Z9 firmware 4.01

[Wes Peterson]

Has been released. Minor bug fixes.

Nikon Z9 firmware update version 4.01 released - Nikon Rumors

Nikon released firmware update version 4.01 for the Z9 camera. Here is the list of fixes: The camera would in rare circumstances stop responding or fail to record a video correctly if an attempt for video recording took place after the standby timer had expired then reactivated with [Frame...

nikonrumors.com

 

[Dave Stargazer]

Note that IPTC data will not be preserved when doing this update [Edit: only for cameras with FW 3.1 or earlier]. And the lack of any feedback during the first two minutes is... disconcerting Hang in there...I've noticed a delay with previous versions (not just pre 2.00).

From the firmware download page:
>>>>
Time Required to Complete This Update

This update takes approximately 6 minutes. A progress bar will be displayed when the update begins, but when updating from a “C” firmware version earlier than 2.00 you may notice that it takes about 2 minutes for the progress bar to be displayed. Do not turn off the camera until the firmware update is complete.

IPTC Presets

Performing this update from a “C” firmware version 3.10 or earlier will delete IPTC presets in the camera. This is an intended consequence of improvements to IPTC presets. Users who intend to continue using existing presets will need to copy them to a memory card using [IPTC] > [Load/save] > [Slot 1]/[Slot 2] > [Copy to card] in the [SETUP MENU] before performing the update. The saved presets can be loaded from the memory card using [IPTC] > [Load/save] > [Slot 1]/[Slot 2] > [Copy to camera] once the update is complete.
Note that IPTC presets cannot be loaded if menu settings were saved to a memory card using [Save/load menu settings] > [Save menu settings] in a camera with a “C” firmware version 3.10 or earlier and loaded to the camera using [Save/load menu settings] > [Load menu settings] after performing this update. Be sure to copy and load the IPTC presets individually via the method described above.
If this update is performed to a camera with a “C” firmware version 4.00 or later, the existing IPTC presets can be used after update without taking the above measures.
<<<<

 

[JoelKlein]

Any sneaked in updates to 3D tracking with SD people only?

 

[Fishboy1952]

Update completed. No apparent issues. It looks like this change deals primarily with minor bugs when doing video, which I rarely do. But I wanted to keep it current.

 

[Cameron T]

Any sneaked in updates to 3D tracking with SD people only?

Try it and let us know.

I still never had a problem with 3d, after locking onto what I wanted with a different area mode (which makes a lot more sense) or by putting the box over the subject manually.

 

[Anthony]

Note that IPTC data will not be preserved when doing this update.

This only applies if the camera is on 3.1 or earlier.

 

[EricKlees]

I was out today with my Z9 and 800PF with the new 4.01 FW. I know there was no mention of any AF improvements but today I shot just over 1,000 images and noticed much less, what I call, AF drift. That is when in a burst, you will get sharp photos, but you will notice some not 100% tack sharp (though 90-95% of people would still say they are sharp) as most in a burst. It could be placebo effect, but today I had virtually zero AF drift in my 1,000+ images. Curious if anyone else noticed this as well. Nikon has been known to not mention a few small tweaks in FW upgrades in the past so who knows. In a previous update (maybe 3.10 or 4.0 can't remember right now) they made mention of an improvement in the very thing. That why I am wondering if they tweaked it without drop it in the list of changes. Has anyone else been out shooting with the new FW update and notice this?

Also corrected is the first image in a burst having a warmer WB when shooting Auto or Auto Natural Light WB. Nice that they corrected that so quickly.

 

[EricKlees]

Try it and let us know.

I still never had a problem with 3d, after locking onto what I wanted with a different area mode (which makes a lot more sense) or by putting the box over the subject manually.

Not sure if you are aware but I think since FW 3.10 if you have set any of the Wide Area modes, be it WA S/M/L or C1 or C2, when you get the white passive tracking box inside the large red box and just hit 3D it picks up directly off the box (not starting from the center of frame) when you just start with the 3D AF mode, so not a hybrid hand off. For some reason the passive (not actively AFing) is significantly faster and more intelligent in recognizing and picking the subject with that white box then any of the AF modes right off the bat.
Whatever Nikon has done with this recognition algorithm is what then need to incorporate in all the AF modes that have subject recognition.

