What's Your Favorite Wildlife Photography "Gear Hack"?

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Over time, we all learn clever little tricks and techniques that was use in the field and I thought it would be fun to have a thread where we shared those. (Also, I may use this info for an upcoming video :) )

I'll start by tossing out a couple.

1. On trick I use when photographing in windy conditions is to take off the lens hood. When shooting long glass, the wind often shakes the entire rig and a hood dramatically increases the "sail" area. So, when it's windy, I often take the hood off and enjoy more stability. Note that I only do this is the front element isn't in any danger and I'm not facing into the sun :)

2. Another handy trick is using a Wimberley M-8 adaptor on a gimbal head when you're trying to mount a rig to it that doesn't have a lens foot. ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/303253-REG/Wimberley_M_8_Module_8_M_8_Perpendicular.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI:514&gclid=CjwKCAjwx46TBhBhEiwArA_DjM0Ubnaw3DjH_QHFsnOXFd_omi5zITjNz9QPeKshpezS_hX3SaGRRBoCEfAQAvD_BwE _

3. Finally, one last trick to get the ball rolling. Another helpful tip is to keep a "cleaning" toothbrush with you for getting sand / dirt out of hard-to-reach places in your lens (like the switches and feet) or camera (like all the knocks and crevices).

So, that's the idea. What kind of field "hacks" do you use that others may not have thought about?
I learned the one about lens hoods and the wind when I was handheld shooting at a GBH rookery and the wind was so strong left to right that I could not stay on target at all until I took off the hood. Even then it was an effort but much easier.
 
I learned the one about lens hoods and the wind when I was handheld shooting at a GBH rookery and the wind was so strong left to right that I could not stay on target at all until I took off the hood. Even then it was an effort but much easier.
It's really surprising how much he wind can move those big lenses, even when you're hand-holding.
 
Similar to the foam insulation tubing but larger is closed cell foam swimming "noodles" for kids. Available in the toy section in most department stores. It makes for a light weight alternative to a bean bag for resting a long lens across the gunwale of a boat, out car windows, etc.
I do the same and found it excellent.
Additionally my tips:
I wrap the plastic hoods (outside) with a matt black isolation band/tape to protect the hoods (those with a glue but not much glue, just a normal isolation band for electric wires, a bit elastic). Even when the hood is broken the tape keeps it "together". I do tape it before it gets broken, of course. During the trips you cannot exchange the hood easily.
I put small lenses into the socks during transportation. :D Some socks can provide a good protection. It brings me to a lot of jokes but well... ;-)
I have a small espresso machine "Handpresso" with me. you can make a real espresso with it, it tests very good. Google for "Handpresso", it takes ESSO tabs. I take the boiled water in the thermo-bottle for coffee or I can boil it in the car.
 
I do the same and found it excellent.
Additionally my tips:
I wrap the plastic hoods (outside) with a matt black isolation band/tape to protect the hoods (those with a glue but not much glue, just a normal isolation band for electric wires, a bit elastic). Even when the hood is broken the tape keeps it "together". I do tape it before it gets broken, of course. During the trips you cannot exchange the hood easily.
I put small lenses into the socks during transportation. :D Some socks can provide a good protection. It brings me to a lot of jokes but well... ;-)
I have a small espresso machine "Handpresso" with me. you can make a real espresso with it, it tests very good. Google for "Handpresso", it takes ESSO tabs. I take the boiled water in the thermo-bottle for coffee or I can boil it in the car.
Socks work great. I have a Pelican case with dividers that protect the cameras and lenses but socks, fluffy ones, work great for my FTZ adapters and teleconverters. I also use socks for lenses I end up carrying in my back pack - large or small. Also use 3” pipe insulation as cushions for car windows instead of bulky bean bags.
 
To protect medium to larger lenses and camera bodies, I sometimes use a really thick knitted beanie hat like this:
1651006885594.png


About $5-6 at Walmart. I take elastic tape and weave it in and out around the opening, leaving the opening just large enough to stretch around the lens or camera body. Works like a charm!

I use a RRS TVC24 tall tripod, even though I am only 5'3". To quickly extend each leg to just the right height, I use a Sharpie with metallic silver ink to mark each leg.

I buy Zeiss pre-moistened lens wipes by the box, then keep a zip lock bag of them in the car, the truck, the camera bag, my purse......you get the idea. Great for cleaning sun glasses, regular glasses, and lenses!
 
I don't think you can really call it a hack but I have a 4 battery, battery holding pouch with belt loops so I never have to worry about running out of charged batteries (also have power inverter in my car so I can charge on the road if necessary), And because of one of your videos I also have another pouch that fits on my belt in which I can carry my TC's and easily take them off or put them on in the field -- though truth be told these days the 1.4 is always on,
 
Not sure if this is considered a hack but I will just put it out.

This concern the transfer speed of your pictures if you are transferring directing from the camera via usb c cable to a computer. The usb cable supplied from Nikon with z9 is short however it does support speed up to 10 gbs. If you are using other usb c cable, make sure they support this speed to enjoy the faster transfer rate. Usual cable in the market might sport a usb2.0 transfer rate of 480mbps even if they are rated pd compatible.
 
