Kayak Models and Setups

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

I own a kayak but take a my camera out in canoe. Kayaking for me is a wet experience if only from dripping paddles. I'm not too worried about the camera in the canoe under good conditions but I put it in a pelican case for entering/exiting, easy whitewater, weather, etc.
My bias with kayaking and cameras is that I to have found kayaking to be a wet experience. I too agree that canoes would be better for photography.

Also most of my boating has been in salt water. With boating we frequently use dinghies to get between a boat and shore. From that experience I am familiar with where a dinghy can and cannot be used safely.

Most bird photography is done close to shore. If I still had my sailboat I would carry my cameras well protected against dampness in the boat, I would not hesitate to use a dinghy to explore along the shore and I would not hesitate to bring a camera on board with me if conditions were reasonable.

Livingston dinghies are very common. They are stable and ride comfortably. They are designed to work with a small outboard motor which can be either gas or battery powered. I would not trust them in open passages where there is a lot of current or waves but they are perfect for exploring close to shore where most shore birds can be found. Traveling around with them using an outboard in sheltered water is very comfortable. They also provide a stable platform for photography.
 
Most of the kayaks brought up so far are designed for calmer water and I would say that doing photography from a kayak is best reserved for calmer water.
With these types of kayaks it is extremely difficult to tip them. It would basically take me diving out the side of the Pungo to get it to tip. I've nudged the bow into dense reeds and stood up and took a leak off the side before. Getting in and out I think would be impossible to tip the thing.
Some of the peddle drive, fishing kayaks are designed to stand up on so again, tipping is extremely rare.

Now I also kayak with camera on the ocean but stick to protected areas around small islands, inlets, bays etc. True ocean touring kayaks are not the greatest to do photography from. Less stable and much smaller cockpit opening. And if you do end up in rougher water than the spray and waves can be trouble for the gear.
 
Most of the kayaks brought up so far are designed for calmer water and I would say that doing photography from a kayak is best reserved for calmer water.
With these types of kayaks it is extremely difficult to tip them. It would basically take me diving out the side of the Pungo to get it to tip. I've nudged the bow into dense reeds and stood up and took a leak off the side before. Getting in and out I think would be impossible to tip the thing.
Some of the peddle drive, fishing kayaks are designed to stand up on so again, tipping is extremely rare.

Now I also kayak with camera on the ocean but stick to protected areas around small islands, inlets, bays etc. True ocean touring kayaks are not the greatest to do photography from. Less stable and much smaller cockpit opening. And if you do end up in rougher water than the spray and waves can be trouble for the gear.
Good summary
 
I use my Kilroy exactly like @arbitrage uses his Pungo, except that I sometimes add a tripod/gimbal. That way, your camera is always ready to be used, it’s hands free, it’s away from water dripping from the paddle, and you don’t risk scaring a subject by suddenly raising the camera/lens.

I’ve also used an anchor to keep myself in position to wait for certain subjects, like prothonotary warblers. Kayaking with one’s camera is a fantastic way to spend a morning or afternoon, maybe my favorite way to photograph wildlife. I’d encourage anyone to give it a try, but I certainly agree that it’s best reserved for calm waters.

And for anyone with stability concerns, check this out:

 
I would consider Native Watercraft Ultimate FX12, hybrid fishing kayak, offers best of both worlds, kayak and a canoe. I have similiar kayak from widlerness systems, Commander 120, has been discontinued. The Ultimate is very similiar.
I had friends in Houston that used Native Wilderness(I think) 12 ft or 13 ft kayaks for photography. When I went on Native's website, the Ultimate model seemed to be the closet to what they used. These would have been used on saltwater bays and lakes, not oceans or the Gulf of Mexico.
 
Prior to buying a kayak, try renting....there are 2 basic style, "sit on top" & sit in.....I prefer the sit in as the water level are much heavier on land. Also have your local kayak shop "fit you"...A lot depends on your height/weight. You need to decide of you want regular light weight aluminum oars or ultra light carbon graphite...Other costs, life jacket, water proof bag for your camera gear,wallet & cell phone & keys water shoes, rope, whistle (distress), How are you planning on transporting it from where you live. I've used a Hurricane Kayak for well over 10 years & modified it to my specific needs, Before you go, place your kayak on the ground & do a practice load (figure out where things will go...You dont want to do that when you get to where you're going, especially if its a ramp and there are other boaters.....Practice getting in and out without any gear ..bring plenty of fluid & above all HAVE FUN
 
Hey, Dawatm

I’ve been thinking of writing an article on this for some time now. 🛶😎🫎
If you’re interested, I can give you a run down on what you’re looking for in a wildlife boat. (you may already know, so apologies for being pedantic if you do 🙂).
Let me know.

