LensCoat -- yay or nay

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I like to use a lenscoat as a cushion for the lens as well as being quieter and lowering the visibility of the lens. Makes it kinda nice if you rest in a fence post, tree limbs or rocks. If I was presented with a negative situation like high moisture I would remove them and probably reinstall them later. I also don't use the smaller pieces they are mostly an annoyance. I have not put one on 200-500 yet so maybe I will get some wrap.
I used to use a tape that was like medical tape on my bow limbs and other hunting gear. A little more permanent maybe not as cool looking in crowds but effective in knocking down reflections.
 
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I ordered some. know we need someone to video the process and post it here. The product looks good and I have seen it applied to trucks and rifles.

UPDATE: Just received my 3M film and will be trying it out on a lens next week.
 
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I like the Lens Coat more for protection against small nicks and dings than water protection. I only use the bigger pieces though, and not on the control surfaces...so the buttons and focus ring are left bare. Good thought though about use in heavy moisture situations. Will definitely pay attention next time I’m caught in the rain!
 
I am cheap. If I have an area of the lens I am worried about scratching I use gaffers tape. Works great, can get wet and never had it get sticky.
 
I used the Mossy Oak camo decals on my Sigma 150-600 S and the Wimberly gimbal and Gitzo top. Went a little crazy but I was having fun with the stuff. Mine might be a little different as it is too thick to place on the lens zoom area without causing too much friction on the barrel joint. Might get a piece of this to see the difference.
During my "buy camo" spree I picked up a piece of water proof canvas material. Most useful thing per dollar I ever bought. It is good for kneeling/laying on, covering the whole outfit in dusty/sandy locations, keeping the sun off the rig, and a lifesaver = I drape it over everything when I get caught in rain and can't/don't want to stop shooting. A similar one I linked (the one I bought isn't listed anymore). Other things go in and out of the bag but this stays in permanently.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084HL68DW/?tag=backcogaller-20
 
Being out much less often than many of you here I didn't encounter problems with the lens coats so far.
I have it on my 500 f4, because that's the way I got the lens from my friend and I liked it that way. To me it works fine apart from these plastic windows, that I have removed.
My 500PF and the 300PF have got a lens coat as well, also with plastic windows removed.

However, after reading all this here I might take step back and rethink my way of camoulaging and protecting my lenses.

The product in the video @arbitrage mentions is told to be a 3M product and from knowing that I am absolutely confident that it is absolutely UV resistant and comes off without leaving anything behind. I know someone here doing design work with this kind of 3M product on pretty expensive cars. He is really happy with it and has discontinued using similar materials from other manufacturers for these reasons plus its maximum flexibility to use it for complexely shaped surfaces. I would not hesitate to put something like this on a lens. It doesn't provide cushioning of bumps but it is quite durable also against impact with sharp and spiky items like flying stones according to his experience. So it should work great for lens protection when bumping against tree or even a rock or a metal fence.

I have no tele-zoom with moving barrels (any more) but I would be careful with using it on the movable part going in and out the lens body on lenses that still have warranty. If something would come off and they find it in the lens you will most likely pay te repair on your own.
 
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My mossy stuff is on the way, the question I have come up with is, do you put this on the focus ring or other ridged parts? If yes, how?

Are you talking about the medical tape? Since I rarely use manual focus on my Nikon 200-500mm I wrapped it around the focus ring and the area on each side of it (not on the lock switch). But I found that I can actually still turn it if I need to. It grips the focus ring but slides on the smooth surface next to it. Not as easy to turn, but doable in a pinch.
 
Are you talking about the medical tape? Since I rarely use manual focus on my Nikon 200-500mm I wrapped it around the focus ring and the area on each side of it (not on the lock switch). But I found that I can actually still turn it if I need to. It grips the focus ring but slides on the smooth surface next to it. Not as easy to turn, but doable in a pinch.
Talking about the Mossy Oak 3M based stick on graphics.
 
I have LC on my Sigma !50-600C to help protect and camouflage . To help combat any moisture accumulation I keep my D500 attached to the Sigma and store it in a Pelican case. Also in that case I keep a moisture absorbing bag like the little silicate packets you get when unpackaging only much larger. Any thoughts on this? I live in Virginias Blue Ridge, the humidity is abt moderate.
 
