Is anyone exploring the Olympus OM-1 for birds and wildlife?

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Close up the OM-1
Tracking from a distance A1

I can get the shot with either by using work arounds but if I had to simply point and shoot, that would be the choice.

The A1 has 50MP which I don’t care about as I don’t crop as much, but that could be a dealbreaker for some.

It has better high ISO performance but I use a PL200 f2.8 which wipes out that advantage out until I go to a 400 f2,8. Which is much more expensive and isn’t anywhere near as handholdable ( I don’t use tripods, but that again ) ISO 12800 is completely usable on the OM where with a 100-400GM, I’ll be using ISO 51200 in the same situation, which for my personal is unusable.

Can’t go wrong with either at the end of the day. They both have their place, but if I was buying new today, with the experience I’ve had with both cameras. OM-1 would be my choice.


View attachment 34951
ISO 12800 on an OM-1


View attachment 34952PL200 f2.8 next to my Nikkor 500 f4, which it replaced
So helpful, thank you!!! For BIF with busy background, at what distance in metres would you place the cutoff for the OM-1 comparable advantage vs the A1?
When used with the OM-1, would focus acquisition with the 300mm f/2.8 Pro be equally fast you reckon (I am not sure you have used that one in addition to PL 200 f/2.8)?
 
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How would this compare to a FE Sony 400mm f2.8 if you or someone has any experience shooting with both? Thank you!!!

I have never shot the Sony 400mm but have shot exotic teleprimes for Canon and Nikon. In terms of sharpness and detail resolution, I expect it to be a wash. The Olympus 300mm is insanely sharp - no 300mm lens of any other manufacturer even comes close. For similar framing, you will get more detail with the 400mm and A1 thanks to the bigger sensor and more megapixels.

However in real life, you can rarely get a similar framing on a wild bird with a 400mm lens and a lens with a 600mm equivalent reach. So you will have to crop the photo from the A1, which eliminates the noise and detail advantage. You will be able to shoot the 300mm from farther away, and will need the Sony 600mm to get the sensor size and noise advantage again.

More importantly, with the Sony 400mm or 600mm, you're looking at 6lb+ lenses which cost $12,000 or more. The Olympus 300mm weighs less than half as much and costs under $3000 new. Plus, you can find used 300mm Pros in excellent condition around $1600-$1800. As inexpensive as a used Sony 200-600 but better in every respect - brighter, better built, sharper etc.

With the Sony primes you will have to use a tripod much of the time. With the Olympus, you can leave the tripod at home. This may or may not be important to you.

For grouse in flight, you will obviously get a cleaner image with the Sony 400mm f2.8 thanks to the brighter aperture and full frame sensor (unless cropped). However for grouse who are on the ground, it isn't necessarily true. The OIS of the 300mm Pro syncs with the camera body's IBIS to give stabilization that is impossible to achieve in other systems. With good technique, you can easily shoot sharp, handheld photos even with the 2x TC on (1200mm equivalent reach) at f8 and 1/10 sec or 1/5 sec! This takes away the Sony's ISO advantage and would also require setting up a tripod first.

So there are pros and cons, and many photographers use Micro Four Thirds along with a full frame system to get the benefits of both. Also, I am a (serious) hobbyist and you are, I believe, a professional who sells photos to clients. So it also depends on whether your clients want 50 MP files shot with negligible noise. Then again, that difference is often minimal and can be all but eliminated in post processing. Also, with Olympus you'll get the kinds of shots that you probably won't with a different system. All I'll say is, don't knock it till you try it. ;)
 
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And if you could get prefocused on the grouse in the grass with the OM-1 you could nail it all with ProCapture. I really do want to try the OM-1 someday. Certainly has some unique features/advantages over my Sony system.

Truth! Here's a sequence I shot using ProCapture. I was taking pictures of this Olive-sided flycatcher hawking (taking off, catching a bug, landing). I had no hope of tracking him in flight, so I was prefocused on his perch in S-AF mode to shoot the take-off and landing sequences. It was pure luck that this mosquito wandered too close to the perch and I was able to capture the act of predation.

In S-AF mode, ProCapture on older bodies like my E-M1ii shoots at 60 fps (120 fps with the OM-1). The entire sequence from take off to landing was 18 photos, which means that the bird lifted off, caught the mosquito and landed again in less than 1/3 sec!