I shoot primarily from my Airvolution 2 rigid inflatable tandem and have taken it deep backcountry into Northern Ontario many times.
You also might want to consider the new Wilderness Systems A.T.A.K. 110 inflatable fishing kayak — it’s a shorter boat, but has camo colour pattern and has equipment rails. I find that wildlife easily spot “the big blue thing” coming at them when I’m paddling the Airvolution.
At 44 lbs, the A.T.A.K. is also 8lbs lighter than my Airvolution. I’m thinking of buying this boat for shorter excursions and base camping.

Kayaks are ideal shooting platforms because they get you low to the water without hanging your rig over the side — much easier if you’re packing a big lens like a 400mm f/2.8 as I was last week in Algonquin.
I use the tandem Airvolution 2 at 52lbs, because I carry several large lenses plus camping gear. For a smaller rig or single lens loadout, you could use the Airvolution single at 34 lbs.
The Airvolution is rated for Class II water, and I’ve paddled it through some pretty spicy chop up north, which it handled easily.
It’s supernaturally stable — you have to tip it on purpose to roll it over.
For whitewater or ocean, I’d recommend a boat designed for that type of surface.
See the Airvolution and ATAK here:

This is my Airvolution, and that green bag is a Corsurf submersible backpack I use to carry my rig (for the big 400mm f/2.8, I use a 50L waterproof duffel bag).
I added the stadium seat myself, which I highly recommend — your bum will thank you. 😳
1720878735305.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


Here’s a beaver I captured from the kayak in blue hour on the Opeongo in Algonquin.
Nikon Z8; 180-600mm @ 560mm f/7.1 1/1250sec ISO 12,800

1720879361234.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
Last edited:
Re Handheld or tripod, I shoot almost exlusively handheld for shooting flexibility — you can use drift techniques more easily and also slouch in the botto of the boat to get lower (last week, I had the boat leaning on a mudbank while shooting a bull moose — I shimmied into the bottom of the boat and hung my legs over the side and shot between my feet. 🙂)
But, with a big lens like the 400 2.8, I’ll use a tripod for video to hold the camera more steady. At 6.5lbs, the 400 2.8 is hand holdable for stills.
With anything smaller, like the 400 4.5 and 180-600, I’m strictly handheld.
My paddle partner shoots his big 15lb 600mm f/4 from a tripod and fluid head.
 
Last edited:
For ocean kayaking, I’ve generally rented a standard ocean kayak and lashed the rig under the bungies in front of the cockpir using my CORSurf submersible backpack.
I pull out the camera when shooting and stow it if the conditions get sketchy.
I’ve kept it to smaller lenses like the 200-500mm and the 180-600mm due to size limitations of what will fit in the CORSurf and under the bungies.

Here’s one of the first wildlife shots I ever took, from an ocean kayak off the west coast of Vancouver Island:
Nikon D500; 200-500mm f/5.6 @ 440mm f/5.6 1/1250 ISO 3200


1720881937970.jpeg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
I have used the Hobie kayaks that can be powered by your legs and so no need to paddle. That leaves your hands free for the camera and also minimizes the chances of water dripping down from the paddle and hitting the camera and lens - a particular concern in salt water.

I have been looking at the Sea Eagle inflatable kayaks that are designed for mounting a Bixpy electric motor to the bottom. With an inflatable that can be ready to launch in 20 minutes makes transport and storage much easier. The kayak would fit in the trunk of a sedan or cargo area of a small SUV. The Sea Eagle kayak with the Bixby are less expensive than the Hobie inflatable kayaks and provide far more protection for you gear from the water. The Hobie inflatable kayaks are more like a paddleboard with a chair.

The single person Sea Eagle kayaks weigh from 35 to 45 lbs and the two person Sea Eagle Razorlite weighs 45 lbs, all are manageable by a single person.

