How to use Group Area AF properly

[joe43]

Concerning my Purple Martin shot, I use AF-ON the way Steve recommends--just to focus. And the Focus mode button was set to Group AF as felt that having the closest birds in focus was more important. The PV button was set to D 9 or D 25 for the fly in. Most other times I set it to Single Point like Steve does.

Attached is another image from the same shoot. Focus mode was set to D 9. D810, 70-200mm f2.8, f 5.6, 1/800, ISO 3600. I probably should have set Group AF.

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[DRwyoming]

Some seem to suggest this does not work, but it does. I use it always.

I don't know if you're referring to my post on the topic but just to be clear, what you describe absolutely can and does work and it seems to work quite well for your shooting style.

But if I understand your post correctly there's one thing it can't do very well which is to leave the camera in AF-C mode (Continuous tracking servo) and then shift the camera to place one of the limited focus points on the eye of the subject, focus on that eye, release the independent focus activation button and then shift the camera for the composition you're after. If you leave AF-ON associated with the shutter release button AND you leave the camera in AF-C mode to be ready for a change to fast action AND you don't use a Focus Lock button then when you shift the camera back for best composition the focus will change. Many folks may not do that kind of focus and recompose or they use their cameras in AF-S mode or they do use a Focus Lock button. For anyone that uses those latter kinds of workflows in the field your method has no downsides and will work fine.

But for folks that do utilize focus and recompose and also want to leave their cameras in AF-C mode for lightning fast transitions to action sequences and don't use an AF-Lock button then decoupling focus functions and shutter release functions is very handy. Where this really shines is for handling both static and action subjects in cameras where the focus points don't provide coverage over most to all of the viewfinder. If the focus points spanned most of the viewfinder like in a D500 or the Z6 and Z7 then this kind of focus and recompose recompose isn't all that necessary since it's much easier to select a focus point right where you want it in a composition but for shooting something like the D850, D5, D6 or similar it can be very handy. It can also be handy shooting in lower light where you want to leave one of the more sensitive centered focus points ready to go for action but before the subject jumps into action you want to focus and recompose closer to the edge of a frame.

Anyway I don't think anyone is saying the method you proposed can't or doesn't work, it certainly can and does work as you've no doubt proven with your images. But for some field shooting styles it may be limited, particularly for the focus and recompose style with the camera left in AF-C mode.

Sorry if my post implied there's something wrong with your approach as of course there are many ways to set this stuff up to support your preferred shooting styles and your method is perfectly valid. Personally I do like the option of focus and recompose while leaving my camera in AF-C mode so that I'm instantly ready for action without taking my eye from the viewfinder but lot's of ways to match personal preferences with these modern cameras. and they're all legitimate.

 

[gordon_g]

FWIW, I've played with a bunch of custom control options in terms of AF modes, metering, etc. Currently I'm set to AF ON (current camera selected mode) on the back panel AF ON button and AF-ON + Area with Single Point for the PV button. The way I look at it a lot of Single Point shots are slower moving or more static portraits and I have a bit of time to focus precisely. But when action explodes I find it faster and more intuitive to hit that AF-ON button with my thumb on the back of the camera.

So I like having the faster action oriented AF mode accessible with my thumb for quick responses but whether that's set to Group, D25 (or D9 in supporting cameras) or even sometimes set back to Single Point depends on what I'm shooting. I'll sometimes set the main camera mode to Single Point which is mostly for portrait mode shooting on my D5 where it's not convenient to hit the PV button while shooting verticals.

Anyway, many ways to skin this cat but I like having the more action oriented focus modes accessible with my thumb and the more careful and precise modes on the PV button. YMMV

This is a great point!

 

[markymark]

Awesome The more I think about it, the more I think that the topic would make a good video

Do I get a credit for starting the thread!…

 

[LL4D500]

I don't know if you're referring to my post on the topic but just to be clear, what you describe absolutely can and does work and it seems to work quite well for your shooting style.

But if I understand your post correctly there's one thing it can't do very well which is to leave the camera in AF-C mode (Continuous tracking servo) and then shift the camera to place one of the limited focus points on the eye of the subject, focus on that eye, release the independent focus activation button and then shift the camera for the composition you're after. If you leave AF-ON associated with the shutter release button AND you leave the camera in AF-C mode to be ready for a change to fast action AND you don't use a Focus Lock button then when you shift the camera back for best composition the focus will change. Many folks may not do that kind of focus and recompose or they use their cameras in AF-S mode or they do use a Focus Lock button. For anyone that uses those latter kinds of workflows in the field your method has no downsides and will work fine.