 

[Cameron T]

Not sure if you are aware but I think since FW 3.10 if you have set any of the Wide Area modes, be it WA S/M/L or C1 or C2, when you get the white passive tracking box inside the large red box and just hit 3D it picks up directly off the box (not starting from the center of frame) when you just start with the 3D AF mode, so not a hybrid hand off. For some reason the passive (not actively AFing) is significantly faster and more intelligent in recognizing and picking the subject with that white box then any of the AF modes right off the bat.
Whatever Nikon has done with this recognition algorithm is what then need to incorporate in all the AF modes that have subject recognition.

I'm trying to understand the difference.

You're saying the af is on, and finds the subject in another mode, and then you... Hand off to 3d to track it.

You'll have to elaborate how this is any different because to me it's not. Is the only difference if you hit the af button in the first one? Because in my experience with the hand off (holding af button for wide area/auto) the 3d also picks up exactly where the box was.

 

[EricKlees]

I'm trying to understand the difference.

You're saying the af is on, and finds the subject in another mode, and then you... Hand off to 3d to track it.

You'll have to elaborate how this is any different because to me it's not. Is the only difference if you hit the af button in the first one? Because in my experience with the hand off (holding af button for wide area/auto) the 3d also picks up exactly where the box was.

OK, lets explain like this... If you have any Wide Area set as the main or default AF mode, so you see the large AF box in the EVF without touching any buttons. In this AF box the camera will subject detect inside this box and when it does, it will put a white passive AF box on the subject inside the larger wide area box (any wide area so S/M/L or C1 or C2) Once this white box is on the subject, just hit your 3D AF button, for me it's my BB AF ON button. No need to half press the shutter first then hand off.

The white passive AF box that is inside the larger Wide Are box is much more intelligent and tenacious, also much faster to acquire the subject. Since FW 3.01 or 3.10 the #D only starts at the center of the frame if there is no white passive AF box in the main Wide Area box. So once the white passive box is showing on the subject (which is usually instant) just hit 3D tracking and it puts the 3D AF box instantly on the subject it doesn't have to start from the center of the frame and potentially start hunting to the background first.

You might need to use the half press to get the subject close to in focus which would be normal but the key here is you can tap that, get it close but then let go of the shutter and let it track the subject in the read AF Wide Area with the white passive box without constantly holding down any AF where it constantly has AF-C active and burning more battery just watching. You can let it track with the white passive AF box and just hit the 3D AF + AF ON (I never separate my AF modes from AF ON) activating AF-C.

It's a bit convoluted trying to type it out. I hope this explains it better, I have been doing this since shortly after the FW update that let the 3D tracking start from where that white is passively tracking.

With this technique you do not have to press the shutter button and be actively focusing then hand it off. You just start your 3D tracking from the passive tracking of the white box. With this, I rarely ever have to use the half press shutter to get 3D to instantly pickup the subject. It's also good if you have multiple subjects in the frame, move the frame to remove one subject from the red wide area box, see the white passive box, hit 3D and recompose. Much simpler this way and you will find the White AF box is more intelligent and faster then waiting for it to find the subject in the Wide AF box.

 

[Cameron T]

It sounds like the handoff, just without holding the AF button down first before swapping.

I'll be honest and say I don't see a difference between the methods, because I think Jan Wagner does what you're saying. I tried it, didn't see a difference in my circumstances in speed or accuracy.

 

[EricKlees]

It sounds like the handoff, just without holding the AF button down first before swapping.

I'll be honest and say I don't see a difference between the methods, because I think Jan Wagner does what you're saying. I tried it, didn't see a difference in my circumstances in speed or accuracy.

It is but 1, it save you battery, and only require 1 button, not half pressing and handing off and 2, letting the camera passively find the track the subject is more intelligent and faster then using the Wide Area with half press. Plus if you have anything closer to you in the frame, the larger Wide Area Box if you half press the shutter, will pick up the branches, grasses, whatever. In these scenarios the passive box will grab the subject and not the closer objects.