A separate issue that needs to be understood is that cargo ships and fishing boats have spread invasive quagga and zebra mussels in the USA. As result in many lakes and reservoirs an inspection is mandatory before launching and to pass the inspection the boat must be perfectly dry, inside and out. This is more difficult for multi day use of any inflatable boat or kayak.
The Sea Eagle Razorlite is a great boat - fast and efficient — but I’d recommend some of Sea Eagle’s other boats for photography unless one is a seasoned paddler — the 393 is notorious for dinky-dunking its occupants. 🙂 💦
 
One other boat you should consider if you’re paddling inland is a Swift pack boat — as long as you have a big budget.
It’s a canoe style hull except it has kayak style seating and is paddled like a kayak. It has foot braces and a tumble-home on the hull to prevent you knoking your knuckles on the rails.

The Swift boats are light and very maneuverable and fairly stable, and have a lrge load capaity and room for big lenses. I’ve used them as rentals up north.
You can rent them from Algonquin Outfitters.
Unfortunately, they run from $4000-$5500 CDN.

The low seating is ideal for photography.
 
I had friends in Houston that used Native Wilderness(I think) 12 ft or 13 ft kayaks for photography. When I went on Native's website, the Ultimate model seemed to be the closet to what they used. These would have been used on saltwater bays and lakes, not oceans or the Gulf of Mexico.
Native Watercraft Ultimate 12 is what I’ve used for a few years. They are very stable, track nicely and are roomy. The open concept is perfect for photography.
 
There are plenty of good kayaks out there, but I chose the Native Watercraft kayaks. My first was the Ultimate 12. I sold it to buy a "sit-on-top" Native Watercraft Slayer 14, which I've had and been very happy with for several years. I bought the Native Watercraft Slayer 13 Propel for my wife, but I like it more and use it often. Unlike the Hobies I looked at, the Propel can go backwards and forwards. If you prefer to paddle, simply lift the drive unit up and out of the way.

In either kayak, I keep the camera gear in a dry bag attached to the boat in case of a flip until needed. (Speaking of flipping, the Native Watercraft are not real tipsy and I can even stand in it, which I've done, but only out of necessity). 99% of the time I handhold the camera and lenses, but I have used my tripod on a couple occasions. It is also tied off to the kayak in case of a flip.

But, the most important thing I've purchased, that I would advise you to consider, was Personal Property Insurance for my camera gear. Not worried about the gear in the dry bag, but if something should happen and the lens/camera get soaked or sink to the bottom, my policy will pay for 100% repair or replacement.
 
I looked into the cost of a Livingston dinghy. You can find decent quality used ones for well under a grand. The 10-12 foot ones are so stable you can stand in them and they won’t tip. Even if you swamp them they will still float. These can either be put on a rack or in a pickup truck bed or you can

A brand new electric 3 hp outboard complete with battery can be bought for less than 3k.

That would be a more than adequate solution for photography.

those Livingston dinghies are really stable you can stand up in them on any corner and they will not tip over. Very safe boats.
 
I owned several Kayaks. For fishing and photography I found the Hobie Mirage to be the best by far once it was on the water.

Draw back was that the Mirage was very heavy and tough to transport to and from the water compared to other paddle Hobies and other Kayaks I owned or used.
 
Like most things in life picking a kayak for photography involves compromises. Primarily the stability that's desirable for photography comes at the cost of paddling efficiency. You're on the right track looking at kayaks designed for fishing. Any/all of the inflatable kayaks that I've seen are extremely stable. Typically they don't paddle as well as rigid boats, aren't as directionally stable, and drift more in a breeze. But they sure are handy to transport. There are a few that paddle pretty darn good including the Advanced Elements model listed above. I've got an older model Advance Elements and it's a great boat. PITA though because it's not self bailing. If you do decide on an inflatable I'd recommend that you don't even consider any that don't have a drop stitched floor.

One downside of kayaks for photography is that the use of a double ended paddle involves a lot of motion. When one blade is in the water the other one is waving in the air overhead. Ruins the whole low profile approach. It's counter intuitive but the longer paddle you use the lower the dry blade is while paddling. That helps in general but I highly recommend carrying a telescoping/floatable emergency paddle. When you manage to get close to wildlife you can stow the double ended paddle and use the short little single blade paddle to maneuver. Also after you've taken your camera out of its dry bag a lot less water comes aboard with the single blade paddle. Attaching paddles to the boat with a tether is a good idea too both for safety and so you can ease it into the water and let it go rather than having to raise it over the side of the boat when an animal is staring at you.

