Why do mirrorless cameras struggle with red?

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So if there was a lens filter that only allowed red light to pass, these cameras could not autofocus?
I cant honestly answer that. That is way over my head. Lol. I’m even notice this not to the extent of birds but whenever doing macro shots of red roses that the camera struggles to focus at times but again, maybe it’s just nature of the beast or I’m an idiot lol.
 
It’s just really hard for me to believe of the hundreds of thousands of bird images I’ve taken over the last 22 years and multiple bodies and lenses I’ve shot with an owned that I have suddenly developed an impediment for shooting red subjects lol. Like I also said earlier in the thread, it is more prominent when there is more green in the surroundings of the subject.

It is interesting. Every red is not only red though. If you hover the mouse in lightroom you can see the rgb components of what is below the cursor. Maybe there is a threshold of green and blue needed. Light red for example might be 100% red, 30% green, 30% blue.

 
So if there was a lens filter that only allowed red light to pass, these cameras could not autofocus?
As I understand it the linear and cross point AF sensors really focus in gray scale but yes those that sit behind red filters would have that grayscale light attenuated. Still, focus is at edges, often the edges between the color of the subject and the darker eyes so there should still be a grayscale difference on those edges.

It seems to me if the photosites dedicated to AF sensing sit behind red filters then the red portions (e.g. red feathers on a bird) would be sensed at much lower light levels than other colors but there should still be edge contrast at the eyes, the beak or whatever edge is under the active AF area but that contrast would be muted compared to other edge colors that aren't as heavily attenuated by the bayer filter color sitting in front of the photosites in question.

So I'd expect if you placed a red filter on the lens and assuming that Them Hogan statement is correct, things would still focus but focus would be less reliable and perhaps slower as edge contrast was reduced but not completely eliminated. If the edge under the active AF area was red on red as in a darker shade against a lighter shade of red then yeah, focus might really struggle in that situation but generally edges of interest aren't just shades of the same color.

Pure speculation on my part based on Thom's statement and my understanding of how AF sensors work but it could be completely off base.
 
It is interesting. Every red is not only red though. If you hover the mouse in lightroom you can see the rgb components of what is below the cursor. Maybe there is a threshold of green and blue needed.

That definitely makes sense and like I said no other shade, no matter how vibrant seems to have an issue. In fact, from my experience every mirrorless camera I’ve used seems to stick on blue subjects like glue.
 
As I understand it the linear and cross point AF sensors really focus in gray scale but yes those that sit behind red filters would have that grayscale light attenuated. Still focus is at edges, often the edges between the color of the subject and the darker eyes so there should still be a grayscale difference on those edges.

It seems to me if the photosites dedicated to AF sensing sit behind red filters then the red portions (e.g. red feathers on a bird) would be sensed at much lower light levels than other colors but there should still be edge contrast at the eyes, the beak or whatever edge is under the active AF area but that contrast would be muted compared to other edge colors that aren't as heavily attenuated by the bayer filter color sitting in front of the photosites in question.

So I'd expect if you placed a red filter on the lens and assuming that Them Hogan statement is correct, things would still focus but focus would be less reliable and perhaps slower as edge contrast was reduced but not completely eliminated. If the edge under the active AF area was red on red as in a darker shade against a lighter shade of red then yeah, focus might really struggle in that situation but generally edges of interest aren't just shades of the same color.

Pure speculation on my part based on Thom's statement and my understanding of how AF sensors work but it could be completely off base.
Makes sense to me. It also seems worse when the bird is starting directly forward which could be why the hypothesis you present about edges hold true.
 
