So in manual with auto iso Sony has a wheel for shutter, a wheel for aperture and a third wheel for EC?
Aperture priority vs Manual with auto ISO
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So in manual with auto iso Sony has a wheel for shutter, a wheel for aperture and a third wheel for EC?
There's a wheel for shutter, a wheel for aperture, and a dial on top for EC on the A1. The latter is easy to reach -- too easy, sometimes. But handy nonetheless.
arbitrage
Well-known member
More than that...you have a wheel for aperture, wheel for SS, wheel for ISO and the fixed EC dial (which is actually now programmable on the A7IV). No fiddling pushing a button and then a wheel. Just one of the countless reasons I enjoy operating a Sony camera over any other brand.
FWIW, I nearly always leave it in Manual with auto-ISO. However I can periodically be surprised by BIF opportunities against a sky/bright background without time to make many adjustments. The metering almost never comes out right if in auto-ISO, so I periodically monitor the amount of light and set the ISO for what would likely be close to the exposure given my current shutter speed. So then if I do get a surprise BIF, all I have to do is switch from auto-ISO to fixed ISO. Now with the z9, I might start looking at the shooting recall to resolve this situation in a different way, but since I'm still shooting a D850 as a backup, I'm trying to keep muscle-memory similar between the two.
arbitrage
Well-known member
As to the OPs question...
I prefer full Manual and set all three variables myself. Typically I leave aperture wide open so don't worry about it. Then it is usually just a SSvsISO dance. I usually have my camera setup so that my main settings are ready to go for action (faster SS, higher ISO) and a custom button is set to recall a slowerSS/lowerISO. Depending on which brand of camera I'm using I have different ways to setup this recall button. On Canon I use C1 mode (with Auto update) set to another set of full manual settings and M-Fn button to toggle between C1 and M. On Sony I have a Recall button to use a slower SS (usually 1/320) and Auto-ISO. On Nikon I used a Recall button in the same manner.
In constant lighting I think that it is much better to not rely on Aperture Priority or Auto-ISO. If you use Auto-ISO or Aperture Priority you still have to fiddle with EC...I don't have to fiddle with anything. If you are trying to make a quick change to settings then in my way I have to typically change SS and ISO. With the other methods you still have to say change SS and EC so you still are changing two variables.
In lighting that is constantly changing then for sure there is an argument to make for one of the semi-auto modes. But I only see that as beneficial if it is a scenario where you can leave EC alone because otherwise you are still adjusting SS and EC.
I prefer full Manual and set all three variables myself. Typically I leave aperture wide open so don't worry about it. Then it is usually just a SSvsISO dance. I usually have my camera setup so that my main settings are ready to go for action (faster SS, higher ISO) and a custom button is set to recall a slowerSS/lowerISO. Depending on which brand of camera I'm using I have different ways to setup this recall button. On Canon I use C1 mode (with Auto update) set to another set of full manual settings and M-Fn button to toggle between C1 and M. On Sony I have a Recall button to use a slower SS (usually 1/320) and Auto-ISO. On Nikon I used a Recall button in the same manner.
In constant lighting I think that it is much better to not rely on Aperture Priority or Auto-ISO. If you use Auto-ISO or Aperture Priority you still have to fiddle with EC...I don't have to fiddle with anything. If you are trying to make a quick change to settings then in my way I have to typically change SS and ISO. With the other methods you still have to say change SS and EC so you still are changing two variables.
In lighting that is constantly changing then for sure there is an argument to make for one of the semi-auto modes. But I only see that as beneficial if it is a scenario where you can leave EC alone because otherwise you are still adjusting SS and EC.
abc123brian
Well-known member
The Fujifilm cameras I had were like that too. I liked it but Fuji’s didn’t lock so it was easy to move them accidentally while carrying the camera which wasn‘t good. I think they fixed that on later cameras.
abc123brian
Well-known member
If you’re shooting Z lenses with the control ring, you can put EC on the control ring and there is no need to push a button. I tried it to confirm, but I’m not sure how I feel about using a lens ring for EC as it could potentially be easily turned by accident. Mine is currently set to the default setting of aperture and I haven’t seen it change yet, so maybe it isn’t a big concern.
AlfC
Member
That sounds like an approach I should try. It might take me a while before stop forgetting to adjust SS or ISO (especially on the D500 - the OVF trap for those who shoot mirrorless too). Doesn't it make the nice EC control on the A1 redundant though?
abc123brian
Well-known member
I primarily use option 1 for wildlife and really most things now. I got used to shooting in full manual when I was using canon DSLRs, but auto exposure is pretty good now. I switched to Aperture priority with Auto ISO and while that seems to work well, there are some issues with it, like the one you mentioned. It made sense to me to use because I was always going to have aperture wide open, or at least most of the time, and I’d let the camera adjust shutter and iso with minimum shutter speed set. Then I saw Steve’s video on manual + iso and it fixed the one issue I was running into but solving for a more complicated and slower way. His comment of being able to turn shutter speed down to get a lower iso shot when a subject is not moving and quickly turning it back up if the subject begins moving was the easy solution. (I was actually putting the camera into manual iso to achieve the same, but this is much slower). Using exposure compensation is a great tool here. It’s also easy enough to take over full manual if needed. As long as you understand exposure, this makes a lot of sense. when I’m shooting BIF, I know i want my shutter at least 1/2000, I want my iso as low as possible, so I’ll have the aperture at f/5.6, so why not set those and let the camera do the rest. If your shooting a bright white bird, dial EC down quickly and if your shooting a dark bird against a bright background, dial it up. if it was a hawk that flew past and landed in the tree, you can then quickly back shutter down to something 1/500 and get a lower iso perched shot. if the light is tricky, just set the exposure manually including iso and you’re covered. It’s been working great for me.
