Which Macro Lens?

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MikeA

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I was thinking of also trying macro photography and am considering a new lens for my new D500. Would somebody be able to give me some advice - I have no idea what might be best for an ambitious amateur?

Thank you,

Mike
 
I'd recommend something in the 100mm focal length range or longer. There's some good deals on 40mm (DX only but would work with your D500) and 60mm macro lenses from Nikon but the working distance (distance from front of lens to subject at 1:1 magnification) is very short on those lenses. That makes them all but useless for live macro subjects like insects but even makes static macro shots tough from a lighting standpoint as the lens is so close it can cast shadows from natural light or even from flash lighting right onto your subject.

The holy grail for wildlife macro shooters is something in the 200mm range as you get very good working distance and the longer focal length can make background control a bit easier than wider focal length lenses. If you don't need AF-S (e.g. you won't do automated focus stacking in supporting cameras like the D850 or Z series cameras) and you can find one the Nikkor 200mm AF-D micro lens is an amazing piece of glass but it's not cheap and as implied isn't a modern AF-S lens.

There are some very good third party macro lenses to fit Nikon bodies like the 150mm HSM macro lens by Tamron.

Some I'd recommend for nature macro work:
- Nikon 105mm AF-S Micro (takes a TC-14 II or TC-14 III really well to give you an effective 147mm macro lens)
- Older Nikon 105mm Micro (non AF-S but a great lens)
- Tamron 150mm HSM macro
- Nikon 200mm f/4 micro lens (pricey and a bit dated but a superb lens for live macro work)

There are many others I haven't had the opportunity to shoot with but look for something at least 90mm long with 200mm or thereabouts being ideal for live macro work.
 
The Tokina 100mm F2.8 Macro is a nice macro lens that can be bought new at a really reasonable price. Optionally, if you watch the for sale sections on various forums, the latest Nikon 105mm F2.8 lenses often pop up for good prices. I have both. Wifey bought me the Tokina as a gift & I picked up the Nikon on FM for a good price. Both are great for my purposes, but I'm no Macro expert. I've used the Nikon more, but that's because it plays very will with my Z bodies. I haven't done much macro with my D500.
 
Thank you - I might add I think insects and Co. would interest me most. Would that mean 200mm would be better? What is the difference between a normal 200 mm glass and a macro?

Best Mike
 
What is the difference between a normal 200 mm glass and a macro?
The close focus distance.

With a normal 200mm lens you might be able to focus as close as 4.5 feet or so which would allow you to get a macro magnification of about 0.12X meaning an object roughly 8 times the size of your camera's sensor would fill that sensor at the close focus distance. So you'd be able to get frame filling images of subjects roughly 8 times the size of your camera's sensor assuming you can get that close to them.

With a true macro lens (which Nikon calls Micro lenses) the close focusing distance is much shorter (e.g. around 20 inches for the 200mm f/4 D Micro lens) which will give you 1:1 magnification. IOW, a subject the same size as your camera's sensor will fill the sensor at the closest focusing distance.

The 105mm class macro (micro) lenses aren't bad for live macro work but if you can find something in the 150mm to 200mm range it's a better choice if skittish live subjects are your main photographic goal. Remember the 105mm AF-S micro lens takes a 1.4x teleconverter well getting you pretty close to 150mm which is very workable for a lot of living macro subjects.

There are also some good ways to achieve macro level photography with lenses you may already own which include extension tubes and close up diopters (aka close up filters). These can be a good and cost effective way to explore macro photography and may help you decide if you want to invest in a full fledged macro lens. Basically in a nutshell:

- An extension tube is just a hollow metal tube with the right lens mounts and electrical contacts to support your brand of camera/lens. It looks a bit like a teleconverter but there's no glass lens elements in it, it's just a hollow tube. You place this between your camera body and lens and it allows the lens to focus much closer than normal so you can get closer to your subjects and achieve greater magnification. These work best with fixed focal length lenses as zooming and focusing are impacted by the amount of extension tube you add so it can get confusing to use these with zoom lenses unless you resist the temptation to zoom and use the zoom like a fixed lens (e.g. set a 70-200mm zoom at 200mm and leave it there).