But for folks that do utilize focus and recompose and also want to leave their cameras in AF-C mode for lightning fast transitions to action sequences and don't use an AF-Lock button then decoupling focus functions and shutter release functions is very handy. Where this really shines is for handling both static and action subjects in cameras where the focus points don't provide coverage over most to all of the viewfinder. If the focus points spanned most of the viewfinder like in a D500 or the Z6 and Z7 then this kind of focus and recompose recompose isn't all that necessary since it's much easier to select a focus point right where you want it in a composition but for shooting something like the D850, D5, D6 or similar it can be very handy. It can also be handy shooting in lower light where you want to leave one of the more sensitive centered focus points ready to go for action but before the subject jumps into action you want to focus and recompose closer to the edge of a frame.

Anyway I don't think anyone is saying the method you proposed can't or doesn't work, it certainly can and does work as you've no doubt proven with your images. But for some field shooting styles it may be limited, particularly for the focus and recompose style with the camera left in AF-C mode.

Sorry if my post implied there's something wrong with your approach as of course there are many ways to set this stuff up to support your preferred shooting styles and your method is perfectly valid. Personally I do like the option of focus and recompose while leaving my camera in AF-C mode so that I'm instantly ready for action without taking my eye from the viewfinder but lot's of ways to match personal preferences with these modern cameras. and they're all legitimate.

Appreciate your response and detail! I must not have explained it very well, as I use the four boxes as a guide when an eagle is approaching (have camera AF set to GrP) and when I get on the bird, I press/hold the BBAF and it immediately switches to "single point" and I stay on the bird and try to get on their eye. If I lose contact, I can, release the BBAF and go back to using the four boxes as a guide and then back to BBAF to re-connect the Single Point - don't know that I have ever done that, as once I locked on to Single Point, I don't think I have ever lost my focus point. If necessary, the other option would be to press my FN1 button (which is programmed as GrP while still pushing the BBAF button, the four boxes will light up and track the subject, as long as I continue to hold the button. If I re-connect on the bird, I can release the Fn1 button and release/press the BBAF and be back on Single. Thanks for clarifying, as I spent about 2 hours in the back yard the other night trying to figure out how to do what I wanted to do and still have BBAF activated.
Still not sure I am explaining this very well, but with your and Steve's posts, plus my 2 hour back yard excursion, it appears to do what I want it to do. Thanks again!

 

[DRwyoming]

I must not explained it very well...

I think the error was on my part. I didn't scroll back through the posts and thought I was responding to the poster that suggested keeping AF activation on the shutter release.

Sorry about that. I think your method is great and your explanation of how to apply it makes a lot of sense!

 

[LL4D500]

I think the error was on my part. I didn't scroll back through the posts and thought I was responding to the poster that suggested keeping AF activation on the shutter release.

Sorry about that. I think your method is great and your explanation of how to apply it makes a lot of sense!

Thanks, BUT, WHOOPS! I just went out on the deck and tried it AND I said one thing wrong above! If I Press/Hold my FN1 buttn (GrP), the four boxes are activated, but I can only take a focused picture, using GrP, if I then press the shutter release. Once I push/hold the BBAF (AF-ON), it reverts back to Single. If I think about it, that is fine, as I go from using the four boxes as a guide, to activating the AF-ON button and being at Single Point, if I "loose" my focus point I can either try to recapture it with the Single - press/hold my AF-ON. If I have trouble doing that, I can change my AF-ON to GrP, or something else, other than Single. My other option, with the way I have my camera set (as outlined above) is to release the AF-ON, press/hold the FN1 (which is set to GrP) and press the shutter release. Think that worked, based on the pictures I just took. Hope I haven't confused everyone! If nothing else, this exercise has increased my understanding of the AF options and how they work! PHEW

 

[Replytoken]

Great advice above. I'd also add this:

Keep in mind that there is a lot of overlap too. Often you can get the same results with Dynamic or Group - depends on the situation. Where Group really shines is when it's tough to get an initial lock with just the primary AF point in Dynamic or it's tough to keep that lock. The trick with Dynamic is that if the primary point can't get a lock, it will try to lock on with another point in the dynamic area. Depending on how large of a dynamic area you're using, this can turn into a problem if it's really grabbing the wrong part of the target tor the wrong target altogether. In addition, if the primary point loses the lock, it'll try to use one of the other points in the Dynamic area to keep on that same part of the target, however, sometimes it grabs the wrong thing. Dynamic works best when you can mostly keep the primary AF point where you want it and just need some standby help from the other AF points in the Dynamic area for when you slip off.

