I'll try that and see if it voids the override.I believe in that case you would continue to hold the shutter half press while manually focusing, then fully depress to shoot?
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I'll try that and see if it voids the override.I believe in that case you would continue to hold the shutter half press while manually focusing, then fully depress to shoot?
I didn’t realize you could override the mapped shutter AF, thanks for clarifying that. I was always under the impression that unless it was decoupled you were stuck having to go through it to release the shutter. I need to revisit this and play around with some new configurations then.If I'm understanding you correctly, then this is incorrect:
You do not need to decouple the shutter in order to have back buttons modifying your AF mode. I use shutter AF and my back buttons on Canon, Nikon and Sony when held in will override your basic setting coupled to the shutter. So I actually gain a potential additional alternative AF mode because all my back buttons (or front buttons on some cameras) can be alternative modes with my shutter being a different mode.
For instance on my current Sony bodies I keep 4 different AF modes selectable by toggle and deactivate the other ones. Those 4 are quickly cycled through and go to my shutter button. Then I have one of my three back buttons set to turn my main AF mode into the Tracking version of that mode. A 2nd back button switches directly into my 2nd most used mode (Zone AF on Sony) when I don't want to toggle my main mode (most of the time left in Wide AF on Sony) and my 3rd back button recalls a setting bank with a small AF mode, low SS and Auto-ISO (the only time I use Auto-ISO). That 3rd button used for more static subjects as I keep my main exposure settings geared for action.
Alternatively I could have the 3 back buttons all just recall a different AF mode and not change my shutter's AF mode.
On Nikon, I kept my shutter on Auto-AF and used the AF-ON button to recall Wide-Area and the DISP button to recall a single point.
I like the extra control of using BF...With DSLR’s, back button focus was the only option. This is because you would lock in the focus on the subject then re-compose the frame. However, I have started to wonder if this is still relevant with the new Z series and mirrorless cameras.
For most things, I now shoot AF subject detection. When using the subject detection, the focus tracks with the subject where ever it is in the frame. The focus stays on the subject and I can recompose all day long, never needing the back button focus.
For focus locking I can see where this may still be relevant ie. waiting for a subject to appear in a blank area, but this is rare for me in sports photography and some wildlife.
What benefit is it to still use back button focus or is it no longer relevant with AF subject detection and tracking.
I don't get needing BBF to focus/recompose. I've been doing it with half press since 1986 with the Minolta Maxxum 7000. The only time I use a BB for shooting anything is for Custom Hold on my Sonys, and those are really just slower shutters for panning.
I do as well, it's simply muscle memory. I can keep the camera in C-AF/Burst and take a single frame if needed, up to 15 FPS. Anything faster and I'll likely capture two frames. I think it's a matter of what you're used to, but I'm not convinced either has an advantage.I guess what is implied with the bbaf shooters is they keep the camera in continuous shooting mode, which otherwise would keep refocusing with the shutter half press.
I do as well, it's simply muscle memory. I can keep the camera in C-AF/Burst and take a single frame if needed, up to 15 FPS. Anything faster and I'll likely capture two frames. I think it's a matter of what you're used to, but I'm not convinced either has an advantage.
Easy, I addressed that in my first post.But if the user wants to focus on a subject then move the camera to change the composition while holding that same focus?
What if you need to leave the focus locked for longer than it is practical to keep the shutter button half depressed? You could switch to MF to lock the focus, but then you do not have AF readily available.Half press, recompose, press.
Sounds reasonable and possibly something I hadn't thought of. Do you have an example?What if you need to leave the focus locked for longer than it is practical to keep the shutter button half depressed? You could switch to MF to lock the focus, but then you do not have AF readily available.
This may not be relevant to your shooting situations, but it is for some people.
This could be relevant in several situations. For example there might be a sporting event where you want to capture action at a particular point, but where the subject detection AF could be confused by several competitors entering the frame at the same time. Photographing hurdlers and runners generally might be such circumstances. Also, you might want to lock focus on a landmark building but not to shoot until a particular set of circumstances arises; you don't want the AF to refocus because some person steps into the scene. Or maybe there is a piece of foliage which keeps swaying in front of the bird on the branch and you don't want the AF to be distracted by this.Sounds reasonable and possibly something I hadn't thought of. Do you have an example?
Maybe cameras are different. On my camera if I did that using the shutter half press to focus, the camera would refocus on whatever it was pointing at, unless I switched over to single-shot focus.Easy, I addressed that in my first post.
Half press, recompose, press.
It's not that hard to learn and I only need one button. Maybe there is an advantage after all.
Not saying BBF is wrong, but the OP asks if it's still needed. I vote no.
Then again, I've also shut off all tracking modes and use a medium center focus area. If I can't keep a moving subject properly composed, I lose the shot. That's on me, not the camera. I would probably engage it if I shot a lot of BIF, but my bird shots are only those of opportunity these days.
We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't see where my method wouldn't work in any of your examples. However, as you state, it's what works for the individual. There is no wrong!This could be relevant in several situations. For example there might be a sporting event where you want to capture action at a particular point, but where the subject detection AF could be confused by several competitors entering the frame at the same time. Photographing hurdlers and runners generally might be such circumstances. Also, you might want to lock focus on a landmark building but not to shoot until a particular set of circumstances arises; you don't want the AF to refocus because some person steps into the scene. Or maybe there is a piece of foliage which keeps swaying in front of the bird on the branch and you don't want the AF to be distracted by this.
There are various ways of dealing with these situations, but I find an advantage of BBAF is that I can deal with them, and others, by just pressing with, or lifting, my thumb without having to think about other settings.
I did use shutter button focus when I used Fuji cameras for a few years, because their BBAF implementation was poor, but I was glad to revert BBAF it when I rejoined the Nikon world.
But, and it is a big but, everyone must find the method that works best for them.
My method enables me to lock focus and not have to keep my finger on the shutter button for an extended period. But many people may not have that need.We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't see where my method wouldn't work in any of your examples. However, as you state, it's what works for the individual. There is no wrong!
I'm confused/missing something in your description.Easy, I addressed that in my first post.
Half press, recompose, press.
It's not that hard to learn and I only need one button. Maybe there is an advantage after all.
Not saying BBF is wrong, but the OP asks if it's still needed. I vote no.
Then again, I've also shut off all tracking modes and use a medium center focus area. If I can't keep a moving subject properly composed, I lose the shot. That's on me, not the camera. I would probably engage it if I shot a lot of BIF, but my bird shots are only those of opportunity these days.
Clarification: With tracking on. You can focus on a specific subject then recompose, and the camera tracks the subject wherever you it in the frame.I'm confused/missing something in your description.
If half-press, recompose, press works in the situation under discussion, how do you do get continuous AF? If the camera doesn't refocus when you move it, then obviously it is not in continuous AF with the shutter half-pressed, so how do you get into that mode?
But don't you have to keep your thumb on the BBF button?My method enables me to lock focus and not have to keep my finger on the shutter button for an extended period. But many people may not have that need.
No. When I take my thumb off the BBF button all focussing ceases, ie focus is locked. Which, in the circumstances I described, is what I want to achieve, and which is one of the benefits of BBAF in those circumstances. If I want to refocus, thumb goes down, and if I don't want to refocus thumb stays up.But don't you have to keep your thumb on the BBF button?
Okay, so in that case you are dependent upon the subject/eye tracking to keep focus. I don't think that will handle the "grass waving in front of the animal" all the time and it won't work if I need to use something like single point because I'm not tracking, I'm saying "focus here."Clarification: With tracking on. You can focus on a specific subject then recompose, and the camera tracks the subject wherever you it in the frame.