Loctite

[Calson]

The smaller the screw the less surface area there is for the loctite and so any of the types meant for temporary use can be used. There is also zero vibration with photo gear and so loctite is seldom needed. A manufacturer may use it to prevent loosening of screws while the part is in transit as it can travel thousands of miles in aircraft or by rail or in a truck before it reaches a customer.

 

[ssheipel]

The smaller the screw the less surface area there is for the loctite and so any of the types meant for temporary use can be used. There is also zero vibration with photo gear and so loctite is seldom needed. A manufacturer may use it to prevent loosening of screws while the part is in transit as it can travel thousands of miles in aircraft or by rail or in a truck before it reaches a customer.

Thanks for the explanation as to WHY a different material is needed in the first place; makes some sense even to me And I know the risk is small, but given I carry the lens/camera in the gimbal on the tripod over (or on) my shoulder I like to err on the side of over safety

 

[markymark]

Does it matter the 'screw' size when it comes to using loctite? I thought I used blue for my RRS clamps on my tripod and gimball, and on my 180-400 replacement foot, but was about to order some and I noticed it's for 1/4 inch (on the minimum end) screws...?

Way in the weeds, I know, sorry. Pretty sure it was a Steve video that I learned about using the stuff but my feeble search talents turned up nothing.

And oh, I'm going to use it on my Kirk foot for my 600 TC

Thanks.

Sorry lads, but call me old fashioned, but what’s loctite?

 

[DRwyoming]

Sorry lads, but call me old fashioned, but what’s loctite?

It's a liquid thread locking compound designed to keep machine screws and bolts from accidentally loosening up over time. It comes in various formulations and colors with Red Loctite used when you NEVER want to remove the bolt again and the Blue versions better for bolts and machine screws you may want to remove in the future.

 

[jeffnles1]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is contacting the manufacturer and asking about torque specs?

Usually if the item is tightened to torque specs, all will be good. for items where there is sufficient vibration or movement of parts to risk a screw nut or bolt backing out then a few drops of the appropriate Locktite or other thread locker will be needed. Also lock washers are frequently used to provide some load on the threads.

Bottom line, when in doubt, start by checking with the manufacturer to inquire about torque specs.

 

[markymark]

View attachment 76116

It's a liquid thread locking compound designed to keep machine screws and bolts from accidentally loosening up over time. It comes in various formulations and colors with Red Loctite used when you NEVER want to remove the bolt again and the Blue versions better for bolts and machine screws you may want to remove in the future.

Thanks for that, I’ve never heard of it

 

[agrumpybirdphotographer]

Does it matter the 'screw' size when it comes to using loctite? I thought I used blue for my RRS clamps on my tripod and gimball, and on my 180-400 replacement foot, but was about to order some and I noticed it's for 1/4 inch (on the minimum end) screws...?

Way in the weeds, I know, sorry. Pretty sure it was a Steve video that I learned about using the stuff but my feeble search talents turned up nothing.

And oh, I'm going to use it on my Kirk foot for my 600 TC

Thanks.

Hi Steven,

I still work in the aerospace industry and we use Loctite thread locking adhesive all the time on aircraft components if this is any help I use Loctite 222 / 242 on lens foot screws etc. 243 gives a stronger bond it’s important not to use too much though.

Hope this is of use.

 

[sportmaster]

Before Loctite we used clear fingernail polish. Still works

 

[Steve W]

It won't ruin it but it may weaken it. The chart I posted above shows Oil tolerant for 243 and 263.

Loctite has a reason tolerance to contamination however the cleaner the better. There are specific cleaners and primers for Loctite products but a bit of isoprop alcohol or similar will do fine. Just make sure it is DRY before you assemble.

 

[Steve W]

Before Loctite we used clear fingernail polish. Still works

Yes, that was very common on small screws

 

[DaveyDitzer]

Blue or Green (wicking) Loctite for camera stuff. Red requires heat to remove. A soldering iron on the screw head will help loosen any loctite bonded screw.

Agree blue or green, but differ on the red. Used iy once (ignorance on my part) and it was impossible to remove the part, even by a master mechanic.

 

[sportmaster]

Agree blue or green, but differ on the red. Used iy once (ignorance on my part) and it was impossible to remove the part, even by a master mechanic.

Years ago I bought a metal lathe that had been "oiled" with red Loctite. I got it for $500, a bargain because it was completely seized. Spent a month cleaning headstock bearings, etc., but eventually it worked fine. Lessons learned - pay attention when using Loctite. There are many strengths depending on application.

 

[Jack McEwan]

I agree! Screws coated with Loctite can be very difficult to remove. While it serves its intended purpose, it could present future problems.