Group on the other hand simply tries to grab whatever is closest to the camera (assuming good contrast). This makes it ideal for those times when keeping the primary Dynamic point on target is difficult or impossible. For me, the tougher the subject, the more likely I'll be using Group - no other AF area is better at latching onto a fast-moving large tin my experience. For easier stuff, I love Dynamic (D9 is a favorite on my D850 and D6). Of course the biggest downside with Group is that you can't be 100% sure which AF point it's going to use, so I generally only turn to it when things are fast and furious in the viewfinder (which is where I like to live )

I moved from using a D300 for about 9 years to a D500 almost 3 years ago (and also added a D750 two years ago) , but have never been able to make peace with the changes to the D500 AF system, especially when shooting BIF. I read the entire 30+ page thread in FM forum that Steve contributed to, but I still never got the hang of Nikon's changes, especially to the Dynamic AF settings. I feel more at home with the D750's AF system, but I bought the D500 for BIF and other action photography. Do you recommend any type of transition path to ease me into a better relationship with my D500's AF system? I have tried almost all of the AF modes over time, but just do not feel like the camera and I are working together in a predictable manner like when I shot with the D300. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

--Ken

 

[Steve]

I moved from using a D300 for about 9 years to a D500 almost 3 years ago (and also added a D750 two years ago) , but have never been able to make peace with the changes to the D500 AF system, especially when shooting BIF. I read the entire 30+ page thread in FM forum that Steve contributed to, but I still never got the hang of Nikon's changes, especially to the Dynamic AF settings. I feel more at home with the D750's AF system, but I bought the D500 for BIF and other action photography. Do you recommend any type of transition path to ease me into a better relationship with my D500's AF system? I have tried almost all of the AF modes over time, but just do not feel like the camera and I are working together in a predictable manner like when I shot with the D300. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

--Ken

If you were just staring with it, it might be easier, but after 3 years I'm not sure what to say. My customary advice is to pick a mode and stick with it for awhile to really get comfortable with the nuances and attributes, but it sounds like you've done that already without success. I guess I'd need more specific reasons why it doesn't seem to work to move forward. Is your keeper rate lower or is it something with the overall functionality?

 

[Replytoken]

If you were just staring with it, it might be easier, but after 3 years I'm not sure what to say. My customary advice is to pick a mode and stick with it for awhile to really get comfortable with the nuances and attributes, but it sounds like you've done that already without success. I guess I'd need more specific reasons why it doesn't seem to work to move forward. Is your keeper rate lower or is it something with the overall functionality?

Thanks for the reply, Steve. Part of the time issue is that much of my BIF is seasonal, and I also use other equipment for other subjects, so the D500 is not my "daily driver" like my D300 was. I will take your advice and try to stick with one setting as much as I can to see if that makes a difference. What I have found most frustrating is when a subject goes off of the center AF point in Dynamic AF. As you discussed in the FM thread, the surrounding points do not really act like as I would expect them (or perhaps should I say "want them to") act. I could just use Group AF, but that sometimes means that wings or other parts of a bird are catching focus rather than the head/eyes. Ideally, I would love to just use a single point, but I do not believe that my tracking skills would allow me to do that with a reasonable keeper rate.

I realize that there is no substitute for practice and "muscle memory", but picking and sticking with one AF mode to try and get me on, and keep me on, that path with the D500 has been frustrating. These days I am mostly photographing larger birds like eagles, swans and geese with either the 200-500 or a 300 f/4 AF-S. Backgrounds vary from open sky to wooded river banks. If you had to primarily pick one mode for these situations, would you suggest Group, Dynamic or single point as a "training tool" to re-develop my muscle memory and better adapt it to the D500?

--Ken

 

[LL4D500]

I moved from using a D300 for about 9 years to a D500 almost 3 years ago (and also added a D750 two years ago) , but have never been able to make peace with the changes to the D500 AF system, especially when shooting BIF. I read the entire 30+ page thread in FM forum that Steve contributed to, but I still never got the hang of Nikon's changes, especially to the Dynamic AF settings. I feel more at home with the D750's AF system, but I bought the D500 for BIF and other action photography. Do you recommend any type of transition path to ease me into a better relationship with my D500's AF system? I have tried almost all of the AF modes over time, but just do not feel like the camera and I are working together in a predictable manner like when I shot with the D300. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated?

