Camera straps

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I don’t care for straps that attach to the bottom of the camera as I like to carry it on my hip using a ring like you would hold a police baton where I hook it on the tripod foot which I swing slightly off to the side to reach the manual focus ring. I use lenses up to the 600pf with a 1.4tc in size this way. I can do a “quick draw” and get onto a fast moving bird in an instant. I’ve been doing it this way for years with a rope loop but love the baton ring. If I carry a second body it will likely be a wide angle which I carry in my large fanny pack without a strap. When home and not hiking I take the strap off. I use peak design, they are not perfect but I feel confident that I won’t drop the camera with the strap on both camera mounts and the loop on my belt.
My Black Rapids strap is not attached to the bottom of the camera, using any lens with a tripod foot, but instead to the bottom of the after market tripod foot. It is a fast draw ace. I simply swing my Z9 with Z800 up with my right hand placing the tripod foot into the palm of my supporting left hand target rifle style and I am on target with the bird.
 
I don’t use a tripod often so this would make a difference in terms of what you need. I wouldn’t want to have to detach a strap in the field to mount a camera on a tripod though. I can be a clutz.
 
I only use one on occasion when I’m feeling lazy but it is rare. With the new gear available I find it even less likely that I will go that route as I cannot afford the exotic glass. The image quality of the new z line of lenses is good enough for me.
 
I have been using UPstrap since 2018 on my D500 and just ordered a new one for my Z8 can handle camera and my 150-600 G2 Tamron Zoom nice comfortable shoulder stap that stays on shoulder never slips. Check them out Journeycamera.com

I have three and have used them for years. Hasn't the owner retired or did someone buy him out? The pad style looks different than my heavy duty version. They are a bit on the heavy side but are still as new after more years than I can remember.

I never put a strap around my neck and when carrying lenses that don't have a lens strap, rest the strap on my shoulder. My shoulders have some slope to them and the UpStrap doesn't tend to slip off as most other straps I've used do. I'll often forget to put the strap back on when changing to a smaller lens and can manage without one just fine.

I have the cord loop quick disconnect system and take the strap off when carrying any lens that has a strap. It also allows me to completely remove the cord loop so the camera body will fit in an Aquatica Underwater housing.
 
Thanks, I will look into them. My main complaint with the peak is the tendency of them slipping off my back as I have narrow shoulders and hunch over a bit myself. I do like the connection mechanism they have though as I take the strap off when not hiking.
 
I have three and have used them for years. Hasn't the owner retired or did someone buy him out? The pad style looks different than my heavy duty version. They are a bit on the heavy side but are still as new after more years than I can remember.

I never put a strap around my neck and when carrying lenses that don't have a lens strap, rest the strap on my shoulder. My shoulders have some slope to them and the UpStrap doesn't tend to slip off as most other straps I've used do. I'll often forget to put the strap back on when changing to a smaller lens and can manage without one just fine.

I have the cord loop quick disconnect system and take the strap off when carrying any lens that has a strap. It also allows me to completely remove the cord loop so the camera body will fit in an Aquatica Underwater housing.
I talked to the guy that runs and started the company last month to get his advice before I ordered a new strap for my Z8 I have the quick release strap on my D500 he recomended the Moutain strap without the quick release the pad is bigger on shoulder and the strap is stronger for heavy lens. He is looking to sell the company he is in 70's and wants to get out more and shoot and travel. We talked on phone almost an hour told me how he started the company and designed his first strap I think he said has a company making the straps in Colorado . He is down in Port Orange FL Journeycamera.com email [email protected] 386-331-2500
I love his straps they stay put on my shoulder no sliding even on nylon down jacket I have
 
Thanks, I will look into them. My main complaint with the peak is the tendency of them slipping off my back as I have narrow shoulders and hunch over a bit myself. I do like the connection mechanism they have though as I take the strap off when not hiking.
UP Strap wont slip made of a strong vulcanized rubber with grips never slips on me even when I carry on my shoulder with slick nylon jacket website is journeycamera.com they are in Port Orange FL 386-331-2500
 
UP Strap wont slip made of a strong vulcanized rubber with grips never slips on me even when I carry on my shoulder with slick nylon jacket website is journeycamera.com they are in Port Orange FL 386-331-2500

I've read a lot of recommendations for these straps and wanted one for my shoulder bag but found they only do them for cameras ☹️
 
The one I have is this one with the QD connector: BlackRapid Sport X QD, but they don't make that one anymore. :mad:

You can get essentially the same strap, but with a locking carabiner connector here: BlackRapid Sport Breathe Camera Strap

I can't understand their business decision not continuing on with this product line. So frustrating. Why would they not continue to make the QD one. I know I am not the only one that uses QD. I do not want to use their carabiner to clip into my QD, I want the QD direct on the strap like the Sport X QD. I have emailed them and they seem to have no interest to bring them back.
 
