Z9: Settings for Flash

[McStamp]

I am not experienced at all when it comes to shooting with flashes. I started, however, some trials with shooting night active animals and I am using two remote flashes (Profoto). Would you mind sharing your experiences with the settings in the Z9 - or similar - as to exposure compensation (e3) and auto ISO sensitivity control (e4). Do you shoot in M mode with auto ISO or do you prefer another mode?

Thanks for giving me your input, highly appreciated!

 

[KAC]

The majority of my professional shooting is done with my Z9, and I'm also a Profoto user, so I hope I can help.

I use no exposure compensation.

Assuming I have sufficient lighting, I shoot at ISO 64 the vast majority of the time, depending on how lit I want my background to be.

I do shoot in M.

I'm happy to answer any specific questions you might have. What lights are you using, A10s? Are you using them both off camera?

 

[dabhand16]

I don't have a Z9 but I think that auto ISO will do you no favours using flash at night. Auto ISO is great when you are shooting and the ambient light is varying, but when you have complete control over the light manual mode is the best on the camera and flash. Exposure compensation again is unnecessary when you have control over the light.

 

[gmart7717]

According to the ProFoto website, Auto-ISO is currently not supported.

 

[gmart7717]

Here's another one from their website:

To get your Nikon fully compatible with Profoto you should
change the camera settings below for full support.

HSS
Select the option that ends with “(Auto FP)” in the Flash Sync Speed menu (e1)

Note: The actual shutter speed for Auto FP differs dependent on the camera, usually this is "1/250 (Auto FP)"



Disable Auto ISO

Later Nikon cameras (Z-series) will have Auto ISO enabled by default, for AirTTL to work properly this should be disabled.
Find and disable “Auto ISO sensitivity control” in the Camera Settings menu.

Note: Most Nikon will toggle Auto ISO by holding the ISO button and turning the Sub-Command dial (front facing dial).

 

[McStamp]

The majority of my professional shooting is done with my Z9, and I'm also a Profoto user, so I hope I can help.

I use no exposure compensation.

Assuming I have sufficient lighting, I shoot at ISO 64 the vast majority of the time, depending on how lit I want my background to be.

I do shoot in M.

I'm happy to answer any specific questions you might have. What lights are you using, A10s? Are you using them both off camera?

I am using two A2, both off camera. Sometimes with softbox, but mostly without. When I read that you shoot with 64 ISO, I probably go too high with ISO (1000-1600), have to try with lower.
Thanks a bunch for your help!

 

[McStamp]

Here's another one from their website:

To get your Nikon fully compatible with Profoto you should
change the camera settings below for full support.

HSS
Select the option that ends with “(Auto FP)” in the Flash Sync Speed menu (e1)

Note: The actual shutter speed for Auto FP differs dependent on the camera, usually this is "1/250 (Auto FP)"



Disable Auto ISO

Later Nikon cameras (Z-series) will have Auto ISO enabled by default, for AirTTL to work properly this should be disabled.
Find and disable “Auto ISO sensitivity control” in the Camera Settings menu.

Note: Most Nikon will toggle Auto ISO by holding the ISO button and turning the Sub-Command dial (front facing dial).

Thanks. I didn't even get this far in reading with Profoto, my fault!

 

[KAC]

I am using two A2, both off camera. Sometimes with softbox, but mostly without. When I read that you shoot with 64 ISO, I probably go too high with ISO (1000-1600), have to try with lower.
Thanks a bunch for your help!

This all is affected by how much background you want in your picture. At higher ISOs, you are likely to pick up more of the background in your shot. Using a very low number ISO as I often do, I pick up very little of the background and concentrate more on my subject.

 

[Rassie]

Just a general observation the way I understand it:
If you shoot TTL - balanced light using flash, the camera exposure is the main exposure, so that has to be set correctly for the scene. The flash in that case provides fill light to tame dark shadow areas. You can set exposure compensation for the camera in the normal way, or you can set exposure compensation for the flash itself to reduce or increase its output. In a dim light situation, with ISO and shutter speed too low in TTL the image will be underexposed, even with flash activated.

The other option is to set everything manual. That gives you more control over shutter and aperture settings even if it would usually result in underexposure. With flash on full power in that case the flash provides the main light and everything can look bright and stark.

 

[KAC]

Your points are well taken.

It’s fair to say I generally cheat, using both TTL AND Manual.

My camera is set on manual, with my choosing the settings based on what I’m trying to get out of the shot. Do I need a particular shutter speed (given the flash helps freeze the moment), what do I want to do with DOF, what do I want to do with the background, etc.

Then I’ll take a shot TTL and see how close i am. I then turn the flash to manual to make any needed adjustments.

 

[wotan1]

My main use of flash is for fill flash ttl. The most compatible speedlight is the SB 5000. The beauty of this system is the exposure is set as usual by the camera
metering system and the flash adjusts automatically.

I have found fill flash useful in some landscape work, for instance photographing from underneath a tree with an interesting branch structure.

I have not messed with bigger lighting systems. I mostly do outdoor nature photography and I have enough to carry without adding lighting equipment. Lighting is another whole world of photography and I don't have space for a studio right now.

Some day.