Long Macro Lens

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I own and use the Nikon 200mm f4 AF-D macro lens that I love. If I had to replace it I would consider getting an Irix 150mm f2.8 macro lens. It is manual focus only and comes with a tripod color mount. The version made for Nikon comes with a F mount. I believe IRIX makes some mirrorless lenses for Sony, so if you are a Sony user, check to see if Irix makes a 150mm for Sony mirrorless.



I believe that the low sales volume for a 200mm macro is why they are not a high priority for most mirrorless sellers today.
 
The Sony 135mm F1.8 GM and 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GM have a close minimum focussing distance. You might try them with extension tubes.
I have the 100–400 and absolutely love that lens for shooting insects. I wish there was one in the 200 mm range that you can do true one to one but probably not likely that anyone is going to create one.
 
I have the 100–400 and absolutely love that lens for shooting insects. I wish there was one in the 200 mm range that you can do true one to one but probably not likely that anyone is going to create one.
The Nikon Z 100-400 mm lens also has a nice minimum focus distance. Very good for dragonflies, butterflies and other small but not tiny creatures. I also use it with the Z 1.4x TC, which does not change the minimum focus distance, but adds magnification.
 
I was packing my bag last night and threw in my Sony 90MM macro and remembered I had this close up lens kit from NiSi that I have only played with. I bought it during Christmas sales last year and got it for 80% off on a one day deal. It is sized to fit my Sony 70-200F28 GM MKII and when at 200MM it is crazy how close you can get. Works best at your max focal length but it will allow basically a 1:1 at 200MM.

https://nisiopticsusa.com/product/nisi-close-up-lens-kit-nc-77mm-with-67-and-72mm-adaptors/
 
The Nikon Z 100-400 mm lens also has a nice minimum focus distance. Very good for dragonflies, butterflies and other small but not tiny creatures. I also use it with the Z 1.4x TC, which does not change the minimum focus distance, but adds magnification.
I need to use my TC more often with the 100-400 and 70-200 because it hardly degrades image quality if an at all.
 
I remember bringing my 200mm f/4 macro to Nikon service to repair the M/A focus ring switch which jammed, the Nikon tech told me, he hadn't t seen any of
them for years, this was about 6 years ago before I sold it several years later. He also told me he doubted whether Nikon would upgrade that lens due to very limited sales. It was
a great, sharp lens.
 
I remember bringing my 200mm f/4 macro to Nikon service to repair the M/A focus ring switch which jammed, the Nikon tech told me, he hadn't t seen any of
them for years, this was about 6 years ago before I sold it several years later. He also told me he doubted whether Nikon would upgrade that lens due to very limited sales. It was
a great, sharp lens.
It is a great lens design, but marred by the badly designed switch that you have described needing to be repaired. The trouble now from what I have heard is that Nikon is no longer repairing them, and that parts are not easily available.

--Ken
 
I've had very good results using the 70-200 f/2.8 S for macro stacking with the Z-9, the best results were from using Helicon Remote tethered to the camera.
Image shifting results were sometimes mixed regarding sharpness. I've been using the Z-8 with stacking and Helicon Remote in studio work, much lighter rig.
and nice results, just started doing it recently
 
Had a number of long macro lenses over the year, most recently being a tamron 180 SP DI 3.5 which was fine but found it rather large and heavy and ended up selling it and after going to M4/3 cameras decided to stick with there 60 macro.

Theres other options of course if your willing to adapt something from the past, i do remeber nikon bringing out a Nikon 70-180 macro zoom which many have raved about for many years and still highly regard its performance, but i think it needs a diopter to get to 1.1

I think the irix 150mm is apparently is very good as well.
 
The Sony 135mm F1.8 GM and 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 GM have a close minimum focussing distance. You might try them with extension tubes.
True - though the Nikon 100-400 S covers a 4 inch subject - and about 2.5 inches with the 1.4 S converter.

I find my 105 S usefully optically better than my 200 f4, and I am beginning to realise my 100-400 is only slightly behind the 200 f4 though the zoom does not go to 1:1.

As extension tubes provide much less magnification with telephoto lenses than "standard" or wide-angle lenses I find extension tubes do not help much with long focal lengths.

There is no specification yet for the Nikon 135mm S.
I speculate it will have a lesser reproduction ration than the 100-400.
 
I enjoy using my Nikkor 300mm PF with FTZ for larger subjects such as dragonflies and butterflies. It focuses to 1.4m and can be used with extension tubes to get closer. F mount TCs also work well with it.