I can't understand their business decision not continuing on with this product line. So frustrating. Why would they not continue to make the QD one. I know I am not the only one that uses QD. I do not want to use their carabiner to clip into my QD, I want the QD direct on the strap like the Sport X QD. I have emailed them and they seem to have no interest to bring them back.

I added a QD connector to my Peak Design Slide Strap by attaching a Kirk QD Quick Disconnect to the PD anchors that come with the strap. This solution works just as well as my BR Sport X QD strap!

You can get cheaper QD connectors than the Kirk one that I linked, but I liked the raised "Swivel-D "protective bridge that they use. The connector has been rock solid thus far.

I would also recommend opting for the thicker PD Slide Strap (for better comfort), vs the thinner Slide Lite version.
 
I have not tried the PD system, I have been QD for as long as I can remember. I may have to try the PD system though, it really seems like alot of people are liking it.

@SoCalRick in your setup, you have one of the PD with a QD going to the base of the camera and the other to a side eyelet?
 
I have not tried the PD system, I have been QD for as long as I can remember. I may have to try the PD system though, it really seems like alot of people are liking it.

@SoCalRick in your setup, you have one of the PD with a QD going to the base of the camera and the other to a side eyelet?
You could do that, but for my main use I attach both PD anchors to the Swivel-D on the QD connector and then plug the QD connector into the lens foot of my 600 TC (or 500 PF if I am using that lens). This is similar to how the BR strap would attach to the lens. Connected this way the camera and lens are nicely balanced at my hip.

I sometimes use a PD wrist strap attached to my camera body when I'm doing a fair amount of walking, and I can also attach a safety tether from the QD connector to one of the strap mount points on the lens for additional security. Lots of options here...
 
I got a 404 on that link. Scoured B&H,Kirk and RRS and nobody has a 1/4-20 stud x QD Socket. In the process I decided not to tie up the tripod threads or have the socket on the bottom where the strap needs to be removed to use a tripod. I'm going to drill and tap the foot and put a Magpul Type 1 QD socket on the side so it can stay attached until the lens is mounted. I'll borrow the single/2 point Magpul sling from my AR and give it a try. They make a very nice sling.
I might be completely misunderstanding what you're looking for so I apologize but are you looking for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MQ2H373
 
I got a 404 on that link. Scoured B&H,Kirk and RRS and nobody has a 1/4-20 stud x QD Socket. In the process I decided not to tie up the tripod threads or have the socket on the bottom where the strap needs to be removed to use a tripod. I'm going to drill and tap the foot and put a Magpul Type 1 QD socket on the side so it can stay attached until the lens is mounted. I'll borrow the single/2 point Magpul sling from my AR and give it a try. They make a very nice sling.
If you decide to drill and tap the foot, please use one of these instead:
Rivet Nut
This is a pack of 30 but I'm sure you can find just one or two at any local hardware store. They are fairly common things.
The lens foot is made of cast aluminum and is very soft and "crumbly". Even if you manage to get it threaded 1/4X20, I would never trust it to hold a screw.

I did this on a Sigma lens foot and the lens foot on my Nikon 200-500. Drill the appropriate size hole for the outside diameter of the rivet nut. I think it was 5/16 but can't remember, a caliper or ruler will tell you.

Test fit the thickness since you may have to file a little off as the rivet nut may be longer than the thickness of the foot. It was that way with the Sigma lens but on the Nikon lens it was fine. Do this before gluing it in if you can otherwise you will probably scratch the lens foot when you file it already installed.

I then mixed up some epoxy, applied the epoxy to the nut and inserted it into the hole drilled. If you notice, the rivet nut has a wider flat area, that goes between the lens foot and the lens (or opposite the direction where force will be applied).

Once the epoxy cured and everything was set, I used a little black paint to blend everything together. Honestly, it looks just like the factory tripod mount hole when all done,.



This is the type of use these things are made for (well that and wood working where you want to bolt things like shelves etc.). Bottom line, these work very well where trying to thread cast aluminum will not work well.

Hope this helps.
 
If you decide to drill and tap the foot, please use one of these instead:
Rivet Nut
This is a pack of 30 but I'm sure you can find just one or two at any local hardware store. They are fairly common things.
The lens foot is made of cast aluminum and is very soft and "crumbly". Even if you manage to get it threaded 1/4X20, I would never trust it to hold a screw.

I did this on a Sigma lens foot and the lens foot on my Nikon 200-500. Drill the appropriate size hole for the outside diameter of the rivet nut. I think it was 5/16 but can't remember, a caliper or ruler will tell you.

