Is using Aperture priority bad?

[Geoff_G]

All I can say is if you are shooting a MILC with WYSIWYG, I'd give full M a try...it is less to juggle and it is simple to never ruin a shot due to the camera making a decision.

Indeed you can't blame poor exposure on the cam when using full manual...any exposure error belongs to the operator....
But point taken. It brings me back to my early film cam days when full manual was all you had. I got a lot of pic's with no 'auto anything'.
And wouldn't you know it but even in the digital age the Sunny f/16 rules still works...

 

[Johan Schmidt]

Is using Aperture priority considered an amateur setting vs manual setting? IU found that my whites are less blown out on my Egrets and Pelicans when I used to use aperture priority but in order to learn to be a “professional” wildlife photographer some day I switched to Manual with auto ISO. But I am struggling with blowouts even with using up to -1.0 exposure adjustment. But I am tempted to return to aperture priority except for the fear I will be viewed as a noobie beginner.

Aperture Priority works best when the brightness / darkness of the background is reasonably consistent which allows you to dial in exposure compensation. When your subject passes across bright and dark areas, manual is the best - Unless you're shooting in a 360 circle, try setting camera on Manual and take a light meter reading with a basic light meter like Sekonic L-308x-u ($229) - it's tiny and will fit into shirt pocket ( generally you don't really need the fancy ones with spot meter functionality).

When the clouds are in -out blocking the sun, then you can switch on AUTO-ISO option, but when the light is constant again, go back to settings obtained from light meter. Auto ISO has the benefit of changing exposure in 1/6 stop instead of ⅓ stop directly in camera.
Will save you hundreds of hours of editing and lost shots.

 

[Johan Schmidt]

I have never used auto ISO, so maybe I don't understand how it works. I thought if you are in manual (regardless of ISO mode) the camera will give a fixed exposure which may or may not be correct; it is whatever aperture and shutter speed you choose. Does auto ISO somehow override this? (Forgive my ignorance, I honestly do not know).

Steve's book explains it well.

 

[ARClark]

After reading this thread I've been challenging myself to do more M+AutoISO shooting this past weekend.
It has its place but I've blown my exposure more times than I typically do in full M.

The way I see it...if I shoot M+Auto ISO then I'm working my EC dial all the time. If I shoot full M then I'm working my ISO dial all the time. No real difference there.
However, in full M, in a given flight sequence, when the bird flies over different coloured backgrounds or becomes bigger in the frame (blocking out more of the background) full M always has the correct exposure and brightness dialled in....M+Auto ISO can literally require EC adjustment during the flight sequence to not ruin an exposure. I can't be adjusting a variable while shooting an Osprey diving down from sky over dark trees, over light grass and ultimately over light water all within a second or two.

That is where I can't understand how many people tell me they always shoot M+Auto ISO....because I understand when M+Auto ISO can be a more effective option (ie when the light is quickly changing on the subject) but even then if I've locked in my exposure for the subject while in the brightest light that will hit it then even if it underexposes as the subject comes into shadow, I can make use of the ISO-less nature of the modern sensors and lift the brightness in post....this gets me just as good of a shot as if I'd changed ISO on the fly and still avoids the pitfalls of Auto ISO screwing up and overexposing because the EC is wrong. With these ISO-less sensors all we really need to do is shoot at or above the dual gain value and not blow highlights. Full M can accomplish this with little effort and won't result in a ruined exposure (brightness) that can't be recovered.

All I can say is if you are shooting a MILC with WYSIWYG, I'd give full M a try...it is less to juggle and it is simple to never ruin a shot due to the camera making a decision.

Good stuff. Yes, I use manual and auto ISO a lot for shooting birds in varying light, but I am frequently adjusting the EC in those situations.

Full manual is wonderful when conditions allow. Like you, I especially like it for BIF in constant light against varying backgrounds.

Aperture priority used to be my preference as I prioritized ISO and depth of field and lived with lower shutter speeds (was shooting from tripod) to preserve feather detail on perched birds in difficult light.

However, going more handheld, and with better high ISO performance of latest cameras combined with much improved noise reduction PP apps, I’m shooting with higher ISOs in manual/auto ISO, and prioritizing shutter speed and aperture.

In the end, however, whichever way one exposes, it’s always a balancing act.

 

[bleirer]

It's worthwhile to read up on the exposure value system. Not to follow it religiously, but just to understand and be aware that each shot can have just one exposure but that same one exposure can be arrived at in many ways depending on artistic intent.