- A close up diopter is a lens built into a filter holder that you screw onto the front of your existing lens just like you would a filter. It's basically like a pair of high strength reading glasses for your lens and allows it to focus very close. These can work well with fixed or zoom lenses allowing them to focus very close and give you macro magnification levels when they're mounted to the lens. If you go this route I'd suggest a high quality Nikon 5T or 6T or Canon 500D diopter sized to fit the lens you'll use it with (I've always liked using diopters with either 70-200mm or 70-300mm lenses for best results with nature macro subjects).

- The downside of either of those approaches is that when the tube or the close up diopter is mounted you lose the ability to focus at far distances so if for instance you're shooting a close up of a nice Butterfly from a foot or so away and then an animal steps out of the bushes say 10 feet or 20 feet away you won't be able to point your camera at the animal and focus, you'll have to remove the close up tube or diopter to achieve far focus.

So that's it in a nutshell. Macro photography requires some way to get the lens to focus at close distances. That can be done with extension tubes, a close up diopter or a dedicated macro lens. The dedicated macro lens is the most versatile for a wide range of shooting conditions but the other approaches can work very well and be very good optically if you start with a decent quality lens but you lose the ability to rapidly switch from close focus to focusing farther away.

[edit] While the ability to close focus is the primary distinguishing feature of a macro lens, good macro lenses are also some of the best corrected lenses out there for things like distortion, field curvature and various optical aberrations. That's one of the big reasons they cost so much, they're generally really good lenses.
 
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Thank you VERY much for this clear explanation. Now I understand. Food for thought which lens I should choose, I think I would rather invest In a new glass instead of adapting my normal lenses.

best,

Mike
 
Thank you VERY much for this clear explanation. Now I understand. Food for thought which lens I should choose, I think I would rather invest In a new glass instead of adapting my normal lenses.

best,

Mike
Do note that the 200mm Micro-Nikkor is an $1800 USD lens, which puts it at or near the top of the heap in price for a macro lens. And you may want/need a tripod and rails if you are really trying to fully take advantage of it at 1:1. @DRwyoming had some good suggestions in his post above if you first want to get a flavor of macro and close-up work. I have the 60mm and 105mm Micro-Nikkors and find them both to be wonderful lenses. The 60 does a good job at portraits on a DX body as well.

Good luck,

--Ken
 
Would that be a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105 mm 1:2,8G IF-ED? The reviews are very positive and the price seems resonable?
 
Do note that the 200mm Micro-Nikkor is an $1800 USD lens, which puts it at or near the top of the heap in price for a macro lens. And you may want/need a tripod and rails if you are really trying to fully take advantage of it at 1:1. @DRwyoming had some good suggestions in his post above if you first want to get a flavor of macro and close-up work. I have the 60mm and 105mm Micro-Nikkors and find them both to be wonderful lenses. The 60 does a good job at portraits on a DX body as well.

Good luck,

--Ken
Yes, that is one of the 105mm macros that I have. I also have the D version, which for the money is also a great lens. As was pointed out, the 105VR can also me used with some TC's and that makes for an interesting combination. Note that the 105VR is a fat and somewhat slow to focus lens. It is an older design as I remember buying mine new in 2006. They used to be made in Japan, but are now made in one of Nikon's offshore factories. I have not heard of any differences in quality, so that is probably a moot fact.

As was touched on above, there is a bit of a difference between working close up and doing 1:1 or 1:2 macro. The 105 has greater working distance which is nice, but the 60 is also nice for just doing casual close up photos. I often use that on a DX body when I am out and about and want a more detailed sloe up shot of something. It is also an older design dating to the early 2000's, but it is quite a sharp, flat field lens.

If possible, I would rent the 105 to give it a spin or see if you can buy with the ability to return if you are not happy.

--Ken
 
Some really good points in the above posts. One thing that isn't mentioned is that at magnifications between about 1:10 and 1:1 (life size), all macro lenses require exposure increases because the amount of light hitting the sensor decreases (wow--I almost wrote "film plane" instead of "sensor"). It isn't the fault of the lens, it's physics. With older, non-internal focusing lenses (e.g., the Nikon 60 mm or 105 mm f/2.8D lens), an f/2.8 lens has an effective aperture of f/5.6 at 1:1 magnification. It doesn't matter if 1:1 is achieved using the lens' focusing mechanism or extension tubes. The newer internal-focusing Nikon 105 f/2.8G lens has an effective aperture of f/4.8 at 1:1.

