pedaling was less likely to bother water fowl than waving a paddle about.
Another consideration is being able to stop at a location and if possible to go in reverse. Some of the pedal drive units allow for moving the boat backwards. Saturn makes some relatively inexpensive pedal drive inflatable kayaks.
There is also the option of an electric drive unit that eliminates the need to paddle or pedal altogether. The cleanest setup I have found are the Bixby drive units that have been perfected over many years. There are kayaks by Sea Eagle that come from the factory with a keel mount for the Bixby drives which is pretty sweet.
There are both Bixby and other drive units that can slide into a bay of the kayak and removed when beaching the kayak. I can always hop off the kayak in shallow water and remove the Bixby drive motor so I do not see that as a concern where I go.
Allow space for your camera gear and have it available for ready access. There are triangular bags designed for kayak fisher folk that also lens themseleves to holdnig a camera with a long lens attached. Important to tether the bag or case to the boat so if you flip it your gear does not go to the bottom.
With the inflatable kayaks there is no need for a roof rack or trailer and storage at home is easier to manage. They are also much lighter than the molded plastic kayaks.
Another consideration is being able to stop at a location and if possible to go in reverse. Some of the pedal drive units allow for moving the boat backwards. Saturn makes some relatively inexpensive pedal drive inflatable kayaks.
There is also the option of an electric drive unit that eliminates the need to paddle or pedal altogether. The cleanest setup I have found are the Bixby drive units that have been perfected over many years. There are kayaks by Sea Eagle that come from the factory with a keel mount for the Bixby drives which is pretty sweet.
There are both Bixby and other drive units that can slide into a bay of the kayak and removed when beaching the kayak. I can always hop off the kayak in shallow water and remove the Bixby drive motor so I do not see that as a concern where I go.
Allow space for your camera gear and have it available for ready access. There are triangular bags designed for kayak fisher folk that also lens themseleves to holdnig a camera with a long lens attached. Important to tether the bag or case to the boat so if you flip it your gear does not go to the bottom.
With the inflatable kayaks there is no need for a roof rack or trailer and storage at home is easier to manage. They are also much lighter than the molded plastic kayaks.
Many years ago, I bought a Sea Eagle Fastrack 465ft for two and I used it many times mainly in Florida and here in Quebec; very handy, very stable and safe. After- sales service of SeaEagle is excellent; they send us a new inner membrane after we discovered a leak; when folded, the kayak is only 2 feet 4 inches long by 1 foot 8 inches large and 10 inches high; it takes only a few minutes to inflate the kayak and the seats with the foot pump that is supplied.
I don't have anything to add that DRWyoming and others haven't already covered.
I will add, from a practical perspective, whatever boat you get, take it out several times under different (SAFE) weather conditions before you put several thousand dollars worth of camera gear in it. In a swimming pool or in a very (and verified) shallow place, try to tip the boat over. Pick a warm day because you'll probably get wet. Doing this accomplishes 2 things, 1) you get a feel for when the boat is about to reach the point of no return, 2) you get some valuable experience under a controlled situation of getting back in the boat when it flips.
Also, if you're on a kayak or canoe, get very bright (like "road worker vest green" or "hunter orange") blades on the paddles. Especially if you're in an area where motorized boats are present. You would be surprised how many idiots just don't see you when they are motoring along. At least the bright color paddles can be waved over your head as a signal.
I'm not a fan of camouflaged kayaks or the "sky blue" ones. They blend into to well and I want to be as high visible as possible. My kayak is red. Not obnoxious bright but still red and my paddle blades are the "road worker vest green" color.
Another thing I would recommend is dry bags to keep your gear in and tether the dry bag to the boat. When moving, secure the camera gear in the dry bag. In the unlikely event you do flip the boat, your gear will remain dry and if it is tethered to the boat, you won't be wondering how you're going to dive down into 20 feet of water to get your gear back.
It is fun. I don't take my camera out as much as I should but I have been fishing from a kayak for years. One other tip, if the wind is blowing beware of how far you travel. It is really easy to paddle one direction but paddling the other direction can be quite difficult.
I will add, from a practical perspective, whatever boat you get, take it out several times under different (SAFE) weather conditions before you put several thousand dollars worth of camera gear in it. In a swimming pool or in a very (and verified) shallow place, try to tip the boat over. Pick a warm day because you'll probably get wet. Doing this accomplishes 2 things, 1) you get a feel for when the boat is about to reach the point of no return, 2) you get some valuable experience under a controlled situation of getting back in the boat when it flips.
Also, if you're on a kayak or canoe, get very bright (like "road worker vest green" or "hunter orange") blades on the paddles. Especially if you're in an area where motorized boats are present. You would be surprised how many idiots just don't see you when they are motoring along. At least the bright color paddles can be waved over your head as a signal.