20230607_09_35_41-Z8-000.jpg
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Why have all camera manufactures pretty much abandoned any type of long macro lens offering? This is something that puzzles me and perhaps there's not a big enough market.

What the long macro's offer is something that appeals usually to beginners in this field (longer working distance to not scare the critters and tighter field of view).

The price and weight of the longer macro lens offerings are anything but beginner friendly.

Meanwhile, expert macro shooters are looking to more than 1:1 magnification and stacking which, ironically, the longer macros are actually less suited for than the shorter ones.

So basically those lenses are dead in the water, with just a few strange people (myself included) who flock to things like the Sigma 150/180mm for their extreme image quality, low price used, ability to take TCs with no problem and their particular rendering of backgrounds :).

Btw... I find it a big missed opportunity for some manufacturers that their 90-100mm macro's no longer can take TCs, as this would be an easy way to get better working distance and more than 1:1 magnification, covering the lack of the long macro lenses.
 
What the long macro's offer is something that appeals usually to beginners in this field (longer working distance to not scare the critters and tighter field of view).

The price and weight of the longer macro lens offerings are anything but beginner friendly.

Meanwhile, expert macro shooters are looking to more than 1:1 magnification and stacking which, ironically, the longer macros are actually less suited for than the shorter ones.

So basically those lenses are dead in the water, with just a few strange people (myself included) who flock to things like the Sigma 150/180mm for their extreme image quality, low price used, ability to take TCs with no problem and their particular rendering of backgrounds :).

Btw... I find it a big missed opportunity for some manufacturers that their 90-100mm macro's no longer can take TCs, as this would be an easy way to get better working distance and more than 1:1 magnification, covering the lack of the long macro lenses.
While I agree with most of what you say I’m not sure about the beginner part. I’ve been shooting macro well over 20 years and just about every day of some sort and having extra reach at 1:1 is very nice as with the 200f4. I do a lot of handheld macro and really don’t like taking a slider or similar device out in the field but they are nice at home. It’s very nice we have the technology of in camera stacking but with live subjects this can sometimes be a challenge. For example I tried numerous times last week focus stacking caterpillars and it took several attempts to get it right due to tiny movements of the caterpillar. Macro photography for me is definitely my favorite genre and one of the reasons for that is there’s always subjects if you look. I have contemplated getting a 2:1 or 5:1 but with those being manual focus, you’re pretty much constrained full time to a tripod. I’ve had a laowa 90mm 2X in may cart for two months lol. You are definitely correct with manufactures no enabling the use of tc’s with the macro lenses. I just don’t understand why someone doesn’t offer that but to my knowledge no company does.
 
@sh109:
Right now, the ultimate macro lens I think it's the OM System's 90mm macro. It's a 2:1 native lens with AF and somewhat decent working distance and it takes TCs so you can bring it to 4:1 and still maintain all the automatic goodies.

And Olympus/OMDS stacking is some of the best in the business.
 
@sh109:
Right now, the ultimate macro lens I think it's the OM System's 90mm macro. It's a 2:1 native lens with AF and somewhat decent working distance and it takes TCs so you can bring it to 4:1 and still maintain all the automatic goodies.

And Olympus/OMDS stacking is some of the best in the business.
I’ve been eyeing that setup. It looks super small and well built. I’ve honestly never seen one in person but with the condition of my arms it might be the way I have to go in the future to shed weight. Their lens selection is very nice and the long zoom with the built in tc is very nice as well
 
I've used the 100-400 for some closeup shots and even the 24-70 with some cropping. But you can't beat a long telephoto for insects.
I agree, but after owning a lens like the 200 F4, it is a very sweet lens with a 1.1 reproduction. Anyhow I frequently use my 100-400 and 200-600 for insects.
 
after owning a lens like the 200 F4, it is a very sweet lens with a 1.1 reproduction.
One positive of the 200 f4 is the narrower angle of view makes it easier to avoid distractions in the background - and it can create greater background blur.

Back to the Olympus - it is not apples to apples compared to 24x36 format at "1:1" magnification.

The Olympus smaller format means it has an approximate six eights of an inch wide subject at 1:1, and a three eighths of an image subject at 2:1.
Combined with Olympus in camera focus stacking - I understand jpg only - it has a lot going for it.
 
@sh109:
Right now, the ultimate macro lens I think it's the OM System's 90mm macro. It's a 2:1 native lens with AF and somewhat decent working distance and it takes TCs so you can bring it to 4:1 and still maintain all the automatic goodies.

And Olympus/OMDS stacking is some of the best in the business.