--Ken

I just got my D500 a few months ago, along with purchasing Steve's BIF, AF and Exposure books - they are great! I just followed the steps (very easy) that Steve has in the first two books or his video on BBAF - extremely simple (watching/pausing the video or reading the book with the pictures, it took me less than one minute) and experimented/expanded from there as I became more comfortable. My Post above may help - think my biggest problem was making it more complicated than it needed to be!

 

[Steve]

Thanks for the reply, Steve. Part of the time issue is that much of my BIF is seasonal, and I also use other equipment for other subjects, so the D500 is not my "daily driver" like my D300 was. I will take your advice and try to stick with one setting as much as I can to see if that makes a difference. What I have found most frustrating is when a subject goes off of the center AF point in Dynamic AF. As you discussed in the FM thread, the surrounding points do not really act like as I would expect them (or perhaps should I say "want them to") act. I could just use Group AF, but that sometimes means that wings or other parts of a bird are catching focus rather than the head/eyes. Ideally, I would love to just use a single point, but I do not believe that my tracking skills would allow me to do that with a reasonable keeper rate.

I realize that there is no substitute for practice and "muscle memory", but picking and sticking with one AF mode to try and get me on, and keep me on, that path with the D500 has been frustrating. These days I am mostly photographing larger birds like eagles, swans and geese with either the 200-500 or a 300 f/4 AF-S. Backgrounds vary from open sky to wooded river banks. If you had to primarily pick one mode for these situations, would you suggest Group, Dynamic or single point as a "training tool" to re-develop my muscle memory and better adapt it to the D500?

--Ken

It's tricky when you want to work and learn just one. I would probably recommend Group to start - I think it's the easiest. Getting to really know what it's going to do and how it's going to behave is a huge benefit. As you say, it does run the risk of getting a wing tip instead of a sharp face, however, Dynamic does as well. If the primary point leaves the face, one of the secondary points may grab the wing instead of sticking with the face since they are usually of similar color. Group has treated me really well over the years, however, when I think I can mostly keep a single AF point on target (i.e. the head), I will use Dynamic.

One suggestion is to try to practice on birds that aren't too important to you. Seagulls are a favorite recommendation of mine if you have any handy. Just spend some a day or two shooting them with Dynamic, another using Group and sort of get to know the AF areas. I think it'll help.

 

[Replytoken]

I just got my D500 a few months ago, along with purchasing Steve's BIF, AF and Exposure books - they are great! I just followed the steps (very easy) that Steve has in the first two books or his video on BBAF - extremely simple (watching/pausing the video or reading the book with the pictures, it took me less than one minute) and experimented/expanded from there as I became more comfortable. My Post above may help - think my biggest problem was making it more complicated than it needed to be!

After reading the FM thread and watching Steve's videos, I was going to buy the books, but did not know what they might contain that I had not already covered. Its not that it is complicated, as I spent many years working with my D300 shooting sports. Its just that Nikon changed the behavior of the Dynamic mode and we are just not clicking (pardon the pun).

--Ken

 

[Replytoken]

It's tricky when you want to work and learn just one. I would probably recommend Group to start - I think it's the easiest. Getting to really know what it's going to do and how it's going to behave is a huge benefit. As you say, it does run the risk of getting a wing tip instead of a sharp face, however, Dynamic does as well. If the primary point leaves the face, one of the secondary points may grab the wing instead of sticking with the face since they are usually of similar color. Group has treated me really well over the years, however, when I think I can mostly keep a single AF point on target (i.e. the head), I will use Dynamic.

One suggestion is to try to practice on birds that aren't too important to you. Seagulls are a favorite recommendation of mine if you have any handy. Just spend some a day or two shooting them with Dynamic, another using Group and sort of get to know the AF areas. I think it'll help.

That was kind of what I was doing (trying to just use only one mode on an outing), but I was not able to get a lock on the issues afterwards. I am happy to try again, and we do have a lot of birds visit our backyard feeders, plants and trees. Perhaps the hummingbirds will make a good practice subject? Or not! We have plenty of choices that do not seem to move at the speed of light, as several of our hummers were doing yesterday while dive bombing a pair of flickers on our roof.

Thanks,

--Ken

 

[Steve]

That was kind of what I was doing (trying to just use only one mode on an outing), but I was not able to get a lock on the issues afterwards. I am happy to try again, and we do have a lot of birds visit our backyard feeders, plants and trees. Perhaps the hummingbirds will make a good practice subject? Or not! We have plenty of choices that do not seem to move at the speed of light, as several of our hummers were doing yesterday while dive bombing a pair of flickers on our roof.

