Gimbal and Monopod for bird photography?

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James C.

James C.

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I have been toying with the idea of getting a monopod this year. Possibly the Tiffen SteadyCam Air 15 or the E-Image MC600 4-Stage Carbon Fiber monopod. I am leaning towards the E-Image because of the locking clamps vs. the Air 15's twist locks, and the weight factor.

The main reason why I haven't gone with a monopod or tripod is because I prefer the freedom of being able to whip my camera into position when a bird pops up or takes off. I see a gimbal and tri-/monopod as being an impediment to that type of shooting.

However, I am interested to hear from more experienced bird photographers what you think, and what your experiences are. And which monopod and gimbal head would work together for this type of photography and allow for spontaneity.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
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The main reason why I haven't gone with a monopod or tripod is because I prefer the freedom of being able to whip my camera into position when a bird pops up or takes off. I see a gimbal and tri-/monopod as being an impediment to that type of shooting.

That's my situation too. There are certainly shots that are difficult or impossible to get when using mono/tripod.

When in a hide I find that using a bird hide clamp setup doesn't have the same limitations so I find it to be really valuable.
 
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This is such an individual thing. I actually find a tripod easier to use than a monopod. I'm also able to track birds better with a big prime lens on a tripod than with a smaller lens like the 500PF shooting handheld. The smoother motion of swinging a big lens on a gimbal improves tracking. But obviously either the monopod or purely handheld provide much better mobility. So IMO if you're shooting from a stationary position a tripod w/gimbal is optimal. If mobility is important then a monopod is better. And if you're going to be constantly on the move handheld or an aiming stock are best.

If you are going with a monopod a gimbal head is superior to a classic monopod head that tilts one direction. Same effect as on a tripod the gimbal provides the smoothest motion for tracking BIF, etc. Of course there is a weight penalty with a gimbal.
 
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If I understood Steve Perry's video correctly, if you use the Wimberley WH-100 monopod gimbal head, I'll also need to get an "Arca" quick release plate, AND a new collar/foot to attach it to? Have the rest of you done this who use this combo? What's the expense, and how does your camera feel when you're not using the monopod and gimbal? Do you switch out the foot and arca plate each time?
 
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The WH-100 come with a Swiss-Arca base and yes you would need a Swiss-Arca plate for you camera. Also. If you plan to take nearly overhead BIF pictures, get a tripod taller than you. You can always make it shorter!

So the Gimbal is your up/down axis and rotating the monopod is your side to side. I have demonstrated that to a number of soon to be embarrassed people!😁
 
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Not experienced just a hobby.
I always hand held until an accident, now I need to support my camera from shake.
I bought carbon fibre Gitzo tripod & monopod.
Markins Q20 & Wimberley mh100.
The monopod & sidekick is perfect, also easy to carry camera over shoulder with monopod.
 
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And if I understand all this correctly, I will need to purchase the Really Right Stuff Collar Foot Package for Nikon AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR Lens, to use the Wimberly gimbal head WITH the monopod?

This is starting to look like a rather expensive solution.
 
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James C. said:
And if I understand all this correctly, I will need to purchase the Really Right Stuff Collar Foot Package for Nikon AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR Lens, to use the Wimberly gimbal head WITH the monopod?
Click to expand...
Well you at least need an Arca Swiss plate but sure you can opt to replace the entire lens collar with the RRS or similar. The good aftermarket lens collars do have an Arca Swiss foot and they tend to be smoother and a bit better made than Nikon's factory original lens collar but all you need is a suitable Arca Swiss lens plate to use the mono gimbal that has an Arca Swiss clamp.

If you do go the lens plate route (which is exactly what I did with my Nikon 200-500mm lens) look for one with anti-rotation features like multiple mounting screws or a lip at the back. Generic lens plates with rubber friction inserts tend to slip over time, a decent lens plate designed not to rotate is a better bet. Something like this would work: https://www.adorama.com/kirklp450.h...D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&utm_source=nmpi-google-dsa. But there are less expensive options out there as well and lots of used Arca Swiss plates available on eBay and elsewhere.
 
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I bought a plate to start but the Nikon collar on my 200-500 was just to horrid.
I bought a Kirk collar, really worth extra money for a smooth ride.
There is always the option of 2 nd
hand collar
 
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Whenever and wherever possible, I use my Gitzo 5543 tripod and Benro GH2 gimbal for BIF. I find it much easier than hand-holding my D850 and 200-500 lens, and it gives me better sharpness and a higher keeper rate. Once you get used to using a quality tripod/gimbal setup, I think you'll find it far superior to hand holding a big camera package too.
 
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Ok. So I've been doing research and I'm now considering the E-Magic MC-600 carbon fiber monopod and the Wimberley MH-100 monopod gimbal head.

My last concern is should I:
1) keep using the Nikon foot & collar that came with my 200-500mm lens and add the $55 Wimberley P-30 Quick Release plate (recommended by Wimberley for this lens), OR
2) should I get the $250 Really Right Stuff (RRS) Collar and Foot package?

Solution #1 is much less expensive, but some have said that the RSS collar rotates more smoothly if going from landscape to portrait orientation than the one that came with the Nikon 200-500mm lens.