I'm not a fan of camouflaged kayaks or the "sky blue" ones. They blend into to well and I want to be as high visible as possible. My kayak is red. Not obnoxious bright but still red and my paddle blades are the "road worker vest green" color.
Another thing I would recommend is dry bags to keep your gear in and tether the dry bag to the boat. When moving, secure the camera gear in the dry bag. In the unlikely event you do flip the boat, your gear will remain dry and if it is tethered to the boat, you won't be wondering how you're going to dive down into 20 feet of water to get your gear back.
It is fun. I don't take my camera out as much as I should but I have been fishing from a kayak for years. One other tip, if the wind is blowing beware of how far you travel. It is really easy to paddle one direction but paddling the other direction can be quite difficult.
Regarding convenience, see https://www.orukayak.com/. My wife and I both have the Lake version , their smallest. It folds up to the size of a suitcase, pretty quick to set up, only weighs 17 pounds. We can fit both of them plus our tandem bicycle in the back of our crossover EV. We frequently use them on our local reservoir, and also Elkhorn Slough, an estuarine wildlife preserve. The kayak is a lot of fun, light and pretty fast, yet very stable.
Calson
Well-known member
With the Hobie pedal kayak I could move through 8-10 mph headwinds or against a tidal flow with ease, which was not the case with paddling. The Bixby motor drives have been continually refined and now use a 12-hour lithium battery pack and this can make photography easier with forward and reverse speeds and makes it far easier to deal with wind and strong currents.
The concern about going where there are power boats is a valid one and in a kayak or inflatable one is often invisible to the person driving the boat. On my kayaks in the ocean I use a 4 foot flag to provide little more visibility, much like the ones used by scuba divers. Usually the jetski and ski boat people are out only during the hours of peak sunlight and so can usually be avoided.
Having hauled kayaks on roof racks an on special trailers the abilty to deflate a kayak and out it into a 30x19x9 inch size carry case that weighs 44 lbs is very appealing. If I park overnight at a hotel there is no worry about the kayak getting stolen when it is hidden inside my truck's bed.
Our Hobie Revolution 13 one person kayaks each weighed 70.5 lbs and that was a lot of weight to lift up on top my truck's roof rack that was 7 feet above the ground. Easier than a sit-in roto molded two person kayak that weighed more than 90 lbs. The two person Sea Eagle s65ft inflatable weighs 44 lbs which is much easier to manage.
A kayak type PFD will provide flotation and also serves as a waterproof vest so I can stay warmer.
The concern about going where there are power boats is a valid one and in a kayak or inflatable one is often invisible to the person driving the boat. On my kayaks in the ocean I use a 4 foot flag to provide little more visibility, much like the ones used by scuba divers. Usually the jetski and ski boat people are out only during the hours of peak sunlight and so can usually be avoided.
Having hauled kayaks on roof racks an on special trailers the abilty to deflate a kayak and out it into a 30x19x9 inch size carry case that weighs 44 lbs is very appealing. If I park overnight at a hotel there is no worry about the kayak getting stolen when it is hidden inside my truck's bed.
Our Hobie Revolution 13 one person kayaks each weighed 70.5 lbs and that was a lot of weight to lift up on top my truck's roof rack that was 7 feet above the ground. Easier than a sit-in roto molded two person kayak that weighed more than 90 lbs. The two person Sea Eagle s65ft inflatable weighs 44 lbs which is much easier to manage.
A kayak type PFD will provide flotation and also serves as a waterproof vest so I can stay warmer.
That’s pretty cool actually. I’m moving this year and the property is up against a large marsh where one of these would be super useful to explore around. I have a larger Canoe already but it’s not much fun to hike into places. It should be a great place for birding in the warmer months and very low if any travel by people.
Calson
Well-known member
A separate but important consideration is whether you plan to go on freshwater lakes and reservoirs. Thanks to ocean going ships and fishermen with live bait tank wells there has been a spread of invasive quagga and zebra muscles to many areas and they plug water pipes. Most of the reservoirs in southern California are infected but this means that regulations to protect fresh water lakes that are currently clear of them can limit when and how you can go on them with a boat. This means having the boat completely dry inside and out to pass the inspection.
For motors a 2-stroke outboard is not permitted on many fresh water bodies and a trolling motor and a battery offer a number of advantages. No issues with gas fumes with a trolling motor and battery inside a vehicle. The Bixby drive units with their lithium battery packs are the most sophisticated setup at this time.
Be careful about a 2-person boat as it may not hold two photographers with their gear and allow them both to be shooting at the same time.
For motors a 2-stroke outboard is not permitted on many fresh water bodies and a trolling motor and a battery offer a number of advantages. No issues with gas fumes with a trolling motor and battery inside a vehicle. The Bixby drive units with their lithium battery packs are the most sophisticated setup at this time.
