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If I record using H265 10 bit @ 120p and process in DVR... and have several short clips that I want to use in a video.


1. For viewing on regular monitors , does 120p look bad/jerky ? How do I fix that.

2. Can I take certain clips (or part of a clip?) and slow it down to slo-mo ?

3. What do I output the video to for sharing on the internet?
 
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Butlerkid said:
If I record using H265 10 bit @ 120p and process in DVR... and have several short clips that I want to use in a video.


1. For viewing on regular monitors , does 120p look bad/jerky ? How do I fix that.

2. Can I take certain clips (or part of a clip?) and slow it down to slo-mo ?

3. What do I output the video to for sharing on the internet?
Click to expand...
1. Not sure how you are processing these, but most players will show you video at 30fps, so video shot at 120 fps (using shutter speed 1/250), will be 4X slow mo.
2. Almost all processing programs allow you to do part at normal speed and part slow-mo. I use iMovie and often put parts at different speeds. Even within on clip one can split the clip and do slo-mo for part and do a reset speed for the other. The only thing that becomes problematic is the sound. If you want the original sound, you can detach it and reset to normal speed, otherwise the sound is altered in slo-mo.
3. It depends on the website. Many postings have size and/or length limits, which can vary depending if you are a member. And very few allow 4K postings. I often post on multiple sites, one of which is Youtube which is the only one I traditionally post which allows 4K (so for flickr and instagram, I post a 1K version). The others will downsize and thus it is better to export the video from your processing program in the size allowed for posting.
 
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ricardo00 said:
1. Not sure how you are processing these, but most players will show you video at 30fps, so video shot at 120 fps (using shutter speed 1/250), will be 4X slow mo.
2. Almost all processing programs allow you to do part at normal speed and part slow-mo. I use iMovie and often put parts at different speeds. Even within on clip one can split the clip and do slo-mo for part and do a reset speed for the other. The only thing that becomes problematic is the sound. If you want the original sound, you can detach it and reset to normal speed, otherwise the sound is altered in slo-mo.
3. It depends on the website. Many postings have size and/or length limits, which can vary depending if you are a member. And very few allow 4K postings. I often post on multiple sites, one of which is Youtube which is the only one I traditionally post which allows 4K (so for flickr and instagram, I post a 1K version). The others will downsize and thus it is better to export the video from your processing program in the size allowed for posting.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Appreciate the help!!!! I just wanted to make sure my capture settings were adequate for the intended processing. (I specified DVR (DaVinci Resolve). I have downloaded DVR and will begin watching a few tutorial videos.
 
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FWIW - post #28 has the current settings I've put into my Z8.....

To keep controls similar to my stills shooting, I have the Record On/Off on the shutter and the Video button to Cycle AF Modes....
 
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Butlerkid said:
FWIW - post #28 has the current settings I've put into my Z8.....

To keep controls similar to my stills shooting, I have the Record On/Off on the shutter and the Video button to Cycle AF Modes....
Click to expand...
Ok, didn't check back. Personally I found it confusing using the shutter button to take video since for video I usually don't do things (ie. adjust settings, just let it go. I found myself pressing the shutter button, then pressing it again, etc which would stop the video). So for my simple mind, it worked better using the video button to start video and shutter button for stills. But am sure if you get used to it, one can do it the other way and use the same button to shoot as to start video.
 
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Butlerkid said:
FWIW - post #28 has the current settings I've put into my Z8.....

To keep controls similar to my stills shooting, I have the Record On/Off on the shutter and the Video button to Cycle AF Modes....
Click to expand...

Re jerky footage, that's mostly a function of shutter angle, so as long as you stick to 120fps and 1/250, you're okay. If you go 120 and 1/1000, it will be jerky. If you go 120 and 1/60, it will be weirdly blurry.

Changing speeds within a clip is called "speed ramping," very easy and here is a quick tutorial:
. But there are thousands.

