What's Your Favorite Wildlife Photography "Gear Hack"?

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Steve

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Over time, we all learn clever little tricks and techniques that was use in the field and I thought it would be fun to have a thread where we shared those. (Also, I may use this info for an upcoming video :) )

I'll start by tossing out a couple.

1. On trick I use when photographing in windy conditions is to take off the lens hood. When shooting long glass, the wind often shakes the entire rig and a hood dramatically increases the "sail" area. So, when it's windy, I often take the hood off and enjoy more stability. Note that I only do this is the front element isn't in any danger and I'm not facing into the sun :)

2. Another handy trick is using a Wimberley M-8 adaptor on a gimbal head when you're trying to mount a rig to it that doesn't have a lens foot. ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod..._omi5zITjNz9QPeKshpezS_hX3SaGRRBoCEfAQAvD_BwE _

3. Finally, one last trick to get the ball rolling. Another helpful tip is to keep a "cleaning" toothbrush with you for getting sand / dirt out of hard-to-reach places in your lens (like the switches and feet) or camera (like all the knocks and crevices).

So, that's the idea. What kind of field "hacks" do you use that others may not have thought about?
 
Using a quick release clamp (lever-style) for different lenses and having to switch between them I found that unless you use the same brand of foot / arca-swiss plates, there will be variances in the width of the plate / angle of the groove. This means that one lens foot is on too tight and I cannot close the clamp, while another one may be just a little too loose.

As a "field hack" I cut off a piece of an allen key to make it smaller and used some string and some heat-shrink tubing to make sure I always have a small unobtrusive allen key hanging off of the side of the clamp that I can use to tighten or loosen it half a turn without having to dive into my bag each time.
 
This "hack" relates to my more serendipitous shooting pattern in super cold and often snowy or muddy/wet conditions.
I've gone to a three lens and three body kit that can fit in one camera bag. Having suffered wet sensors, wet rear elements, sandy components, and internal condensation in the past, I will no longer change lenses in the field. Nikon's system of PF and Z-mount gear has made it possible to carry a comprehensive kit in a single pack.
As for a "field hack," I always carry a camouflage poncho that is big enough to act as a "blind," and water resistant enough to allow me to sit or lie prone in wet or muddy conditions.

bruce
 
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Using a quick release clamp (lever-style) for different lenses and having to switch between them I found that unless you use the same brand of foot / arca-swiss plates, there will be variances in the width of the plate / angle of the groove. This means that one lens foot is on too tight and I cannot close the clamp, while another one may be just a little too loose.

As a "field hack" I cut off a piece of an allen key to make it smaller and used some string and some heat-shrink tubing to make sure I always have a small unobtrusive allen key hanging off of the side of the clamp that I can use to tighten or loosen it half a turn without having to dive into my bag each time.
I keep one of these on every bag in place of your second idea. Obviously not as DYI as yours.
 
Here's a few:

- When staying in hotels/motels I pick up the small disposable shower caps and always keep one in my camera bag. In wet nasty conditions I'll throw one over the camera body to keep things drier. I also put one over the camera body when shooting extended star trail sequences where I might leave the camera out all night and don't want to come back to find it covered in dew or rained on in the night.

- Similarly I always carry a piece of coated nylon I picked up years ago at a fabric store. I basically use it as a camera and long lens poncho when rain comes up suddenly. If I know I'll be shooting in really nasty conditions I carry a full lens and camera cover but storms come in fast so I like having something in my gear bag at all times and the cloth takes up almost no room.

- Like Darrel above I have strips of gaffer's tape precut and taped to the inside cover of my camera bag. It's very handy for taping the focus ring when shooting astro but I've found other uses when out in the field like taping a remote release to a tripod leg to keep it from swinging around when shooting astro photos and star trails.

- In the buggy months I always have some bug spray but that stuff can wreak havoc with plastics so I always keep some hand wipes and always clean my hands after touching bug spray and before touching camera gear.

- I've got an old frying pan that the non stick coating wore off on that I drilled a hole in so I can use a 3/8" machine screw to secure a ball or gimbal head. It makes a great sliding ground pod for very low level shooting.
 

DRwyoming -​

Excuse the question, but what type of hand wipes do you use?

The reason I ask: I have found that over time the residue from typical Clorox hand wipes softens both natural and artificial rubber/rubber-like materials used in vehicle interiors. Maybe it's in conjunction with the Texas heat?? - but I'm not sure. Anyway, I now keep a damp face-cloth in the vehicle when we travel for a follow-up wipe after using the hand wipes.
 

DRwyoming -​

Excuse the question, but what type of hand wipes do you use?