Katkar-Flycatcher.jpg
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These photos are slightly misfocused since I was using S-AF. Also I was trying to be close to eye-level with the flycatcher which ruined the background. However with a different camera system, I'd have no hope of capturing this moment!
 
I have never shot the Sony 400mm but have shot exotic teleprimes for Canon and Nikon. In terms of sharpness and detail resolution, I expect it to be a wash. The Olympus 300mm is insanely sharp - no 300mm lens of any other manufacturer even comes close. For similar framing, you will get more detail with the 400mm and A1 thanks to the bigger sensor and more megapixels.

However in real life, you can rarely get a similar framing on a wild bird with a 400mm lens and a lens with a 600mm equivalent reach. So you will have to crop the photo from the A1, which eliminates the noise and detail advantage. You will be able to shoot the 300mm from farther away, and will need the Sony 600mm to get the sensor size and noise advantage again.

More importantly, with the Sony 400mm or 600mm, you're looking at 6lb+ lenses which cost $12,000 or more. The Olympus 300mm weighs less than half as much and costs under $3000 new. Plus, you can find used 300mm Pros in excellent condition around $1600-$1800. As inexpensive as a used Sony 200-600 but better in every respect - brighter, better built, sharper etc.

With the Sony primes you will have to use a tripod much of the time. With the Olympus, you can leave the tripod at home. This may or may not be important to you.

For grouse in flight, you will obviously get a cleaner image with the Sony 400mm f2.8 thanks to the brighter aperture and full frame sensor (unless cropped). However for grouse who are on the ground, it isn't necessarily true. The OIS of the 300mm Pro syncs with the camera body's IBIS to give stabilization that is impossible to achieve in other systems. With good technique, you can easily shoot sharp, handheld photos even with the 2x TC on (1200mm equivalent reach) at f8 and 1/10 sec or 1/5 sec! This takes away the Sony's ISO advantage and would also require setting up a tripod first.

So there are pros and cons, and many photographers use Micro Four Thirds along with a full frame system to get the benefits of both. Also, I am a (serious) hobbyist and you are, I believe, a professional who sells photos to clients. So it also depends on whether your clients want 50 MP files shot with negligible noise. Then again, that difference is often minimal and can be all but eliminated in post processing. Also, with Olympus you'll get the kinds of shots that you probably won't with a different system. All I'll say is, don't knock it till you try it. ;)
Extremely helpful and thoughtful, thank you very much. I have updated a bit my current thinking in another thread here.
Stating the obvious perhaps, bottom line seems to be that both OM-1 and A-1 have relative advantages. I want to figure out which one is better for what I want to do though... and it is not easy!!! Ideally you test everything, but in real life it is not possible. So will keep researching and working on taking a reasonably good decision!
 
And if you could get prefocused on the grouse in the grass with the OM-1 you could nail it all with ProCapture. I really do want to try the OM-1 someday. Certainly has some unique features/advantages over my Sony system.
Thank you very much arbitrage! The more I learn about the OM-1 the more I feel it could do a good job for me; ProCapture looks spot on (for what I do). I would love to try one too, but it might not be possible without paying for it...
 
Truth! Here's a sequence I shot using ProCapture. I was taking pictures of this Olive-sided flycatcher hawking (taking off, catching a bug, landing). I had no hope of tracking him in flight, so I was prefocused on his perch in S-AF mode to shoot the take-off and landing sequences. It was pure luck that this mosquito wandered too close to the perch and I was able to capture the act of predation.

In S-AF mode, ProCapture on older bodies like my E-M1ii shoots at 60 fps (120 fps with the OM-1). The entire sequence from take off to landing was 18 photos, which means that the bird lifted off, caught the mosquito and landed again in less than 1/3 sec!

View attachment 34966

These photos are slightly misfocused since I was using S-AF. Also I was trying to be close to eye-level with the flycatcher which ruined the background. However with a different camera system, I'd have no hope of capturing this moment!
Thank you for the example... ProCapture looks really useful
 
One of the rather unique features of the later OM bodies is the ability to set an arbitrary focus limit range on the camera itself, in addition to the limiter switch on the lenses. So if I knew my subject was going to be no closer than 20 meters and that the background was 80 meters I can set that on the body and restrict focusing to that range.