Exposure Value (EV) Explained - Plus EV Charts

You may have heard photographers use the terms “exposure value” or “EV” when talking about the amount of light in a scene. But what does EV really mean in photography, and why does it matter to the photos you take? This article answers those questions and more.

photographylife.com

 

[fcotterill]

Steve's book explains it well.

There's also these videos on Auto ISO

 

[EricBowles]

Wow - a lot of posts on this topic.

Aperture, Auto ISO and Shutter priority are all semi automated modes. This means that you directly control one or two variables, and float another based on the scene and metering. It also means that variations are caused by background changes as well as subject luminance. The solution is to use Exposure Comp with all of these options.

Particularly for long lenses, I always want to shoot either wide open or very slightly stopped down. Aperture is a set it and forget it choice, and that's why it is used for wildlife. Shutter speed has some latitude, but it is usually within a narrow range depending on whether the subject is moving or near static. I'm usually at 1/2400 sec or 1/400 sec give or take - action and perched in shade. ISO can float as needed, but I may want to intervene above ISO 6400. In theory, you could use Banks to have Auto ISO settings for Action and Static subjects.

When I teach someone to manage exposure, we talk in terms of Aperture Priority and just three aperture choices - f/3.5 or wide open for a blurred background, f/11 for a detailed background, and f/8 for groups of people or casual use - and exposure adjustments are made with Exposure Comp.

I find the preferred choice depends a lot on what, where and how you photograph. If your subject matter is lit by full sun and commonly positioned in a single direction, this becomes a lot easier to dial in an appropriate amount of Exposure Comp and have limited variation. This applies to much of the western US as well as shorebirds. But if you are photographing wildlife in eastern forests with a wide range of light levels and backgrounds, adjustments to Exposure Comp can have a 5 stop range or more. In these cases, full manual has some advantages. If you have changing light levels - especially within more modest extremes or unexpected changes - one or more of the semi automated options are useful.

I don't think it has anything to do with experience or skill level. Professionals don't choose manual because of skill - they choose it because it gives the desired results. But they can choose alternative settings using automation.

For me, full Manual is generally a better option. Most of my photography is in constant light from a single direction with possible changes in backgrounds, or small birds in wooded areas with everything from full sun to deep shade within a short distance and time. I set up Exposure Comp for medium shade with a bright background, and this allows me to switch to Auto ISO and be in the ballpark within a second or two. But my primary mode is full Manual set up for full sun - basically sunny 16. This is normally a pretty good option, and with the EVF I can quickly adjust as needed.

 

[red charm wrangler]

Wouldn't a pro use whatever setting, whether manual or semimanual, to get his desired effect?

 

[jeffnles1]

Wouldn't a pro use whatever setting, whether manual or semimanual, to get his desired effect?

That was my thinking too. I haven't recently seen a professional carpenter or roofer swinging a hammer. They use air compressors and pneumatic nail guns. Faster, more efficient and gets the job done. I am quite sure all of them know how to swing a hammer but why when there is more efficient equipment. Last time I was at the mechanic and they were rotating the tires on my car, they didn't use a long handled lug wrench, they used an air powered impact driver. I'm quite sure the guy knew how to use the manual wrench but why when he had an impact sitting right next to him?

I see the same thing with photography. I know how to shoot in full manual (including manual ISO). I still do sometimes when the lighting is going to be tricky or I'm looking for some particular effect. However, for normal day to day shooting, why would I rely on full manual when there are efficient tools at my disposal. I can assure you the computer inside today's cameras can process data and changing scene conditions a lot faster than my brain can. Maybe those reading this are a whole lot smarter than me but I know I can't react anywhere close to as fast as the computer in the camera can.

My thinking:
Aperture Priority (AV) is when depth of field is the most important aspect
Shutter Priority (TV) is when impact on motion is the most important
Canon has an interesting mode called FV which seems like it may offer the best of both allowing one to switch between AV and TV on the fly. I have not used it yet.

Manual with Auto ISO is king of like the FV on canon. I can choose my aperture and/or shutter speed and the computer in the camera selects what it thinks is the best ISO. I would say in well over 80% it is correct. For those times where I may second guess the camera, I use EV +/- to override the camera's sensor.

I haven't read all the 5 pages of response here and I sure do not wish to insult anyone or be argumentative. I just don't see what difference it makes how a photographer chooses to use or not to use the technology in the camera. The end result (image captured) is really what is important, what camera mode setting was used should be of no consequence other than informational or friendly discussion.
Just my .02 worth.