Also, this works VERY VERY well with a bird or subject with a tree line or busy background. Better for me than trying to get the Wide Area AF mode to recognize and accurately acquire the tricky subjects. I use it all the time to get a lock on the subject rather then it trying to pick up the background. It's by far the best way I have found to manipulate the AF system to be faster and more accurate in the trying scenes.

I am not familiar with Jan Wagner, though I will look him up

 

[Cameron T]

It is but 1, it save you battery, and only require 1 button, not half pressing and handing off and 2, letting the camera passively find the track the subject is more intelligent and faster then using the Wide Area with half press.

Ehhhhhhh. I haven't had that experience. But that's my shooting. ymmv.

Plus if you have anything closer to you in the frame, the larger Wide Area Box if you half press the shutter, will pick up the branches, grasses, whatever. In these scenarios the passive box will grab the subject and not the closer objects.

That's when I use a smaller box

Also, this works VERY VERY well with a bird or subject with a tree line or busy background. Better for me than trying to get the Wide Area AF mode to recognize and accurately acquire the tricky subjects. I use it all the time to get a lock on the subject rather then it trying to pick up the background. It's by far the best way I have found to manipulate the AF system to be faster and more accurate in the trying scenes.

I am not familiar with Jan Wagner, though I will look him up

I haven't had an issue using the wide area modes at all for most shooting.

I also know that a lot of people have wildly different experiences with nikon AF that I can't explain (since I'm not there to see it first hand). Some is probably user error, some is down to lighting/etc in the individual scene, but some I just can't explain what it is.

Jan does okay, though he's harsh on Nikon (as are most people). Not my favorite video style either, I prefer Duade Patton, or Steve here.

 

[EricKlees]

Ehhhhhhh. I haven't had that experience. But that's my shooting. ymmv.

That's when I use a smaller box

I haven't had an issue using the wide area modes at all for most shooting.

I also know that a lot of people have wildly different experiences with nikon AF that I can't explain (since I'm not there to see it first hand). Some is probably user error, some is down to lighting/etc in the individual scene, but some I just can't explain what it is.

Jan does okay, though he's harsh on Nikon (as are most people). Not my favorite video style either, I prefer Duade Patton, or Steve here.

I think you're still missing the full point of this. If you aren't pressing a button to keep the camera constantly/actively engaging the AF-C you will be using less battery.

With this method, you don't have to switch to a smaller box and try and keep the subject in a small area of the frame. This even with the large AF box, eliminates all the other stuff in the frame but the subject, just let it passively track the subject inside the box. So much easier. But if you are happy with when you are using that is great. Always shoot with what works for you.

I think I found the guy you are talking about. Jan Wegener, not Wagner? Australian? Still looking for the video you mention. I like Steve as well, a lot. I just don't get why he separates his AF mode and AF ON so you need to use a button to select an AF mode like 3D and then need another button to activate your AF-C then press the shutter meaning 3 buttons to do what say using 3D+AF ON on a single button. I can do it, but less buttons means more attention can be spent on comp, tracking and other things needed for the shot.

 

[jfredrick]

I just don't get why he separates his AF mode and AF ON so you need to use a button to select an AF mode like 3D and then need another button to activate your AF-C then press the shutter meaning 3 buttons to do what say using 3D+AF ON on a single button. I can do it, but less buttons means more attention can be spent on comp, tracking and other things needed for the shot.

Steve’s method works well for me and makes a lot of sense. Manipulating three buttons simultaneously takes coordination and may not be for everyone. It’s becomes Second nature with practice. Activating 3D on a separate button is essential if You shoot a variety of backgrounds.

 

[Cameron T]

I think you're still missing the full point of this. If you aren't pressing a button to keep the camera constantly/actively engaging the AF-C you will be using less battery.

The battery savings are probably negligible, as I bet the screen uses more power.

I think I found the guy you are talking about. Jan Wegener, not Wagner? Australian?

That's the one. Not sure if I had a brain fart or autocorrect got me.

Still looking for the video you mention.

I think it was a z9 video, but it could have been somewhere else. I was linked to it from this form a while back.

