Amit
New member
Hi,
Matt Granger just post "
Matt Granger just post "
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Granger is a hack.
Amit
New member
Well, I don't like naming .... but that's the reason I posted the question here
, Maybe there's something I don't know ....
His quote should be "I never really learn how to use my equipment, but I think this will increase the comment number on my YouTube and drive the algorithm to get more viewers."Well, I don't like naming .... but that's the reason I posted the question here
Amit
New member
Don't be so evil
Steve has mentioned this in his tips but it is not camera specific.
Amit
New member
Is that regarding to manually refocus ?
Yes. To give it a nudge.
But seriously, every camera, every lens, every AF setting takes a fraction of a second to adjust. The main issue is the speed of the elements moving into place, and the heavier those elements are (as well as other factors like number and agility of motors, battery juice, etc), the longer it takes. A manual nudge helps.
Amit
New member
I Agree
I haven't seen the video, but is he talking about trying to focus on a close subject when the focus is out near infinity? I don't know of any AF camera on the planet that doesn't need manual help with this at times. This is not a mirrorless or Nikon issue alone.
Amit
New member
Sort of ... he was talking about a case when the focus is say 10m after the subject (meaning subject is out of focus) ...
I guess it's the same ...
I guess it's the same ...
Sometimes you have to give the focussing ring a nudge to get focus in the ballpark of your subject and this can happen with most mirrorless cameras. The typical problem is when you are focused out and trying to focus on something relatively close. 10 meters is just a made up figure as it depends on how far out the things are. If you are focused at 10M and trying to focus on something at minimum focus distance, there's a chance the AF might not engage. However, if you're focused at 50M and try to focus at something at 40M it's rarely an issue.
Also, if it's going to happen it's usually when you are focused at a distance and trying to focus on something close - rarely the other way around.
In practice, it's not a big deal at all. You get used to it in the same we were were used to not have AF points all over the viewfinder of a DSLR. You don't even think about it after a short time and you lean to work with it.
Also, if it's going to happen it's usually when you are focused at a distance and trying to focus on something close - rarely the other way around.
In practice, it's not a big deal at all. You get used to it in the same we were were used to not have AF points all over the viewfinder of a DSLR. You don't even think about it after a short time and you lean to work with it.
Lighting conditions can be a factor, too. If the subject is very bright or very dark AF can struggle. As Steve said, a nudge of the MF ring can help. I have focus peaking enabled when I turn the MF ring. It helps me know that I have the subject nearly in focus. AF usually locks on immediately afterward.
Mario Nobile
New member
Well said (Contrast, size, light, and many more. the camera will not make a decision for you unless u help it to modifying or adjust to the shooting situation.
groob
Member
This has been a known issue with all mirrorless cameras for years. As above, it’s no problem to give the manual focus ring a nudge.
The problem is that the camera has no way to know what our intentions are. It's a computer following a set of instructions. If what we want to focus on is a soft blur on the sensor and another object has edges and contrast its programmed to seek the edges and contrast.
I think it's a true statement what he said though, and the name calling is not a good look. It seems dslr was able to find the nearest object but would prioritize that and sometimes miss farther ones. That why some folks go for double back button systems or other ways to prefocus in the general area.
I think it's a true statement what he said though, and the name calling is not a good look. It seems dslr was able to find the nearest object but would prioritize that and sometimes miss farther ones. That why some folks go for double back button systems or other ways to prefocus in the general area.
fulltimewanderer
Active member
Maybe also caused by not fully understanding our gear and possibly selecting the wrong af mode. Probably why most of us purchased Steve’s book(s).
While Matt Granger has never been a go to YT channel for me, as the saying goes, even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and then. In this case, IMHO, Matt is right and it's along the lines of what Steve, others and even my infamous self have concluded.