It can be found in Thom Hogan's writings about Z system cameras. This is from the Z9 book:
"Note: I mentioned light wavelengths before. If you know anything
about spectral differences, you’re probably already
guessing that if the light is “too red” the camera might be
focusing to one direction, while if the light is “too blue” the
camera might be focusing to the other direction. The Z
Series cameras’ phase detect sensors live under blue and
green filters
, so they’re not tuned to extremely red (and
near-IR) light. "
And there's also this mention recently

"....One thing I haven't seen written about the Sony A1 is the bird color/eye color issue. Some combinations of bird and eye color focus extremely well, others not so much, some not at all. This clearly has to do with the way Sony trained the ML/AI module. Others have trained theirs differently. I notice, for example, that Nikon seems to favor two bird positions (upright stationary and full flight). An unusual bird/wing shape/position will sometimes cause the Z9 to put focus in the wrong spot, though generally not off by a lot."


This might also be linked (perhaps confound) the horizontal versus vertical aspects of AF reliability performance with MILC AF. Just a suggestion
 
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And there's also this mention recently

"....One thing I haven't seen written about the Sony A1 is the bird color/eye color issue. Some combinations of bird and eye color focus extremely well, others not so much, some not at all. This clearly has to do with the way Sony trained the ML/AI module. Others have trained theirs differently. I notice, for example, that Nikon seems to favor two bird positions (upright stationary and full flight). An unusual bird/wing shape/position will sometimes cause the Z9 to put focus in the wrong spot, though generally not off by a lot."


This might also be linked (perhaps confound) the horizontal versus vertical aspects of AF reliability with MILC AF. Just a suggestion
Very interesting.
 
I have not had any problem with cardinals, either in Texas or around Chicago. From early this week - only did a quick processing LR

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I can be twenty feet away with the A1 and 600GM and there are times I’ll have to engage for 4-5 times to lock on. Never ever happens with any other color. Also had the same issue with five different Nikon mirrorless bodies and various lenses. Again it’s not the end of the world but it’s puzzling.
That’s just crazy! Neither one of mine have done that.
 
Like this shot here for instance that basically had nothing in the scene other than the stump and bird. The camera would lock on instantly but if there had been lots of green foliage that wouldn’t have been the case. It’s just strange because no other color whatsoever causes this to happen.
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I don’t know if any of you have noticed, but every mirrorless camera I have had, which includes both generations of Nikon, Z6&7, Z9, Sony A1, and now a A7RV. If you’re trying to photograph a bird such as a summer Tanager or male cardinal for example, all of these cameras struggle to lock on for initial focus. It doesn’t matter what setting or mode you are in. Perhaps it’s something with sensor technology because on DSLR cameras, there was never any difference whatsoever in being able to acquire focus on red subjects. I have went as far as even setting up a red stuffed animal in the house and one of a neutral color, and every camera I have tried shows a substantial difference in the initial acquisition of focus on red. I’m just curious if any of you have experienced this, and if you have found a workaround. The A7RV seems to be the best of the bunch but still exhibits this issue. I have had male cardinals sitting on a branch with no obstructions 10 yards away, and my Sony A1, unless I grab the focus ring, will not acquire focus. It’s just really strange to me and I don’t understand why.
Steven, I don't have any photos to share because I deleted the blurry ones. Yesterday there were a couple scarlet and a couple summer tanagers along our hike. I had a devil of a time getting my Canon R7 to focus and Leslie had trouble with her Sony RX-10. Ultimately, I had to manually focus and once I nailed it with manual, the tracking would hold onto the bird but initial focus was hard on both cameras.

Not to wish misfortune but it is somewhat comforting to hear others have similar issues. Never had a problem with cardinals and the Scarlet Tanager was pretty easy once it turned profile to me. However, the Summer Tanager was more difficult to acquire initial focus.
 
Steven, I don't have any photos to share because I deleted the blurry ones. Yesterday there were a couple scarlet and a couple summer tanagers along our hike. I had a devil of a time getting my Canon R7 to focus and Leslie had trouble with her Sony RX-10. Ultimately, I had to manually focus and once I nailed it with manual, the tracking would hold onto the bird but initial focus was hard on both cameras.