I like Steve as well, a lot. I just don't get why he separates his AF mode and AF ON so you need to use a button to select an AF mode like 3D and then need another button to activate your AF-C then press the shutter meaning 3 buttons to do what say using 3D+AF ON on a single button. I can do it, but less buttons means more attention can be spent on comp, tracking and other things needed for the shot.

I agree. I use the shutter button for af and taking the image. Disconnecting them is more a relic from the dslr era of focus and recompose which we no longer need to do, but that's just my opinion on the subject.

 

[EricKlees]

Steve’s method works well for me and makes a lot of sense. Manipulating three buttons simultaneously takes coordination and may not be for everyone. It’s becomes Second nature with practice. Activating 3D on a separate button is essential if You shoot a variety of backgrounds.

I can do it. It just makes zero sense to me. Use 2 buttons to do what 1 can do? Seems unnecessary to me. I shoot 100% wildlife/bif so my backgrounds are changing as much as anyone's. I have 3 AF modes on the back... Display button, AF ON button, sub selector button wide C1 on the shutter. I just don't have to do finger Olympics when shooting and can concentrate on other's like tracking, comp,, among anything else to get the shot. My hit rate is in the 90% plus range, but shoot with what works for you.

 

[EricKlees]

The battery savings are probably negligible, as I bet the screen uses more power.

That's the one. Not sure if I had a brain fart or autocorrect got me.

I think it was a z9 video, but it could have been somewhere else. I was linked to it from this form a while back.

I agree. I use the shutter button for af and taking the image. Disconnecting them is more a relic from the dslr era of focus and recompose which we no longer need to do, but that's just my opinion on the subject.

Yes i found the video. That's is pretty much what I've been doing since FW3.10 came out. It does save battery. With this method I'm getting 4-6k shots over an 8-10 hour day on a heavy day of shooting. Prior to this i was probably averaging about 1k shots less per charge. I shoot the same way with the camera setup exactly the same.

Everyone shoots differently and not all methods are for everyone. Like how i don't separate my AF mode with my AF ON.

 

[jdinny]

Hey Eric,
Good to see you on here, met you at Conowingo in March.
I've been shooting like that since FW 3.1 as well.
Works great for me.

 

[Dagny]

Update completed. No apparent issues. It looks like this change deals primarily with minor bugs when doing video, which I rarely do. But I wanted to keep it current.

That was my experience as well. Not updating incurs "technological debt". And my experience with Z9 updates has been very good.

 

[Ken Miracle]

OK, lets explain like this... If you have any Wide Area set as the main or default AF mode, so you see the large AF box in the EVF without touching any buttons. In this AF box the camera will subject detect inside this box and when it does, it will put a white passive AF box on the subject inside the larger wide area box (any wide area so S/M/L or C1 or C2) Once this white box is on the subject, just hit your 3D AF button, for me it's my BB AF ON button. No need to half press the shutter first then hand off.

The white passive AF box that is inside the larger Wide Are box is much more intelligent and tenacious, also much faster to acquire the subject. Since FW 3.01 or 3.10 the #D only starts at the center of the frame if there is no white passive AF box in the main Wide Area box. So once the white passive box is showing on the subject (which is usually instant) just hit 3D tracking and it puts the 3D AF box instantly on the subject it doesn't have to start from the center of the frame and potentially start hunting to the background first.

You might need to use the half press to get the subject close to in focus which would be normal but the key here is you can tap that, get it close but then let go of the shutter and let it track the subject in the read AF Wide Area with the white passive box without constantly holding down any AF where it constantly has AF-C active and burning more battery just watching. You can let it track with the white passive AF box and just hit the 3D AF + AF ON (I never separate my AF modes from AF ON) activating AF-C.

It's a bit convoluted trying to type it out. I hope this explains it better, I have been doing this since shortly after the FW update that let the 3D tracking start from where that white is passively tracking.

With this technique you do not have to press the shutter button and be actively focusing then hand it off. You just start your 3D tracking from the passive tracking of the white box. With this, I rarely ever have to use the half press shutter to get 3D to instantly pickup the subject. It's also good if you have multiple subjects in the frame, move the frame to remove one subject from the red wide area box, see the white passive box, hit 3D and recompose. Much simpler this way and you will find the White AF box is more intelligent and faster then waiting for it to find the subject in the Wide AF box.

