Master Nikon AF Handoffs on Z8, Z9, and Z6iii

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In this video, we’re diving deep into AF Handoffs with the Nikon Z8, Z9, and Z6iii—and this concept will likely apply to future Nikon mirrorless models too. There's a ton of confusion out there between normal AF overrides and AF overrides that include a handoff and this video will clear the waters. (Warning: Many people think they know this technique and have it 100% WRONG - watch to make sure you have it RIGHT!)

If you shoot the Z8, Z9, or Z6iii, this video is absolutely critical to your AF success! (And it might explain some AF failures too!)

Excellent video, Steve! I’m currently using 3D on my AF On button for AF handoffs. I recall reading in the guidebook about the pros and cons of using 3D or Auto AF for handoffs. I’m curious to hear which mode others are using for this purpose.
 
I don't know if this sounds familiar to any of you , but I sometimes have issues to keep enough contact with my index finger on the Fn1 button while also pressing the AF-ON button (as both needs to be pressed constantly) . Problem is that other buttons (like record) are programmed for other important stuff
I have the same problem with holding down the Fn1 button. My solution is to use one of the lens function buttons for AF Handoff to Auto Area AF.
 
I think I know how to use it, but I still find the description confusing, (possibly because I'm just getting old and getting confused more easily, and partly because I'm a dual system user and find Sony's system of engaging tracking much simpler to understand and engage). I find the term "AF override" particularly confusing, since Steve uses the term in describing both the AF handoff and AF override. To me, programming another button to a different AF Area mode is not an override, but simply an easier way to change AF mode vs diving through the menu system. So an AF handoff may be an override, but the other method is just changing AF Area modes. To me an AF handoff is Nikon's way of implementing Sony's full frame subject tracking, so discussing an AF handoff from AUTO AF or 3D to Single Point just adds confusion, since it has nothing to do with full frame subject tracking.
It seems that most people find the video very helpful, so it is probably just me.
 
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While I agree about the challenges of long necked birds, as I indicated, the issue doesn’t appear to be with SD/tracking as indicated by the white box. It is only when AF is initiated with the BBF and green box that the issues start. One can watch the little white box follow the bird’s eye around in the frame and then initiating BBF usually turns the white box green on the eye. Then the green box starts to oscillate between the eye and body. it were only limited to long necked birds, I would concede, but the same thing happens when I shoot goldfinches or other subjects. It’s so bad with goldfinches that spot or C1. (1x1) are the only effective way I’ve been able to capture them. Handing off to 3D or another AF mode if the 1x1 C1 is used is not effective as the af ends up on the body.
Ahh, I get what you're saying. You know, when I'm shooting 99% (or more) of the time I have AF engaged so I don't see much of the little white box. Most of the time, if I'm looking in the viewfinder, I have AF actively engaged - probably a BBAF thing (or just a habit). I really don't have a good explanation for why it would work like that. I'm not out shooting much right now, but I'll take a look when I can.
 
I have not yet set up a button for hand off yet for the same reasons mentioned above (I use BB focusing too). I had not thought about a button on the lens. I have been thinking that if I wanted to use a button for handoff, I would drop BBF and use the shutter button for AF nd use the AF/ON button for handoff.

Any thoughts about tradeoffs among BBF, Shutter button AF, handoff buttons, etc?
 
You can program a button with the focus mode + AF ON which allows you to push the programmed button to use other AF mode while also turning AF On. No need to push two buttons.
Just make sure AF stays activated during the handover. IOW, don't release one button before hitting that second button even for a fraction of a second.

IOW, to be a seamless handover which carries the AF system state information to the new AF Area Mode there can't be a gap in AF activation so you don't want to release the first button even a split second before activating the second button even if that second button has AF-ON programmed in addition to the new AF Area mode. If you do let AF deactivate even for a moment it's not really a seamless handover but really just selecting a different AF Area mode and letting the AF system start acquisition all over again.
 
Watched the video... Very curious about the way Nikon AF system works. Coming from Sony A1, I use BBF *with* tracking on AF-ON and BBF w/o tracking on AEL buttons. Separate custom button cycles through available AF areas. It's that simple. I usually leave AF area on Zone and switch as needed. The concept of handoff as well as Wide vs 3D is not so obvious to me. Is Nikon's Z9/Z8 AF offers more useful choices over A1 or is it a complication because Nikon's AF does not work quite as well as Sony, for birds specifically? I'm periodically tempted to try Nikon due to lens selection, but these AF complexities and only two wheels make me nervous.
Honestly, I think Sony's AF system is easy to use and better implemented. And, in practice, I think it's every bit as effective - in some cases, more effusive - than the more complex Nikon system. It frankly takes more work with Nikon's AF system to get the same results as Sony.
 
I think I know how to use it, but I still find the description confusing, (possibly because I'm just getting old and getting confused more easily, and partly because I'm a dual system user and find Sony's system of engaging tracking much simpler to understand and engage). I find the term "AF override" particularly confusing, since Steve uses the term in describing both the AF handoff and AF override. To me, programming another button to a different AF Area mode is not an override, but simply an easier way to change AF mode vs diving through the menu system. To me an AF handoff is Nikon's way of implementing Sony's full frame subject tracking, so discussing an AF handoff from AUTO AF or 3D to Single Point just adds confusion, since it has nothing to fo with full frame subject tracking.
It seems that most people find the video very helpful, so it is probably just me.
It can get confusing.