Any suggestions?
 
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I have been using the Nikon 200-500 collar with the Wimberly P30 on my MH-100 without any issues.

I use Threadlocker Orange on the screw from the mounting plate to the collar foot. Nothing is going to work loose!

The Threadlocker Orange is really strong but does not require "special tools" to remove the object on all my mounting threads. Don't use the permanent Threadlocker because it is REALLY difficult to uncouple things!!

That is one of the reasons why I did not buy the RRS Collar because that would be 2 potential places for the camera to work loose (the AS mount to the camera and then the AS mount to the tripod). I'm sure someone will jump in with a comment on their RRS collar experiences.


Being the paranoid individual that I am, I always use a safety tether, especially since I carry the monopod across my shoulder, with a pool noodle with a slit cut, to pad my shoulder. Here is a link to using straps/tethers: https://bcgforums.com/index.php?threads/straps-love-em-or-hate-em.5984/

The monopod and noodle definitely make the 200-500 MUCH less strenuous to carry long distances! You can hook the camera against your back as you walk. Steve has a video of that somewhere on the site.
 
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James C. said:
Ok. So I've been doing research and I'm now considering the E-Magic MC-600 carbon fiber monopod and the Wimberley MH-100 monopod gimbal head.

My last concern is should I:
1) keep using the Nikon foot & collar that came with my 200-500mm lens and add the $55 Wimberley P-30 Quick Release plate (recommended by Wimberley for this lens), OR
2) should I get the $250 Really Right Stuff (RRS) Collar and Foot package?

Solution #1 is much less expensive, but some have said that the RSS collar rotates more smoothly if going from landscape to portrait orientation than the one that came with the Nikon 200-500mm lens.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...


I started off with a Kirk lensplate but have changed it to a Kirk lens collar, well worth
the cost in my opinion. The RSS collar is considerably more expensive in Europe where
i am so it was an easy choice for me.
 
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Patrick M said:
I have a mefoto tripod ... one leg comes off and transforms to a monopod easily.
I also use the Wimberley monogimbel
Click to expand...
I have this exact same setup and it works a treat.
James C. said:
The main reason why I haven't gone with a monopod or tripod is because I prefer the freedom of being able to whip my camera into position when a bird pops up or takes off. I see a gimbal and tri-/monopod as being an impediment to that type of shooting.
Click to expand...
I also felt the same way however since I started using the setup above I am a true convert.
 
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Patrick M said:
I have a mefoto tripod ... one leg comes off and transforms to a monopod easily.
I also use the Wimberley monogimbel following Steve’s review
I used the combo with a Nikon D7500 with the 200-500 attached. on a cruise through Antarctica it was fantastic. birds, whales, easy to swing around. highly recomended.
Click to expand...
I also use, and recommend this combination with my 200-500 lens. I took Steve Perry' advice and made sure to get a monopod that was long enough to be able to somewhat triangulate my forehead, the ground, and my feet. That REALLY helps in stabilizing the shooting plus this combination works very comfortably to shoulder the setup while walking around.
 
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I actually started using my Benro GH2 gimbal head with a monopod last year for shooting warblers during the migration and it is my preferred setup. I have a Sirui tripod that converts to a monopod so I just use that. I honestly don’t think the choice of monopod makes much difference as long as it’s tall enough and lightweight. I use this setup with my D500 and Tamron 150-600 G2. The camera/lens combo isn’t that heavy compared with a large PF lens, but warblers are tiny, are usually far away, move very quickly, and generally are in higher branches overhead. I find a tripod to be useless because of how quickly they move from tree to tree ( though they’re good if you can set up at a drip) . I can handhold ok but it gets tiring quick having to point it overhead and track a bouncy warbler. Using my gimbal on a monopod is light enough to walk through the woods with and super quick to just plant it on the ground for support when I spot a bird. I always leave it at maximum height and just tilt it back if I need it lower - I am really just using it to support the weight camera for extended periods and help keep steady, but I still use the VR on the lens along with fast shutter speeds. This approach definitely improved my ability to track tiny songbirds and increase my keeper rate with minimal weight/mobility penalty.
 
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Patrick M said:
I have a mefoto tripod ... one leg comes off and transforms to a monopod easily.
I also use the Wimberley monogimbel following Steve’s review
I used the combo with a Nikon D7500 with the 200-500 attached. on a cruise through Antarctica it was fantastic. birds, whales, easy to swing around. highly recomended.
Click to expand...
I have a MeFoto Globe Trotter that I have my Wimberly Gimbal mounted on. I have not used it for a couple of years but it was suripisingly stable. I have not tried it with my new 600 f/4 E ... waiting for a replacement foot to arrive. I have a beefier Feisol Tripod that is the other option.
 
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"BENRO GH2"
I recently started shooting with sony 200-600 and I consider buying a gimbal.
Wimberley WH-200 is well rated but is off from my budget.
I wonder if BENRO GH2 worth the price. I leave in Europe and here I can buy it for €270.
The main concern is about friction, if it's bushing instead of bearing. I've seen few bad reviews complaining about tilt movement.
 
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