I had the 105D lens which is great lens, relatively small, but slow to focus because it is a screw-driven lens powered by the motor in the camera body. Replaced it with the 105G VR which focuses much faster, but is heavier than the earlier D-version lens. I also have a 55 mm f/3.5 that still is an excellent lens (my dad bought it in ~1965 and I had it AI'd), so don't be afraid of buying a used Nikkor in good condition.

I taught a close-up/macro photography course a while ago and assembled a list of references you might find useful:

Web Sites:
•Robert OToole, Close-Up Photography https://www.closeuphotography.com/
•Gale Spring, Photomacrography Using Bellows and Extensions https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-symantec-ext_onb&hsimp=yhs-ext_onb&hspart=symantec&p=photography+bellows+video#id=10&vid=97f70b564ac4b337660797fea16f9ce7&action=click
•Beginner's Guide to Close-up & Macro Photography https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/close-up-macro-photography/p/all
•The Ultimate Guide Macro Photography https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/the-ultimate-guide-macro-photography/
•Macro World forum on the FM site https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/45

Books:

Blaker, A.A., 1976, Field Photography, Beginning and Advanced Techniques: Freeman, 449 p.

Blaker, A.A., 1977, Handbook for Scientific Photography: Freeman, 319 p. [I've had Blaker's books since they were published and they're still excellent references]

Earnest, A., 2019, The New Lighting for Product Photography: The Digital Photographer's Step-by-Step Guide to Sculpting with Light (2nd ed.): Amherst, 128 p.

Gibson, H.L., 1969, Close-up Photography and Photomicrography: Kodak Publication No. N-12.

Harnischmacher, C., 2012, Tabletop Photography: Using Compact Flashes and Low-Cost Tricks to Create Professional-Looking Studio Shots (1st ed.): Rocky Nook, 147 p.

Hunter, F., Biver, S., and Fuqua, P., 2015, Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting (5th ed.): Routledge, 400 p.

Glen
 
Some really good points in the above posts. One thing that isn't mentioned is that at magnifications between about 1:10 and 1:1 (life size), all macro lenses require exposure increases because the amount of light hitting the sensor decreases (wow--I almost wrote "film plane" instead of "sensor"). It isn't the fault of the lens, it's physics. With older, non-internal focusing lenses (e.g., the Nikon 60 mm or 105 mm f/2.8D lens), an f/2.8 lens has an effective aperture of f/5.6 at 1:1 magnification. It doesn't matter if 1:1 is achieved using the lens' focusing mechanism or extension tubes. The newer internal-focusing Nikon 105 f/2.8G lens has an effective aperture of f/4.8 at 1:1.

I had the 105D lens which is great lens, relatively small, but slow to focus because it is a screw-driven lens powered by the motor in the camera body. Replaced it with the 105G VR which focuses much faster, but is heavier than the earlier D-version lens. I also have a 55 mm f/3.5 that still is an excellent lens (my dad bought it in ~1965 and I had it AI'd), so don't be afraid of buying a used Nikkor in good condition.

I taught a close-up/macro photography course a while ago and assembled a list of references you might find useful:

Web Sites:
•Robert OToole, Close-Up Photography https://www.closeuphotography.com/
•Gale Spring, Photomacrography Using Bellows and Extensions https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-symantec-ext_onb&hsimp=yhs-ext_onb&hspart=symantec&p=photography+bellows+video#id=10&vid=97f70b564ac4b337660797fea16f9ce7&action=click
•Beginner's Guide to Close-up & Macro Photography https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/close-up-macro-photography/p/all
•The Ultimate Guide Macro Photography https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/the-ultimate-guide-macro-photography/
•Macro World forum on the FM site https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/45

Books:

Blaker, A.A., 1976, Field Photography, Beginning and Advanced Techniques: Freeman, 449 p.

Blaker, A.A., 1977, Handbook for Scientific Photography: Freeman, 319 p. [I've had Blaker's books since they were published and they're still excellent references]

Earnest, A., 2019, The New Lighting for Product Photography: The Digital Photographer's Step-by-Step Guide to Sculpting with Light (2nd ed.): Amherst, 128 p.

