Soft photos even on tripod

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I also have the Peak Design tripod and it is not what I would consider a stable platform for the equipment you have. I have the aluminum model that I use with a Sony a7R4 plus 200-600, sometimes with 1.4TC. I haven't seen any problems even at 840mm. My theory is that with the body and lens stabilization you don't need a rock-solid tripod, especially because when I handhold, which is most of the time, there's a lot more movement than without a tripod. For me, a tripod is a nice place to rest the camera. So I'm not sure if your "flimsy" tripod even matters since you have IS in the lens. Following the tips others have suggested might help if the problem is related to the tripod.
So it sounds like if the tripod has movement because I might be shooting a bird on the move I should leave VR on? I handhold a lot too and just recently decided to try and het skilled at using the tripod. My hand holding is ok but does result in less than tack sharp photos often. I do the burst so I do tend to grab some that are each time. I just am aiming for consistency.
 
Seeing your sample pic was at f8, I'm not going to blame it on diffraction as I previously guessed. While technically true that it could begin at 5.6 on that camera, the impact would be very gradual and not much impact should be seen at f8.
 
I always use a remote trigger with my D500 and 200-500 lens (especially at 500mm!).

I use this bad boy and leave the fancy expensive trigger in the camera bag! $8 !!

Thanks! Where on the camera body f do yes it plug in?
 
Seeing your sample pic was at f8, I'm not going to blame it on diffraction as I previously guessed. While technically true that it could begin at 5.6 on that camera, the impact would be very gradual and not much impact should be seen at f8.
My theory on f8 is that I’ll gain some sharpness when using this lens as I have noticed that my bird photos will be crisp at the eye and beak and very soft by the time you see the tail. Is this correct thinking?
 
So it sounds like if the tripod has movement because I might be shooting a bird on the move I should leave VR on? I handhold a lot too and just recently decided to try and het skilled at using the tripod. My hand holding is ok but does result in less than tack sharp photos often. I do the burst so I do tend to grab some that are each time. I just am aiming for consistency.
The best thing is to try experiments and see what works best with your equipment. I left IS on with my Canon gear (5D4 and 600 f/4) when on a tripod also and I didn't see any problems. Maybe Nikon is different than Sony or Canon. And I tend to think the Peak Design tripod moves enough (not a complaint, I love it for its lightness and speed) that it would be a good idea to leave VR on... but do the tests.
 
My theory on f8 is that I’ll gain some sharpness when using this lens as I have noticed that my bird photos will be crisp at the eye and beak and very soft by the time you see the tail. Is this correct thinking?
I'm not as up on Nikon lenses, but if the lens I think it is is should be quite sharp wide open as well. You could go on a review site that measures sharpness at different f stops and see how it tests. Diffraction on the other hand is not a property of the lens, but more related to the pixel size of the sensor, the smaller the pixel the sooner diffraction is noticeable as you stop down. But with f8 I'm thinking you should still be good.

Is this the lens we are talking about.

 
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I'm not as up on Nikon lenses, but if the lens I think it is is should be quite sharp wide open as well. You could go on a review site that measures sharpness at different f stops and see how it tests. Diffraction on the other hand is not a property of the lens, but more related to the pixel size of the sensor, the smaller the pixel the sooner diffraction is noticeable as you stop down. But with f8 I'm thinking you should still be good.

Is this the lens we are talking about.

Yes that is the lens I have.
 
I second the recommendation above to shoot some static test targets at home in good light to assess lens sharpness and to minimize technique issues you can run into in the field with live subjects and changing light. Targets can be as simple as household goods with fine text printed on them set up in good light. That kind of testing can tell you if the lens itself is fundamentally sharp and if you use 3D objects or stagger a few front to back you can see if the lens has a front or back focus issue.

IOW, eliminate lens sharpness issues under a controlled environment first and then if you still see soft images in the field, focus on your techniques including things like shutter speed, longs lens techniques, exposure, etc.
Ok. I shot this photo on the tripod with single point on the guy with the red hat. I set the mode to timer so there would be less shutter Botton shake.
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What are your thoughts? Thank you.
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OK. I was thinking the woman in purple should be in focus too but maybe that's not how lenses work?
That depends a lot on the shooting angle and whether that figure in purple falls off the plane of best focus. But that's really a Depth of Field (DoF) issue or possibly a focus fine tune issue depending on where you focused in that image. It's possible your lens is slightly front focusing based on how both the snowman and the boy in red seem pretty sharp but again you can see a lot more detail by zooming into the original than I can see on this resized image. But the key is that at least some parts of the image seem crisp with high contrast, a truly soft lens won't render any of it in crisp focus.
 
A number of folks in this thread have suggested turning VR off on the lens when on tripod. I believe that statement needs qualifying a bit.
I always have VR turned on in sport mode on my 200-500mm lens when on tripod and I can honestly not say I've had any unsharpness result when using shutter speeds of up to 1/1000 sec. I tend to turn VR off when shutter speeds go above 1/1500 sec. The combo is mounted on a gimbal with both friction knobs relatively loose. It has also been said that some lenses tolerate VR being turned on better while on a tripod than some other lenses. I have no experience with the 500mm PF F/5.6 so perhaps it behaves differently to my 200-500mm. I would experiment with VR on the tripod only after you've managed to get the lens performing consistently and repeatably. That way you'll know whether VR affects your sharpness or not.

Eliminate as many variables as possible to begin with; VR off, high shutter speed, practice long lens technique, ensure that exposure is optimal and try to keep ISO as low as possible. High ISO and underexposure will rob you of sharpness. Once you've convinced yourself that your tecnique is not at fault, then perhaps experiment with fine-tuning autofocus. I fine-tuned AF on most of my lenses when I used DSLR's. Now that I'm using a Z6II I've had no need to fine-tune the AF. Also remember, if you mess up the fine-tuning (many folks are afraid of that) you can just turn fine-tuning off again and you're back to where you started, so no harm done.

