I would also disable the manual focus ring. I find I move it when hand holding the 600pf.
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This is probably true, with csp in the wide area modes.i'm almost positive what happened in your current image is af picked up the wire.
Here are all 4 of the shots in the burst. All at Wide-S Bird detection. I insured that the entire Wide-s box did not include any of the straps and didnt press the shutter until the eye detected box turned green.Do all shots in that burst show the same degree of being out of focus?
This is exactly why i was using c1 at 1 x 1 mode for the original image i posted. To insure objects close the subject weren't being included.This is probably true, with csp in the wide area modes.
AF can sometimes focus on something outside the focus box. The bird is so close to (and behind) the wire that I suspect the wire was the true point of focus, not the bird. I’ve had that happen with the 70-200, 100-400, and 400 f/4.5 Z lenses. That’s an issue with how AF works, I don’t think it’s a problem with the lens.Here are all 4 of the shots in the burst. All at Wide-S Bird detection. I insured that the entire Wide-s box did not include any of the straps and didnt press the shutter until the eye detected box turned green.
Thanks for your help John and to everyone else that contributed. I just noticed that when shooting with the 600PF my finger was resting squarely on the focus ring. That so easy could have been the issue. Instead of turning it off, I have reversed the role of the focus ring and the control ring. Give it a try this afternoon and see if it helps.fwiw, not that it helps, but both the shots you shared look to be tricky shots considering the small subject size, obstructions, long focal length and hand held
one thing i've done is set the color of my focus peaking to blue. i find this makes it glaringly obvious to me that i've accidentally nudged the af ring.Thanks for your help John and to everyone else that contributed. I just noticed that when shooting with the 600PF my finger was resting squarely on the focus ring. That so easy could have been the issue. Instead of turning it off, I have reversed the role of the focus ring and the control ring. Give it a try this afternoon and see if it helps.
Just want to say that you're not alone with this. I get similar results on occasion with my Z8/180-600. I'm going to keep an eye on the focus ring as a possible culprit. I do have focus peaking on/red , and I have noticed how easy it is to activate inadvertantly with a touch.Thanks for your help John and to everyone else that contributed. I just noticed that when shooting with the 600PF my finger was resting squarely on the focus ring. That so easy could have been the issue. Instead of turning it off, I have reversed the role of the focus ring and the control ring. Give it a try this afternoon and see if it helps.
I have seen this happen myself. False positive. I am assuming you have subject detection on with some form of wide area. The camera sees the eye but there is something in front of the eye (cable in this case) and the camera focused on the closest thing under the focus point. This is one scenario where 3d with SD actually works better.Here are all 4 of the shots in the burst. All at Wide-S Bird detection. I insured that the entire Wide-s box did not include any of the straps and didnt press the shutter until the eye detected box turned green.
I use blue too and selected that color because it is unusual for the vast majority of my images and it is distinctly visible. My 800 seems to be an offender especially if I am reaching for the control ring.one thing i've done is set the color of my focus peaking to blue. i find this makes it glaringly obvious to me that i've accidentally nudged the af ring.
i'm not particularly clearly why changing the color made a big difference for me, but it did
I am a bird ID photographer and shoot birds of all size in a wide range of terrain and habitat sitting, hopping, flying and running all hand held.Thanks for your help John and to everyone else that contributed. I just noticed that when shooting with the 600PF my finger was resting squarely on the focus ring. That so easy could have been the issue. Instead of turning it off, I have reversed the role of the focus ring and the control ring. Give it a try this afternoon and see if it helps.
Definitely I have that happen often I find the AF can lie at times so I like to take several bursts refocusing each timei'm almost positive what happened in your current image is af picked up the wire.
If they are far enough away the focus on the body or the head will have what you can see of the eye in focus even with a Z800 at f/6.3 so essentially at the infinity point.I have found that head on shots of birds that are distant can be difficult for the subject detection to get a correct focus. As soon as the bird turns to the side, the shots tend to sharpen remarkably. I see the detection box going through the process of body, head, but not making it to eye reliably until there is a side profile of the eye. I am shooting small birds at distance, and so do not have a very large image. The DX crop mode helps with that somewhat, seeming to improve focus a bit.
Your comment on a bird ideally needing to be in profile rather than head on is helpful, particularly for those going through the learning stages of getting used to subject detection auto focus.I have found that head on shots of birds that are distant can be difficult for the subject detection to get a correct focus. As soon as the bird turns to the side, the shots tend to sharpen remarkably. I see the detection box going through the process of body, head, but not making it to eye reliably until there is a side profile of the eye. I am shooting small birds at distance, and so do not have a very large image. The DX crop mode helps with that somewhat, seeming to improve focus a bit.
I think you are correct. It seems that the base of the wire (silver connector) on the extreme left is in pretty good focus. Otherwise, I cannot imagine what could be causing this. In thinking about this again, I am very suspicious of the contrast here. It seems that the head-on shot of the bird is not a very good contrast between the background, breast, or wings and the camera is having a difficult time with a lack of sharp contrast. Not having a sufficient contrast is mentioned in every Nikon Owner's manual since the 1970's. There just doesn't seem to be much difference between the bird's beak/head and the surroundingsi'm almost positive what happened in your current image is af picked up the wire.
Thank you they work fine for Bird ID ... a whole different genre than planned bird photography been there done that but rarely do anymore ... to much fun hunting birds with my camera for citizen scienceGreat shots Ken. I would say you are a fellow photographer that knows his craft! Thanks for sharing