Kayaking(or any boat) certainly opens a whole new world of wildlife photography.
 
Like most things in life picking a kayak for photography involves compromises. Primarily the stability that's desirable for photography comes at the cost of paddling efficiency. You're on the right track looking at kayaks designed for fishing. Any/all of the inflatable kayaks that I've seen are extremely stable. Typically they don't paddle as well as rigid boats, aren't as directionally stable, and drift more in a breeze. But they sure are handy to transport. There are a few that paddle pretty darn good including the Advanced Elements model listed above. I've got an older model Advance Elements and it's a great boat. PITA though because it's not self bailing. If you do decide on an inflatable I'd recommend that you don't even consider any that don't have a drop stitched floor.

One downside of kayaks for photography is that the use of a double ended paddle involves a lot of motion. When one blade is in the water the other one is waving in the air overhead. Ruins the whole low profile approach. It's counter intuitive but the longer paddle you use the lower the dry blade is while paddling. That helps in general but I highly recommend carrying a telescoping/floatable emergency paddle. When you manage to get close to wildlife you can stow the double ended paddle and use the short little single blade paddle to maneuver. Also after you've taken your camera out of its dry bag a lot less water comes aboard with the single blade paddle. Attaching paddles to the boat with a tether is a good idea too both for safety and so you can ease it into the water and let it go rather than having to raise it over the side of the boat when an animal is staring at you.

Kayaking(or any boat) certainly opens a whole new world of wildlife photography.
I used an Aire Tomcat infltatable stable, yup drifted in a breeze, self bailing, easier to transport than my Hobie Mirage was (but a lot slower and not hands free). Second attaching paddles with tethers to the kayak !! I used it more for playing in white water than fishing, photography or hunting since those were the Mirage's forte.
 
telescoping/floatable emergency paddl

Like most things in life picking a kayak for photography involves compromises. Primarily the stability that's desirable for photography comes at the cost of paddling efficiency. You're on the right track looking at kayaks designed for fishing. Any/all of the inflatable kayaks that I've seen are extremely stable. Typically they don't paddle as well as rigid boats, aren't as directionally stable, and drift more in a breeze. But they sure are handy to transport. There are a few that paddle pretty darn good including the Advanced Elements model listed above. I've got an older model Advance Elements and it's a great boat. PITA though because it's not self bailing. If you do decide on an inflatable I'd recommend that you don't even consider any that don't have a drop stitched floor.

One downside of kayaks for photography is that the use of a double ended paddle involves a lot of motion. When one blade is in the water the other one is waving in the air overhead. Ruins the whole low profile approach. It's counter intuitive but the longer paddle you use the lower the dry blade is while paddling. That helps in general but I highly recommend carrying a telescoping/floatable emergency paddle. When you manage to get close to wildlife you can stow the double ended paddle and use the short little single blade paddle to maneuver. Also after you've taken your camera out of its dry bag a lot less water comes aboard with the single blade paddle. Attaching paddles to the boat with a tether is a good idea too both for safety and so you can ease it into the water and let it go rather than having to raise it over the side of the boat when an animal is staring at you.

Kayaking(or any boat) certainly opens a whole new world of wildlife photography.
Hey Dan. Thanks for mentioning the emergency paddle for getting closer to wildlife. I am ordering one today!
 
When I was living in Corpus Christi Texas, I used a Hobie Revolution 13 for photographing birds in the coastal bays, fast, stealthy and dry. Had a nikon setup with 500pf and occasionally 2.0x tc added in a small pelican box in front of the seat and it worked excellent, never got anything wet. Now back in Germany, I got me a Hobie Lynx for Lakes and (impounded) rivers. Not as good tracking and speed, but very stable and maneuverable, and so light that its a breeze to put it on top of the car. Shied away from the inflatable ones mainly because of reports on delamination issues and short warranties for the price they are sold here. Cheers
 
The Long Haul Folding Kayak I own is one of the most stable sea kayaks on the market. The design is similar to the Klepper. The boat consists of an internal modular frame system that can be disassembled and stored in packs. A skin made of high end fabrics such as Hypalon is stretched over the frame. Inflatable internal sponsons are added to the boat to enhance stability.