I’ve been eyeing that setup. It looks super small and well built. I’ve honestly never seen one in person but with the condition of my arms it might be the way I have to go in the future to shed weight. Their lens selection is very nice and the long zoom with the built in tc is very nice as well

I mainly photograph native orchids and fungi. I used Nikon DSLR's with the 105mm lens for years. I also used them with a CamRanger to make focus-stacking easier. When I started transitioning to mirrorless, I found it more difficult to use, particularly AF. After playing with both Nikon and Fuji bodies, I decided to try Olympus. It made life so much easier for me. After a few years of using Olympus bodies for macro/close-up I decided to try the Nikon Z fc with 105mm lens. An example of the combo is in this post.

On an outing using the Olympus I could easily take 2,500+ images times 2~3 outings per week, that is a lot of images to work through when I got home. When the Nikon Z fc came along I sold all my Olympus gear and decided to try handheld single images. This lasted a number of months and I found I wasn't getting results I was happy with. I decided to buy an OM Systems OM-1 with the 60mm macro lens. I will eventually try the 90mm, but at this stage the 60mm does all I need it to do. The issue with photographing fungi, and native orchids is you don't always have a lot of space to work in.

A few of the frustrations I have using Nikon mirrorless bodies for focus bracketing. (1) Activating the process requires using the menu. (2) When the process is underway the LCD screen is blank. (3) Using AF on tiny subjects doesn't always work.

A few of my likes using Olympus/OM Systems. (1) Focus bracketing/stacking can be activated by a remote. (2) You can watch the process as it happens on the LCD screen. This is important for me as many of the subjects are so small I need to see the magnified image to detect any movement during the process. (3) In-body focus-stacking. When using this option the first image is taken at the focus point, then the focus moves closer to the lens, and then progresses past the original focus point. I find when photographing small subjects at a slight angle it's not always easy to determine the closest point. (4) AF is excellent on small subjects

Here are a couple of images using the OM-1 with 60mm lens

#1 Phone capture showing the orchid with a coin for size reference
52774313955_4a3749e749_b.jpg


#2 This is the orchid. Parson's Bands (Eriochilus cucullatus)
52773894416_5203fae118_b.jpg


#3 Phone capture
52774314070_f6ec097164_b.jpg


#4 Autumn Bird Orchid (Chiloglottis curviclavia)
52773363582_08a7acdcf8_b.jpg
 
I mainly photograph native orchids and fungi. I used Nikon DSLR's with the 105mm lens for years. I also used them with a CamRanger to make focus-stacking easier. When I started transitioning to mirrorless, I found it more difficult to use, particularly AF. After playing with both Nikon and Fuji bodies, I decided to try Olympus. It made life so much easier for me. After a few years of using Olympus bodies for macro/close-up I decided to try the Nikon Z fc with 105mm lens. An example of the combo is in this post.

On an outing using the Olympus I could easily take 2,500+ images times 2~3 outings per week, that is a lot of images to work through when I got home. When the Nikon Z fc came along I sold all my Olympus gear and decided to try handheld single images. This lasted a number of months and I found I wasn't getting results I was happy with. I decided to buy an OM Systems OM-1 with the 60mm macro lens. I will eventually try the 90mm, but at this stage the 60mm does all I need it to do. The issue with photographing fungi, and native orchids is you don't always have a lot of space to work in.

A few of the frustrations I have using Nikon mirrorless bodies for focus bracketing. (1) Activating the process requires using the menu. (2) When the process is underway the LCD screen is blank. (3) Using AF on tiny subjects doesn't always work.

A few of my likes using Olympus/OM Systems. (1) Focus bracketing/stacking can be activated by a remote. (2) You can watch the process as it happens on the LCD screen. This is important for me as many of the subjects are so small I need to see the magnified image to detect any movement during the process. (3) In-body focus-stacking. When using this option the first image is taken at the focus point, then the focus moves closer to the lens, and then progresses past the original focus point. I find when photographing small subjects at a slight angle it's not always easy to determine the closest point. (4) AF is excellent on small subjects

Here are a couple of images using the OM-1 with 60mm lens

#1 Phone capture showing the orchid with a coin for size reference
52774313955_4a3749e749_b.jpg


#2 This is the orchid. Parson's Bands (Eriochilus cucullatus)
52773894416_5203fae118_b.jpg


#3 Phone capture
52774314070_f6ec097164_b.jpg


#4 Autumn Bird Orchid (Chiloglottis curviclavia)
52773363582_08a7acdcf8_b.jpg
Very nice and thank you for the info.
 
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