I'm just starting to explore this feature, but it definitely helps in keeping focus from straying to the background, a common problem with most AF systems.
 
One of the rather unique features of the later OM bodies is the ability to set an arbitrary focus limit range on the camera itself, in addition to the limiter switch on the lenses. So if I knew my subject was going to be no closer than 20 meters and that the background was 80 meters I can set that on the body and restrict focusing to that range.

I'm just starting to explore this feature, but it definitely helps in keeping focus from straying to the background, a common problem with most AF systems.
Please keep us updated on your findings, it should be valuable info for the AF system
 
So helpful, thank you!!! For BIF with busy background, at what distance in metres would you place the cutoff for the OM-1 comparable advantage vs the A1?
When used with the OM-1, would focus acquisition with the 300mm f/2.8 Pro be equally fast you reckon (I am not sure you have used that one in addition to PL 200 f/2.8)?

Approximately 5 metres away. Again it’s point and shoot, with the Sony you can set MF to a custom button and you’ll be ok but it will still want to to jump off.
OM1_Swallows_High_ISO (28 of 31).jpg
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This is another area where the OM has a nice advantage, bird goes through foilage the OM will keep up, and if it comes out on the other side, you’re still in focus. This is Bird Ai
OM1_Swallows_High_ISO (17 of 31).jpg
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An example of the close up acquisition I mentioned as an advantage. I was focused on a swallow on my right further out, noticed something happening on my left, swung around point and fired. Grabbed in focus, the A1when shot from this exact position, needed its focus manually pulled back. I don’t consider that a dealbreaker, it’s just always impressive that the OM pulls this off all the time.

The 2 above are uncropped, to give an idea of how close I was. The birds on sticks were 5 metres or slightly less away. The incoming swallow was right onto me, easlily under 4 away.

The Olympus 300 is an f4. There are some advantages of going Olympus instead of PL but I do prefer the rendering on the PL.
 
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Very kind of you to keep taking the time to answer all the questions after doing such thorough testing on top!

Close up the OM-1
Approximately 5 metres away
Apologies, just to clarify, so generally speaking any BIF (even if against busy background) further than 5 meters away, in your experience so far, you would pick the A1 over OM-1 to attempt the shot? Not trying to put you on the spot or anything or particularly defend one vs the other, I am just trying to figure out what would work best for me! And as far as I know, you are the one person lucky enough to own both! Many many thanks in advance

The Olympus 300 is an f4
yes, of course it is, thank you
 
Very kind of you to keep taking the time to answer all the questions after doing such thorough testing on top!



Apologies, just to clarify, so generally speaking any BIF (even if against busy background) further than 5 meters away, in your experience so far, you would pick the A1 over OM-1 to attempt the shot? Not trying to put you on the spot or anything or particularly defend one vs the other, I am just trying to figure out what would work best for me! And as far as I know, you are the one person lucky enough to own both! Many many thanks in advance


yes, of course it is, thank you

I’d choose an A1 for it’s tracking, it is insane. There is nothing on the market that comes close.

I use that option with the A1, I follow the bird til it gets closer or I’ll pull focus back in anticipation if I notice there’s activity at a close up distance.

Its hard to stress just how good both these options are, and that there really isn’t a bad option.

I miss with both cameras but never feel out of control or fighting either system. I will work with their strengths. The bigger question is where and what do you want to do with your photography.

For example, If I wanted a 6004 or 4002,8. It’s Sony

If i wanted ProCap. OM

They’re really good enough that I don’t blame the camera for missing the shot but myself, when working to their strengths. There’s no bad option, just figuring out what ticks the boxes with regards to lens choice and feature set. I personally wouldn’t choose either purely on AF.
 
I’d choose an A1 for it’s tracking, it is insane. There is nothing on the market that comes close.

I use that option with the A1, I follow the bird til it gets closer or I’ll pull focus back in anticipation if I notice there’s activity at a close up distance.

Its hard to stress just how good both these options are, and that there really isn’t a bad option.

I miss with both cameras but never feel out of control or fighting either system. I will work with their strengths. The bigger question is where and what do you want to do with your photography.

