Exactly!Another point of stability and it reduces the likelihood of the base rotating.
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Exactly!Another point of stability and it reduces the likelihood of the base rotating.
I've been using the Hejnar foot replacements as well. Has he indicated that he'll just recommend one of his foot plates for it? I may just get the Kirk plate that's being used now by some when I hear mine has shipped. I can have it shipped from B&H at the same time.On the other hand since the 500 pf came out with the fall off foot I have replaced every lens foot with a Hejnar foot and only used plates temporarily until a replacement foot was available. That could change with this one since it is a foot and collar assembly and Hejnar has said he does not intend to make a replacement assembly for this lens.
I'm a big fan of Chris' work as well. From our communication, he's planning on making a plate for it once he receives a lens for templating. I don't believe he intends on making a collar assembly. For those, we'll have to wait for Kirk or another vendor. Insofar as Ken's comments were concerned, I've never like single point attachments for accessory SA plates. Every single one I had on Canon and Sony lenses loosened up after a while and sometimes caused scratching as well in spite of integrated rubber grip points.I've been using the Hejnar foot replacements as well. Has he indicated that he'll just recommend one of his foot plates for it? I may just get the Kirk plate that's being used now by some when I hear mine has shipped. I can have it shipped from B&H at the same time.
Interesting that his QD plates have a fixed ridge. Not sure that will be ideal in this instance. So you may want to mention that. Seems like he will want a few length options. I am not sure what is special about this lens vs what he offers currently so maybe you can reach out and see what he has in mind or maybe people should speak up. I haven't decided what length I will get and was waiting for my lens to arrive. I am leaning towards 5.25. Makes more grip space when carrying and give me more options for balancing on my Flexshooter. Thoughts?I'm a big fan of Chris' work as well. From our communication, he's planning on making a plate for it once he receives a lens for templating. I don't believe he intends on making a collar assembly. For those, we'll have to wait for Kirk or another vendor. Insofar as Ken's comments were concerned, I've never like single point attachments for accessory SA plates. Every single one I had on Canon and Sony lenses loosened up after a while and sometimes caused scratching as well in spite of integrated rubber grip points.
I never had a plate on a lens foot with with rubber grip points. Could that rubber compress over time and be why they loosened up? The metal on metal tightened well was never an problem for me but I used plates on lenses far less than most. I use and used them more as an attachment point for my black rapids straps and to rest in the palm of my hand target rifle style when shooting.I'm a big fan of Chris' work as well. From our communication, he's planning on making a plate for it once he receives a lens for templating. I don't believe he intends on making a collar assembly. For those, we'll have to wait for Kirk or another vendor. Insofar as Ken's comments were concerned, I've never like single point attachments for accessory SA plates. Every single one I had on Canon and Sony lenses loosened up after a while and sometimes caused scratching as well in spite of integrated rubber grip points.
5.25" should be long enough. I used that 6" RRS shown on my Z 180-600 above on my 600 f/4 E with D6 and gripped D850 and tested them on my Flexshooter Pro with clamp and it worked great. I also tested the Z9 and Z800 on the flexshooter but that was with the Hejnar "beta" replacement foot I was testing for him and it worked great. It hopefully will be many years yet before I need to put the Z80-600 on a tripod or monopod compared to the 600 f4E I bought the Flexshooter to use with and even my old Sigma 150-600 sport that I bought the wimberly gimbal for it is a dinky little thingInteresting that his QD plates have a fixed ridge. Not sure that will be ideal in this instance. So you may want to mention that. Seems like he will want a few length options. I am not sure what is special about this lens vs what he offers currently so maybe you can reach out and see what he has in mind or maybe people should speak up. I haven't decided what length I will get and was waiting for my lens to arrive. I am leaning towards 5.25. Makes more grip space when carrying and give me more options for balancing on my Flexshooter. Thoughts?
Chris told me that he was not planning on making a replacement collar and foot assembly as that one piece unit would be quite expensive, much more than the foot only replacement on other lenses like Z800, Z100-400 etc. and he does not expect those buying a lens at this price level would want to pay that price.I've been using the Hejnar foot replacements as well. Has he indicated that he'll just recommend one of his foot plates for it? I may just get the Kirk plate that's being used now by some when I hear mine has shipped. I can have it shipped from B&H at the same time.
