Equipment storage while overlanding or on rough vehicle trails

[RichF]

One thing I would be be VERY careful about, is to detach the body from the lens. On my first trips to AFrica, circa 2000, the road were so bad that if we left camera attached to a big lens, the mount would work itself out of the body. In essence the screws would come loose. Not a pretty picture to have the camera detach from the body for no reason. though the roads are much better today, I still do not attached a body and lens when travel long distances over rough roads.

 

[Ken Miracle]

I do a fair amount of Idaho 2 track in a Toyota Rav4 Adventure with better tires and a lot of self rescue gear. I was a hard core 4 wheel drive club member with a 71 Ford Bronco and later a Ford ranger 4x4 and a Land Rover Discovery. In my retirement years I find that the Rav4 Adventure fits my birding and photography wandering needs well. I have a closet full of camera bags. I have used the hard sided cooler with foam inserted in the past still have the cooler but now I use it as a cooler. If I was still doing hard core off roading as I did in the old days I would definetly use the Pelican or similar as noted above. I sold my D6 and D500 and pre ordered a Z9. I now just use my D850 with grip and big battery and primarily my Nikkor 600mm f/4 E attached. I have converted 2 Think Tank Travel Retrospective 50 Duffels with foam padding I installed in one and a think tank stash master on one end. https://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/stash-master-13l . I carry detached bodies or bodies with short lenses etc in the stash master and spare clothes etc. in the other end. The two duffels ride on the padded back seat and I can carry both in and out of the house with ease at the same time and they do not shout camera gear in the vehicle and I leave the padded one unzipped and open and the other with the extra jackete end open when away from the vehicle to show there is nothing in there https://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/stash-master-13 l Here are some quick shots I took a while back when I first started to install the foam. I have foam cut to fit on both ends of the duffel and over the top of the camera and lens before I zip up if I would carry it in the back of the vehicle or someone elses rig etc.. The set up works for my mix and match needs and gets customized to fit the outing. I usually leave out the padding on the end since I have a Lens Coat BodyGuard Pro on the D850 with grip and a Lens Coat Hoodie Lens hood cover for the 600 f/4E on the gear.

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[JimFromAZ]

I have two vanguard cases, but having added a couple of lenses to my gear, I went bigger with the Peli.

the benefit of the vanguard padded liners is that they’re actually soft cases that you can remove and use in a back pack or whatever.
one is the 27D case which is practically made gfor the z14-24


here’s the bag with the lens centre, and the two hoods either side, perfect fit…
View attachment 28826
Here’s the z14-24 with hood attached to the z6, in the bag…
View attachment 28825

The padding in your Vanguard cases looks extra protective, not like some of the thin padding I've seen in a few setups. Thanks, Patrick!

 

[JimFromAZ]

One thing I would be be VERY careful about, is to detach the body from the lens. On my first trips to AFrica, circa 2000, the road were so bad that if we left camera attached to a big lens, the mount would work itself out of the body. In essence the screws would come loose. Not a pretty picture to have the camera detach from the body for no reason. though the roads are much better today, I still do not attached a body and lens when travel long distances over rough roads.

Thanks for that insight, Rich! I'd be very upset if the lens mount detached from the camera body, especially if I was in Africa!

 

[JimFromAZ]