I use the term AF Override because that's what it's really doing. You have your normal AF area set, and when you press a programmed button, it overrides to a different AF area - but only as long as you press. When you release the button, the camera reverts back to the normal AF area it was using prior to the press. If you could tap a button and have the camera switch to the program AF area, then it's would be switching, but as it stands, when you release the button it goes back to the current normal AF area - I don't know how to describe that beyond on override :)

The real trick comes in because a handoff is a subset of AF override. In both an override and handoff, you are temporarily changing AF areas; but with an handoff you are picking up at the exact AF area the camera was just using. That's not the case with overrides. As I mentioned in the video, all AF handoffs include an AF override, but not all AF overrides include a handoff :)
 
It can get confusing.

I use the term AF Override because that's what it's really doing. You have your normal AF area set, and when you press a programmed button, it overrides to a different AF area - but only as long as you press. When you release the button, the camera reverts back to the normal AF area it was using prior to the press. If you could tap a button and have the camera switch to the program AF area, then it's would be switching, but as it stands, when you release the button it goes back to the current normal AF area - I don't know how to describe that beyond on override :)

The real trick comes in because a handoff is a subset of AF override. In both an override and handoff, you are temporarily changing AF areas; but with an handoff you are picking up at the exact AF area the camera was just using. That's not the case with overrides. As I mentioned in the video, all AF handoffs include an AF override, but not all AF overrides include a handoff :)
Thanks for the clarification. I always program the other button for both AF area mode and AF-On, so that's why I wasn't thinking of it as an override. I don't want to keep pressing two buttons at once. But what you're saying makes sense now! It was an old age issue on my part! Thanks.
 
Just make sure AF stays activated during the handover. IOW, don't release one button before hitting that second button even for a fraction of a second.

IOW, to be a seamless handover which carries the AF system state information to the new AF Area Mode there can't be a gap in AF activation so you don't want to release the first button even a split second before activating the second button even if that second button has AF-ON programmed in addition to the new AF Area mode. If you do let AF deactivate even for a moment it's not really a seamless handover but really just selecting a different AF Area mode and letting the AF system start acquisition all over again.
My understanding is that even after the handoff, you have to keep both buttons pressed. If you don’t the handoff will not continue.
 
My understanding is that even after the handoff, you have to keep both buttons pressed. If you don’t the handoff will not continue.
It depends on if the override includes AF or not. For me, I keep them both pressed because my override is just the AF area and not the area + AF. I like to control AF, even on overrides :)
 
Just make sure AF stays activated during the handover. IOW, don't release one button before hitting that second button even for a fraction of a second.

IOW, to be a seamless handover which carries the AF system state information to the new AF Area Mode there can't be a gap in AF activation so you don't want to release the first button even a split second before activating the second button even if that second button has AF-ON programmed in addition to the new AF Area mode. If you do let AF deactivate even for a moment it's not really a seamless handover but really just selecting a different AF Area mode and letting the AF system start acquisition all over again.
Thanks for the clarification. I always program the other button for both AF area mode and AF-On, so that's why I wasn't thinking of it as an override. I don't want to keep pressing two buttons at once. But what you're saying makes sense now! It was an old age issue on my part! Thanks.
OK so if I understand it there are 2 possible ways for the hand-off
1) only program the AF area mode to a button eg Fn1, but without AF-ON . In that case you need to keep the 2 buttons (Af-On and Fn1) pressed
2) program the AF area mode AND the AF-ON to eg Fn1. In this case you can let go of the Af-On button and only have to press the Fn1 button

In both cases you must of course press the Fn1 while still pressing the Af-On to make sure you get that hand-off properly
 
OK so if I understand it there are 2 possible ways for the hand-off
1) only program the AF area mode to a button eg Fn1, but without AF-ON . In that case you need to keep the 2 buttons (Af-On and Fn1) pressed
2) program the AF area mode AND the AF-ON to eg Fn1. In this case you can let go of the Af-On button and only have to press the Fn1 button

In both cases you must of course press the Fn1 while still pressing the Af-On to make sure you get that hand-off properly
Yup :)

(I know that wasn't in direct response to me, but I knew the answer :) )
 
My understanding is that even after the handoff, you have to keep both buttons pressed. If you don’t the handoff will not continue.
Once the handoff is complete you only need to press the new button assuming it has AF-ON associated with it. But during handover you’ll want to momentarily have both buttons activated to make the handover seamless and uninterrupted.

That assumes you’re using BBAF, if using shutter release to activate AF, you’ll want to keep that half pressed during handoff.

Basically, a seamless handoff requires the AF system to remain activated as you switch from one AF Area mode to another.
 