 

[agrumpyoldsod]

Wouldn't a pro use whatever setting, whether manual or semi-manual, to get his desired effect?

Yes -- BUT a pro-keeps a constant eye on all the settings -- particular shutter speed in A mode.
One has to be very careful to avoid motion blur.

Many pros simply shoot full manual and that is it. But working wedding shooters and similar lov A mode to control DOF and then tweak ISO or AutoISO (with MIN SHUTTER SETTING) to keep shutter speed "high enough" not to suffer blur.

 

[red charm wrangler]

"But working wedding shooters and similar lov A mode to control DOF and then tweak ISO or AutoISO (with MIN SHUTTER SETTING) to keep shutter speed "high enough" not to suffer blur." Exactly.

 

[Ken Miracle]

Wow - a lot of posts on this topic.

Aperture, Auto ISO and Shutter priority are all semi automated modes. This means that you directly control one or two variables, and float another based on the scene and metering. It also means that variations are caused by background changes as well as subject luminance. The solution is to use Exposure Comp with all of these options.

Particularly for long lenses, I always want to shoot either wide open or very slightly stopped down. Aperture is a set it and forget it choice, and that's why it is used for wildlife. Shutter speed has some latitude, but it is usually within a narrow range depending on whether the subject is moving or near static. I'm usually at 1/2400 sec or 1/400 sec give or take - action and perched in shade. ISO can float as needed, but I may want to intervene above ISO 6400. In theory, you could use Banks to have Auto ISO settings for Action and Static subjects.

When I teach someone to manage exposure, we talk in terms of Aperture Priority and just three aperture choices - f/3.5 or wide open for a blurred background, f/11 for a detailed background, and f/8 for groups of people or casual use - and exposure adjustments are made with Exposure Comp.

I find the preferred choice depends a lot on what, where and how you photograph. If your subject matter is lit by full sun and commonly positioned in a single direction, this becomes a lot easier to dial in an appropriate amount of Exposure Comp and have limited variation. This applies to much of the western US as well as shorebirds. But if you are photographing wildlife in eastern forests with a wide range of light levels and backgrounds, adjustments to Exposure Comp can have a 5 stop range or more. In these cases, full manual has some advantages. If you have changing light levels - especially within more modest extremes or unexpected changes - one or more of the semi automated options are useful.

I don't think it has anything to do with experience or skill level. Professionals don't choose manual because of skill - they choose it because it gives the desired results. But they can choose alternative settings using automation.

For me, full Manual is generally a better option. Most of my photography is in constant light from a single direction with possible changes in backgrounds, or small birds in wooded areas with everything from full sun to deep shade within a short distance and time. I set up Exposure Comp for medium shade with a bright background, and this allows me to switch to Auto ISO and be in the ballpark within a second or two. But my primary mode is full Manual set up for full sun - basically sunny 16. This is normally a pretty good option, and with the EVF I can quickly adjust as needed.

As a citizen scientist shooting for bird ID first and pretty shots last or by accident full manual is almost never the better option. For me it is not efficient with my ever changing, sudden appearing and frequently hyper active subjects.

I do not remember the last time I was shooting birds in constant light from a single direction for more than a few seconds or minutes at best. I can be shooting in bright sun over a river and moments later in the riparian bush behind me and seconds later in the sage steppe on the other side with a hawk carrying a snake across the open sky one moment and in front of a cliff the next and then a Canyon Wren racing accross the jumble of rocks at the base of the cliff with highly variable light.

There are times when if I had known what was about to happen having set up in full manual and metering the scene would have been great but it just is not worth missing that rare bird I can not predict and I am seldom in one position for more than a minute or two.

So I am in your second option manual with auto ISO almost 100% of the time. Yes I have to adjust in post more than I would like some days but seldom lose detail on either side of the histogram but still push to the right as much as possible.

My photographic discipline matches my attention deficit hyper active persona well and my persona explains why my flirtation with large format 4x5 film and a darkroom just did not work out

 

[JoPoV]

This lecture series takes some stamina and concentration but it's well worth the time spent

I started here, reading this derived essay

The Best Explanation of Dual (Native) ISO We've Seen Yet

The Dual ISO sensor is on the rise, and every major camera manufacturer has made one (or will very soon). What is it, though, and what does it mean?

www.premiumbeat.com

Then the lectures....