Thanks,

--Ken

Hummingbirds are OK when they are hovering and a good target for Dynamic (although I often shoot them in single). They are one of those subjects that if they are more or less stationary they aren't as hard as people think, but when they are shooting across the years, forget it LOL! Still, it might be good practice.

 

[Replytoken]

Hummingbirds are OK when they are hovering and a good target for Dynamic (although I often shoot them in single). They are one of those subjects that if they are more or less stationary they aren't as hard as people think, but when they are shooting across the years, forget it LOL! Still, it might be good practice.

We have resident hummers that live here in the PNW all year so my wife and I make sure there is a feeder available all winter for them. And yes, when they are resting, they are an easy target. When moving, especially like they were yesterday doing high speed verticals, its better to just put the camera down and enjoy the show. Given COVID, I suspect that backyard practice is looking even more appealing this fall and winter. Hoping for success, or at least a bit of clarity about what is not working at a minimum.

Do your AF books go into more detail than your past videos and the various threads here and at FM? If so, I would be happy to do some reading. I just never know with guides what level of understanding they are written for. I am reasonably familiar with the various CAM modules that Nikon has used over the years, and how they are designed to work, but I would always be open to practical "unwritten" tips and suggestions that are not often covered.

--Ken

 

[Steve]

We have resident hummers that live here in the PNW all year so my wife and I make sure there is a feeder available all winter for them. And yes, when they are resting, they are an easy target. When moving, especially like they were yesterday doing high speed verticals, its better to just put the camera down and enjoy the show. Given COVID, I suspect that backyard practice is looking even more appealing this fall and winter. Hoping for success, or at least a bit of clarity about what is not working at a minimum.

Do your AF books go into more detail than your past videos and the various threads here and at FM? If so, I would be happy to do some reading. I just never know with guides what level of understanding they are written for. I am reasonably familiar with the various CAM modules that Nikon has used over the years, and how they are designed to work, but I would always be open to practical "unwritten" tips and suggestions that are not often covered.

--Ken

Thanks for your interest.
Yes, the go into a lot more detail than the stuff I've made available to the public. Some of it is basic, but it does get deep into the complex stuff too.

Put it this way - I put everything I know about AF in that book, I don't hold anything back When I pick up a new trick or technique, it's added in the next update.

 

[gaknott]

We have resident hummers that live here in the PNW all year so my wife and I make sure there is a feeder available all winter for them. And yes, when they are resting, they are an easy target. When moving, especially like they were yesterday doing high speed verticals, its better to just put the camera down and enjoy the show. Given COVID, I suspect that backyard practice is looking even more appealing this fall and winter. Hoping for success, or at least a bit of clarity about what is not working at a minimum.

Do your AF books go into more detail than your past videos and the various threads here and at FM? If so, I would be happy to do some reading. I just never know with guides what level of understanding they are written for. I am reasonably familiar with the various CAM modules that Nikon has used over the years, and how they are designed to work, but I would always be open to practical "unwritten" tips and suggestions that are not often covered.

--Ken

Ken, I have purchased Steve’s books and they do have great detail, yet very understandable. He speaks in layman’s terms very well. I totally recommend buying them.

 

[Replytoken]

Ken, I have purchased Steve’s books and they do have great detail, yet very understandable. He speaks in layman’s terms very well. I totally recommend buying them.

All of Steve's videos that I have watched have been great, so I would expect the same from his books (no pressure there, Steve). I just wanted to make sure that they were geared to my level before buying them. When I attend work related conferences, I always find it frustrating when they do not talk about the experience level that sessions are aimed at, and then find out that almost all of them are targeted to folks who are brand new to the job. I don't mind attending once or twice, but after that, it is not useful. I suspected that Steve's books, and Thom Hogan's for that matter, would be a bit more involved, but it is always good to check.

--Ken

 

[LL4D500]

After reading the FM thread and watching Steve's videos, I was going to buy the books, but did not know what they might contain that I had not already covered. Its not that it is complicated, as I spent many years working with my D300 shooting sports. Its just that Nikon changed the behavior of the Dynamic mode and we are just not clicking (pardonthe pun).

