What did I do wrong! I need your help please!

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

Activert

Activert

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Marketplace
Member's gallery
I was last weekend on the Kancagamus Highway, New Hampshire photographing and doing some videos of the Fall Colors. I don’t usually do much videos, but this time I really wanted to try with some falls and rocky rivers where the water is flowing beautifully around rocks and you can hear the sound of the water very loud. I thought I did good job and I was shooting on tripod. When I got home I was excited to watch my videos. Surprise, they are awful. The flowing water seems jumping and I don’t know what was wrong with my shooting. I used my Z 9 with Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S and Z 70-200 f2.8 S lenses. I was shooting 10 bits 24 P. To be honest, I don’t know much about setting videos and I tried to apply what Hudson Henry proposed in his videos.
So please help me if you can by telling me how to fix the problem of jumping images and what it is the best set up for landscape and wildlife videos. I always appreciate your help and your advice. Thank you!
 
Member's gallery
Activert said:
I was last weekend on the Kancagamus Highway, New Hampshire photographing and doing some videos of the Fall Colors. I don’t usually do much videos, but this time I really wanted to try with some falls and rocky rivers where the water is flowing beautifully around rocks and you can hear the sound of the water very loud. I thought I did good job and I was shooting on tripod. When I got home I was excited to watch my videos. Surprise, they are awful. The flowing water seems jumping and I don’t know what was wrong with my shooting. I used my Z 9 with Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S and Z 70-200 f2.8 S lenses. I was shooting 10 bits 24 P. To be honest, I don’t know much about setting videos and I tried to apply what Hudson Henry proposed in his videos.
So please help me if you can by telling me how to fix the problem of jumping images and what it is the best set up for landscape and wildlife videos. I always appreciate your help and your advice. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Most likely shutter angle. What was your shutter speed? It should be approximately twice your fps, so if you shoot 24, it should be at 50, which is hard to do in daylight, iso 800 without an ND filter.
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
Most likely shutter angle. What was your shutter speed? It should be approximately twice your fps, so if you shoot 24, it should be at 50, which is hard to do in daylight, iso 800 without an ND filter.
Click to expand...
I opened it with QuickTime movie and I don't see the shunter speed anywhere. But I think you are right. It must be my shunter speed, I was trying to do long exposition before I shoot my video and I did not change my setting. I t must has been very low shunter. Thank you!
When you say the shuter must be the double of the frame, we don't take in consideration the focal? If you do video what it is the best setting for wildlife and landscape (4K and 8K)?
Thank you again
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
Most likely shutter angle. What was your shutter speed? It should be approximately twice your fps, so if you shoot 24, it should be at 50, which is hard to do in daylight, iso 800 without an ND filter.
Click to expand...

Activert said:
Thank you! I will try to posted here, I don't know if it will work!
Click to expand...
The smallest video is 24s and more than 1GB. I could not post it
 
Member's gallery
Activert said:
I was last weekend on the Kancagamus Highway, New Hampshire photographing and doing some videos of the Fall Colors. I don’t usually do much videos, but this time I really wanted to try with some falls and rocky rivers where the water is flowing beautifully around rocks and you can hear the sound of the water very loud. I thought I did good job and I was shooting on tripod. When I got home I was excited to watch my videos. Surprise, they are awful. The flowing water seems jumping and I don’t know what was wrong with my shooting. I used my Z 9 with Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S and Z 70-200 f2.8 S lenses. I was shooting 10 bits 24 P. To be honest, I don’t know much about setting videos and I tried to apply what Hudson Henry proposed in his videos.
So please help me if you can by telling me how to fix the problem of jumping images and what it is the best set up for landscape and wildlife videos. I always appreciate your help and your advice. Thank you!
Click to expand...

Activert said:
I opened it with QuickTime movie and I don't see the shunter speed anywhere. But I think you are right. It must be my shunter speed, I was trying to do long exposition before I shoot my video and I did not change my setting. I t must has been very low shunter. Thank you!
When you say the shuter must be the double of the frame, we don't take in consideration the focal? If you do video what it is the best setting for wildlife and landscape (4K and 8K)?
Thank you again
Click to expand...
Generalizing, for videography, the shutter is not used to control exposure. And neither is ISO. You set ISO at native, for z9 it's 800. You set frame rate, typically 24, 25, 30, 60 or 120. You set the shutter speed at 2x that (so 50, 60, or 240). So for outdoors and daylight, you pretty much have to use an ND filter.