These boats have a wider frame than rigid kayaks and the boat handles seas better because it is more flexible. They have internal air sponsons that add to the stability of the boat. They also tend t be wider than standard hard shell kayaks.

These are expedition capable boats and a version of these boats are sold to the military where they are used by Special Forces.

I have gotten wet getting in and out of these boats but once in and loaded they are plenty stable enough.

The problem is the kayak is a wet environment and keeping a camera safe is challenging. You are low in the water and it gets wet everywhere.
 
The Long Haul Folding Kayak I own is one of the most stable sea kayaks on the market. The design is similar to the Klepper. The boat consists of an internal modular frame system that can be disassembled and stored in packs. A skin made of high end fabrics such as Hypalon is stretched over the frame. Inflatable internal sponsons are added to the boat to enhance stability.

These boats have a wider frame than rigid kayaks and the boat handles seas better because it is more flexible. They have internal air sponsons that add to the stability of the boat. They also tend t be wider than standard hard shell kayaks.

These are expedition capable boats and a version of these boats are sold to the military where they are used by Special Forces.

I have gotten wet getting in and out of these boats but once in and loaded they are plenty stable enough.

The problem is the kayak is a wet environment and keeping a camera safe is challenging. You are low in the water and it gets wet everywhere.

If it is anything like a Klepper, stability is not you problem. The worst problem is water spilling in when paddeling. And from experience, this is nowhere near enough to pose a problem for even slightly weather-sealed camera gear. Whatever water gets in is not enough to drown the gear, and what little drops there are easily repelled with a towel. Getting in and out is the risky part for gear, a dry bag is all you need for that.
 
Hey, Dawatm

I’ve been thinking of writing an article on this for some time now. 🛶😎🫎
If you’re interested, I can give you a run down on what you’re looking for in a wildlife boat. (you may already know, so apologies for being pedantic if you do 🙂).
Let me know.

I shoot primarily from my Airvolution 2 rigid inflatable tandem and have taken it deep backcountry into Northern Ontario many times.
You also might want to consider the new Wilderness Systems A.T.A.K. 110 inflatable fishing kayak — it’s a shorter boat, but has camo colour pattern and has equipment rails. I find that wildlife easily spot “the big blue thing” coming at them when I’m paddling the Airvolution.
At 44 lbs, the A.T.A.K. is also 8lbs lighter than my Airvolution. I’m thinking of buying this boat for shorter excursions and base camping.

Kayaks are ideal shooting platforms because they get you low to the water without hanging your rig over the side — much easier if you’re packing a big lens like a 400mm f/2.8 as I was last week in Algonquin.
I use the tandem Airvolution 2 at 52lbs, because I carry several large lenses plus camping gear. For a smaller rig or single lens loadout, you could use the Airvolution single at 34 lbs.
The Airvolution is rated for Class II water, and I’ve paddled it through some pretty spicy chop up north, which it handled easily.
It’s supernaturally stable — you have to tip it on purpose to roll it over.
For whitewater or ocean, I’d recommend a boat designed for that type of surface.
See the Airvolution and ATAK here:

This is my Airvolution, and that green bag is a Corsurf submersible backpack I use to carry my rig (for the big 400mm f/2.8, I use a 50L waterproof duffel bag).
I added the stadium seat myself, which I highly recommend — your bum will thank you. 😳
View attachment 93097

Here’s a beaver I captured from the kayak in blue hour on the Opeongo in Algonquin.
Nikon Z8; 180-600mm @ 560mm f/7.1 1/1250sec ISO 12,800

View attachment 93106
Looking at the Airvolution you've linked it is very interesting. As someone who would almost always paddling alone would you recommend still getting the tandem boat as a way to have extra space for gear or would the Airvolution single / pro be a better option as they are meant for one person (as well as being a bit cheaper which is always a bonus). Thanks!
 
Looking at the Airvolution you've linked it is very interesting. As someone who would almost always paddling alone would you recommend still getting the tandem boat as a way to have extra space for gear or would the Airvolution single / pro be a better option as they are meant for one person (as well as being a bit cheaper which is always a bonus). Thanks!
Great question. I do typically paddle the tandem alone, but it‘s a trade-off.