Perhaps not gear but essential imo for traveling w gear

Global entry for international travel / US customs. includes TSA prechek

Atleast gold status on your airline of choice

Samsonite luggage cart to roll backpack through airport
 
I put one or more small lenses cases on a simple nylon belt that goes around my waist to hold TCs I want to have with me (F mount or Z mount, depending on the lens or lenses I plan to use). Makes them easier to take on or off In the field.

I also find a photo vest can be helpful — gives me lots of pockets for stuff that are easier to access than my photo backpack and may mean I can leave the photo backpack in the car or at home.
 
Many excellent tips shared here - thank you :)
I keep an eye out for the classic leather coated lens cases from yore. Some of the oldest are collectible but most are priced very reasonably (eg Kenko, Pentax, Minolta etc). Some models have zip-around lids, and not the clipping stud lid.
Being much more compact, these cases are ideal to travel and carry the smaller primes and teleconverters and fit snugly in the gaps in modern padded packs next to big lens etc
nikoncases-japan.jpg
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KNEE PADS
Yes, kneepads. I used to carry the simple/cheap closed cell foam variety. But discovered the hard way that they don't work well on gravel. Wore them out the first day of a week long brown bear shoot on a salmon stream. Now use the hard shell type. Though the cheapos cost and weigh next to nothing so can ride in the pack all the time just in case. But if actually planning to use them the hard type are much better.
 
A simple tip for winter photography expedition is to always bring a thermal bottle for a cup of Thea or coffe.
when the weather is very cold, it is very appreciated a cup of very hot Thea.
There is a special version of the thermal bottle by Thermos brand made especially to be very light but also to keep hot the liquids for a full day or more.
https://thermos.eu/en/product-ranges/ranges/mountain#Content4085

Another tip is to check as a minimum two weather forecast and makes the photograph bags accordingly, keeping in mind to keep the weight as low as possible.

a mountain backpack is ideal for traveling along long and inaccessible paths with photographic equipment. Compared to a photographic backpack, the hiking backpack is generally lighter, more comfortable and allows the back to breathe better.
Mine backpack , has empty weight of about 1kg but it is a 40 liters and I can load up to 10/11 kg without any problems.
 
Using football wide receiver gloves when handling heavy lens and camera near water, or in places where I really don't want to drop them. They are made of a super sticky rubber that really grips the gear. About $20 on Amazon.
 
Here are a few more suggestions:
1. Rubber lens hood by B+W. I use these when photographing in aquarium or otherwise need to photograph through glass. Hood up against the glass eliminates reflections.
2. "Splinter Out" A pack of 10 individually wrapped sharp pointed splinter removers (cost $5 the pack). Invaluable when you get a splinter on your travels. I also carry a very high quality fine point tweezer to use for splinters.
3. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) mini screwdriver set. Product from Japan such as our cameras and lenses have tiny screws that look like Phillips screws, but they are not. JIS screws have differing dimension and shape - subtle but if you use regular mini screwdriver set on them you run risk of damaging screw and not being able to tighten as well. There are some very inexpensive JIS screwdriver sets on Amazon and these are the only screwdrivers I use on my equipment.
 
My lame contribution:

1) I hear allot about people with loose dovetail style mounting plates getting loose...I use one drop of BLUE loctite on the threads of the mounting plates and have never had one come loose. Allen wrench will break the bond so you can clean threads and repeat.

2) Speaking of mounting plates....Really Right Stuff has replacement "feet" for lenses with a tripod foot. Best thing is their feet are longer than OEM, so you have more flexibility getting a good balance point on your gymbal mount. Plus if you hand carry your lense/camera by the lens foot like I do, the 'handle" is bigger.

3) Speaking of RR Stuff....most all their plates/feet have a built in connector to their quick release jack. They offer a canvas type webbed shoulder strap with a button engaged quick release mechanism. This is great for carrying a second camera or footed lens, or even to take the weight off a huge prime while carrying the tripod separately.

4) RRStuff 'spikes'. The tripods/monopods I tend to purchase are Gitzo, and their stock feet are these huge flat feet....useful in studio or hard and flat surfaces, not uneven terrain of sand/rocks/mud. I typically ordered replacement feet from them that are more narrow with a pointed foot. Until I found these spikes....they drive into sand/mud/soft_ground, but also work in hard and rocky ground...love them.\

tripod-feet

5) Lenscoat lens covers....they make lens covers for many brands. In my case my 600mm F4 won't fit in my camera bag with the lens hood....so the front element was somewhat exposed. Their lens covers have a hard plastic disc sown into the spongy covering that easily fits over the front element, then adds protection to the front element when not using the OEM hood/cover that is larger in diameter.
 
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Unfortunately wildlife is like the stock market. Past performance is no guarantee of future results.

Quite true, and while I've never had a problem two of those bears made me uneasy. One was a yearling (probably a male) that followed me for quite a way -- those males tend to be the ones (at least in black bears) that very rarely prey on humans. The second was a lone adult I inadvertently got too close to -- didn't know it was there and apparently it hadn't become aware of me either. As I said that yet another possible use for the OC spray I carry.

BUT, most people seem to be terrified of black bears even though the species' threat to humans is too low to even be considered a threat. I have no doubt that far more people suffer fatal falls in the woods or heart attacks/strokes than are injured by black bears, much less killed.
 
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