The files get big fast depending on resolution, but for most applications you can use a smaller file size setting like 1080; 24. I'd stick with H.265 10-bit. Depending on how much you plan to shoot, get a bigger card or even an external recorder (I used an Atomos Ninja + and a big SSD)
 
Member's gallery
Activert said:
I opened it with QuickTime movie and I don't see the shunter speed anywhere. But I think you are right. It must be my shunter speed, I was trying to do long exposition before I shoot my video and I did not change my setting. I t must has been very low shunter. Thank you!
When you say the shuter must be the double of the frame, we don't take in consideration the focal? If you do video what it is the best setting for wildlife and landscape (4K and 8K)?
Thank you again
Click to expand...
8k and 4k is not necessary for almost all web-based viewings. Most applications will compress it to HD or Full HD. If you have the space AND you post-process AND you have a computer that can handle those files, there are other reasons to shoot at high resolution, namely electronic shake reduction, cropping, electronic panning and zooming, and even downsampling.

My video work is predominantly for social media ads. Shoot 4 and 8k to an external recorder, then downsample to 1080 (Full HD) after I finish editing in Premier. That reduces a 30 sec reel to about 30mp that can be easily be moved around and uploaded to Instagram.
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
Generalizing, for videography, the shutter is not used to control exposure. And neither is ISO. You set ISO at native, for z9 it's 800. You set frame rate, typically 24, 25, 30, 60 or 120. You set the shutter speed at 2x that (so 50, 60, or 240). So for outdoors and daylight, you pretty much have to use an ND filter.

The files get big fast depending on resolution, but for most applications you can use a smaller file size setting like 1080; 24. I'd stick with H.265 10-bit. Depending on how much you plan to shoot, get a bigger card or even an external recorder (I used an Atomos Ninja + and a big SSD)
Click to expand...
Thank you sooooo much. It is so nice from you to give all the good information. I will go tomorrow out and practice using the setting you gave me.
 
Member's gallery
Normally high resolution is used for video to get the best quality even after outputting in a lower resolution during g post processing
Try to go full manual & use a colour profile to get better dynamic range
Do get familiar with post processing & to start with try open source software Openshot for video processing
You may also need to use a converter software since many out of the camera formats may not be standard & video editing software may not recognise them
Thom hagans ebook on Z9 is a good starting point to under stand video features of Z9
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
8k and 4k is not necessary for almost all web-based viewings. Most applications will compress it to HD or Full HD. If you have the space AND you post-process AND you have a computer that can handle those files, there are other reasons to shoot at high resolution, namely electronic shake reduction, cropping, electronic panning and zooming, and even downsampling.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but as the cliche goes, skate to where the puck is going to be, not to where it has been.

It's totally reasonable for pros making lots of web content month after month to focus on 1080p right now, but hobbyists and enthusiasts may want to challenge themselves to move past that for all the usual image quality and future-proofing reasons, not to mention the sheer joy of the craft.

And speaking of IQ- I know a lot of folks argue there's no significant viewing difference between 1080p and 4K, but in my own personal experience I can quickly see the difference between 1080p and 4K on Youtube, on both my computer monitor (24" 4K) and TV (65" 4K).

A well-produced 4K video that plays to 4K's strengths is a joy to behold IMHO. An easy example is most of Kraig Adam's work on YouTube. For example, Hiking 60 Miles Alone in Hornstrandir Iceland, and in my own backyard, Solo Hiking 20 Miles on The Mt Whitney Trail. I know from his live streams that he doesn't even bother with 180º shutter angles and ND filters, but he gets away with it because most of his non-drone shots are set on tripods with zero camera movement and very slow subject movement.
 
Last edited:
Member's gallery
Venkatesh VT said:
Normally high resolution is used for video to get the best quality even after outputting in a lower resolution during g post processing
Try to go full manual & use a colour profile to get better dynamic range
Do get familiar with post processing & to start with try open source software Openshot for video processing
You may also need to use a converter software since many out of the camera formats may not be standard & video editing software may not recognise them
Thom hagans ebook on Z9 is a good starting point to under stand video features of Z9
Click to expand...
Thank you so much!
 
Member's gallery
kimball said:
Yeah, but as the cliche goes, skate to where the puck is going to be, not to where it has been.

It's totally reasonable for pros making lots of web content month after month to focus on 1080p right now, but hobbyists and enthusiasts may want to challenge themselves to move past that for all the usual image quality and future-proofing reasons, not to mention the sheer joy of the craft.

And speaking of IQ- I know a lot of folks argue there's no significant viewing difference between 1080p and 4K, but in my own personal experience I can quickly see the difference between 1080p and 4K on Youtube, on both my computer monitor (24" 4K) and TV (65" 4K).

