groob
Active member
Well, again, using full manual with a mirrorless camera renders the metering choice largely meaningless because one can see the exposure in the viewfinder.
Z8 Exposure Variability
- Thread starter tigger4t
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Centre waited also looks at the entire frame,.
Centre weighted divides the frame into two segments.
Most of the exposure is determined by a central circle that can often be varied in size though the area outside the central circle is also taken into account when calculating centre weighted exposures.
A bias of 80% for the central Circle and 20% for the outer area is not uncommon.
I see your point, I was just saying what i did because in my view the same is also true of any of the auto modes combined with exposure compensation. If one doesn’t like what is seen in the viewfinder they don't have to use it, no matter how they got there. Assuming there is time to make the adjustment.
Yes. Absolutely but 80% will definitely help lesson the over or under exposure in contrast to matrix metering.
threesixty
New member
While it might be disconcerting, what you’re seeing is normal and the camera’s behaving as expected — I’ve seen the same thing routinely many times with both my own Z8 and D500.
Just look at the histograms — there’s not a huge difference — only what might be explained by a slight change in shooting angle relative to the sun and focus point position relative to different total amount of background light.
The very small amount of clipping you have in the two shots is nearly identical.
Remember that ISO doesn’t control exposure — it’s a consequence of it.
Manual with Auto ISO is just manual. All light hitting the sensor is still controlled by 3 things: ambient light levels plus the shutter speed and aperture you manually set.
So, in post, I’l wager these two shots can be made fairly similar with about the same amount of noise simply by moving the exposure slider (which, on an ISO invariant camera like the Z8, does pretty much the same thing as raising the ISO in camera).
Just look at the histograms — there’s not a huge difference — only what might be explained by a slight change in shooting angle relative to the sun and focus point position relative to different total amount of background light.
The very small amount of clipping you have in the two shots is nearly identical.
Remember that ISO doesn’t control exposure — it’s a consequence of it.
Manual with Auto ISO is just manual. All light hitting the sensor is still controlled by 3 things: ambient light levels plus the shutter speed and aperture you manually set.
So, in post, I’l wager these two shots can be made fairly similar with about the same amount of noise simply by moving the exposure slider (which, on an ISO invariant camera like the Z8, does pretty much the same thing as raising the ISO in camera).
O
Well-known member
Agree completely
aringer
Active member
I agree that the change in background messed with the auto ISO. This is the perfect example for when to use manual ISO: Same light, same exposure. Get the subject right and ignore the backgrounds.
threesixty
New member
Manual with Auto ISO is just manual.
ISO doesn’t have any effect on exposure — it’s an outcome of it.
When you’re controlling the aperture and shutter speed yourself, the only other change in exposure is change in ambient light.
The camera has no exposure control.
ISO doesn’t have any effect on exposure — it’s an outcome of it.
When you’re controlling the aperture and shutter speed yourself, the only other change in exposure is change in ambient light.
The camera has no exposure control.
Wrong. AUTO ISO changes the signal amplification coming off the sensor, bumping exposure up or down depending on the meter reading. Manual + Auto ISO is a misnomer; it's an auto setting similar to Aperture and Shutter Priority.
Nimi, I think you are technically wrong on this.
Exposure, strictly speaking, is the amount of light falling on the sensor. In auto ISO, it is indeed true that the brightness of the image in the viewfinder will change, but (in Manual exposure mode) it changes neither the sensitivity of the sensor nor the shutter speed and f-number...So the exposure remains the same.
And, if the camera is ISO invariant, the outcome in terms of signal and signal-to-noise is the same.
Webbie!
Member
In Custom Settings, change c1: Shutter-Release Button AE-L to On (burst mode). That will lock the Auto-ISO (exposure) for the first frame in the shot and all subsequent shots in the 20fps (or any multiple fps) burst. When you lift your finger off the shutter release, Auto-ISO will "unlock" and change according to light conditions.
FWIW: I use -1 Exposure Compensation to get a full stop lower ISO with Auto-ISO. There is a point where the ISO is too high for ISO invariance to be a factor, but it may just be wishful thinking on my part.
c1: Shutter-Release Button AE-L
onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com
macwalter
Active member
I have experienced this on a few occasions. I am sure it has to do with metering variations as the bird is moving through different backgrounds. I actually asked Steve a while back when this first happened about a year ago. He recommended shooting full manual but I find this difficult to do in many cases so I tend to stay in M-auto iso as in the vast majority of cases the exposure is correct or at least close. I generally use matrix on the z8 and do find I have to pay more attention to exposure compensation than I did on the d850. Using the d850 I tended to prefer center weighted and usually set my exposure compensation to -.3 or -.7. Getting tack sharp images is so much easier on the z8 it almost doesn’t matter as you will have so many more chances to get the shot. I usually use matrix metering and occasionally use single point if the subject is very dark and big in the frame.