Be careful about a 2-person boat as it may not hold two photographers with their gear and allow them both to be shooting at the same time.
Tomw
Member
Alway be careful of water temperatures.
"The National Center for Cold Water Safety recommends treating any water below 70 F/21 C with caution. Water temps below 60 F/15 C can be immediately life threatening due to “cold shock”—you lose breathing control, your heart and blood pressure are affected, and your ability to think clearly is impaired”
He is a the link.
www.coldwatersafety.org
"The National Center for Cold Water Safety recommends treating any water below 70 F/21 C with caution. Water temps below 60 F/15 C can be immediately life threatening due to “cold shock”—you lose breathing control, your heart and blood pressure are affected, and your ability to think clearly is impaired”
He is a the link.
What is Cold Water? | cold water safety
www.coldwatersafety.org
Thanks for all the info everyone! I will probably not just jump into this as I had originally thought. I will probably wait to see if I can "apprentice" with someone local who is familiar with the water.
Webbie!
Member
That is an extremely wise course of action.
As a longtime boat owner and SCUBA diver I have a healthy respect for water.
The appearance and behavior of water can change dramatically. At its worst conditions on water are not survivable.
There is a sailboat race called Sydney to Hobart. It runs between Sydney, Australia and Hobart, Tasmania. One year it happened to be run in "perfect storm" conditions. Large sailboat racing yachts were flipped upside down and dismasted. Several died, including some who suffered lethal injuries from being bounced around inside the boat.
Inland currents can get dangerous. There are places in British Columbia where strong currents can cause whirlpools that are strong enough to sink 90 ft long boats. I have personally been on board a 26 ft sailboat that encountered tidal rips. Six foot tall standing waves out of nowhere
The US Pacific hNorthwest is cold water territory. Even in the hottest summer days the salt water temperature is typically in the low 50's Fahrenheit. I grew up in the east coast which is noted for warm surf beaches in the summer. I tried to wade into a local beach in Seattle, I only got in to my knees and my calves started to turn numb. This was on a sunny summer day with the temperature in the 90's.
Water has 24 times the heat sapping ability compared to air. One degree difference in water is equivalent to 24 degrees difference in air,. Exposure to cold water can result in hypothermia and it can come on suddenly. You become incoherent and uncoordinated. You need to get out of the cold and get warm. When you get hypothermic you lose the ability to care for yourself you need help.
The appearance and behavior of water can change dramatically. At its worst conditions on water are not survivable.
There is a sailboat race called Sydney to Hobart. It runs between Sydney, Australia and Hobart, Tasmania. One year it happened to be run in "perfect storm" conditions. Large sailboat racing yachts were flipped upside down and dismasted. Several died, including some who suffered lethal injuries from being bounced around inside the boat.
Inland currents can get dangerous. There are places in British Columbia where strong currents can cause whirlpools that are strong enough to sink 90 ft long boats. I have personally been on board a 26 ft sailboat that encountered tidal rips. Six foot tall standing waves out of nowhere
The US Pacific hNorthwest is cold water territory. Even in the hottest summer days the salt water temperature is typically in the low 50's Fahrenheit. I grew up in the east coast which is noted for warm surf beaches in the summer. I tried to wade into a local beach in Seattle, I only got in to my knees and my calves started to turn numb. This was on a sunny summer day with the temperature in the 90's.
Water has 24 times the heat sapping ability compared to air. One degree difference in water is equivalent to 24 degrees difference in air,. Exposure to cold water can result in hypothermia and it can come on suddenly. You become incoherent and uncoordinated. You need to get out of the cold and get warm. When you get hypothermic you lose the ability to care for yourself you need help.
threesixty
Member
I’d second the advice from DRWyoming.
I paddle in northern Canada in everything from warm summer water to ice-skimmed winter ponds.
Taking a kayaking course is a great starter to get you familiar with the boats, then practice tipping and reentry with your own boat, as inflatables have different things that work than hard-shell kayaks.
Make sure the boat is rated for the water you’re on — most manufacturers will tell you the boat’s rating.
Be aware of water temperature and seek education on appropriate practice and clothing for any cool to cold water.
A fishing PFD is useful for photography, as they have pockets for teleconverters and your locator beacon.
(I use an NRS Chinook fishing life jacket and an Ocean Signal PLB locator beacon.)
An open cockpit kayak allows you to carry a submersible backpack for your rig that you can seal up when mounting and dismounting the kayak.
I use a CORSurf 40L paddleboaring pack for medium size telephotos (180-600mm) and a 50L MEC Sculley river runner for the big 400 2.8 TC.
Ditto Wyoming’s comments on inflatables — also look at the height of the seat. Some boats sit you high, so shooting angle is not ideal.
My current boat is an Airvolution2 drop-stitched rigid inflatable, open cockpit kayak.