I do a fair amount of Idaho 2 track in a Toyota Rav4 Adventure with better tires and a lot of self rescue gear. I was a hard core 4 wheel drive club member with a 71 Ford Bronco and later a Ford ranger 4x4 and a Land Rover Discovery. In my retirement years I find that the Rav4 Adventure fits my birding and photography wandering needs well. I have a closet full of camera bags. I have used the hard sided cooler with foam inserted in the past still have the cooler but now I use it as a cooler. If I was still doing hard core off roading as I did in the old days I would definetly use the Pelican or similar as noted above. I sold my D6 and D500 and pre ordered a Z9. I now just use my D850 with grip and big battery and primarily my Nikkor 600mm f/4 E attached. I have converted 2 Think Tank Travel Retrospective 50 Duffels with foam padding I installed in one and a think tank stash master on one end. https://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/stash-master-13l . I carry detached bodies or bodies with short lenses etc in the stash master and spare clothes etc. in the other end. The two duffels ride on the padded back seat and I can carry both in and out of the house with ease at the same time and they do not shout camera gear in the vehicle and I leave the padded one unzipped and open and the other with the extra jackete end open when away from the vehicle to show there is nothing in there https://www.thinktankphoto.com/products/stash-master-13 l Here are some quick shots I took a while back when I first started to install the foam. I have foam cut to fit on both ends of the duffel and over the top of the camera and lens before I zip up if I would carry it in the back of the vehicle or someone elses rig etc.. The set up works for my mix and match needs and gets customized to fit the outing. I usually leave out the padding on the end since I have a Lens Coat BodyGuard Pro on the D850 with grip and a Lens Coat Hoodie Lens hood cover for the 600 f/4E on the gear. View attachment 28827View attachment 28828

Ken, thank you for the details on your set up. I didn't know about the BodyGuard Pro until you mentioned it. Neat idea. Do you think using a BodyGuard Pro would prevent potential damage of the camera's lens mount as Rich mentioned? Take care...Jim.

 

[Warren D]

I have a couple of Storm Cases that I really like, I think the latches are better than the Pelican. Oh wait, Pelican bought out Storm Case because they wanted their latch design......

 

[Ken Miracle]

Ken, thank you for the details on your set up. I didn't know about the BodyGuard Pro until you mentioned it. Neat idea. Do you think using a BodyGuard Pro would prevent potential damage of the camera's lens mount as Rich mentioned? Take care...Jim.

The BodyGaurd mostly protects from impact and scrathes to the outside of the body. It would not help the issue Rich mentioned. I the type of extreme condition Rich mentioned you need the lens and body combo secured in such a way that you did not have the body and lens not moving against each other and my homemade rig does that when I place it with the top of the body and lens on the foam. What would cause the problem he had would the weight of a big lens impacting/torquing on the lens mount in the camera body as happens if someone tries to pick up a body with a 600 f/4 attached by the body only rather by the lens. And in that scenario you also have vibration and it is at it's worst on the metal floor of a safari vehicle. As I mentioned if I was going to subject the gear to serious 4x4 or heavy vibration situations in the unpadded back of an SUV or safari vehicle I would keep the body and lens separate and did in Africa on planes etc.. and I used a pelican in the back of other vehicles I had. I no longer use a pelican since I keep my gear on the cushy back seat 98% of the time. When I am actively looking for critters and ready to shoot and in a traveling vehicle the speeds are lower and when I am not the driver I have hands on control. If I am cruising for birds where it is safe and effective and driving I have folded up fleece top set up in and over the cup holder in front of my console to rest the body on and the lens is in my lap and I am at slow speeds window down ready to shoot.

 

[JimFromAZ]

The BodyGaurd mostly protects from impact and scrathes to the outside of the body. It would not help the issue Rich mentioned. I the type of extreme condition Rich mentioned you need the lens and body combo secured in such a way that you did not have the body and lens not moving against each other and my homemade rig does that when I place it with the top of the body and lens on the foam. What would cause the problem he had would the weight of a big lens impacting/torquing on the lens mount in the camera body as happens if someone tries to pick up a body with a 600 f/4 attached by the body only rather by the lens. And in that scenario you also have vibration and it is at it's worst on the metal floor of a safari vehicle. As I mentioned if I was going to subject the gear to serious 4x4 or heavy vibration situations in the unpadded back of an SUV or safari vehicle I would keep the body and lens separate and did in Africa on planes etc.. and I used a pelican in the back of other vehicles I had. I no longer use a pelican since I keep my gear on the cushy back seat 98% of the time. When I am actively looking for critters and ready to shoot and in a traveling vehicle the speeds are lower and when I am not the driver I have hands on control. If I am cruising for birds where it is safe and effective and driving I have folded up fleece top set up in and over the cup holder in front of my console to rest the body on and the lens is in my lap and I am at slow speeds window down ready to shoot.

