The red Loctite, super retaining compound or super thread locker can be removed by using heat, a fair bit if I might add. Small parts can be nigh on impossible. Red is normally a danger signal....with Loctite, consider it so.
Loctite
- Thread starter ssheipel
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Flyboy
Active member
There is a purple Loctite that is said to be easier to release screws fastened with it. As mentioned, nail polish works fine, too.
Yep, that is the Loctite 222.There is a purple Loctite that is said to be easier to release screws fastened with it. As mentioned, nail polish works fine, too.
JimmyT
New member
I still use clear fingernail polish on the Screw Heads of glasses and other small screws. All I am looking for is something to foul the Screw Head to keep it from backing out. This will also make the screws easier to remove. Never use fingernail polish on the Screw Threads. Also, remember to check regularly.
Vincent_VdB
Well-known member
For what it is worth, Weicon is a worthy alternative for the overpriced Loctite. The Weicon alternative is conveniently having the last 3 digits in their range that matches that of Loctite 
German quality stuff
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www.weicon.de
German quality stuff
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Mal Paso
Active member
Loctite is now manufactured by Henkel of India and at a competitive price.For what it is worth, Weicon is a worthy alternative for the overpriced Loctite. The Weicon alternative is conveniently having the last 3 digits in their range that matches that of Loctite
Adhesives and Sealants | WEICON
Discover ✓ Elastic Adhesives ✓ Epoxy Resin & Polyurethane Systems ✓ Structural Acrylic Adhesives ✓ Anaerobic Adhesives ✓ Cyanoacrylate Adhesives
Henkel has been manufacturing Loctite products since 1997. Like many companies, the point of manufacture will have likely changed over time.
Before commercial thread lockers were available, clear fingernail polish was widely used on rifle scope mount and ring screws (applied directly to screw threads). It's much like a low-torque-yield Loctite for small, threaded fasteners. Clean threads and a small amount are key.
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Just bought the Z 400 mm TC lens. I'm going to replace the Nikon foot with a RRS foot to have an Arca Swiss compatible foot.
I'm thinking of using purple Loctite on the screws. I've used blue loctite before on various screws for use with plates and feet, but never on a screw that screws in directly to a lens or camera.
I asked a professional I know and he said he did not use loctite on the screws in his replacement foot for the Z 400 mm TC. But he also said he checks the screws regularly when he is using the lens -- he said every other day.
I know myself and I am not sure that I would remember to check the screws regularly. So the safer course for me may be to use purple loctite on the screws for the replacement head.
Does anyone think this is a bad idea?
I'm thinking of using purple Loctite on the screws. I've used blue loctite before on various screws for use with plates and feet, but never on a screw that screws in directly to a lens or camera.
I asked a professional I know and he said he did not use loctite on the screws in his replacement foot for the Z 400 mm TC. But he also said he checks the screws regularly when he is using the lens -- he said every other day.
I know myself and I am not sure that I would remember to check the screws regularly. So the safer course for me may be to use purple loctite on the screws for the replacement head.
Does anyone think this is a bad idea?
Thread locker is no replacement for proper torque on the screws. It will help keep screws from vibrating out or in use cases where a lot of stress may be placed on the screws.
I would check with RRS to see what the torque spec is for the screws. Get a torque screwdriver, set it to the inch pound specs from RRS and you should be fine. Lots of things you can do to help with backing out. A small star or lock washer, a rubber washer between the parts and, of course, Locktite. But the best course would be to properly torque the screws and check for proper tightness from time to time.
Jeff
I don't use Loctite or other on any photo gear. It's needed on items that vibrate which can shake loose bolts and screws - lawnmower, lawn trimmers so on). It's not a good idea for photography gear
Thanks.
The foot is attached with screws that use a hex wrench rather than a traditional screwdriver. I assume can get a hex wrench with a torque gauge. I believe you re-use Nikon's screws with the RRS foot. I'll ask Nikon what they recommend re torque and see if they will give me an answer. I'll also ask them if they have recommendations regarding a thread locker.
I called RRS yesterday. The customer service guy said that RRS does not recommend a thread locker. But he also said he could understand why I might want to use one and said RRS does not recommend against using one. So he punted. I did not think in that call to ask about torque. So I will try RRS again.
I'm going to Botswana next month and expect that the lens and I will bounce around a bit in vehicles on rough roads.
Hmmmm...... In 25+ years, I've never had to use Locktite. Guess I missed that chapter..... I tighten down to "very snug"..... and if it starts loosing up....I tighten it back up.
Mal Paso
Active member
I bought this torque wrench and have been happy with it. Without one you are just guessing how tight.
NEIKO 10574A 1/4" Drive Torque Wrench Screwdriver Set | 30 Pieces of S2 Steel Philips, Hex, Slotted, and Torx Bits | 10 to 60 Inch-Pounds Torque Adjus
NEIKO 10574A 1/4" Drive Torque Wrench Screwdriver Set | 30 Pieces of S2 Steel Philips, Hex, Slotted, and Torx Bits | 10 to 60 Inch-Pounds Torque Adjus
I don't see any problem using Loctite. I have used the 243 Blue (Medium strength) when attaching a plate to a lens foot. In the rare case when I have to remove the plate, I have never had any problems doing so (i.e. I did not have to apply an exorbitant amount of force to do so or heat). The only suggestion I would make is to put the loctite on a disposal surface such as a piece of foil first, and then use a toothpick to apply to the screw threads to avoid over application and a the ensuing mess.
I use Vibra-TITE VC-3 Threadmate on tripod feet as suggested by Hudson Henry. This might work for you.
Yes, this is a simple common sense approach.
Yes, most of the torque screwdrivers use driver bits and are interchangeable from star to hex to slotted to Phillips and a number of others too. Mine was fairly inexpensive but it odes come in handy when tightening screws that are torque sensitive (really fine threads that are easily stripped if over torqued or things like the camera foot or rifle scope that can vibrate loose if not tightened to the proper torque.). Amazon, gunsmith supply, heck, probably a Lowes or Home Depot may have them. It is a fairly common home and shop tool.
Mine is a different brand but looks the same as the one Mal Paso posted above (just mine is a yellow handle vs. blue handle, probably made in the same factory). But that is the took I was talking about). Like Mal Paso said, without a torque wrench or torque screw driver, you're really just guessing at how tight you're putting the screws or bolts in. In many cases when you think you're tight enough, you have not even hit the right torque setting yet.
I asked Nikon support what torque to use with their screws on the Z 400 mm TC lens to attach a RRS replacement hood. RRS re-uses the same screws for its replacement foot. Nikon refused to comment, saying they would not comment on using a third party foot on the lens.
I have now asked a slightly different question. If I remove the Nikon lens foot from the lens, say for easier travel, will Nikon tell me what torque should I use on the screws to re-attach it. I also asked whether Nikon uses any thread locker that would make removing the screws harder. We'll see if they answer this.
They should answer it. I can understand the reluctance on 3rd party but for their own stuff, it is a perfectly legitimate question and one to which I believe their engineers should have numbers.