The single is 12 pounds lighter and easier to manhandle and lug around on land — not a small consideration. I’ve put on some muscle lugging the two-seater. 😳

But, once on the water, yes, I like the tandem — it paddles nicely solo and you have room in front of you for a good dry-pack without cramping your legs.
This is especially true with some of the bigger lenses like the 400mm 2.8 and 600mm f/4.
You also have more room for gear if you want to do some kayak camping.

As a last note — the Pro seat is much more comfortable than the stock seats and I’d highly recommend it. I retrofitted my boat with an Akona stadium seat.
The stadium seat is a bit higher, so I’m often slouching and maneuvering myself into the bottom of the boat to get a lower shooting angle. But I can paddle for 6 hours in comfort.

There’s another boat new on the market you might want to look at: the Wilderness Systems iATAK 110.
It’s a single seat 10’ fishing kayak.
I’t got gear rails, comes with a stadium seat, and has a camo color pattern (my Airvolution is bright blue and sticks out like a sore thumb).

Cheers and good luck!

Tom
 
Last edited:
My wife has a Oru foldable kayak. She only paddles, not fishing, motor, etc.

Interested in a very stable kayak of photography. Suggestions?
I have an Ocean Kayak Big Game Prowler which is a wide sit-on-top, 13' 4" long. It's a platform. I don't know if this model is in production anymore, it's probably almost 20 years old. Due to its size and shape, it doesn't move fast, but it's stable and I'm happy that I have it. So I would recommend a sit-on-top kayak as opposed to a sit-inside Kayak for the sake of stablility and ease of getting on and off, particularly if you have knee issues. The bigger kayaks that you can peddle, like a Hobie, are most stable of all. HOWEVER they are heavy. The more stable the kayak, the more UNLIKELY you will be able to right it and get back inside if it turns over, which is not an issue until suddenly it is. The peddle-able kayaks are a joy on the water but heavy to lift. I would want to use a trailer. (I use a trailer for my Big Game Prowler). Practically all my kayaking is done on flat, open water. On rivers, the game could change quite a bit.
Those are your trade-offs. I like kayaking alot and for photography, kayaks get you low and close to your subjects. Have fun!
AND:
Get one or more quality heavy-duty dry bags to put your gear in. I'd suggest one that has a zipper and tie points to tether it to your kayak and to buoyancy devices. I have a great one but I can't remember the model # etc. Put your gear in it whenever you're not actively engaged in photography, because that will be when you're most likely not paying attention to your camera gear. For example, if you're paddling a distance to get to where the photography will happen, or when you're paddling in rain just to get back to the car. Even if you can't guarrantee it, you CAN maximize the likelihood that if you lose control of your kayak, your camera gear will stay dry and float.
 
I have an Ocean Kayak Big Game Prowler which is a wide sit-on-top, 13' 4" long. It's a platform. I don't know if this model is in production anymore, it's probably almost 20 years old. Due to its size and shape, it doesn't move fast, but it's stable and I'm happy that I have it. So I would recommend a sit-on-top kayak as opposed to a sit-inside Kayak for the sake of stablility and ease of getting on and off, particularly if you have knee issues. The bigger kayaks that you can peddle, like a Hobie, are most stable of all. HOWEVER they are heavy. The more stable the kayak, the more UNLIKELY you will be able to right it and get back inside if it turns over, which is not an issue until suddenly it is. The peddle-able kayaks are a joy on the water but heavy to lift. I would want to use a trailer. (I use a trailer for my Big Game Prowler). Practically all my kayaking is done on flat, open water. On rivers, the game could change quite a bit.
Those are your trade-offs. I like kayaking alot and for photography, kayaks get you low and close to your subjects. Have fun!
AND:
Get one or more quality heavy-duty dry bags to put your gear in. I'd suggest one that has a zipper and tie points to tether it to your kayak and to buoyancy devices. I have a great one but I can't remember the model # etc. Put your gear in it whenever you're not actively engaged in photography, because that will be when you're most likely not paying attention to your camera gear. For example, if you're paddling a distance to get to where the photography will happen, or when you're paddling in rain just to get back to the car. Even if you can't guarrantee it, you CAN maximize the likelihood that if you lose control of your kayak, your camera gear will stay dry and float.
Thanks. I will do some homework.
 
Back
Top