Perfect, thank you, Ken!

 

[Dave Sproul]

Reference your statement : "Two locks keep the case attached to the truck and 2 additional locks keep the case locked for when I have to leave stuff in there for extended periods."

Will you discuss and/or provide close up photographs of the locking system you use?

 

[Karl Gillard]

Hey guys! I just purchased (but yet to arrive at the dealership) a 2021 Jeep Gladiator with a Leer 100XQ camper shell and plan a Colorado trip in March 2022. I’m glad this topic came up as I was considering the same question. In my case, I don’t intend to remove any seats or permanently attach the case to any one point. I like the idea of a large Pelican case and will secure with straps to points I may have to add.
To save some research time, do any of you know a model number that would hold a D5, Z7, and lenses - including my 600mm f/4? Also, where are you getting the padding to separate the pieces? Thanks much!

 

[Ken Miracle]

Reference your statement : "Two locks keep the case attached to the truck and 2 additional locks keep the case locked for when I have to leave stuff in there for extended periods."

Will you discuss and/or provide close up photographs of the locking system you use?

@grossidm @Dave Sproul Dave a new member tip if you have a specific question for an individual member it can be best to click on reply to that persons specific comment in a thread.

 

[grossidm]

Hey guys! I just purchased (but yet to arrive at the dealership) a 2021 Jeep Gladiator with a Leer 100XQ camper shell and plan a Colorado trip in March 2022. I’m glad this topic came up as I was considering the same question. In my case, I don’t intend to remove any seats or permanently attach the case to any one point. I like the idea of a large Pelican case and will secure with straps to points I may have to add.
To save some research time, do any of you know a model number that would hold a D5, Z7, and lenses - including my 600mm f/4? Also, where are you getting the padding to separate the pieces? Thanks much!

I use the Pelican IM2950 Storm. It will fit all of that and more. Look it up at the Pelican website and you'll see all the foam/ padding options.

 

[grossidm]

Reference your statement : "Two locks keep the case attached to the truck and 2 additional locks keep the case locked for when I have to leave stuff in there for extended periods."

Will you discuss and/or provide close up photographs of the locking system you use?

Keep in mind that I completely removed my backseats. There are welded loops behind them that I attach 2 cable locks to and then run those loops through each handle. The case itself has holes for padlocks. That's how I lock the case itself. It's then secured to the floor with endless ratchet straps through the handles and into where the seatbelts used to connect to the floor. Previously to removing the seats I laid the rear seat flat and had the case on that. All the locking was the same however, I didn't have a good spot to secure the case down to the truck. I do A LOT of traveling, the truck is 2 years old and had 56,000 miles on it. Removing the seats added a ton of needed cargo space. It's a 4 door Tacoma.

 

[Dave Sproul]

Keep in mind that I completely removed my backseats. There are welded loops behind them that I attach 2 cable locks to and then run those loops through each handle. The case itself has holes for padlocks. That's how I lock the case itself. It's then secured to the floor with endless ratchet straps through the handles and into where the seatbelts used to connect to the floor. Previously to removing the seats I laid the rear seat flat and had the case on that. All the locking was the same however, I didn't have a good spot to secure the case down to the truck. I do A LOT of traveling, the truck is 2 years old and had 56,000 miles on it. Removing the seats added a ton of needed cargo space. It's a 4 door Tacoma.

Thank you

 

[Karl Gillard]

I use the Pelican IM2950 Storm. It will fit all of that and more. Look it up at the Pelican website and you'll see all the foam/ padding options.

Thanks much! Looks promising!