A well-produced 4K video that plays to 4K's strengths is a joy to behold IMHO. An easy example is most of Kraig Adam's work on YouTube. For example, Hiking 60 Miles Alone in Hornstrandir Iceland, and in my own backyard, Solo Hiking 20 Miles on The Mt Whitney Trail. I know from his live streams that he doesn't even bother with 180º shutter angles and ND filters, but he gets away with it because most of his non-drone shots are set on tripods with zero camera movement and very slow subject movement.
Click to expand...
100% agree. If YouTube is the goal, 4k is the way to go. My setting suggestions are just that, suggestions.

As far as my own settings, I stick with 24 fps and 180 shutter angle but that's a personal choice for my looks and my clients.

Most specifically to the question asked, jittery playback is typically a shutter angle, my guess is below 60.
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
100% agree. If YouTube is the goal, 4k is the way to go. My setting suggestions are just that, suggestions.

As far as my own settings, I stick with 24 fps and 180 shutter angle but that's a personal choice for my looks and my clients.

Most specifically to the question asked, jittery playback is typically a shutter angle, my guess is below 60.
Click to expand...
Sorry- didn't mean to sound like I was disagreeing with your shutter angle recommendations. When I'm in full video-geek-out mode I also shoot at 180 and carry magnetic NDs for that task. I absolutely cannot stand jittery panning or jittery fast motion. I guess it was dawning on me that Kraig Adam's style of videography features so little motion that he doesn't need to worry about shutter angle, and the lack of motion really plays to 4K's strength in resolving fine detail, which would otherwise be blurred by camera movement or more dynamic scenes in general. My own little "aha!" moment. :)
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
Actually, if dynamic range is the goal, you would NOT use a color profile but rather shoot in N RAW at native ISO and make it pop in post.
Click to expand...
While this is mostly true there are colour profiles like Sony Cinetone which have better dynamic range with little post processing requirements
Pure raw video files do require more post processing
I am yet to deep dive into Z9 ( presently I use A1 for videos though I have Z9 too)
 
Member's gallery
Venkatesh VT said:
While this is mostly true there are colour profiles like Sony Cinetone which have better dynamic range with little post processing requirements
Pure raw video files do require more post processing
I am yet to deep dive into Z9 ( presently I use A1 for videos though I have Z9 too)
Click to expand...
I dont think you mean dynamic range. Cinetone is a great profile, but you lose 2 stops of dynamic range vs the RAW (which are not recoverable). On any video camera, RAW files are low-contrast and "flat" but have the highest dynamic range for a given ISO and are far easier to work with. Profiles give you a certain finished look out of camera at the expense of dynamic range and degree of editability. Analogous to RAW and JPEG for stills.

Edit: I'm using the term NRAW but for most practical applications I mean NLOG.
 
Last edited:
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
I dont think you mean dynamic range. Cinetone is a great profile, but you lose 2 stops of dynamic range vs the S-LOG3 (which are not recoverable). On any video camera, RAW files are low-contrast and "flat" but have the highest dynamic range for a given ISO and are far easier to work with. Profiles give you a certain finished look out of camera at the expense of dynamic range and degree of editability. Analogous to RAW and JPEG for stills.
Click to expand...
In my post I have compared picture profile like Cunetone with a standard profile & not with Log profiles (which as you have mentioned have the best dynamic range)
I use Cinetone & am happy with the results with out the need to post process
I don’t know whether Z9 also has a similar picture profile
 
Member's gallery
Nimi said:
Most likely shutter angle. What was your shutter speed? It should be approximately twice your fps, so if you shoot 24, it should be at 50, which is hard to do in daylight, iso 800 without an ND filter.
Click to expand...
Why the iso should be 800? Can we use lower iso and avoid ND filter?
 
Member's gallery
I don't think you can really beat getting a proper camcorder for video. it is so much easier zooming in/out without thinking of having to change a lens

OK this is a site for cameras so my apologies for putting up these video for the OP which might just help.. These was taken hand held on a Panasonic HC-X1500 with an Azden SMX-30v stereo microphone.
I have tried many times doing video with a Nikon D810 with little success in comparison.
another one I took recently in Iceiand as shot, no editing

All i can say is this camcorder is amazing for dayight videos but not for indoors in a poorly lite room without extra lighting due to the small sensor
 
Last edited:
Member's gallery
realspeed said:
I don't think you can really beat getting a proper camcorder for video. it is so much easier zooming in/out without thinking of having to change a lens

OK this is a site for cameras so my apologies for putting up these video for the OP which might just help.. These was taken hand held on a Panasonic HC-X1500 with an Azden SMX-30v stereo microphone.
I have tried many times doing video with a Nikon D810 with little success in comparison.
another one I took recently in Iceiand as shot, no editing

All i can say is this camcorder is amazing for dayight videos but not for indoors in a poorly lite room without extra lighting due to the small sensor
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top