It’s rated for Class II water, and I keep it in those conditions.
It’s stable enough to stand in, though I don’t do that with my rig
, and it handles chop up to 2’ with grace and handles rough log snags and rocks with ease.
I’m planning on adding a Swift Pack Boat (a carbon-fiber open cockpit boat that looks like a canoe but has a kayak seat and uses a kayak paddle). Similar to the Hornbeck boats.
Much less stable, than the Airvolution, so I’ll keep it to tamer water. But much more convenient than the inflatable.
Cheers and good luck!
I paddle in northern Canada in everything from warm summer water to ice-skimmed winter ponds.
Taking a kayaking course is a great starter to get you familiar with the boats, then practice tipping and reentry with your own boat, as inflatables have different things that work than hard-shell kayaks.
Make sure the boat is rated for the water you’re on — most manufacturers will tell you the boat’s rating.
Be aware of water temperature and seek education on appropriate practice and clothing for any cool to cold water.
A fishing PFD is useful for photography, as they have pockets for teleconverters and your locator beacon.
(I use an NRS Chinook fishing life jacket and an Ocean Signal PLB locator beacon.)
An open cockpit kayak allows you to carry a submersible backpack for your rig that you can seal up when mounting and dismounting the kayak.
I use a CORSurf 40L paddleboaring pack for medium size telephotos (180-600mm) and a 50L MEC Sculley river runner for the big 400 2.8 TC.
Ditto Wyoming’s comments on inflatables — also look at the height of the seat. Some boats sit you high, so shooting angle is not ideal.
My current boat is an Airvolution2 drop-stitched rigid inflatable, open cockpit kayak.
It’s rated for Class II water, and I keep it in those conditions.
It’s stable enough to stand in, though I don’t do that with my rig
, and it handles chop up to 2’ with grace and handles rough log snags and rocks with ease.I’m planning on adding a Swift Pack Boat (a carbon-fiber open cockpit boat that looks like a canoe but has a kayak seat and uses a kayak paddle). Similar to the Hornbeck boats.
Much less stable, than the Airvolution, so I’ll keep it to tamer water. But much more convenient than the inflatable.
Cheers and good luck!
Turtlecat, just throwing my two cents in, as I didn’t take time to read every response. I’ve owned an inflatable (Zodiac), aluminum boats, sailboats, open water bosts, canoes, and kayaks. I currently own a Native Watercraft 13’ Slayer Propel fishing kayak that I shoot from often. You would be surprised by the area you can cover and how wildlife tend to ignore you.
If you get a kayak, check into insurance (inland marine policy) for your gear. I keep everything in dry bags secured to some point on the kayak. I’ve also brought my tripod and tied it off on both sides. If the boat flips, the camera and lenses stay dry and can’t sink. So far, knock on wood, I’ve never had any issues.
You mentioned not having racks to carry a canoe or kayak. While I think racks are better, you don’t necessarily need them. They make foam pads the separate the kayak from the car top. The simply tie a rope on front and back to your desired anchor points. If you’re concerned with stability, you can easily make some outriggers.
The kayak/canoe will allow you to go places other boats just can’t make it into. The Zodiac is very nice too, if you don’t mind the putting together/taking apart. But you’ll need either a good trolling motor or gas motor, as they’re not as easy to row as one would think.
Other boats will require a trailer and the larger the boat, the larger the motor, which’s means less to spend on your gear.
I guess it will mostly depend on where you plan to go and what you’re comfortable with. Good luck!
If you get a kayak, check into insurance (inland marine policy) for your gear. I keep everything in dry bags secured to some point on the kayak. I’ve also brought my tripod and tied it off on both sides. If the boat flips, the camera and lenses stay dry and can’t sink. So far, knock on wood, I’ve never had any issues.
You mentioned not having racks to carry a canoe or kayak. While I think racks are better, you don’t necessarily need them. They make foam pads the separate the kayak from the car top. The simply tie a rope on front and back to your desired anchor points. If you’re concerned with stability, you can easily make some outriggers.
The kayak/canoe will allow you to go places other boats just can’t make it into. The Zodiac is very nice too, if you don’t mind the putting together/taking apart. But you’ll need either a good trolling motor or gas motor, as they’re not as easy to row as one would think.
Other boats will require a trailer and the larger the boat, the larger the motor, which’s means less to spend on your gear.
I guess it will mostly depend on where you plan to go and what you’re comfortable with. Good luck!
threesixty
Member
These look really interesting — Swift Canoe in Canada make similar products, They’re beautiful to paddle, but more expensive ($5k for the carbon-fusion model.)
If I’m ever travelling through New York, I’d be tempted to stop and sling one of the 14 footers on top of my car.
I love my rigid inflatable, but I often just want something light enough that I can easily throw it on and off the car and not have to inflate.