 

[Calson]

With an SUV you already have a "soft" suspension. If you place your gear behind the front seats it will experience the least amount of bouncing. Put a quilt or moving pad folded up on the floor which will also help. A hard case is not a good idea except for shipping equipment.

Two other things that will help is to let air out of the tires and drive slower. The advantage of a 4WD vehicle with 4WD Low is being able to maintain engine rpm's while crawling along at very low speeds. I like the various Viair compressors that will run off a car battery or can plug into the cigarette socket to inflate the tires or simply drive at 50 mph to the nearest gas station and then add 5 PSI more than specified to allow for the hotter air inside the tires.

 

[Nimi]

Another case to consider is Nanuk. I needed a case in a hurry, Pelican was sold out everywhere but Nanuk wasn't. So far, it's as good a case as any of my Pelicans and better in some respects.

 

[Nimi]

I recently outfitted a Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ78 (Troopy) for exactly that purpose. The back is essentially a big box. I installed four l-tracks I got from US Cargo the entire length. Recovery gear is in a Pelican cargo box against the seats. Various Pelicans, tripod, etc closer to the rear door, strapped down with connectors, straps and bungee cords.

I don't have a picture of the interior, but it's very straightforward.

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[Roy]

Hi All, Does anyone have a solution or ideas on how to protect photography equipment from getting vibrated to pieces while 4x4ing or overlanding on rough roads and trails? I'm expecting my Z9 soon (right!?) and my longest lens is my Nikon 500mm PF (for now). I have a Lowepro 450 but it's not so structurally sound (a current D850/500PF slowly sag to the bottom of the bag). Do you think one of the Pelican foam-insulated cases would keep my equipment safe during vehicle gyrations? I'm not talking about rock climbing but light overlanding in a Lexus GX470 to get me places my Honda Accord can't. It's all part of my plan to expand my horizons for photography (and video) opportunities I don't currently have. Thanks!

I have a pile of blankets and I strap my camera case on top of the pile. I also have a layer of bubble wrap in there somewhere for bubble popping therapy

 

[JimFromAZ]

I recently outfitted a Toyota Land Cruiser HZJ78 (Troopy) for exactly that purpose. The back is essentially a big box. I installed four l-tracks I got from US Cargo the entire length. Recovery gear is in a Pelican cargo box against the seats. Various Pelicans, tripod, etc closer to the rear door, strapped down with connectors, straps and bungee cords.

I don't have a picture of the interior, but it's very straightforward.

View attachment 28977

Thanks for your set up, Nimi! I think I found the correct US Cargo website at https://www.uscargocontrol.com/collections/airline-straps-hardware. If you end up taking any interior pics, please post them. I'm also interested in what works for you regarding trip logistics: e.g. length of trips, all overlanding vs splitting overnights in hotels, resupplying and warm showers vs roughing it for the full length of the trip. Take care...

 

[Nimi]

Thanks for your set up, Nimi! I think I found the correct US Cargo website at https://www.uscargocontrol.com/collections/airline-straps-hardware. If you end up taking any interior pics, please post them. I'm also interested in what works for you regarding trip logistics: e.g. length of trips, all overlanding vs splitting overnights in hotels, resupplying and warm showers vs roughing it for the full length of the trip. Take care...

I will. I'm having built for me some teak boxes where I can stow my soft bags and as soon as that's done.

As far as my trips, the truck is located in the Central Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, where I live. It's a small country and I decided not to try to overnight, so I typically pick up a basecamp (ie the best hotel I can find) and go from there. That also simplifies the truck set-up: no tent and no fridge, just a stocked Yeti, recovery gear and photography gear. And a small humidor. The terrain can get very rugged very fast and in the green season we get water-crossings often. So you don't have to cover a lot of miles to have fun.

