I'm thinking about getting an OM-1. For my purposes I'd want a lens roughly equivalent to 70-300mm or 100-400mm, but I find the assortment of lenses out there confusing. What do Olympus users recommend in those focal length ranges?
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The Olympus 40-150 f/2.8 (80-300 equivalent) may be my favorite m43 lens. It's *really* sharp, and takes both 1.4x and 2x PCs very well. (which gets you to 600mm equivalent, though at f/5.6). I some times are carry just it and a wide zoom and feel covered.I'm thinking about getting an OM-1. For my purposes I'd want a lens roughly equivalent to 70-300mm or 100-400mm, but I find the assortment of lenses out there confusing. What do Olympus users recommend in those focal length ranges?
You should try it in your copious spare timeThat's why I never tried M4/3. Subject separation is often tough enough on a full frame camera, adding another couple of stops more DOF makes me shudder. Although, that 150-400 is sure tempting.
The Olympus 40-150 f/2.8 (80-300 equivalent) may be my favorite m43 lens. It's *really* sharp, and takes both 1.4x and 2x PCs very well. (which gets you to 600mm equivalent, though at f/5.6). I some times are carry just it and a wide zoom and feel covered.
There's a Panasonic/Leica 50-200 (100-400 equiv) that gets good reviews but I haven't shot it.
I'm thinking about getting an OM-1. For my purposes I'd want a lens roughly equivalent to 70-300mm or 100-400mm, but I find the assortment of lenses out there confusing. What do Olympus users recommend in those focal length ranges?
I really looked at Olympus in 2018 before I upgraded some Nikon gear. Frankly there is a lot to like. I was also worried about the subject separation and in the end I did not buy Olympus. I will say unless you are going to invest into the full frame systems big 400-600 primes I doubt you would see a difference when using full frame with the new super tele zooms. When you are at f6.3 for example or even possibly f5.6 vs a similar or more powerful focal length in m4/3 with a faster f stop I would bet they are awfully close. You can also use a tele and not have as big of an ISO impact as when shooting FF with a super zoom. You will get smaller and less expensive gear so it starts to make a lot of sense.
If I get to a point that I don't want to lug around heavier gear anymore I could sure see a switch or a second system.
Some of the factors to consider when comparing the M4/3 and DX systems
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Micro Four Thirds vs APS-C As Someone Who Uses Both
photographylife.com
and photographers seriously comparing the options should find this article on equivalence not only interesting but insightful. Recently updated bug tye original dates back to the era of the Nikon D4s and D7000, when Nikon's 1 System was still vibrant
Be sure to scroll down to the cartoon!
Some of the factors to consider when comparing the M4/3 and DX systems
![]()
Micro Four Thirds vs APS-C As Someone Who Uses Both
photographylife.com
Thank you for the reply... I'm not familiar with OM workspace (the last time I shot Olympus was film days, lol) Do you use that for cataloging your library of images also, or do you still do that in LR?... Could you be specific as to why you prefer to go through OM workspace first? Is it just personal preference or are there functionality concerns?... I ask because I have a work flow I like to follow and hate the idea of changing things up all at once...Adobe should update LR for the OM-1. It works but I find it better to run through OM Workspace with Noise Ai first for high iso images ( from 3200 ), then export as a 16bit Tiff and finish off my editing in LR.
I think I read in an article somewhere that the Olympus files didn't play well with Adobe LR/Photoshop. I find that hard to believe, and I was waiting for an appointment at the time and can't find where I read that to confirm. Has anyone here experienced this? Do the files download and edit fine in Adobe editing software? What about Topaz, Luminar, or DXO?
Can't speak to the OM-1, but LR, Photoshop, Topaz, etc have all worked fine on OM-D M1 files. But I import raw files into LR (which is using Camera Raw in the background) and go from there, and LR generates tifs or psds as intermediates. No problems. I prefer Adobe's Nikon profiles, but it's easy enough to change.I think I read in an article somewhere that the Olympus files didn't play well with Adobe LR/Photoshop. I find that hard to believe, and I was waiting for an appointment at the time and can't find where I read that to confirm. Has anyone here experienced this? Do the files download and edit fine in Adobe editing software? What about Topaz, Luminar, or DXO?
Thank you for the reply... I'm not familiar with OM workspace (the last time I shot Olympus was film days, lol) Do you use that for cataloging your library of images also, or do you still do that in LR?... Could you be specific as to why you prefer to go through OM workspace first? Is it just personal preference or are there functionality concerns?... I ask because I have a work flow I like to follow and hate the idea of changing things up all at once...
(Been lurking for a while, finally joined…)
I am also considering the OM-1. Currently using Nikon D500, primarily with the 200-500 for a birding lens. I hike and hand-hold and the weight of that Nikon combo is too much for my shoulders these days. MFT looks like a good way to significantly reduce weight (and still retain a zoom).
This thread has been helpful to me already. But I’m trying to understand the viewfinder specs, especially the size. Specs say 1.65x (0.82x 35 mm). Does that translate to a viewfinder size of 28.5 by 21.5 mm (1.65 times (17.3 by 13 mm sensor))? Anyone have experience with the OM-1 viewfinder compared to D500 (my local stores do not have OM-1 in stock)? I have never used an EVF, so a little apprehensive, but guessing current ones are fairly nice.
Thanks for any input.
As you have and use both, I would be interested if you can expand on what are the scenarios for BIF where you would clearly use one vs the other? Many thanks!Yup, I’ve been using it. Doing side by side with my A1.
1) OM has MUCH better focus acquisition. It’s instant.
2) EVF is better for following, A1 feels floaty, even though it has a higher refresh rate
3) Shutter lag is non existent, noticeably better than the A1
As you have and use both, I would be interested if you can expand on what are the scenarios for BIF where you would clearly use one vs the other? Many thanks!