The reason I ask: I have found that over time the residue from typical Clorox hand wipes softens both natural and artificial rubber/rubber-like materials used in vehicle interiors. Maybe it's in conjunction with the Texas heat?? - but I'm not sure. Anyway, I now keep a damp face-cloth in the vehicle when we travel for a follow-up wipe after using the hand wipes.
I use the travel packs of Wet Ones: https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...EwjSvae0pav3AhWjIzQIHfgiBusQ0Qx6BAgCEAE&dct=1

I haven't had issues with residue on my gear but a wipe down with a damp cloth makes a lot of sense.
 
Great idea for a thread.

1) For a secure, dry, unobtrusive long lens bag I use a 20 liter dry bag lined with closed cell foam from a camp sleeping pad. Two disks of the foam form the bottom of the bag. This bag is big enough for a 500mm f4 w/D850 attached. There are no "steal me" labels on the bag and I've always gotten away with claiming it as my "second personal item" in addition to my camera bag for carry aboard on US airlines.

2) I made a seat out of 3/4in plywood and closed cell foam to fit on a five gallon bucket. I use it as a seat and carry a roll of burlap material for impromptu hide, my lunch, bottle of water, etc. in the bucket. The large surface area of the bottom of the bucket works well for sitting on soft mud etc. I painted the bucket camo colors.

3) Closed cell foam tubing made for pipe insulation cost next to nothing and can be used for a number of things. When using a tripod aboard a boat use zip ties to attach foam to the bottom of the tripod legs to dampen vibration.

4) Similar to the foam insulation tubing but larger is closed cell foam swimming "noodles" for kids. Available in the toy section in most department stores. It makes for a light weight alternative to a bean bag for resting a long lens across the gunwale of a boat, out car windows, etc.

5) Zip ties. Don't leave home without them.
 

DRwyoming -​

Excuse the question, but what type of hand wipes do you use?

The reason I ask: I have found that over time the residue from typical Clorox hand wipes softens both natural and artificial rubber/rubber-like materials used in vehicle interiors. Maybe it's in conjunction with the Texas heat?? - but I'm not sure. Anyway, I now keep a damp face-cloth in the vehicle when we travel for a follow-up wipe after using the hand wipes.
Chlorine attacks vinyl/PVC products.
 

NorthernFocus -​

Thanks and I'm aware of that. However, vinyl/PVC were not involved and there is no chlorine or derivative in the wipes we used so I think it was the residual alcohol (or derivative) in the active ingredient. Sorry I waylaid the thread topic.
 
Here are my Gear Hack suggestions:
1. I customize my camera exposure controls (shutter speed, aperture, ISO and exposure compensation) so that in Nikon cameras, adjustment of each made by turning Command or Subcommand dials. I customize each so that turning the dial towards the right will brighten exposure and turning to left will darken it. To remember, just think of the histogram in the camera LCD with everything to the right brighter and to the left darker. So for example, if I'm shooting in Manual mode and I want to brighten the exposure, I know which way to turn ISO, aperture or shutter speed to do that.
2. Fill beanbag with buckwheat hulls. They are extremely light weight making it easy to travel with a full bag and making it very easy in the safari vehicle to lift up the bag when needed. Works just as well if not better than a bag filled with heavy beans or rice.
3. Always carry a fairly thick rubber band. A great help in removing a stuck filter by just wrapping the rubber band around the filter for traction.
4. Bugshirt. When I travel to an area with possible nasty insects (and I'm a magnet for mosquitoes) I always pack my bug shirt. Comes from a company called bugshirt.com. Extremely light weight and folds up into pocket for packing. But when on, it has a hood that can be zipped so no bug can get in and yet you can still easily photograph through the see through mesh of the hood. Tightens around waist and wrists to keep bugs out. Comfortable even in very hot weather. Now you only have to worry about exposed hands (get light weight bug gloves) or legs if you wear shorts. I prefer this to always covering myself with DEET and risk damaging cameras if DEET gets on them.
 
I put gaffers tape over the switches on a couple of my lenses when the switches seem to be easily bumped. The 3 lenses I own that have this problem: 1) Nikkor Micro 105mm F2.8vr, 2) Sigma 150-600C, 3) Sigma 100-400.
 
A NEVER lose viewfinder cover! For some Nikon DSLR series.
I took a 12 ga. shotgun "wad" and cut the shot cup petals off, then sand the bottom cup circumference for snug fit in a Hoodman eyecup mounted to Nikon D-750. I attached a piece of braided fishing line through the wad and the left camera eye. Weighs nothing, impervious to heat and weather and ALWAYS available to plug the back of viewfinder for tripod landscape use.
 
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