Gibson, H.L., 1969, Close-up Photography and Photomicrography: Kodak Publication No. N-12.

Harnischmacher, C., 2012, Tabletop Photography: Using Compact Flashes and Low-Cost Tricks to Create Professional-Looking Studio Shots (1st ed.): Rocky Nook, 147 p.

Hunter, F., Biver, S., and Fuqua, P., 2015, Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting (5th ed.): Routledge, 400 p.

Glen
Thank you, that is great, a whole new field to start something new - and a lot of interesting insects in the garden!
 
Very good advise above. The 105 f/2.8 micro is a brilliant lens and the new, faster one even better if your pocket is deep enough. I had the 105 micro 3x and sold it every time. Why? because macro is a realy dedicated aspect of photography and to get what really talks to me, I will have to go bellows and microscope "lenses" - sorry, my English goes out the window with some tech terms. I have mentioned elsewhere, my macro work is done 98% with long lenses as it allows you to get to the living models without chasing them off. You need to ask yourself what macro you want to pursue and then get the dedicated appurtenances to assist you, including the right off camera flash system, etc. Just look at @Indrajeet Singh long lens macro work on this site.
if you are not Nikon chained, Cannon makes a 5X manual macro lens that is exceptional good, even for ants! Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo
 
So if I am serious in doing Macro and considering a once in a lifetime investment (I will be 60 next year and you only live once I guess) it should be more like the Nikon 200mm f/4 ED-IF AF Micro-NIKKOR?
 
So if I am serious in doing Macro and considering a once in a lifetime investment (I will be 60 next year and you only live once I guess) it should be more like the Nikon 200mm f/4 ED-IF AF Micro-NIKKOR?
Yes and No...

It is a fantastic lens optically and really great for doing macro work on small live subjects. But it is an older Nikkor lens that does not have an internal focusing motor(i.e. it is not a AF-S lens) so it won't support auto focus on some of the newer Nikon bodies and would have to be used as a manual focus lens on those bodies. On the pro and semi pro Nikon camera bodies that have a focusing motor in the camera and the mechanical focus coupling, the lens will auto focus but not as fast as an AF-S lens and you'll lose full time manual focus override which is a feature of AF-S lenses.

Nikon also introduced a handy feature in some of their higher end cameras called Focus Shift shooting that's very useful for macro photography. It basically lets you very rapidly shoot a series of photos each focused to a slightly different distance into the scene that can then be focused stacked in post processing to achieve very deep depth of field. This feature is very useful for live macro subjects as the entire sequence of focus shifted images can be captured in a few seconds. We've always been able to manually focus shift a lens for focus stacking but it takes longer and live subjects may not stay still for long enough to capture the sequence of focus shifted images. This Nikon feature requires the use of an AF-S lens and as mentioned above the 200mm f/4 D Micro lens is not an AF-S lens so you can't use this automated focus shift feature with this particular lens but can with something like the 105mm AF-S Micro lens.

So from a once in a lifetime macro lens purchase standpoint it's really hard to go wrong with the 200mm Micro D lens from an optics standpoint, it really is a world class macro lens optically. But from a features standpoint it's quite long in the tooth and way overdue for an update to AF-S capability especially since Nikon introduced the automated focus shift capability in their high end cameras (e.g. D850, D6, Z6, Z7). It would be great to see an updated AF-S version of this lens but it's hard to say if that will happen as macro probably isn't a huge market for Nikon and they're under a lot of pressure to deliver other new products like S series lenses to support their mirrorless camera line.

Personally I wouldn't purchase the 200mm f.4 Ed-IF Micro new but I'd consider a used version in good shape if the price was right with the hope that Nikon will eventually update this lens at which time I'd likely upgrade to the new one. In the meantime if you want to purchase a new lens I'd recommend the 105mm AF-S micro lens.
 
I had wedding rings I needed to photograph for a friend so, I rented a Nikon AF-S VR 105 f/2.8 from borrowlens.com
I never attached it to a crop sensor but now I regret not trying it.
I also purchased a small led light box, kinda fun to play with
It was a good experience(the lens not the wedding event). I still have not purchased a macro lensyet but it’s on my list of wants
 
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Ok, all clear thank you very much - I would also really like to try focus stacking with my new D500, that is an argument for sure. I guess that tips the scale for the 105 AF-S VR.
 
