Seems like an awesome lens! Wish I could justify $14K!Once I'm done testing the Z9, I'm gonna take you up on that! I think I'm going of the new 400 2.8
Are Lens Hoods Wrecking Your Photos In Cold Weather?
- Thread starter Steve
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When I was younger and hunting in extreme cold weather, we would leave our rifles in our vehicles or on the unheated front porch for at least an hour if not over night. If not the first problem we often encounter is the warm air inside the sealed optics often causes condensation to form on external lenses. It would take the temperature inside my riflescope about 45 minutes or more to equalize depending on temperature from inside to out side. I believe this problem is compounded with modern cameras and lenses being weather sealed and having electronic circuitry which put off some heat. I would recommend that you weather condition your gear before shooting and test accordingly. I would be curious to see what your test results would be after leaving your gear outside in the cold 30\45 minutes before you shoot.
That’s great info. Living in Florida, I don’t run into that issue, but just the oposite. Going from a cold car out to the heat gets condensation on the lens. Also, we are almost always dealing with heat distortion.
You are correct, going from cold to hot has almost the same effect. Heat distortion is a different effect as that is heat that radiates from the surface area in front of you.
Andy Work
Well-known member
Thanks for this Steve! I've run into this problem before but didn't know why.
It seems that a light colored hood cover should help.
It seems that a light colored hood cover should help.
Steelhant
Member
Was up in NY yesterday, temps in the low 20's early..shooting from my truck, all windows opened and shot both ways lens on lens off and it helped and there was a noticeable difference..BUT there wasn't much wind and I think the heat coming off the motor and exhaust rolling up the from under the vehicle was still causing issues... I walked away and it was gone, after about 20 min when the trucked cooled down it went away.
Thanks Steve
Thanks Steve
I am sure I am not the first to thank you Steve since I havent read all the responses. But a big shout out for this post as well as many more over the years that have helped many wildlife photographers improve their photography including me.
That is why it is a no brainer to be a supporting member here so that it will be a continuing resource!
That is why it is a no brainer to be a supporting member here so that it will be a continuing resource!
arbitrage
Well-known member
I don’t think it is the lens hood producing heat that is the problem. The hood would cool very quickly. The lens hood is trapping the cold air which is mixing with heat coming from the lens itself. So essentially concentrating the mixed air right in front of the lens. Without the hood this mix of “bad” air is being dispersed quickly by the wind and moving the lens as it wouldn’t be in great quantities.
What you say makes sense. Probably could repeat the test with a prechilled hood to prove it, but either way he seems to prove the problem comes from the presence of the hood when the lens is warm.
Steve will have plenty of cold coming to Ohio in the next few days to continue his research.
I'll wait for another cool but sunny day here in Fort Myers and see if it makes any difference on or off…if I had known I needed to do this I coulda done it over the weekend or Monday since it was down in the 40s the past week or so. Thank goodness today it's back up to normal 70s to 80s high and 60s low.I've never had it happen (that I know of) with AC + a warm day. Not saying it can't I just haven't spotted it. When I see softness, I always hunt it down and the AC + warm day is WAY more in my wheelhouse than a cold day and warm camera
As for the sun hitting the hood on a cool day, I've had several people mention this since posting the video and that does seem like something that happens.
Yeah…that's my issue. I could actually afford it easily but the bang for the buck isn't there just like it isn't for the Z9 for me…but I'm sure that the Z8 for Z7III or whatever it's called when the tech rolls downhill will be in my hands. The size/weight of both the 400/2.8 and the Z9 along with the 'where do my photos end up' wins the debate for me (at least so far).
lablover27
Well-known member
Awesome info
Andy Work
Well-known member
Yes, I understand that is what Steve explains in the video. I must have completely misunderstood Dan and Steve's later posts; I thought they were describing another scenario, not the one in the video, that could cause a similar problem.
MorganP
Well-known member
It makes total sense now that you bring it up. I wonder when you remove the lens hood that the front element may still cause a small amount of some heat distortion for a bit of time.. I can see how the glass in the lens acts as a battery to store the warmth from the house / car.
You could test this by using a laser temperature gun.
You could test this by using a laser temperature gun.
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Highly unlikely since the convection tunnel of the lens hood ... as shown in Steve's video would no longer be there.
MorganP
Well-known member
Yes removing the hood will take almost all of the heat away from the lens. But the lens glass ect will be at a warmer temp then the outside air so there will be some merging of the temp at the front of the glass. Bottom line is removing the hood makes a big difference and what I'm talking about my make do difference to are photos but its worth considering.
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That's why I research my wants and usually buy used gear from reputable sources. Maybe things will settle out and these will hit the used market at a good price after a while.
There's a lot to be said for buying used…but then you are taking your chances a bit…and even if I could buy a used Z9 for half price the built in grip size/weight makes it unattractive to me…as does the size/weight of the big fast glass that Steve and a lot of people favor. Yes…that glass is very nice and I'm sure I would love the images…but no…I'm not willing to carry it…and even if it was half price 7K or so for a lens in combination with the physical specs would make it not for me. I'm the guy that ditched a Tamron 150-600 G2 for the 500PF for size/weight considerations…and have the 100-400 on order which along with the two TCs will probably end up being used at least as much as the 500PF is since it's more flexible for the same size/weight/IQ (screen resolution IQ…I don't print).
The ultimate solution is to let the equipment reach equilibrium temperature with ambient conditions. If shooting from a vehicle that's easily achieved by simply turning off the heater.
'Course you might wanna' run the defrost to see where you are going.
I agree, that's the best solution. Dress for the weather and you'll be fine.
Backdoor Arts
Well-known member
Steve -
Was thinking, since your wife has one, I'm wondering what impact opening the trap door on the top of the Canon 100-500mm RF (or 100-400mm EF) has on this effect given that heat rises and could potentially escape through the opening instead of lingering inside. I'm normally in the frosty Northeast and would try it myself, but I'm actually on my way to FL. Would be interesting to see if there are any differences. My apologies if you've already tried this and I missed it.
Was thinking, since your wife has one, I'm wondering what impact opening the trap door on the top of the Canon 100-500mm RF (or 100-400mm EF) has on this effect given that heat rises and could potentially escape through the opening instead of lingering inside. I'm normally in the frosty Northeast and would try it myself, but I'm actually on my way to FL. Would be interesting to see if there are any differences. My apologies if you've already tried this and I missed it.
It would be interesting, and I'm not sure. Honestly, we didn't test that lens and I'm not even 100% sure it's an issue with it's hood. If I get a chance I may give it a look. Honesty though, I think it just as easy to pop off the hood until the temps equalize.
Thanks for letting us know about the lens hood issue, Steve. I’m going to be in Yellowstone next week and knowing about this issue will be quite useful. Assuming you do not use the lens hood when initially getting out of your vehicle, is there any need to also allow the camera and lens (apart from the hood) to equalize in temperature to the outside before shooting? Maybe not, as the air inside the camera does not mix with the cold outside air directly and so perhaps does not create the same kind of air currents that are created inside the lens hood?
The golden rule is that you want the gear the same temp as the air. Taking the hood off helps quiet a bit, but ideally you want everything the same temperature if you can.
Thanks.