For example, If I wanted a 6004 or 4002,8. It’s Sony

If i wanted ProCap. OM

They’re really good enough that I don’t blame the camera for missing the shot but myself, when working to their strengths. There’s no bad option, just figuring out what ticks the boxes with regards to lens choice and feature set. I personally wouldn’t choose either purely on AF.
Thank you again, invaluable info all along from your comparison and experience. I guess I want it all... and that is not possible!
 
Thank you again, invaluable info all along from your comparison and experience. I guess I want it all... and that is not possible!
Sorry further question please, what sort of loss of AF lock speed would you expect by using the 300mm f4 Pro vs the PL 200mm f2.8? You mentioned that you preferred the rendering of the PL, have you also tested the 300mm and could you expand a bit on how they compare to each other in your view?
 
Sorry further question please, what sort of loss of AF lock speed would you expect by using the 300mm f4 Pro vs the PL 200mm f2.8? You mentioned that you preferred the rendering of the PL, have you also tested the 300mm and could you expand a bit on how they compare to each other in your view?

The Olympus 300 does 50fps with Continous AF, with the PL200, I am limited to 25fps.

No idea on any difference in AF performance or if either is faster/slower at acquiring focus.
There probably isn’t and I have no issues with the PL200 and anything to do with AF. It works well with the OM.
 
The Olympus 300 does 50fps with Continous AF, with the PL200, I am limited to 25fps.

No idea on any difference in AF performance or if either is faster/slower at acquiring focus.
There probably isn’t and I have no issues with the PL200 and anything to do with AF. It works well with the OM.
Once again, thank you so much for sharing all your findings on both cameras, it has really helped me a lot
 
Sorry further question please, what sort of loss of AF lock speed would you expect by using the 300mm f4 Pro vs the PL 200mm f2.8? You mentioned that you preferred the rendering of the PL, have you also tested the 300mm and could you expand a bit on how they compare to each other in your view?

Czech photographer Petr Bambousek used to shoot the Olympus 300mm but switched to the Panasonic 200mm because he liked the focal length more. His review is worth a read.



I do not own the 200mm - I would if 300mm wasn't my most-used focal length (I agree with Fsi that it has better rendering for out of focus areas). I have been shooting 300mm on Micro Four Thirds since I got into photography, starting with a Canon FD 300mm f4 S.S.C. :) 200mm is too short for me.

However, I do own the Panasonic 50-200 which comes close to the 200mm in terms of performance. In terms of AF speed, it's just as fast as the 300mm Pro. I find the 300mm slightly faster, but it's so close that it might be my bias. For a long time, I thought that the AF was slower on the Panasonic. It turns out that having the OIS on was slowing the AF ... ever since I turned it off, it's about as fast as the 300mm Pro.

However, as I've said, the 300mm Pro's OIS syncs with the camera's IBIS to make the excellent Olympus stabilization downright unreal. On paper, it provides a 1 stop advantage over IBIS alone, but I know for a fact that I get much better stabilization than I used to with my Canon 300mm f2.8L. What I mean is, on paper the 300mm f4 OIS + Olympus IBIS should be equal to the 300mm f2.8 used with the body's IBIS alone (since f2.8 has an inherent 1 stop advantage), but I find the f4 lens rock steady in low light, leading to sharper photos. Of course if you're shooting fast action in low light, the f2.8 lens will be better.

The 300mm Pro has some nice touches that would make me prefer it over the 200mm, even if FL weren't a factor. Olympus tests each focus motor individually, and only the best ones go into the 300mm Pro and 150-400 Pro. The 300mm Pro has 2 AF motors which make AF fast. I do not know about the Panasonic. It has an ARCA Swiss tripod foot. And an integrated lens hood. Also has a programmable button which I do not use. The Panasonic's button won't work with the OM-1.

Also, keep in mind that a 1.4x TC (included for free with the Panasonic 200mm) will bring it to 280mm f4. The 300mm Pro has an inherent reach advantage that means that it can go all the way to 1200mm equivalent whereas the Panasonic maxes out at 800mm. Even with the 1.4x TC, the 200mm is plenty sharp, but a bare 300mm will always be sharper.
 
Czech photographer Petr Bambousek used to shoot the Olympus 300mm but switched to the Panasonic 200mm because he liked the focal length more. His review is worth a read.