I would also really like to try focus stacking with my new D500, that is an argument for sure.
Just for the record, the D500 does not at this time support the Focus Shift shooting option. It's possible Nikon could release a firmware update that supports this feature but at this time it does not have this option. So if you'll always use a D500 the Focus Shift shooting option isn't relevant but from a 'once in a lifetime investment' standpoint if I spent nearly $2K on the 200mm micro lens I'd want an AF-S lens for the normal advantages AF-S brings as well as support for Focus Shift shooting on compatible bodies.
 
Oh, ok, as always there is no best best lens for everything and no best camera body that can do everything anybody wants. I will now stick with the 105 nevertheless. The D500 and 105 AF-S VR combo will for sure give me a lot of fun and I can also always consider a TC if I need longer reach if I understood correctly
 
This is a such super site for improving in photography and getting great advice. Thank you for all the help!!! I just ordered the 105 :oops: and now I just can’t wait 😄
 
Books:

Blaker, A.A., 1976, Field Photography, Beginning and Advanced Techniques: Freeman, 449 p.

Blaker, A.A., 1977, Handbook for Scientific Photography: Freeman, 319 p. [I've had Blaker's books since they were published and they're still excellent references]

Earnest, A., 2019, The New Lighting for Product Photography: The Digital Photographer's Step-by-Step Guide to Sculpting with Light (2nd ed.): Amherst, 128 p.

Gibson, H.L., 1969, Close-up Photography and Photomicrography: Kodak Publication No. N-12.

Harnischmacher, C., 2012, Tabletop Photography: Using Compact Flashes and Low-Cost Tricks to Create Professional-Looking Studio Shots (1st ed.): Rocky Nook, 147 p.

Hunter, F., Biver, S., and Fuqua, P., 2015, Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting (5th ed.): Routledge, 400 p.

Glen

Blaker's books were excellent for their time, but they are nearly a half century old and are seriously outdated. Some of principles and techniques can still be used, but the tools have changed markedly since then. I had both of the Blaker books but discarded them to make room on my bookshelf. Here are some more recent books which I still use:

  1. John Shaw, 1987. Closeups in Nature: the photographers guide to techniques in the field. 144 p. Still in the Kodachrome era and seriously outdated with regard to equipment, but contains beautiful images in color and is a good source for photographic inspiration
  2. John and Barbara Gerlach, 2015. Closeup Photography in Nature. 200 p.
  3. Julian Cremona, 2014. Extreme Close-Up Photography and Focus Stacking. 176 p.
Bill
 
Blaker's books were excellent for their time, but they are nearly a half century old and are seriously outdated. Some of principles and techniques can still be used, but the tools have changed markedly since then. I had both of the Blaker books but discarded them to make room on my bookshelf. Here are some more recent books which I still use:

  1. John Shaw, 1987. Closeups in Nature: the photographers guide to techniques in the field. 144 p. Still in the Kodachrome era and seriously outdated with regard to equipment, but contains beautiful images in color and is a good source for photographic inspiration
  2. John and Barbara Gerlach, 2015. Closeup Photography in Nature. 200 p.
  3. Julian Cremona, 2014. Extreme Close-Up Photography and Focus Stacking. 176 p.
Bill
Just got nr. 2 as a Kindle book (y)
 
I also suggest you check out the IRIX 150mm f2.8 macro lens. It is manual focus, not AF. Its price is much less than a new AF macro lens.

I prefer to do all of my macro work from a tripod so AF is not a feature I need on a macro lens. If you will be using a macro lens hand held, than having AF might be a need for you.

If you want AF, I suggest you get the Nikon 105mm f2.8 AF VR lens. Or a used Nikon 105mm f2.8 AF-D lens.
 
Suggest you stick with the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G AF-S version. On the D500 you will get the 1.5x field of view increase. Should you later decide to buy a new body like the D780, D850 or one of the FX mirrorless bodies you can use the 105 to do focus shift stacks which are great on macro shots (See Steve's course on htis topic). You need the autofocus to do the automated focus stack shooting plus either PS or a focus stacking software.
 
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