Put very simply, if your subject is so out of focus that the subject detection has no possible hope of identifying a known shape or characteristics, it will focus on what it CAN identify without initiating a full near to far, or vice versa, racking of focus. Matt is right in that our DSLR's would often do this if everything was so blurred as to be unable to figure out what to focus on. Always aggravated me when my D850 or D500 would rack focus from near to far, but it was just doing what it needed to do if we didn't intervene. It appears that MILC's are not programmed to do so, at least not intelligently.
The camera doesn't have the advantage of knowing, as we the photographer do, that there is a bird, or whatever our intended subject is, in the frame. As many have figured out, we have to give it a hint, either by manually focusing to the point where the subject is identifiable or recalling a focus preset that is in the range of what we're shooting.
Cheers!
Put very simply, if your subject is so out of focus that the subject detection has no possible hope of identifying a known shape or characteristics, it will focus on what it CAN identify without initiating a full near to far, or vice versa, racking of focus. Matt is right in that our DSLR's would often do this if everything was so blurred as to be unable to figure out what to focus on. Always aggravated me when my D850 or D500 would rack focus from near to far, but it was just doing what it needed to do if we didn't intervene. It appears that MILC's are not programmed to do so, at least not intelligently.
The camera doesn't have the advantage of knowing, as we the photographer do, that there is a bird, or whatever our intended subject is, in the frame. As many have figured out, we have to give it a hint, either by manually focusing to the point where the subject is identifiable or recalling a focus preset that is in the range of what we're shooting.
Cheers!
fcotterill
Well-known member
The lack of cross-type AF sensors in mirrorless cameras is the other important factor influencing how they can struggle to grab on to certain categories of subjects. There's been much discussion about this.
Eg https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4725170
And see the cited reviews therein
I encounter the MILC AF blip quite often using the Z9 and D6. The solution with the Z9 is to use the recall focus position set close up, and/or tilting the camera to vertical. And yes, a MF tweak is often the quickest fix. In contrast grabs almost any subject at any distance almost instantly.
Eg https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4725170
And see the cited reviews therein
I encounter the MILC AF blip quite often using the Z9 and D6. The solution with the Z9 is to use the recall focus position set close up, and/or tilting the camera to vertical. And yes, a MF tweak is often the quickest fix. In contrast grabs almost any subject at any distance almost instantly.
This is definitely an issue when a bird flies directly at you. I have learned to manually focus closer and then reacquire.
But what he is saying is not new. And as I understand it’s applicable to every mirrorless camera. I consider his video just another click bait about a known issue with MILC. I know it and I adjust. If he is looking for a simple point and shoot, this isn’t it.
EricKlees
Well-known member
I rarely had that issue with my Z9 and generally when i did, it was the bird at great distances, to far for any system) So really that i have my manual focus ring disabled so i don't accidentally bump it. There are ways to manipulate the AF system and i don't mean driving AF Area modes.
With FW 4.10 and Auto Area AF mode, I don't this issue at all. I agree on the hack statement as others have said but i give no mind to a YouTuber that tries to make videos on genres they don't spend much time with (wildlife and bird) like Granger and that Fro guy.
With FW 4.10 and Auto Area AF mode, I don't this issue at all. I agree on the hack statement as others have said but i give no mind to a YouTuber that tries to make videos on genres they don't spend much time with (wildlife and bird) like Granger and that Fro guy.
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W.W.
New member
I don't think, that this is an issue in that case, because the bird doesn't vanish at 50m and instantaously materializes at 3m distance but is moving continously toward you.
I think this is more of an issue, if you are shooting birds in flight at 20-50m and suddenly see a kingfisher at a branch 5m away from you.
My D5 would do the near-far program in such a situation, my Z9 would do no focussing without manual prefocussing. I can't decide which of the two strategies is the faster one.
I don't think this is the kind of place where we go around calling names. I brought the issue up in a report when others have done it, but now others are starting to mimic. I think we can tell why we think someone is wrong without declaring they are a hack or whatever other disparaging terms someone wants to throw out.