Re output, depends where you post it. They don't tell, but YouTube and Insta favor high quality footage, so while they don't display 8k, it's possible to upload it and let them downsample to 4k. It gets ranked higher by the algorithm.
 
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Butlerkid said:
FWIW - post #28 has the current settings I've put into my Z8.....

To keep controls similar to my stills shooting, I have the Record On/Off on the shutter and the Video button to Cycle AF Modes....
Click to expand...
I thought under H265 you didn’t need to start at ISO 800?
Have you tested the need for an ND filter?
What button are you using to set focus? I discovered if I have the Shutter button focus too I can set my initial focus point and then AF-ON as BBF to turn focus on again. For wildlife probably need to keep it pressed.
 
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BarkingBeans Coffee said:
I thought under H265 you didn’t need to start at ISO 800?
Have you tested the need for an ND filter?
What button are you using to set focus? I discovered if I have the Shutter button focus too I can set my initial focus point and then AF-ON as BBF to turn focus on again. For wildlife probably need to keep it pressed.
Click to expand...

Native ISO will always produce the cleanest video with highest dynamic range and exposure latitude. If you're at all worried about not nailing exposure and/or bringing up shadows in post, stick to it.
 
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Nimi said:
Native ISO will always produce the cleanest video with highest dynamic range and exposure latitude. If you're at all worried about not nailing exposure and/or bringing up shadows in post, stick to it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for clarifying. Makes the need for ND filters that much higher then when shooting outdoors. And it means you have to pay attention to aperture which is a new mental model rather than letting ISO float. What do you do if you are say in a coffee shop with strong light coming in, how do you adjust for that as you pan around?
 
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Nimi said:
Re jerky footage, that's mostly a function of shutter angle, so as long as you stick to 120fps and 1/250, you're okay. If you go 120 and 1/1000, it will be jerky. If you go 120 and 1/60, it will be weirdly blurry.

Changing speeds within a clip is called "speed ramping," very easy and here is a quick tutorial:
. But there are thousands.

Re output, depends where you post it. They don't tell, but YouTube and Insta favor high quality footage, so while they don't display 8k, it's possible to upload it and let them downsample to 4k. It gets ranked higher by the algorithm.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the link! Really appreciate it! The Z8 records 3840 x 2160 120 p as UHD 4K. Would it be better to shoot 1920X1080; 120p ?

1712353931184.png


1712353865975.png
 
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Butlerkid said:
Thank you so much for the link! Really appreciate it! The Z8 records 3840 x 2160 120 p as UHD 4K. Would it be better to shoot 1920X1080; 120p ?

View attachment 86008

View attachment 86007
Click to expand...
Personally I shoot at highest resolution so I can crop in post. Also, i almost always upload to social media at highest resolution, file-size permitting. Editing in 8k (not applicable for 120fps) timeline can be cumbersome depending on your computer, but thats where learning proxies (another rabbit hole). Just watch out for card filling up.
 
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BarkingBeans Coffee said:
Thanks for clarifying. Makes the need for ND filters that much higher then when shooting outdoors. And it means you have to pay attention to aperture which is a new mental model rather than letting ISO float. What do you do if you are say in a coffee shop with strong light coming in, how do you adjust for that as you pan around?
Click to expand...

Aperture is the only way to change exposure, but it changes the image.

I carry a set of 2 Nisi variable NDs going from 1 to 8 stops or fix it in post. As long as the exposure is nailed, some overblown highlights are okay in video (eg lamps or windows). Halation filter or a plug-in removes the harsh blown-out areas which can be unpleasant on a digital sensor, as opposed to film. I use Bloom gold mist filter and FilmConvert Halation plug-in in post.
 
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Nimi said:
Personally I shoot at highest resolution so I can crop in post. Also, i almost always upload to social media at highest resolution, file-size permitting. Editing in 8k (not applicable for 120fps) timeline can be cumbersome depending on your computer, but thats where learning proxies (another rabbit hole). Just watch out for card filling up.
Click to expand...
I have an 2011 30" NEC 2560x1600 monitor, 14 bit LUT.....will that be adequate to work with 3840x2160 video?

