Wind. How to stop it. Q for Macro Shooters.

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

Member's gallery
if it is a little breezy, sometimes I can use my body as a shield or just wait for it to settle down and shoot between gusts. If it is a little more windy, I will head to deep woods and shoot more stationary subjects like fungi, moss, patterns in bark, etc. If it is really windy, I don't shoot outdoor macro.
Jeff
 
Member's gallery
Hi!
I was blown away when I saw the field-craft of Jamie Spensley using the new Olympus camera. I do not think my Nikon D850 is capable of this speed of flash shooting (ADVICE PLEASE HERE FROM ANYONE IF I AM WRONG). The way he captures images to stack while in the field is on par with what most macro shooters can only achieve in the studio. This video shows his field techniques:
and the next one is number 4 in his series; Insect Macro Photography: Episodes 1-6.
I believe he is in manual mode and moves very slowly forward until he sees the first focus peaking on the insect to fire the shutter and keeps moving forward a fraction. He then backs off and does it again and again. He uses Zerene Stacker to stack the images. He also uses bracketing - one of his videos is on settings.
Anyone interested in macro should have a look at this. These are the some of the best macro shots taken of live insects in the field that I have seen. It MAY all be down to the new Olympus camera. Let me know.
 
Member's gallery
Use a narrow aperture (f/11 or 16), the maximum sync shutter speed, and a low ISO (200 or less). That reduces ghosting from sunlight. Shading with your body helps but can spook the bug.

Use a powerful (diffused) flash that you can turn down to 1/4 or 1/8 power. That is better than a weaker flash at full power. Reducing the power gives a short-duration flash which freezes motion better. (At full power the duration might be around 1/300 or 1/500 sec which might be too long.)

Take lots of shots, because when hand-holding, it is impossible to ensure critical focus whether using MF or AF. More shots increase the odds of getting one properly focused.

Sometimes it's possible to move the subject to a better location where there is less motion. That is a last-resort option.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top