 

[Calson]

Torque specs are not really needed so long as one uses a small wrench for small fasteners. Very difficult to over tighten a 2mm hex head screw with a hex wrench. It is when someone using a large socket wrench with a long ratchet handle or a long box or open end wrench that enough force can be applied to severe a fastener. A big difference in the amount of torque one can apply with a 4 inch long wrench as compared to a 8 inch long wrench and much easier to over torque a fastener with the longer wrench.

Where vibration can loosen fasteners is with travel in aircraft and on such trips I take whatever tools I need to check that the fasteners are tight my first night after landing. In many situations a split lock washer works better than Loctite and I can determine when the screw is tight by observing the flattening of the lock washer. As soon as the washer is completely flat the amount of torque is OK and nothing gained by trying to tighten the fastener more.

Another washer is one that I like to use between the ball head and the tripod base and it is referred to as a wave washer. There are also Belleville spring washers that are designed more for one time use. These can be purchased based on the torque load they will exert. The wave washers work well when there are large surfaces involved as with the base of a ball head and the top plate of a tripod.

 

[bleirer]

I agree! Screws coated with Loctite can be very difficult to remove. While it serves its intended purpose, it could present future problems.

Though there are many versions of threadlocker each for a different thread diameter and for a different ability to reset or loosen.

 

[Jack McEwan]

Though there are many versions of threadlocker each for a different thread diameter and for a different ability to reset or loosen.

That's certainly true, but get the wrong version and you might encounter problems. Or keep a screwdriver handy and circumvent the problem altogether.

 

[Mal Paso]

I disagree about torque specs and have an inch pound torque wrench for small screws and nuts. You can't do exact by feel and the engineers have spent the time to figure how much force is required. A scope was slipping on my 35 cal. Nervous about too much force I hadn't tightened it enough. Once I got a torque wrench I knew how much force I was using and what was safe. Screwdriver torque wrenches are $40-80 for a decent one.

 

[canyonlight]

This is really a great thread. Thanks to all the contributors. Using Loctite is much better than having a camera or lens coming loose and possibly falling while in use. Now...if Loctite would just invent a tube that doesn't leak in the tool drawer.

 

[bleirer]

That's certainly true, but get the wrong version and you might encounter problems. Or keep a screwdriver handy and circumvent the problem altogether.

That link I posted earlier laid out the use case for each type. A little clicking and proceed with confidence.

 

[Abinoone]

Does it matter the 'screw' size when it comes to using loctite? I thought I used blue for my RRS clamps on my tripod and gimball, and on my 180-400 replacement foot, but was about to order some and I noticed it's for 1/4 inch (on the minimum end) screws...?

Way in the weeds, I know, sorry. Pretty sure it was a Steve video that I learned about using the stuff but my feeble search talents turned up nothing.

And oh, I'm going to use it on my Kirk foot for my 600 TC

Thanks.

I’ve seen it used on watch stems & crowns, which are exceedingly small, so I think you’ll be OK for photographic use.

 

[Jack McEwan]

That link I posted earlier laid out the use case for each type. A little clicking and proceed with confidence.

Thanks, Bill - that’s an interesting table. My comments reflected experience I had many years ago with a Mil-spec version of Loctite. Once applied to machine screws it was extremely difficult to remove them.

 

[simplynature]

The weaker Locktite works great even on small screws, but if you're worried about being unable to remove it later you can find many other things that will work. Anything that is liquid but will harden if left out can work in a pinch. I've used my wife's fingernail polish before on my boat when I discovered I was out of Locktite, and those two screws are still there years later (and my boat vibrates LOTS more than my camera ever will). Most any other kind of glue would also work in a pinch, rubber cement, super glue (Locktite is a type of super glue), even wood glue.

 

[dabhand16]

I used blue loctite to attach a RRS dovetail plate to a ballhead and now I can't get it off. In the future I'll just rely on checking the screws regularly.

I'm sure that many, many years ago when Loctite first emerged that it was not recommended for use with aluminum.

Since then there have been many different types of Loctite and other brands aimed at different uses/materials and maybe the formulation has also changed in the original blue Loctite.

Maybe they are all the same and it is just marketing at work?

 

[Geoff_G]

I used blue loctite to attach a RRS dovetail plate to a ballhead and now I can't get it off. In the future I'll just rely on checking the screws regularly.

Aim your hair dryer at the screw holding down the plate and the loctite will loosen up. I just did that with mine (it would not budge until I put a heat gun on it).

 

[bleirer]

I've heard of folks using a soldering iron to heat a head carefully, but not tried it especially wary if near plastics.