--Ken

There is so much contained in those three books! I found it to be very easy to understand with pictures and Steve's ability to explain/demonstrate things without getting so complicated or lost in the details. I get excited every time I spend an hour or two (all my brain can absorb) and always come up with a couple of great ideas or Wow - I didn't know that! I have learned a lot. I printed out the Table of Contents and make notes on that for "key points" or specific pages I want to refer back to.
I started with a Canon Ftb and a Canon A-1 in 1972. Have had a Nikon 7000 for the last ten years and purchased my my D500 18 months ago. Actually have 2 - D500's - one with my 16-80 and one with my 80-400. Love being able to have an SKB case and both cameras with me. One for pictures of 2 Sons and grandchildren in boat and one for Eagles and Loons on the lake without having to switch lenses. Thought about getting an 850, instead of second D500, but decided to wait until they come out with a Z body that is comparable to the 850/500 when it comes to AF speed and AF tracking. Then I'll have to get the 24-70 S lens for the Z body and decide whether to get the ATZ adaptor for my 70-200 F2.8 or trade that lens for the 70-200 F2.8 S for the Z.

 

[markymark]

Great advice above. I'd also add this:

Keep in mind that there is a lot of overlap too. Often you can get the same results with Dynamic or Group - depends on the situation. Where Group really shines is when it's tough to get an initial lock with just the primary AF point in Dynamic or it's tough to keep that lock. The trick with Dynamic is that if the primary point can't get a lock, it will try to lock on with another point in the dynamic area. Depending on how large of a dynamic area you're using, this can turn into a problem if it's really grabbing the wrong part of the target tor the wrong target altogether. In addition, if the primary point loses the lock, it'll try to use one of the other points in the Dynamic area to keep on that same part of the target, however, sometimes it grabs the wrong thing. Dynamic works best when you can mostly keep the primary AF point where you want it and just need some standby help from the other AF points in the Dynamic area for when you slip off.

Group on the other hand simply tries to grab whatever is closest to the camera (assuming good contrast). This makes it ideal for those times when keeping the primary Dynamic point on target is difficult or impossible. For me, the tougher the subject, the more likely I'll be using Group - no other AF area is better at latching onto a fast-moving large tin my experience. For easier stuff, I love Dynamic (D9 is a favorite on my D850 and D6). Of course the biggest downside with Group is that you can't be 100% sure which AF point it's going to use, so I generally only turn to it when things are fast and furious in the viewfinder (which is where I like to live )

Thanks Steve.
Purchased your ebook on the Nikon AF system the other day & am currently working through that.
Have you done a video on composition by any chance?

 

[Steve]

Thanks Steve.
Purchased your ebook on the Nikon AF system the other day & am currently working through that.
Have you done a video on composition by any chance?

Thanks - no video on composition per se. This one talks about it though.

Wildlife Photography Presentation – My Best Techniques

 

[markymark]

Great advice above. I'd also add this:

Keep in mind that there is a lot of overlap too. Often you can get the same results with Dynamic or Group - depends on the situation. Where Group really shines is when it's tough to get an initial lock with just the primary AF point in Dynamic or it's tough to keep that lock. The trick with Dynamic is that if the primary point can't get a lock, it will try to lock on with another point in the dynamic area. Depending on how large of a dynamic area you're using, this can turn into a problem if it's really grabbing the wrong part of the target tor the wrong target altogether. In addition, if the primary point loses the lock, it'll try to use one of the other points in the Dynamic area to keep on that same part of the target, however, sometimes it grabs the wrong thing. Dynamic works best when you can mostly keep the primary AF point where you want it and just need some standby help from the other AF points in the Dynamic area for when you slip off.

Group on the other hand simply tries to grab whatever is closest to the camera (assuming good contrast). This makes it ideal for those times when keeping the primary Dynamic point on target is difficult or impossible. For me, the tougher the subject, the more likely I'll be using Group - no other AF area is better at latching onto a fast-moving large tin my experience. For easier stuff, I love Dynamic (D9 is a favorite on my D850 and D6). Of course the biggest downside with Group is that you can't be 100% sure which AF point it's going to use, so I generally only turn to it when things are fast and furious in the viewfinder (which is where I like to live )

Steve. If you were trying to take a shot of a bird flying or diving into water would you use Group Area AF or one of the Dynamic Area modes?

 

[Steve]

Steve. If you were trying to take a shot of a bird flying or diving into water would you use Group Area AF or one of the Dynamic Area modes?

There's a lot of overlap - it can work either way. However, I think dynamic can give you a slight advantage if you can keep the primary point on the bird - it's less likely to front focus at the last second due to a wave. However, the dive is so fast that I'm not sure the AF system can actually refocus on the water fast enough to be a problem in Group.

 

[markymark]

Thanks.