Does uneven and varying with iso stop distribution around neutral gray is something very special to some sensors or is it tru with every sensors ?
Is this really how still raw datas behave ? Or only when video shooting because of some kind of transfer curves applied before recording raw datas (which could be told "false raw, so") ?

So does this counter intuitive behavior (more datas in highlights at iso 1000 than iso 125 for this sensor) :

explained by this :

is tru for any kind of sensor when shooting stills ?
I'm not talking about dual gain, and of course each sensor has it's own dynamic characteristic. I'm talking about the stop distribution around neutral gray being uneven and varying with iso.

Or is it just a fancy way to say : if you expose less, you have more room for highlights (since this sensor is iso invariant from 100 to 1000 iso) ?

 

[fcotterill]

Interesting questions

If I understand stop distribution, this is Dynamic Range - specifically how the shadows versus lightest tones are recorded in the scene. It is clear sensors vary in how they record/capture as as the gain (ISO) is increased, so overall DR decreases with less luminance hitting the sensor. But I have to confess I do not know where Middle Gray will be positioned along the line of the graphs in my following post (?!)

I may be wrong but my understanding of the histogram in the video is it is showing the changes in Shadow Improvement as the Gain (ISO) increases. See this article
https://photonstophotos.net/General...ographic_Dynamic_Range_Shadow_Improvement.htm

Does uneven and varying with iso stop distribution around neutral gray is something very special to some sensors or is it tru with every sensors ?
Is this really how still raw datas behave ? Or only when video shooting because of some kind of transfer curves applied before recording raw datas (which could be told "false raw, so") ?

So does this counter intuitive behavior (more datas in highlights at iso 1000 than iso 125 for this sensor) :

View attachment 62691

explained by this :

View attachment 62692

is tru for any kind of sensor when shooting stills ?
I'm not talking about dual gain, and of course each sensor has it's own dynamic characteristic. I'm talking about the stop distribution around neutral gray being uneven and varying with iso.

Or is it just a fancy way to say : if you expose less, you have more room for highlights (since this sensor is iso invariant from 100 to 1000 iso) ?

 

[fcotterill]

I find Bill Claff's website is useful to compare properties of sensors.

Examples of DR Shadow Improverment with increasing ISO

Shadow Improvement of Photographic Dynamic Range versus ISO Setting

Photographic Dynamic Range versus ISO Setting

 

[O]

I use Aperture Priority almost exclusively for wildlife (or other moving subjects) and use Manual for landscape and architecture. Though I don't make a living at photography, I do consider myself a part time professional (with dozens of publication credits). A lot of pros prefer Aperture Priority, but don't take my word for it.

Long-time professional wildlife photographer Mark Carwardine uses Aperture Priority almost exclusively and claims most of the wildlife photographers he knows do the same.

Professional wedding/portrait photographer Jiggie Alejandrino uses Aperture Priority ninety percent of the time.

Excellent video clips and defiantly great points of view, very helpful. Enjoyed listening.

That said, i feel in general we only ever really use TIME LIGHT SPEED in a myriad of combinations, that's been the case since the beginning of time, be it a Box Brownie or a Z9 if you know what i mean LOL.

As technology has advanced, like ISO, or IBIS more options or combinations can be used in different ways to get a certain creative effect, DOF, frozen moment etc.

For the beginner or hobbyist starting out things may be a little more work till experience develops their skill set.

A true professional with excellent skill sets rely s more on experience to use the most effective combinations to achieve best results ie: more effortless.

What method is better or worse doesn't matter, its what gets you the results or desired effects, what glass or camera your using also has an influence.

For seriously fast moving action split second shots, i use manual floated iso, i forget the camera completely and focus on nailing the composition, everywhere else for slower things i lean towards AP.

If i want to read a situation for lighting and settings i actually use P mode to measure for settings and work from there.

The rules in photography are that there are no rules LOL.

Only an opinion

 

[O]

I have never used auto ISO, so maybe I don't understand how it works. I thought if you are in manual (regardless of ISO mode) the camera will give a fixed exposure which may or may not be correct; it is whatever aperture and shutter speed you choose. Does auto ISO somehow override this? (Forgive my ignorance, I honestly do not know).

Floating the iso automatically balances the exposure in most cases perfectly, you set your F stop, SS, the iso will balance things perfectly in most cases. Your camera generally speaking is fully automatic in an abstract way.

Only an opinion