Not to wish misfortune but it is somewhat comforting to hear others have similar issues. Never had a problem with cardinals and the Scarlet Tanager was pretty easy once it turned profile to me. However, the Summer Tanager was more difficult to acquire initial focus.
I’m glad you posted this because this is absolutely happening and happens often. It did it with all five Nikon mirrorless cameras I owned and now three Sony bodies. There are times even 20 feet away from a vibrant male cardinal, it will not acquire focus no matter what until it’s helped manually. As the colors fade into the fall due to molting the problem doesn’t happen. The summer tanagers are the worst imo, especially if they’re surrounded with green such as the image I posted earlier. This never ever happens with any other color.
 
I’m glad you posted this because this is absolutely happening and happens often. It did it with all five Nikon mirrorless cameras I owned and now three Sony bodies. There are times even 20 feet away from a vibrant male cardinal, it will not acquire focus no matter what until it’s helped manually. As the colors fade into the fall due to molting the problem doesn’t happen. The summer tanagers are the worst imo, especially if they’re surrounded with green such as the image I posted earlier. This never ever happens with any other color.
I'm not sure exactly how the AF on the Mirrorless works but something I thought of is it could be the lack of contrast between red and green as the camera sees it. I've attached a black and white version of one of the Summer Tanagers I shot yesterday. This exact shot gave me fits trying to get the AF to pick it up. I finally switched the camera into manual focus and grabbed the shot. The bird sat in this spot for about 30 seconds singing its little heart out.
Jeff
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I'm not sure exactly how the AF on the Mirrorless works but something I thought of is it could be the lack of contrast between red and green as the camera sees it. I've attached a black and white version of one of the Summer Tanagers I shot yesterday. This exact shot gave me fits trying to get the AF to pick it up. I finally switched the camera into manual focus and grabbed the shot. The bird sat in this spot for about 30 seconds singing its little heart out.
Jeff
View attachment 60648
Very interesting
 
Does he mention how he knows that about the phase detect being only under blur and green filters?
I don't remember if Thom says how he knows, but I'll guess that using something like RawDigger on raw files you can identify which pixel rows are used for PDAF and what are the corresponding Bayer filter colors.

In support of this, recall that one of the problems with the Z and similar mirrorless focus system is that the red (or near IR?) autofocus assist light on flashes is not effective. You would need something with a green/blue spectral component.

I'd be curious to see examples of this issue (some focused, others not) where you then convert the raw image to a B&W using only the blue & green channels. How much contrast against the background is retained sya, for example, on one of those cardinal images?
Peter
 
here is the same shot in color. I'm not sure if the contrast or lack thereof in the non-color version has anything to do with it or not. Would be interesting for one of the engineers to chime in.
View attachment 60649

I thought the camera uses the same feed for color or BW. The BW conversion is just a profile/picture control.
 
It might be the same reason the black and white copiers have a difficult time copying black text on red paper. The copier just doesn't see a difference in contrast between the red and the black. If focus is based on contrast maybe it can't easily distinguish between red and black.
 
I thought the camera uses the same feed for color or BW. The BW conversion is just a profile/picture control.
As I said in my first post I am not sure exactly what the processor sees in the AF. I just noticed the contrast difference between red and green was quite low and when colors were removed so that they are seen as shades of gray there is very little contrast.

I wasn't suggesting this is "the" reason but just something I noticed that I wanted to throw out there hoping someone who knows a whole lot more about the tech than I do would chime in.

Jeff
 
It can be found in Thom Hogan's writings about Z system cameras. This is from the Z9 book:
"Note: I mentioned light wavelengths before. If you know anything
about spectral differences, you’re probably already
guessing that if the light is “too red” the camera might be
focusing to one direction, while if the light is “too blue” the
camera might be focusing to the other direction. The Z
Series cameras’ phase detect sensors live under blue and
green filters
, so they’re not tuned to extremely red (and
near-IR) light. "
Thank you -- since the same type of sensor is in the A1 and the Z9 (well as far as I know) then one could reasonably expect to see the same results in a Z9 as an A1 with RED subjects.
Surely Sony and Nikon know what they are doing and so one may enquire does Canon follow a similar system in their (R3/R5 bodies?)
 
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