I have reached my decision and will be keeping the lens.
1. It is more portable, cabin baggage, carrying, handling.
2. At this point, I/we cannot see any obvious defect, and if one is found, I have return rights for a time, plus warranty.
3. It is a mirrorless lens with no adapter required and safer connection to the body.
4. It has its limits, all tech does.
5. My skills need improving and I need to pay a bit less attention to finding subjects, crawling through bushes (these two need to stay, they are very important in my neck of the woods), and focusing, but also concern myself more with lighting.
Still a question though, a poster above suggested the pheasant was too soft (and the background is not sky but grass), but the last two posters focused on overcast skies. What is the opinion of the last two posters and generally on the pheasant? Also, the blackcap in the thickets was taken with 600mm f4, what are your thoughts on that? By the way, all song birds shots were done under pressure. The blackcap was come and gone completely in 30 seconds, the woodpecker, maybe in 20 seconds, never to come back dutring the day.
Keep the lens only if you think you can use it effectively. Your 5th point is the most important with regard to practice and improving the skill set. There is no substitute for understanding light (quantity, quality, temperature, atmospherics, etc.) and how the camera interprets it. I appreciate that you want to "get the shot" at all costs and sometimes that's ok when one wants to shoot to work on other aspects of photography such as AF, tracking, framing, etc. Recognize how these factors will impact your image and utilize your knowledge and experience to leverage better results. You mentioned that the bird shots were, "done under pressure". What does that mean? Nearly every WL shot (and most photography) involves some degree of "pressure" namely timing, lighting, composition, physical environment, and other limitations. Gaining comfort in those circumstances and understanding how to best manipulate those factors given the situation are most important. Even with a degree of mastery, at times the outcomes will be less than ideal.
We addressed the issues of overcast conditions and many people (myself included) prefer overcast light because of its diffuse and even fill characteristics. It still has directionality and can change depending on the situation and may be associated with atmospherics. As we mentioned, generally one wants to avoid shooting subjects against a stark, overcast sky if possible and/or compensate exposure accordingly.
Let me pivot to some important aspects of your photography which are worth exploring, namely proper exposure and post processing. It is essential that one endeavors to get the exposure right (ETR) in camera as much as possible. That being said, the image the camera captures rarely represents what your eye and brain perceives and therein lies the importance of post processing. When I looked at the latest series of images you posted, nearly all of them were underexposed whether it was the birds against the sky, the birds in the thicket, etc. Without discussing HDR and bracketing in general, underexposure sacrifices information and that may be contributing to some of your lackluster results. For maximum image fidelity, you need to expose correctly.
Additionally, it is important that you spend some time post processing your images to achieve optimal results. Again, it is difficult to assess an image's acutance, focus, etc. when it is underexposed. Take your Blackcap (?) for instance (the exif information is missing). When I opened the image in my browser, it was clear from the histogram that the image was between 2/3rds to almost a stop underexposed. I didn't do much to the image other than opening the exposure, setting the white/black points, and adding a bit of contrast. That alone improved the image significantly (see below). When I looked at the pheasant image (exif missing), it was apparent that you had sacrificed the whites (namely the ring around the neck and beak), they were blown in the .jpg and the detail was largely unrecoverable (maybe it can be done in the original RAW?). Nonetheless, I did some basic tonal adjustments, and likewise the image has improved. An image such as this would require a bit more effort than I applied and would benefit from dodging/burning and other adjustments. I should note, the downloaded image appears sharper than the one displayed on the site for whatever reason and you may want to add some additional sharpening for the intended output.
Without knowing the degree of crop applied to these two images, and other factors, they seem reasonably representative of what one can expect out of the 800 PF in terms of color, contrast, sharpness, etc. Hope this helps.
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