That would be nice to have the extra wheel. Canon has 2 wheels. In the flexible mode the bottom of the evf has f number, shutter, EC, and ISO. One wheel puts you at rest on one of the 4 areas and the other wheel then adjusts that item up or down. So you can leave it rest on EC then it's under control of a single dial. Kind of similar to a multifunction button. Also some lenses have a control ring that can be set to iso or ec or other options. In aperture priority one wheel controls aperture the other controls EC.
arbitrage
Well-known member
I still make use of the EC dial for my Recall button that I have set to Auto-ISO. But otherwise I don't use the EC dial. May be the reason they changed things on the latest A7IV and now have that dial programmable and not fixed as an EC dial. I haven't looked into what options you can put on it.
arbitrage
Well-known member
On the R5 and R3 I used that upper rear MODE wheel to change ISO, lower wheel for aperture and front wheel for SS. Same as I do on my Sony cameras. So at least with the latest Canon MILCs you do have 3 wheels (and can add a 4th by using the lens/adapter control wheel).
Rahul Khosla
Member
I really appreciate your detailed response which has helped me a lot. Thank you
Rahul Khosla
Member
Yes exactly, a third wheel for EC would be brilliant !
Rahul Khosla
Member
Thanks this was helpful too.
joe43
Well-known member
I use Option 3 on my Nikon D500 and D850--Aperture Priority with Auto ISO--with an additional setting. When I set it up, I also set a minimum desired shutter speed, like 1/1250. And I set the ISO range from the lowest to the highest as I want the max shutter speed available and will live with "noise ." With these settings I can change my aperture as needed and the camera does the rest by changing the ISO to meet the minimum shutter speed. If Ex comp is needed I just set that too. And I can push the ISO button on the top of the camera and turn a wheel to switch off Auto ISO when needed.
Calson
Well-known member
I shot AP nearly 100% of the time until the Auto ISO performance improved with the D500 and D850 and D5 cameras. I then switched to Manual mode with Auto ISO as this gave me the control I wanted. With AP and wildlife photography the shutter speed would drop lower than I wanted for a subject and given situation.
I also found the focus by orientation (a7 setting) of the D850 very useful. I would be in AF-S mode in a vertical orientation and the camera would automatically switch to AF-F mode in horizontal orientation. Vey hand with a bird on a branch where a portrait mode was most often used and then the bird would poop and I knew it was about to take off and then I would turn the camera to landscape orientation and be ready for takeoff.
I also found the focus by orientation (a7 setting) of the D850 very useful. I would be in AF-S mode in a vertical orientation and the camera would automatically switch to AF-F mode in horizontal orientation. Vey hand with a bird on a branch where a portrait mode was most often used and then the bird would poop and I knew it was about to take off and then I would turn the camera to landscape orientation and be ready for takeoff.
What is the DMF setting for on the left hand wheel?
Oh I see. One thing Sony and Nikon have in common is the weird names they come up with for stuff
Doug Herr
Well-known member
Some lenses have a dedicated DMF switch so the camera can be in AF-C or AF-S and still have DMF available. I've used it to tell the camera to focus on the bird instead of on the mess of twigs in front of the bird.
Roy
Well-known member
Full manual has the advantage of all the frames in a set being similar in look/exposure.
Aperture priority with set ISO is good when the light might fail.
Aperture priority with auto ISO is the most versatile unless your shutter speed get to low for a fast subject.
Shutter priority is good for fast subjects when you know you need a fast shutter...
1. I use manual with auto iso and have since the D4S. I am a bird photographer and it allows for fast changing light conditions.
And for the rare scenic etc. I will go to full manual and also for the a situation for exposure on something like a large white bird where not blowing out the whites is critical.
2 Aperture priority with manual ISO is what I used for years using the iso button to keep my shutter speeds high enough but wanted congtrol over my depth of field.
3. Aperture priority with auto ISO has never made sense to me given there are then 2 auto settings in the camera and sometimes fighting each other and I have had people complain that auto ISO was causing over exposure etc. when we were in the field, and so far every time I have found they were in aperture priority rather than manual and they switched to manual with auto iso that worked for them.
And for the rare scenic etc. I will go to full manual and also for the a situation for exposure on something like a large white bird where not blowing out the whites is critical.
2 Aperture priority with manual ISO is what I used for years using the iso button to keep my shutter speeds high enough but wanted congtrol over my depth of field.
3. Aperture priority with auto ISO has never made sense to me given there are then 2 auto settings in the camera and sometimes fighting each other and I have had people complain that auto ISO was causing over exposure etc. when we were in the field, and so far every time I have found they were in aperture priority rather than manual and they switched to manual with auto iso that worked for them.
It seems from your query that the main thing is to be fast when action happens suddenly. That is option 1 with shutter already set at 1/3,200 and wide open. However, I then gather that you are not happy when this results in images with a higher iso. So if you want to set a lower iso (presumably to minimise noise) and be the fastest possible after that, you only have one option. Set aperture wide open and that will be the fastest shutter speed possible for your set iso.
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