Yup it works either way ... I have my AF ON button set for 3D AF + AF ON. I use half press shutter for AF ON wide area custom at 5x3. I still have my A7 focus point persistance on auto.

When I pull the camera up if the white box is where I want it I can just hit the AF ON for 3d if that is what I want or I can start with my shutter half press and hand off either way.

I have other buttons set to other AF area modes + AF ON and all work pretty much the same way.

 

[Dagny]

Not sure if you are aware but I think since FW 3.10 if you have set any of the Wide Area modes, be it WA S/M/L or C1 or C2, when you get the white passive tracking box inside the large red box and just hit 3D it picks up directly off the box (not starting from the center of frame) when you just start with the 3D AF mode, so not a hybrid hand off. For some reason the passive (not actively AFing) is significantly faster and more intelligent in recognizing and picking the subject with that white box then any of the AF modes right off the bat.
Whatever Nikon has done with this recognition algorithm is what then need to incorporate in all the AF modes that have subject recognition.

Thanks for this, I have seen it but was unclear what it was. I will try hitting the function button I assigned to 3D next time I see this to try it out

 

[Ken Miracle]

I was out today with my Z9 and 800PF with the new 4.01 FW. I know there was no mention of any AF improvements but today I shot just over 1,000 images and noticed much less, what I call, AF drift. That is when in a burst, you will get sharp photos, but you will notice some not 100% tack sharp (though 90-95% of people would still say they are sharp) as most in a burst. It could be placebo effect, but today I had virtually zero AF drift in my 1,000+ images. Curious if anyone else noticed this as well. Nikon has been known to not mention a few small tweaks in FW upgrades in the past so who knows. In a previous update (maybe 3.10 or 4.0 can't remember right now) they made mention of an improvement in the very thing. That why I am wondering if they tweaked it without drop it in the list of changes. Has anyone else been out shooting with the new FW update and notice this?

Also corrected is the first image in a burst having a warmer WB when shooting Auto or Auto Natural Light WB. Nice that they corrected that so quickly.

As soon as I updated I took it out and tried it out on some birds around our feeders and a hummingbird that was checking our the seed feeders. I was delighted to see they had fixed the Auto WB on first shot of a burst issue.

I had reported it and it took a couple of times to get through Nikon support not getting the point and not looking at the EXIF data on the images I sent etc. but they finally said they were sending my report to the engineers and if they agreed it was an issue then they would fix it in a firmware update.

I never heard anything else and lo and behold others must have reported it also because here is the fix Makes life easier for the run and gun bird ID photographer where natural light auto wb had been quite effective. I have been using the old sunlight or cloudy setting and birds in and out of shade or clouds coming and going meant more stuff to fix in post.

 

[Ken Miracle]

Thanks for this, I have seen it but was unclear what it was. I will try hitting the function button I assigned to 3D next time I see this to try it out

Make sure the 3D assignment to the function button is 3D AF + AF ON

 

[Dave Stargazer]

As soon as I updated I took it out and tried it out on some birds around our feeders and a hummingbird that was checking our the seed feeders. I was delighted to see they had fixed the Auto WB on first shot of a burst issue.

I had reported it and it took a couple of times to get through Nikon support not getting the point and not looking at the EXIF data on the images I sent etc. but they finally said they were sending my report to the engineers and if they agreed it was an issue then they would fix it in a firmware update.

I never heard anything else and lo and behold others must have reported it also because here is the fix Makes live easier for the run and gun bird ID photographer where natural light auto wb had been quite effective. I have been using the old sunlight or cloudy setting and birds in and out of shade or clouds coming and going meant more stuff to fix in post.

I guess we'll refer to this going foward as The Miracle Fix

btw installed the FW 4.01 without issue, but haven't done any tests. Did seem like less than 6 mins this time. I do think Nikon sneaks in subtle changes even in these .01 revisions, include AF changes - but esp AF with real-world scenarios is extremely difficult to test in a remotely scientific way. Cheers!