+1. I agree with Rassie. If in doubt, it often pays to read the manual. For two of my most recent purchases, the AFS 70-200 E f/2.8 and AFS 500 E PF VR the manuals give this advice:

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For an older lens, the AFS 24-120 f4 G, this is the recommendation:
24-120VR.png


So it appears that recommendations by Nikon vary with the lens. With the newer lenses VR may or may not improve the image when one is on a tripod. Other users state that VR is not useful above certain shutter speeds, often 1/500 s or so.

In his Secrets to Wildlife e-book, Steve reports that he leaves VR on regardless of the shutter speed and doesn't lose sleep over the issue. He does state that for longer shutter speeds, 1/10 s or less, VR should be turned off. For tripods he notes that some older Nikkors with VR do not like tripods and he suggests consulting the manual. With an unsecured tripod or with a monopod it may be best to enable VR. In all cases it is best to allow the VR system to stabilize by using a half press of the shutter or back button focus.

Bill
 
That depends a lot on the shooting angle and whether that figure in purple falls off the plane of best focus. But that's really a Depth of Field (DoF) issue or possibly a focus fine tune issue depending on where you focused in that image. It's possible your lens is slightly front focusing based on how both the snowman and the boy in red seem pretty sharp but again you can see a lot more detail by zooming into the original than I can see on this resized image. But the key is that at least some parts of the image seem crisp with high contrast, a truly soft lens won't render any of it in crisp focus.
Thank you. I spoke with a lovely you g man at BH Photo and I think my lens is just fine. Will put more time into technique and various settings. I appreciate the feedback you e given.
 
+1. I agree with Rassie. If in doubt, it often pays to read the manual. For two of my most recent purchases, the AFS 70-200 E f/2.8 and AFS 500 E PF VR the manuals give this advice:

View attachment 17727

For an older lens, the AFS 24-120 f4 G, this is the recommendation:
View attachment 17728

So it appears that recommendations by Nikon vary with the lens. With the newer lenses VR may or may not improve the image when one is on a tripod. Other users state that VR is not useful above certain shutter speeds, often 1/500 s or so.

In his Secrets to Wildlife e-book, Steve reports that he leaves VR on regardless of the shutter speed and doesn't lose sleep over the issue. He does state that for longer shutter speeds, 1/10 s or less, VR should be turned off. For tripods he notes that some older Nikkors with VR do not like tripods and he suggests consulting the manual. With an unsecured tripod or with a monopod it may be best to enable VR. In all cases it is best to allow the VR system to stabilize by using a half press of the shutter or back button focus.

Bill
Thank you. I read his book and will probably be leaving it on as even though I am on a tripod the birds are often not stationary and my camera is moving with the birds.
 
Most of the time when I am shooting with camera and lens mounted on a tripod I am using a gimbal head that is loose so I can pivot it any direction I need to so I leave the VR on in that situation and never have had a problem with getting sharp photos, (within the limits of the lens). However I did try to shoot some moon shots with my D850 and 200-500 with 1.4 TC and forgot to turn the VR off and they were all blurry. So in my experience if you have the camera/lens locked down tight on a tripod by all means turn of the VR but if you are going loosy goosy leave it on.
 
Most of the time when I am shooting with camera and lens mounted on a tripod I am using a gimbal head that is loose so I can pivot it any direction I need to so I leave the VR on in that situation and never have had a problem with getting sharp photos, (within the limits of the lens). However I did try to shoot some moon shots with my D850 and 200-500 with 1.4 TC and forgot to turn the VR off and they were all blurry. So in my experience if you have the camera/lens locked down tight on a tripod by all means turn of the VR but if you are going loosy goosy leave it on.
Try the moon shot again with VR turned on, but focus on the edge of the moon where some of the blackness outside the moon provides contrast. I could never get sharp images of the moon until I shot a half-moon and included some of the dark side under the focus point. In my case there was not enough contrast in the bright part of the moon for the camera to achieve good focus on the lit part of the moon alone.
 
Try the moon shot again with VR turned on, but focus on the edge of the moon where some of the blackness outside the moon provides contrast. I could never get sharp images of the moon until I shot a half-moon and included some of the dark side under the focus point. In my case there was not enough contrast in the bright part of the moon for the camera to achieve good focus on the lit part of the moon alone.
I am afraid on the time I was talking about it was because of the VR being left on, the blur was definitely from movement and not a focus error, when I saw the shots on my computer monitor that is when I realized that I had left the VR on. I tried some shots the next night and remembered to turn it off and those were sharp. This photo is one of the sharp ones, well sharp within the limits of the 200-500 Nikkor lens with the 1.4 TC. Unfortunately I deleted all the blurry ones so I can't show you that. Thanks for the advise though, I will certainly keep that in mind next time I try this.
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I have the d500 and the new 500 prime lens. I’m learning to shoot on my tripod rather than handholding and am still finding my photos soft even with shutter speed at 1000 and above. Two questions. To use VR mode while on tripod. I’ve heard both arguments and am looking for personal experience. I’ve been leaving it on. Next shoot I’ll try both ways. Second question. Could my lens need calibrating? Thanks.
You dont need VR on a tripod but it shouldn't make a major difference.
Nikon lenses are usually pretty spot on when new.
Make sure your shutter speed is high enough and maybe a smaller aperture (less wide open) to give a greater depth of field...
 
I really don't think this has anything to do with whether or not vr was on or off, to me this looks like a number of variables such as inadequate light, the original image is quite dark. Can you provide your exif data such as SS, AP, ISO and any EV if used.? Also is the original that you posted first cropped? How far away from the bird were you?
 
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