I do not own the 200mm - I would if 300mm wasn't my most-used focal length (I agree with Fsi that it has better rendering for out of focus areas). I have been shooting 300mm on Micro Four Thirds since I got into photography, starting with a Canon FD 300mm f4 S.S.C. :) 200mm is too short for me.

However, I do own the Panasonic 50-200 which comes close to the 200mm in terms of performance. In terms of AF speed, it's just as fast as the 300mm Pro. I find the 300mm slightly faster, but it's so close that it might be my bias. For a long time, I thought that the AF was slower on the Panasonic. It turns out that having the OIS on was slowing the AF ... ever since I turned it off, it's about as fast as the 300mm Pro.

However, as I've said, the 300mm Pro's OIS syncs with the camera's IBIS to make the excellent Olympus stabilization downright unreal. On paper, it provides a 1 stop advantage over IBIS alone, but I know for a fact that I get much better stabilization than I used to with my Canon 300mm f2.8L. What I mean is, on paper the 300mm f4 OIS + Olympus IBIS should be equal to the 300mm f2.8 used with the body's IBIS alone (since f2.8 has an inherent 1 stop advantage), but I find the f4 lens rock steady in low light, leading to sharper photos. Of course if you're shooting fast action in low light, the f2.8 lens will be better.

The 300mm Pro has some nice touches that would make me prefer it over the 200mm, even if FL weren't a factor. Olympus tests each focus motor individually, and only the best ones go into the 300mm Pro and 150-400 Pro. The 300mm Pro has 2 AF motors which make AF fast. I do not know about the Panasonic. It has an ARCA Swiss tripod foot. And an integrated lens hood. Also has a programmable button which I do not use. The Panasonic's button won't work with the OM-1.

Also, keep in mind that a 1.4x TC (included for free with the Panasonic 200mm) will bring it to 280mm f4. The 300mm Pro has an inherent reach advantage that means that it can go all the way to 1200mm equivalent whereas the Panasonic maxes out at 800mm. Even with the 1.4x TC, the 200mm is plenty sharp, but a bare 300mm will always be sharper.
So useful, thank you very much for taking the time to provide so much information
 
For those of you with an OM-1 is there a way to have less of these overlays as seen in this video? There is so much going on here with body box, head box and sometimes eye box (which you almost can't even see) plus the green dancing squares.

Now I am a fan of green squares like on Sony but only when the system isn't using/recognizing subject detect. This is one thing I don't like about Nikon Z9 as you never get dancing squares unless in Auto.

I find this stacking of overlays on the OM-1 to be just too much and you can't even see very well when the bird presents a good head angle as there is so much going on over the head. The overlays seem interesting for understanding what the system is detecting but I feel it would be easier to shoot if the body box would disappear when the head box appears and then the head box disappears when the eye box appears. The green dots would be better left off unless it isn't detecting a subject.

So just curious if you can modify what is shown?

 
For those of you with an OM-1 is there a way to have less of these overlays as seen in this video? There is so much going on here with body box, head box and sometimes eye box (which you almost can't even see) plus the green dancing squares.

Now I am a fan of green squares like on Sony but only when the system isn't using/recognizing subject detect. This is one thing I don't like about Nikon Z9 as you never get dancing squares unless in Auto.

I find this stacking of overlays on the OM-1 to be just too much and you can't even see very well when the bird presents a good head angle as there is so much going on over the head. The overlays seem interesting for understanding what the system is detecting but I feel it would be easier to shoot if the body box would disappear when the head box appears and then the head box disappears when the eye box appears. The green dots would be better left off unless it isn't detecting a subject.

So just curious if you can modify what is shown?


Ya, you can set it a couple of ways.

Not having the green dots is possible.
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The info to be displayed can also be set as well as whether it stops displaying when shutter is half pressed.
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@faunagraphy How did you get your OM-1 so fast? Has anyone else received theirs? I have one on order from Roberts and am waiting impatiently.

Sadly I haven't received my OM-1 yet. :confused: The photos I've shared were taken last year with my E-M1ii. Fsi22 is the one with the OM-1 and he's been running the tests. I too have my camera on order with Roberts Cameras and haven't heard a peep yet. They had received a batch 2 weeks ago but looks like it wasn't our turn yet, lol.
 
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