The #1 Sharpness Killer For Wildlife Shooters

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Steve

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As wildlife and bird photographers, we will go to just about any length to secure tack-sharp photos of our subjects. However, there's one insidious cause of blurry wildlife and bird photos that often files under the radar - and is the #1 reason for sharpness problems with long glass.

The issue? Heat refraction, heat haze, heat shimmer - it goes by a half dozen names but the bottom line is that it's killing your sharpness. In this video, we'll talk about what it is, what causes it, how it affects your photos, where / when it's most common, and what YOU can do about it!

 
I’m sure 90%+ of IQ complaints on the internet are because of this.
It sure seems like it - I had an old version of this video but the older they are the less likely YT is to show it. So, I updated, added some new info and tada! Hopefully it will help at least some people solve their sharpness problems :)
 
Excellent video, Steve. A must see for new long glass users (and even many of us old codgers). I've been shooting long glass for about twelve years and gradually learned what you've captured so succinctly in this video. Even with this experience, I still run into situations that surprise. I often shoot birds from my deck into a wooded area across shady lawn. I've found that even if I'm in the shade, just shooting over a 6" wide sun-baked deck railing will ruin photos because of the heat refraction. Your tips are all spot on.
 
Good reminder, Steve! I recall a couple of summers ago that an entire set of photos I’d taken of mourning doves were affected by heat haze. Out of several hundred only one or two were usable.
 
Even if this is a redo of an old vid, I'm still happy to see it. People keep being bamboozled, and it's always a headache when people don't believe it.

Good mentioning the lens hood too, because that also bites people a lot.
I'm actually thinking about revisiting many of my popular / important old video topics. Adding some new info and trying to keep at the top of the video pile for the topics :) YT used to not care as much about the publication date of a video and would still include it when relevant, but they seem to be favoring newer content now more than in the past.
 
I'm actually thinking about revisiting many of my popular / important old video topics. Adding some new info and trying to keep at the top of the video pile for the topics :) YT used to not care as much about the publication date of a video and would still include it when relevant, but they seem to be favoring newer content now more than in the past.
I think this would be a good idea anyway.

Also get nikon to bundle links to your videos and set up guides with their cameras.
 
I notice this problem when I am taking landscape photos with a telephoto lens. Heat refraction over open water is very common. I am not exactly sure why this seems to be more of a problem now than it was in the past, but it seems to be. Perhaps better lenses and higher-resolution sensors along with warmer average temperatures than in the past?

BTW, interesting video!
 
I'm actually thinking about revisiting many of my popular / important old video topics. Adding some new info and trying to keep at the top of the video pile for the topics :) YT used to not care as much about the publication date of a video and would still include it when relevant, but they seem to be favoring newer content now more than in the past.
I think that's a great idea.

There are some real gems in your earlier videos and more than once we've seen folks here or elsewhere on the internet question whether basics like exposure management or the impact of cropping, the need to be smart about AF modes in challenging situations or appropriate shutter speeds for action work still apply with today's cameras and sensors. IOW, there seems to be some reluctance to recognize basics on the belief that the newest gear overcomes the basics.
 
Just got back from a week in Yellowstone and boy was this a problem. Mornings were as low as 9 degrees, afternoons up to 50 degrees, and it was usually windy. We started at 5:30am each morning. We were shooting over open areas from the road, usually on the animal side (so we weren't shooting across the road). Lens hood off on first shots. Most of the time I was using a 800 pf and my son was using a 200-500. Time after time we had great sightings but soft photos. Both lenses had the same results (it's not just an 800PF thing!). Very frustrating when there is nothing you can do. If I shot a bird in a nearby tree, sharp as a tack. Fortunately we had a couple of close encounters with wolves and were able to get some acceptable photos.
 
Great update on this subject that puts a number of your others into one!!

It is absolutely the biggest single softness issue I deal with in helping out new long lens owners and new birders on birding field trips and just inquiries.

I got the pleasure of dealing with a lot of it yesterday in the high sage steppe on an unusually sunny warm morning after a cool humid evening with a lot of new low growing green grasses and forbs :) The target birds were most active well after sun up. Bingo atmospheric distortion on a mammoth scale while trying to photograph small birds running around on the ground, sitting in sage brush, flying to close to the ground (song lyric now an ear worm).

A Northern Harrier skimming low over the ground looking for breakfast etc.. Jackrabbits, cottontails and more were abundant and abundantly shimmery :)

An enjoyable hike in a favorite place and my wife got a new life bird for her but it was a "challenging" day for testing her new Z28-400mm lens. I worked hard to help her stalk close and stand by brush and wait for the birds and rabbits to come closer :cool:
 
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... I am not exactly sure why this seems to be more of a problem now than it was in the past, but it seems to be. Perhaps better lenses and higher-resolution sensors along with warmer average temperatures than in the past?
My theory: longer lenses are more accessible than in the past, so more people are expecting sharp photos at a greater distance; greater distance = more opportunities for atmospheric distortion to be a factor.
 
As wildlife and bird photographers, we will go to just about any length to secure tack-sharp photos of our subjects. However, there's one insidious cause of blurry wildlife and bird photos that often files under the radar - and is the #1 reason for sharpness problems with long glass.

The issue? Heat refraction, heat haze, heat shimmer - it goes by a half dozen names but the bottom line is that it's killing your sharpness. In this video, we'll talk about what it is, what causes it, how it affects your photos, where / when it's most common, and what YOU can do about it!

Very timely video Steve. 😉
 
My theory: longer lenses are more accessible than in the past, so more people are expecting sharp photos at a greater distance; greater distance = more opportunities for atmospheric distortion to be a factor.
Also images are sharper and blown up on pcs to check for sharpness more.

In the days of 8mp shots on digital, the tools just weren't there and low res (and worse lenses) covered up a lot.

Standards have also risen.
 
I think that's a great idea.

There are some real gems in your earlier videos and more than once we've seen folks here or elsewhere on the internet question whether basics like exposure management or the impact of cropping, the need to be smart about AF modes in challenging situations or appropriate shutter speeds for action work still apply with today's cameras and sensors. IOW, there seems to be some reluctance to recognize basics on the belief that the newest gear overcomes the basics.
Agree 100%. It's funny, I just had a guy comment on the YT video that now we have AI, as if that's going to fix heat refraction. There's a lot of people who think tech overcomes having fundamental knowledge, but of course that's not the case.
 
My theory: longer lenses are more accessible than in the past, so more people are expecting sharp photos at a greater distance; greater distance = more opportunities for atmospheric distortion to be a factor.
I agree - it wasn't that long ago that our choices were some kind of 70-300 or an exotic.
 
Very informative article! Sad that we can't throw money at it with better gear nor fix it in post. Could be the next revolution in photo ai?
 
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