 

[gKhan]

Hi All, Does anyone have a solution or ideas on how to protect photography equipment from getting vibrated to pieces while 4x4ing or overlanding on rough roads and trails? I'm expecting my Z9 soon (right!?) and my longest lens is my Nikon 500mm PF (for now). I have a Lowepro 450 but it's not so structurally sound (a current D850/500PF slowly sag to the bottom of the bag). Do you think one of the Pelican foam-insulated cases would keep my equipment safe during vehicle gyrations? I'm not talking about rock climbing but light overlanding in a Lexus GX470 to get me places my Honda Accord can't. It's all part of my plan to expand my horizons for photography (and video) opportunities I don't currently have. Thanks!

I have been driving 4x4 roads for over 50 years and have been on all kinds of roads. Roads where it might take an hour to go four miles or maybe reach speeds of up to 20mph on horribly washboarded roads--those are the worst.

I keep the camera on the floor in a standard padded camera bag/backpack and have never had a problem. If there might be an opportunity for a quick wildlife shot I will keep the between my legs, with the zoom lens pointing down, so that I can retrieve it quickly, but otherwise it is in a padded bag.

I have never needed a hard sided container for the camera but do put sensitive electronic gear like GPS's in a hard sided pistol case and never had a problem but the downside is the time it takes to access and open a hard sided case.

There were a couple of times I've had body parts injured from unseen road bumps/drops/holes etc. but the cameras have never been damaged. Go slow and take it easy.

 

[JimFromAZ]

I have been driving 4x4 roads for over 50 years and have been on all kinds of roads. Roads where it might take an hour to go four miles or maybe reach speeds of up to 20mph on horribly washboarded roads--those are the worst.

I keep the camera on the floor in a standard padded camera bag/backpack and have never had a problem. If there might be an opportunity for a quick wildlife shot I will keep the between my legs, with the zoom lens pointing down, so that I can retrieve it quickly, but otherwise it is in a padded bag.

I have never needed a hard sided container for the camera but do put sensitive electronic gear like GPS's in a hard sided pistol case and never had a problem but the downside is the time it takes to access and open a hard sided case.

There were a couple of times I've had body parts injured from unseen road bumps/drops/holes etc. but the cameras have never been damaged. Go slow and take it easy.

Excellent insights, gKhan. Thank you so much for that! I completely understand the idea of having instant access to the camera while driving. Take care...

 

[JimFromAZ]

I will. I'm having built for me some teak boxes where I can stow my soft bags and as soon as that's done.

As far as my trips, the truck is located in the Central Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, where I live. It's a small country and I decided not to try to overnight, so I typically pick up a basecamp (ie the best hotel I can find) and go from there. That also simplifies the truck set-up: no tent and no fridge, just a stocked Yeti, recovery gear and photography gear. And a small humidor. The terrain can get very rugged very fast and in the green season we get water-crossings often. So you don't have to cover a lot of miles to have fun.

So basically you do one-day out-and-backs? Yes, that does cut down on the logistics and equipment needs! Like you mentioned, I've also seen some serious overlanding setups with battery powered refrigerators and expensive roof top tents but the idea of using a hotel as basecamp has some appeal. To cover some rougher terrain I'm still looking at raising the vehicle a few inches, adding front and rear offroad bumpers and recovery equipment. Probably also want to add communication and navigation gear too.

 

[Nimi]

So basically you do one-day out-and-backs? Yes, that does cut down on the logistics and equipment needs! Like you mentioned, I've also seen some serious overlanding setups with battery powered refrigerators and expensive roof top tents but the idea of using a hotel as basecamp has some appeal. To cover some rougher terrain I'm still looking at raising the vehicle a few inches, adding front and rear offroad bumpers and recovery equipment. Probably also want to add communication and navigation gear too.

Costa Rica doesn't lend itself to overlanding as does the American West.

Lifting is great, to a point. For most, a 2 inch is more then enough. Steel bumpers add significant weight and the aluminum ones are just for show, so ask yourself if you really need those. Consider lockers and a winch. Best equipment is made by ARB.

The most common mistake in outfitting a truck is making it too heavy.