How do you get two birds in focus at one time?

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Cropping also reduces depth of field some, but sometimes you can't get closer. The other ideas given are all good. Compositing isn't super hard in photoshop with the newer subject detection tools. Takes some following directions.

To add on, to my eye the whites in the body are overexposed, possibly blown. You might see if you can pull them down a little if possible.
Bill, Can you explain your comment, ”Cropping also reduces depth of field some,…” I don’t understand how that works.
 
Bill, Can you explain your comment, ”Cropping also reduces depth of field some,…” I don’t understand how that works.

The assumption is we are going to view the cropped image at the same size as the uncropped. Meaning everything in the cropped version, including the blur, will be magnified. Check out a DOF calculator and keep all settings the same except switch from full frame to crop camera.

It's kind of like how we can't tell the Genie we wish for more wishes. For example we can't take a macro shot from further away because it has better DOF hoping to crop later to make the flower bigger in the frame.
 
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Thank you! I do have my camera programed for the single point focus. It makes sense to use it in that situation. Thank you again.

This is sometimes confusing when they say "single point focus." Even though they say single point, the whole plane parallel to the sensor at that distance from the sensor should be in sharp focus, not just that one point. Of course lens makers can't get it perfect but that is the goal. Everything parallel to the sensor the same distance as that single point is in focus. So if you were straight on the birds so they were both pretty parallel to the sensor, then single point focus on one bird would have the other one be on the same plane of sharp focus.

Since you were angled, if you imagine a plane projecting out from the sensor parallel to the sensor at the focus distance of the closer bird, that puts the second bird behind the plane of sharp focus. If you move right you hit a spot where both birds lie on that same plane.
 
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Yes, I appreciate the advice on this site. I do have another question. If I am able to get the birds on the same plane. Should I leave the bird detection on? The camera seems to focus on one eye.
As Dan posted above, the camera can only focus to one distance regardless of how many subjects are in the frame no matter how sophisticated the AF system. If you can arrange the scene (position yourself) so the distance to one subject is the same or very close to the distance to the other subject(s) then you can get both in decent if not perfect focus. So yes, leaving Bird subject detection enabled is usually the best bet but that will still just detect one of the birds and hopefully others are pretty much the same distance from the camera.

Depth of Field (DoF) is determined by the aperture you set for your lens (f/stop) and as you stop down you increase the range of distances that will appear sharp in the image so by stopping down the lens one or a couple of stops if the light allows you get more margin for multiple subjects that aren't exactly the same distance from your camera but there's only so far you can practically take this. IOW, two Swallows on a fence with only a few inches distance difference between the the eye of one and the eye of the other is usually manageable especially if you reposition slightly so you're more perpendicular to the fence (keeping the distance closer to the same). But a couple or many subjects at greatly different distances when shot with long focal length lenses (relatively high magnification) or in macro situations (very high magnification by working so close) is tough and often stopping down a few stops still doesn't bring enough DoF to keep everything sharp. There are advanced techniques like focus stacking where multiple images each focused individually are combined to create one sharp image can be used but those are tougher situations.

Bottom line, when shooting wildlife with long focal length lenses things get tougher as you include more subjects assuming you want to keep all of their eyes sharp. When light allows, a bit of stopping down to increase DoF can help and setting up your shot so more or all of your subjects are at or very close to the same distance can help a ton but of course that's not always possible.
 
I love this image! The composition colors and details of these Barn Swallows are wonderful!. Thank you for your suggestion! I will try it!
Thanks Kathy, I would not be too worried with these two at this state; usually I would wait until the lover birds get going to take pictures.

Enjoy & have fun.

Oliver

CAP01723SwallowsInLove.jpg
 
Example of decreased aperture resulting in increased depth of field:
  • focal length = 500 mm
  • camera–subject distance = 12 metres
  • aperture = f/7.1
  • depth of field = 230 mm

My quick fix to include multiple birds in focus is to decrease the lens's aperture.

… David

Welcome Swallows
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Welcome Swallows
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This image is of two Tree Swallows courting. I would like to know how to get both birds in focus at one time. I have a Nikon Z9 with the 180 - 600mm Z lens on it. The camera is new to me. I have used Steve Perry's wildlife set up. I seem to photograph small birds so the crop is big. I shoot in raw and did use Lightroom to adjust and denoise. Thank you for your help.View attachment 85127
Strange, from here it looks like both birds on the same surface (Z axis), but the camera position looks a bit not in parallel with the fence... maybe that's the reason.. you can also see it by the line of the fence ... you where on the left side with angle to the fence (rather than 90)....
 
This is sometimes confusing when they say "single point focus." Even though they say single point, the whole plane parallel to the sensor at that distance from the sensor should be in sharp focus, not just that one point. Of course lens makers can't get it perfect but that is the goal. Everything parallel to the sensor the same distance as that single point is in focus. So if you were straight on the birds so they were both pretty parallel to the sensor, then single point focus on one bird would have the other one be on the same plane of sharp focus.

Since you were angled, if you imagine a plane projecting out from the sensor parallel to the sensor at the focus distance of the closer bird, that puts the second bird behind the plane of sharp focus. If you move right you hit a spot where both birds lie on that same plane.
Thank you for this detailed explanation!
 
As Dan posted above, the camera can only focus to one distance regardless of how many subjects are in the frame no matter how sophisticated the AF system. If you can arrange the scene (position yourself) so the distance to one subject is the same or very close to the distance to the other subject(s) then you can get both in decent if not perfect focus. So yes, leaving Bird subject detection enabled is usually the best bet but that will still just detect one of the birds and hopefully others are pretty much the same distance from the camera.

Depth of Field (DoF) is determined by the aperture you set for your lens (f/stop) and as you stop down you increase the range of distances that will appear sharp in the image so by stopping down the lens one or a couple of stops if the light allows you get more margin for multiple subjects that aren't exactly the same distance from your camera but there's only so far you can practically take this. IOW, two Swallows on a fence with only a few inches distance difference between the the eye of one and the eye of the other is usually manageable especially if you reposition slightly so you're more perpendicular to the fence (keeping the distance closer to the same). But a couple or many subjects at greatly different distances when shot with long focal length lenses (relatively high magnification) or in macro situations (very high magnification by working so close) is tough and often stopping down a few stops still doesn't bring enough DoF to keep everything sharp. There are advanced techniques like focus stacking where multiple images each focused individually are combined to create one sharp image can be used but those are tougher situations.

Bottom line, when shooting wildlife with long focal length lenses things get tougher as you include more subjects assuming you want to keep all of their eyes sharp. When light allows, a bit of stopping down to increase DoF can help and setting up your shot so more or all of your subjects are at or very close to the same distance can help a ton but of course that's not always possible.
Thank you, this is very helpful!
 
Example of decreased aperture resulting in increased depth of field:
  • focal length = 500 mm
  • camera–subject distance = 12 metres
  • aperture = f/7.1
  • depth of field = 230 mm

My quick fix to include multiple birds in focus is to decrease the lens's aperture.

… David

View attachment 85381

View attachment 85380
Thank you for the examples! These images are stunning! I especially like that you captured the birds interacting with each other.
 
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