Test fit the thickness since you may have to file a little off as the rivet nut may be longer than the thickness of the foot. It was that way with the Sigma lens but on the Nikon lens it was fine. Do this before gluing it in if you can otherwise you will probably scratch the lens foot when you file it already installed.

I then mixed up some epoxy, applied the epoxy to the nut and inserted it into the hole drilled. If you notice, the rivet nut has a wider flat area, that goes between the lens foot and the lens (or opposite the direction where force will be applied).

Once the epoxy cured and everything was set, I used a little black paint to blend everything together. Honestly, it looks just like the factory tripod mount hole when all done,.



This is the type of use these things are made for (well that and wood working where you want to bolt things like shelves etc.). Bottom line, these work very well where trying to thread cast aluminum will not work well.

Hope this helps.
Riv-nuts are meant to be crimped in place with a special crimping tool. I would not trust epoxy to hold in place.
 
If you decide to drill and tap the foot, please use one of these instead:
Rivet Nut
This is a pack of 30 but I'm sure you can find just one or two at any local hardware store. They are fairly common things.
The lens foot is made of cast aluminum and is very soft and "crumbly". Even if you manage to get it threaded 1/4X20, I would never trust it to hold a screw.

I did this on a Sigma lens foot and the lens foot on my Nikon 200-500. Drill the appropriate size hole for the outside diameter of the rivet nut. I think it was 5/16 but can't remember, a caliper or ruler will tell you.

Test fit the thickness since you may have to file a little off as the rivet nut may be longer than the thickness of the foot. It was that way with the Sigma lens but on the Nikon lens it was fine. Do this before gluing it in if you can otherwise you will probably scratch the lens foot when you file it already installed.

I then mixed up some epoxy, applied the epoxy to the nut and inserted it into the hole drilled. If you notice, the rivet nut has a wider flat area, that goes between the lens foot and the lens (or opposite the direction where force will be applied).

Once the epoxy cured and everything was set, I used a little black paint to blend everything together. Honestly, it looks just like the factory tripod mount hole when all done,.



This is the type of use these things are made for (well that and wood working where you want to bolt things like shelves etc.). Bottom line, these work very well where trying to thread cast aluminum will not work well.

Hope this helps.

Riv-nuts are meant to be crimped in place with a special crimping tool. I would not trust epoxy to hold in place.
I have a full set of these (machine screws to bolts) along with an American made instillation tool set. Helicoil might work well too making the threads high tensile Steel. Thank You for the suggestions! I had not thought about the Cast nature of the already soft aluminum.
 
I have a full set of these (machine screws to bolts) along with an American made instillation tool set. Helicoil might work well too making the threads high tensile Steel. Thank You for the suggestions! I had not thought about the Cast nature of the already soft aluminum.
Sounds good. One consideration is to use stainless steel for the insert. Mild steel / carbon steel can and will rust over time. I doubt if it would be a huge problem with camera gear but if the threads rust, it becomes more difficult to remove the screw when they rust together. Stainless is only slightly more expensive but it saves frustration later.

Hope it all works out for you.
 
Regarding Black Rapid not bringing back the QD connector strap, my guess is that the issue is the cost of the QD connector. Adding it may make the BR strap too expensive and not competitive. Like others have stated, I prefer the QD and do not want to use it with another clip or device between it any my strap connector. Pro Media Gear has a QD product like Kirk Enterprises.
 
Have a look at American made UP Straps - they don't slip off your shoulder
I use them on most of my cameras. Unfortunately they are apparently not in production anymore. The maker is retiring (Company name is Journey Camera) but the web site looks to still be active for purchasing stock on hand. I last bought one a few months ago (I have used them for over 10 years and do use straps on all my cameras).
 
Sounds good. One consideration is to use stainless steel for the insert. Mild steel / carbon steel can and will rust over time. I doubt if it would be a huge problem with camera gear but if the threads rust, it becomes more difficult to remove the screw when they rust together. Stainless is only slightly more expensive but it saves frustration later.

Hope it all works out for you.
But you have to watch Stainless Steel now. I've had stainless bolts from China gall and Seize on the First Use and break the bolt during removal. "It's always something" Gilda Radner
 
Helicoil is probably the best solution. Many lens feet come that way. Rivet-nuts have a protruding base and a flange on top that extends above the surface of the hole. That flange might interfere with arcaswift mounting.

Bollhoff-Rivet-Sample-700x577.png
 
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Helicoil is probably the best solution. Many lens feet come that way. Rivet-nuts have a protruding base and a flange on top that extends above the surface of the hole. That flange might interfere with arcaswift mounting.

View attachment 90244
not if the flange is put on the part of the foot that is between the lens and foot (bottom / top depending on which way you're looking at it. The part that goes where the Arca Swiss attachment would be is flush with no flange protruding. I've used them on a couple lens feet and zero problems.
 
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