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I have LC on my Sigma !50-600C to help protect and camouflage . To help combat any moisture accumulation I keep my D500 attached to the Sigma and store it in a Pelican case. Also in that case I keep a moisture absorbing bag like the little silicate packets you get when unpackaging only much larger.
My Mossy Oaks order arrived today, let the cutting begin!
Alright. Been waiting for this before ordering my own!
 
My initial take. Good for flat surfaces but can't handle compound curves. Would need to make a template and then cut to that. Not sure about the ridged focus ring, I'm on a hold with that. Lens hood is fine on the 600 but needs some extra care for the 500 PF.
 
My initial take. Good for flat surfaces but can't handle compound curves. Would need to make a template and then cut to that. Not sure about the ridged focus ring, I'm on a hold with that. Lens hood is fine on the 600 but needs some extra care for the 500 PF.
Thanks for this; was wondering as were others about the ridged rings.... So I'm gonna save my cash. The LC bit will stay on the hood and for 'protection' I'll have to rely on my being careful (oh oh! :)). As for camo, while pictured here is my ghillie jacket, I have a 3d camo small tarp (in the car at the moment) that I plan to throw over the cam and tripod in this fashion. It's weightless and I've already carried the cam on tripod on shoulder with it and it wasn't particularly in the way, at all, and easy to get my left arm under and drom under without thought.

camo cam.jpg
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This has been an interesting read like most threads in this forum.
I have a lens cover for my 200-500.
Lens cover is to try & stop the sun cooking lens.
I find it stays fairly clean underneath & have not had any trouble from humidity.
The little window on neoprene cover I really dislike.
Mossy Oaks sounds like a great product & I can see it would be a great addition for lens protection yet neoprene cover will stay on my 200-500
 
My initial take. Good for flat surfaces but can't handle compound curves. Would need to make a template and then cut to that. Not sure about the ridged focus ring, I'm on a hold with that. Lens hood is fine on the 600 but needs some extra care for the 500 PF.

Thanks for this. Did you try and remove any part of the material just to be happy that no stickiness or discolouration was left behind ?
 
Because I had to strip my lenses for making photos for the insurance update anymay I went sort of half way back.
I still like to keep the Lenscoat on the front-most parts like the hood and the front part of the barrel, because they are parts being most prone to "unfriendly contacts".
On the other hand I decided to leave of the rear parts facing towards the camera, because they tend to block the memory set buttons on the long primes and my life difficult with the detachable tripod foot on the 300PF. I Also don't use the parts for the focus ring anymore and have made some cut-puts of the front part to make the focus memory recall buttons at the pront panel more accessible.

But after reading some of the posts above, I proabably would give it a try with the 3M Mossy Oaks stuff.

To those that actualls use this product: Did you actually fo the cutting on the lens body ?
 
I will not pay out on another lenscoat as they are poorly made considering the cost. Edges fray and split. The product from this UK outfitters is much better, as proper hems etc using double herring/blanket stitches on all the edges. Their 80-400 G cover has held up well. This company also makes excellent lightweight camouflaged hides, and netting/sheeting, which has lasted well.

I can report the tougher camo tape works well - brand I use is called Gorilla Tape, including to patch / replace a fraying Lenscoat. Basically a kind of camo duct-tape, and very tough. It's much better than the medical stuff, which comes loose after some weeks usage...well at least the stuff I bought, trademarked 'Camo Form'. Gunshops here in S Africa stock both types, as it's used for anti-poaching units on their assault rifles besides hunters.

Outdoor PG in UK also sell a similar product and a self-cling camo tape
 
I will not pay out on another lenscoat as they are poorly made considering the cost. Edges fray and split. The product from this UK outfitters is much better, as proper hems etc using double herring/blanket stitches on all the edges. Their 80-400 G cover has held up well. This company also makes excellent lightweight camouflaged hides, and netting/sheeting, which has lasted well.

I can report the tougher camo tape works well - brand I use is called Gorilla Tape, including to patch / replace a fraying Lenscoat. Basically a kind of camo duct-tape, and very tough. It's much better than the medical stuff, which comes loose after some weeks usage...well at least the stuff I bought, trademarked 'Camo Form'. Gunshops here in S Africa stock both types, as it's used for anti-poaching units on their assault rifles besides hunters.

Outdoor PG in UK also sell a similar product and a self-cling camo tape
Yah my LC came with one of the pieces torn held together only by the surface material threads.
 
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