It depends on if the override includes AF or not. For me, I keep them both pressed because my override is just the AF area and not the area + AF. I like to control AF, even on overrides :)
How does pressing both buttons allow you to "control AF?" If you have Fn1 set to AF-ON and just keep pressing it after the hand-off are you losing some control that you have when Fn1 is not set to AF-ON and both buttons are pressed? At the beginning I thought I understood, but now my head is spinning. :)
 
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How does pressing both buttons allow you to "control AF?" If you have Fn1 set to AF-ON and just keep pressing it after the hand-off are you losing some control that you have when Fn1 is not set to AF-ON and both buttons are pressed? At the beginning I thought I understood, but now my head is spinning. :)
Meaning that if I have an override button pressed, I can still stop AF operation if I want. If the override has the AF area and AF-On enabled, then it's always focusing when pressed. Granted, most of the time that's absolutely fine, but there are times I want the camera to stop focusing but I want to keep the override pressed. For example, if I'm using Subject Detection with Auto AF on an override, maybe just before the bird flies behind an obstacle I release the AF-On button so the camera doesn't focus on that obstacle and then I reengage AF on the other side (Subject Detection doesn't respond to Focus Tracking With Lock On delays).
 
Honestly, this all seems terribly complicated for an EX-Nikon shooter who toggled between SP and GRP on the D-500.

Now with the OM-1 mk 2, I simply leave the focus area at ALL and the subject ID will pick up the bird if it recognizes it. If I need a smaller focus area, I switch to small but once the Subject ID finds the bird it will track it whatever as long as AF is engaged.

So my question is, "Are all these different focus types on the Z-8 worth the trouble?"

Regards,
Tom
 
Honestly, this all seems terribly complicated for an EX-Nikon shooter who toggled between SP and GRP on the D-500.

Now with the OM-1 mk 2, I simply leave the focus area at ALL and the subject ID will pick up the bird if it recognizes it. If I need a smaller focus area, I switch to small but once the Subject ID finds the bird it will track it whatever as long as AF is engaged.

So my question is, "Are all these different focus types on the Z-8 worth the trouble?"

Regards,
Tom
That's a great question. I was out this afternoon shooting Sandies and the answer is that with the Z8, a single AF mode is insufficient. Auto Area went right to the chest and Wide S was much better, usually, but not always staying on the eye. Occasionally, I had to go to a C1 1x1 and then hand off to 3D, even then it would sometimes loose AF, preferring the head or jumping back to the body. So, is it worth the trouble? Compared to what, my old Canon R5/R3? Although I like some aspects of my Z8, namely the buffer, battery life (better than R5), blackout free EVF (similar on R5II), IQ, etc. the only reason I stick with it is because of the PF glass and other lenses.
 
That's a great question. I was out this afternoon shooting Sandies and the answer is that with the Z8, a single AF mode is insufficient. Auto Area went right to the chest and Wide S was much better, usually, but not always staying on the eye. Occasionally, I had to go to a C1 1x1 and then hand off to 3D, even then it would sometimes loose AF, preferring the head or jumping back to the body. So, is it worth the trouble? Compared to what, my old Canon R5/R3? Although I like some aspects of my Z8, namely the buffer, battery life (better than R5), blackout free EVF (similar on R5II), IQ, etc. the only reason I stick with it is because of the PF glass and other lenses.
alrmj,
Could the camera see the eye? Yes, I agree on Nikon pf glass. I would love a 3# 600pf for the OM-1.
Regards,
Tom
 
With the greatest of respect, to avoid confusion etc. can I suggest commencing the video at 4.39. This is the critical context within which the rest can be viewed without becoming alarmed.
 
alrmj,
Could the camera see the eye? Yes, I agree on Nikon pf glass. I would love a 3# 600pf for the OM-1.
Regards,
Tom
Yes, they were in the wetlands drinking, stretching, pecking, etc. behind my house, maybe 40-50 yards away at most. Was shooting the Z8/800 PF in solid, afternoon light on perfect sun angle. The irony, is that it had no trouBlue in the same light captuRing a female downy from 20 yards with a black on black eye in AA mode.
 
Honestly, this all seems terribly complicated for an EX-Nikon shooter who toggled between SP and GRP on the D-500.

Now with the OM-1 mk 2, I simply leave the focus area at ALL and the subject ID will pick up the bird if it recognizes it. If I need a smaller focus area, I switch to small but once the Subject ID finds the bird it will track it whatever as long as AF is engaged.

So my question is, "Are all these different focus types on the Z-8 worth the trouble?"

Regards,
Tom

I also use OM-1 mk2, to complement a1, but I don't find OM-1's Bird ID and AF particularly reliable. Yes, it does pick up a bird pretty well initially, but the AF plane jitters (or wobbles if you prefer) even if the bird is stationary. It's never quite as "locked on" and stable as on a1. I do hope they improve the algorithms as in general I like the OM system a lot; I just don't think they are quite there with Bird AF, even though it was improved on mk2. Btw, similar wobbles/jitters happen on video with OM-1.
 
I really don't like using front buttons on any camera. Just one of many reasons why I leave shutter AF active (especially on Nikon) as I can then have shutter do Wide AF and AF-ON do AutoAF. Way more ergonomic than a front button push.
 
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