Saint
Member
If its the B2-LR II that is
Wimberley MonoGimbal Head clamp replacement
- Thread starter Ivan Rothman
- Start date
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Which model rrs?
just ordered one.
Do they also fit the Wimberley 200, or do I need something else?
Do they also fit the Wimberley 200, or do I need something else?
Graham Clark
gc-graphs
If its the WH200 take a look at the RRS PG-CC Cradle Clamp, works fine
That's pretty good customer service. It is unusual for a company to modify its product with the product of another. Speaks highly of Wimberley's commitment to satisfied customers.
dorthzyx
Active member
Why not use an ishoot lever clamp which is much less expensive?
The pg-cc cradle clamp is exactly what I am looking for but it is not available. Not listd at all on the RRS website, has listings on Amazon and Adorama but "no longer available_.
RRS sells its own gimbal for the $700 range that includes a quick release lever clamp.
Winberly does not list a quick release lever plate in its list of accessories.
RRS sells its own gimbal for the $700 range that includes a quick release lever clamp.
Winberly does not list a quick release lever plate in its list of accessories.
NWGuy
Well-known member
I've considering going to a lever style clamp for a while after seeing Steve's review, RRS always seems to be out of stock. As the clamps range in length, from 50 mm to 80 mm, is there any recommendations as to whether longer is more secure or a waste of money? Biggest lens will be a Nikkor 180-600mm on the monogimbal (although I do fantasize about the 800 mm). Thanks
for the 100 mono gimbal head I don't think length matters much.
I use it with an 800 all the time and it works fine.
The reason for a long cradle would be to help with balance, be able to get it in the sweet spot. That may be important for lens feet but it is not so big a deal with the gimbal mount itself. The shorter RRS lever clamp should do just fine.
I use it with an 800 all the time and it works fine.
The reason for a long cradle would be to help with balance, be able to get it in the sweet spot. That may be important for lens feet but it is not so big a deal with the gimbal mount itself. The shorter RRS lever clamp should do just fine.
Typically one of the big stores like B H will have those in stock even though RRS indicates it is out. I just picked up a lever clamp base from B H and should get it today.
michaelmcdonald
New member
michaelmcdonald
New member
I'm attempting to perform the monogimbal head replacement using the two lock nuts. I seem to be having an issue as the nuts simply unscrew when I try to turn them counter-clockwise. I was wondering if someone here might be able to assist with what I may be doing wrong? My process thus far:
1) removed the rubber knob
2) removed the washer assembly
3) removed the dovetail shaft assembly
4) removed the plastic washer
5) put the existing plate face down (so the metal rod is sticking up)
6) screw the nuts clockwise onto the threads
7) attempt to tighten the nuts against one another
8) use the spanner to hold onto the top most nut, turn counter-clockwise
This simply causes the nut to start unscrewing. I'm sure I'm missing something simple, but for the life of me can't figure it out.
1) removed the rubber knob
2) removed the washer assembly
3) removed the dovetail shaft assembly
4) removed the plastic washer
5) put the existing plate face down (so the metal rod is sticking up)
6) screw the nuts clockwise onto the threads
7) attempt to tighten the nuts against one another
8) use the spanner to hold onto the top most nut, turn counter-clockwise
This simply causes the nut to start unscrewing. I'm sure I'm missing something simple, but for the life of me can't figure it out.
aolander
Well-known member
Directions are wrong. Hold the inner most nut with a wrench, turn counter-clockwise. Think how things with right-handed threads screw and unscrew.
michaelmcdonald
New member
Hey @aolander!
Appreciate the reply! Count me stupid: I assume by turn counter-clockwise you're referencing the wrench holding the nut (like the attached photo), with me holding the existing plate stationary?
Attachments
aolander
Well-known member
That's correct. The inner nut will jam against the outer nut, and the only thing that can move is the shaft unscrewing from the clamp. Some of the original directions said to hold the top (outside) nut, but that was wrong or misstated.
michaelmcdonald
New member
Well I was able to get the nuts on pretty darn tight, but I could not for the life of me get the rod unscrewed :(
I live in the US at least and may reach out to Wimberley about mailing to them and swapping out the head.
I live in the US at least and may reach out to Wimberley about mailing to them and swapping out the head.
RKT
New member
I have read in some previous thread that they actually recommend this, so that they can tighten the thing back to 'spec' with machines ... though I think I also read that they retain the original clamp, if that matters ... but I don't have any first hand info on this bit ...
aolander
Well-known member
There may be some Loctite on the threads. If you're brave, you could heat the shaft near the clamp with a propane torch a little then try to unscrew it.