My PC specs are on a 500 GB SSD drive C:
AMD Ryzen 9 3900x, 3.8 GHz, 12 core 105W CPU, Gigabyte X570 AORUS Ultra motherboard, 32 GB DDR4-2666 RAM, EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Super XC 8 GB Open Air video card, EVGA SuperNOVA 650W G+ Pwr Supply, CPU cooling=Noctura NH-U12S, Fractal Design R6 USB-C black case​

I also have a separate D: scratch disk that is a 1 TB SSD......
 
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Butlerkid said:
I have an 2011 30" NEC 2560x1600 monitor, 14 bit LUT.....will that be adequate to work with 3840x2160 video?

My PC specs are on a 500 GB SSD drive C:
AMD Ryzen 9 3900x, 3.8 GHz, 12 core 105W CPU, Gigabyte X570 AORUS Ultra motherboard, 32 GB DDR4-2666 RAM, EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Super XC 8 GB Open Air video card, EVGA SuperNOVA 650W G+ Pwr Supply, CPU cooling=Noctura NH-U12S, Fractal Design R6 USB-C black case​

I also have a separate D: scratch disk that is a 1 TB SSD......
Click to expand...
Yes. Your output will be higher quality than what you can see. As part of my workflow, I upload the video to Google Drive and watch it on my phone before uploading it to the internet.
 
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Nimi said:
Yes. Your output will be higher quality than what you can see. As part of my workflow, I upload the video to Google Drive and watch it on my phone before uploading it to the internet.
Click to expand...
DRATS! I thought there might be some rationale to upgrade my monitor. ;) The NEC just continues to do well!
 
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Nimi said:
Aperture is the only way to change exposure, but it changes the image.

I carry a set of 2 Nisi variable NDs going from 1 to 8 stops or fix it in post. As long as the exposure is nailed, some overblown highlights are okay in video (eg lamps or windows). Halation filter or a plug-in removes the harsh blown-out areas which can be unpleasant on a digital sensor, as opposed to film. I use Bloom gold mist filter and FilmConvert Halation plug-in in post.
Click to expand...
So if aperture is the only way, how do you judge exposure?
I just turned on the equivalent of the histogram but I am not sure what I seeing/reading there. Any reference on how to read it that the novices here should learn from. I think I may need to make it bigger -I know I saw a setting.

Thanks again. I am on a non-wildlife trip and keep experimenting. In Blue Bottle Coffee this morning which probably won’t surprise people.
 
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BarkingBeans Coffee said:
So if aperture is the only way, how do you judge exposure?
I just turned on the equivalent of the histogram but I am not sure what I seeing/reading there. Any reference on how to read it that the novices here should learn from. I think I may need to make it bigger -I know I saw a setting.

Thanks again. I am on a non-wildlife trip and keep experimenting. In Blue Bottle Coffee this morning which probably won’t surprise people.
Click to expand...
I think Zebras and histogram are the only internal tools you have. Or just judge it by what you see on the screen, look for clipping. If it looks good, It's probably good and you can dial it in in post. The camera has a good exposure latitude so if you're off by a stop, a stop and a half, no biggie.

Personally, I use a 5in external monitor and toggle between waveform and false color which give a very accurate exposure reading at a glance. It's also useful to me because it can stretch an anamorphic lens and I can upload LUTs to see the approximate look I am shooting for. But it's cumbersome.
 
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Gene_Hughes said:
Waveform metering is internally available on the Z9.
Click to expand...
What does that mean? Sorry for such rudimentary questions...... Are you referring to the methodology of detecting zebra stripes/blinkies? I use the histogram as a guide in stills. Never liked zebras but guess I may appreciate them with video.
 
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Karen it’s like the histogram. I need to research how to read it. You have a choice in settings of regulate or large size. If anyone has a good reference on how to read it please post it.
 
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