You need to click on a solid, try the Godox writing on the softbox.
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You need to click on a solid, try the Godox writing on the softbox.
It doesn't matter where I click. The dropper affects the WB for the entire picture. The problem is that there is a hue difference between the blacks. That can't be fixed by the eyedropper or any editing that affects the whole picture.You need to click on a solid, try the Godox writing on the softbox.
I am pursuing some ideas on what is causing what I'm seeing. However, it is OT to this thread, except to say that I find WB cards to be unhelpful because of the unexpected colors.
I could start a new thread once I have some explanations, if anyone would find that useful.
Global adjustments can't do selective adjustments.For laughs, I downloaded your last image, clicked with the dropper on the Godox letters and that made the background and the softbox neutral on my screen. If it's not working for you, maybe your computer screen is off calibration.
Since we're continuing...
Thanks, Nimi, I appreciate you taking an interest. But remember that you can't make local adjustments with global adjustments. Global includes things like monitor settings, WB, light color, temp, tint, what have you.
I think Optical Brightening Agents are playing a role here. Optical brighteners are colorless dyes that are added to many products including paper. They make paper look whiter by generating a small blue glow from incident ultraviolet light. That bluishness cancels out the natural yellowness of paper, and allows manufacturers to claim extreme whiteness levels. When you go into some bars that have black light, those OBAs light up in some clothing and some paper.
I don't have a UV light handy to do direct testing, but I did do a comparison of light sources - Godox modified flash vs incandescent. I suppose the flashes have a small amount of UV, whereas incandescent will be very poor in UV.
We were talking about blacks before, but I'm switching to whites here. I hope that doesn't confuse the issue too much. But I often observe color shifts in whites too.
Here is a comparison with the two light sources. I used the eye dropper on both photos between the doll and the chicken.
View attachment 96687
I suspect my black textured backdrop was printed on material containing optical brighteners, and that is causing it to shift blue.
Bill, you appear to be talking about color balance. Color balance is not the same as color rendering.
Hello, yes, correct. As one that is involved in provided Quality Control Systems to Pulp&Paper Industry (Valmet Automation), I know the process-control part rather well.
On top of the OBA, which is basically a ‘sheet brightness enhancer’, there often is basic, or full color-control, involved. Advanced color-control will include online monitoring and shade/color-control via typically a mix of 2 or 3 dyes, green, blue, red.
Customers will replenish dye-batches from the likes of BASF, for example, and the online color-sensor will be calibrated against standard Lab principles, to ensure color-accuracy across dye-batches. There also is a standard calibrated white-tile to ensure brightness is accurate.
Anyway, you will always find color-variation in paper, depending on the calibration principles, sensor accuracy and repeatability, dye-concentrations, and others. It’s not uncommon to find greens, yellows, blues, out there. Blue often appears the brightest, but to see these differences, paper-sheets must be compared side-side.
Anyway, if you want to calibrate against pure white, you might be able to get hold of a standard white color-sensor calibration tile, these will hold their original color and brightness for many years. But, they are expensive.
Pardon the verbiage.
Just a wee bit curious: has anyone here ever used an Expodisc 2.0? I've had one in my camera bag for years to use in lieu of a grey card, and I've never been disappointed by the results.
The only instance in which I had trouble was photographing an outdoor reception on a partially shaded lawn. Essentially, I was just taking candid snapshoots. I learned from experience that the camera's automatic settings do a more credible job then. Otherwise, the WB needs to be reset constantly. When doing indoor stills, or shooting anywhere that the light source is fluorescent, the Expodisc is quite good.I've not used one but they seem solid. Similar to an incident colorimeter for that one purpose but a lot cheaper. The only caveat is the usual one, that the camera has to be in the same light as the subject pointing at the light. If the subject is in shadow but you are not or vice versa you have to take notice and adapt. Do you find it reliable?