I understand that, but what about a plate specifically for this lens? Or will we just buy another plate in the hopes it will work ok?Chris told me that he was not planning on making a replacement collar and foot assembly as that one piece unit would be quite expensive, much more than the foot only replacement on other lenses like Z800, Z100-400 etc. and he does not expect those buying a lens at this price level would want to pay that price.
He plans on making a plate but I just used the RRS plate I had on hand photo of it on the lens is posted earlier. It works great for me, I also had spare lens caps, Break through photography UV and CPL filters that were the right size so got lucky.I understand that, but what about a plate specifically for this lens? Or will we just buy another plate in the hopes it will work ok?
I need a plate with a QD. Thinking of the Kirk plate others have showed.He plans on making a plate but I just used the RRS plate I had on hand photo of it on the lens is posted earlier. It works great for me, I also had spare lens caps, Break through photography UV and CPL filters that were the right size so got lucky.
I do not have a need for QD so just my old fashioned threaded hole for my BR strap works.I need a plate with a QD. Thinking of the Kirk plate others have showed.
The other hole is for they QD. I have a Really Right Stuff plate that was in my drawer and have used it multiple times it attaches the same way and has a threaded hole for my BR strap attachement. I have not had any issues with any looseness after multiple uses since 9-5-23 and do not expect any. I would not expect any issues with the Henjar plate. I use my 180-600 on my Z9. I will replace the whole collar assembly with a RRS when it is available just as I did with my f mount 200-500.I just received the new Henjar plate for my 180-600. I ordered it because I wanted a OD attachment point and their quality is good. Unfortunately, I decided not to use it because of two reasons. First, there is only one screw that attaches the plate to the lens foot. There are two threaded holes in the foot, why not use two screws? Second, the screw that attaches the plate is the smaller of the two possible thread sizes, the 1/4-20. Why not use that big 3/8 hole? Why not use both? Even with a stainless thread inserts in that cast aluminum foot, there doesn't seem to be much material to support all that weight. That's my shade tree engineering analysis.
I had asked the same questions when I saw the prototype. I think this is not one of their better efforts.Here is my shade tree engineering analysis of the new Henjar lens plate I just received for the 180-600. I ordered it because I wanted a OD attachment point and Henjar's quality is good. Unfortunately, I decided not to use it because of two reasons. First, there is only one screw that attaches the plate to the lens foot. There are two threaded holes in the foot, why not use two screws? Second, the screw that attaches the plate is the smaller of the two possible thread sizes, the 1/4-20. Why not use that big 3/8 hole? Why not use both? Even with stainless thread inserts in the cast wonder metal foot, there doesn't seem to be much material to support all that weight when dangling from a QD attachment.
I might feel better with a longer screw that extends through the foot, allowing a nut of the other end.
I definitely wouldn’t use that QD point.Yes, it's obvious that other hole is the QD point. My point is, it could have been relocated to allow use of two mounting fasteners instead on one.
I also wonder about the durability of the QD attachment hole. It's machined in the aluminum base metal where the RRS version has a much harder stainless insert.
I honestly know nothing about QD so can not comment. The Really Right Stuff plate I have uses the same hole in the foot, in fact every plate I have ever seen which is not many uses that hole. It seems very solid and I have had no problem.Yes, it's obvious that other hole is the QD point. My point is, it could have been relocated to allow use of two mounting fasteners instead on one.
I also wonder about the durability of the QD attachment hole. It's machined in the aluminum base metal where the RRS version has a much harder stainless insert.
Do you want to sell me the foot? I've never had a Hejnar product fail and as much as I don't like the idea of a plate on a foot, the $250 Kirk thing is not a good value IMHO. And the IShoot is not an option because of the lack of the QD connect.Here is my shade tree engineering analysis of the new Henjar lens plate I just received for the 180-600. I ordered it because I wanted a OD attachment point and Henjar's quality is good. Unfortunately, I decided not to use it because of two reasons. First, there is only one screw that attaches the plate to the lens foot. There are two threaded holes in the foot, why not use two screws? Second, the screw that attaches the plate is the smaller of the two possible thread sizes, the 1/4". Why not use that big 3/8 hole? Why not use both? Even with stainless thread inserts in the cast wonder metal foot, there doesn't seem to be much material to support all that weight when dangling from a QD attachment.
I might feel better with a longer screw that extends through the foot, allowing a nut of the other end.