Nikon 600mm PF 6.3 lens, foot mount (mount base) coming loose

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interesting they use blue and not purple the weaker version for small screws

that is excellent news because if the lens had to be repaired under warranty and they had trouble getting them out they can blame the blue loctite
 
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I already own a proper torque bit driver , so I will be setting the torque to 1.59 inch lbs (converted from 18 Nm) and properly set the 4 screws with loctite Blue. If your looking for a small yet handy driver, the wheeler brand is very good quality and reliable. See here: Wheeler Manual Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance https://a.co/d/2CSrKCP

the screwdriver is so small that i tightened them all i could with blue loctite and done .

but like i said dont use a philips .
it feels like it fits but the taper is very different and it wont sit deep enough to really tighten and not damage the slots.

i think the screwdriver itself wont let you over tighten it because the handle is very small
 
Thanks for heads up. I got this lens recently, but I rarely use the foot. Most of the time I shoot it handheld and I remove the foot completely to save weight, which means I don't even carry it by the foot, so hopefully mine won't develop this issue. I have a great local camera repair shop who could tighten it for me for free, but if I am on a trip and this happens...
I got the lens recently and am thinking of doing the same, removing the foot completely and carrying the setup with strap connected to the body . The mount should be able to handle 3lbs hanging off of it , right?
 
I got the lens recently and am thinking of doing the same, removing the foot completely and carrying the setup with strap connected to the body . The mount should be able to handle 3lbs hanging off of it , right?
How do you connect the strap to the lens body if you remove the foot and the collar (foot mount)? Or do you mean connect to the camera body? I would say no, no for that way. As you carry the combo by the strap, it will swing and I doubt the camera mount can tolerate or endure.
 
I do have my strap connected to the camera body, though when I am walking I generally hold the camera and lens in my hand. I hang the strap off one shoulder (not around my neck) when I am standing, though sometimes I leave it there while walking but hold the lens with one hand as well for extra support.
 
I think the 2mm Phillips screwdriver is close in size to a JIS #0.
the pitch is different in the JIS screws which are the japanese industry standard heads .

the screw head is a cross slot and not tapered like a philips head .

a philips appears to fit but does not seat all the way down .

so when you torque it you are not deep enough and risk damaging the cross slits




 
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the pitch is different in the JIS screws which are the japanese industry standard heads .

the screw head is a cross slot and not tapered like a philips head .

a philips appears to fit but does not seat all the way down .

so when you torque it you are not deep enough and risk damaging the cross slits




Good stuff. Why then do you think Nikon recommends a Philips screw driver (2mm). Are these even JIS screws as many of these lenses/bodies are manufactured in Thailand or China? Even if Nikon uses JIS screws wh one would think that they would suggest using the proper driver.
 
Good stuff. Why then do you think Nikon recommends a Philips screw driver (2mm). Are these even JIS screws as many of these lenses/bodies are manufactured in Thailand or China? Even if Nikon uses JIS screws wh one would think that they would suggest using the proper driver.

yes these are japanese cross slot heads . if you shine a light in side you can see they are a straight taper , philips has the point tapering to an angle inside.

thats why a philips looks like it fits but it’s not grabbing down in side the head so it puts a lot of force on the top of the screw ..

it isn’t the first time instructions are wrong .

my buddy does jet engine repairs and many times the wrong tools are listed , but in that case they need to get them revised before. proceeding and can’t just use the correct tool, we can
 
I had the same happen on my 70-200. I used Loctite 271. It's stronger than the blue, but still breaks loose easy enough. Regarding the screw heads, I have a WIHA PH0 phillips driver the screws perfectly. I also have a JIS #0 driver. The "draft" angle on the blades is slightly different, but both fit the screws fine for me - I can't feel any difference. I think it comes down to the intersection of the blades and it seems not all Phillips drivers are created equal.

The screws strap lugs on my 400 f/2.8 TC lens were had red thread locker from Nikon. I don't know why they wouldn't do the same for the foot mounts.
 
I had the same happen on my 70-200. I used Loctite 271. It's stronger than the blue, but still breaks loose easy enough. Regarding the screw heads, I have a WIHA PH0 phillips driver the screws perfectly. I also have a JIS #0 driver. The "draft" angle on the blades is slightly different, but both fit the screws fine for me - I can't feel any difference. I think it comes down to the intersection of the blades and it seems not all Phillips drivers are created equal.

The screws strap lugs on my 400 f/2.8 TC lens were had red thread locker from Nikon. I don't know why they wouldn't do the same for the foot mounts.
I have not even been able to find Loctite 241(blue) closest I can find is 242 (blue) ... 271(red) says it is high strength .. color me confused not a diy type. I have a phillips marked ph000 that seems to fit but is probably not quite right but nothing seemed loose at this time anyway
 
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I had the same issue with the foot on my Z-70-200/2.8. I warned peolple on fredmiranda and asked Nikon to recall them. Oh boy, I got some bad reactions there. I unsubscribed from them.
I had to solve it myself using locktite.
 
Just a heads up. I have a Nikon 600mm 6.3. I noticed a bit of play where my foot (Hejnar replacement foot) connects to the lens. I tried tightening the foot and it didn't work so I looked more closely and noticed it was actually the four screws holding the mount on the lens coming loose. Two were backing right out and two just needed a half turn. Apparently they don't use locktite on these screws!
Thanks for posting this because my plate on the 600PF was always kind of loose and I thought I had tightened it down. I took the plate off to check the screws, they were fine, but when I put it back on I realized that because the screw was difficult to turn I actually had not tightened it down all the way and I've been shooting with it like that since I got it a few years back. I probably need to order a replacement screw. It's tight now!
 
I have not even been able to find Loctite 241(blue) closest I can find is 242 (blue) ... 271(red) says it is high strength .. color me confused not a diy type. I have a phillips marked ph000 that seems to fit but is probably not quite right but nothing seemed loose at this time anyway
Loctite 241 : Medium strength, low viscosity threadlocking adhesive. Formulated for small metal threads up to M12.
Loctite 242 : Medium strength, medium viscosity thixotropic threadlocking adhesive for metal thread sizes up to M36

i used 242
 
FWIW, I use a drop of BLUE locktite on threaded screws like those described. My older Nikon lenses like my older 600mm f/4 G and 200-400mm G lens definitely used blue locktite (or similar blue thread locker) as well as it was obvious when I swapped the stock feet for low profile feet. I don't know what they're shipping today but if in doubt I'll add a drop (just a drop) of blue loctite to those small machine screws holding lens feet to the body but definitely not red loctite or the screws will likely never come out again.
Completely agree just a drop of blue thread lock is enough and its not difficult to remove the screws if and when required.
 
242 is perfect.
No clue why the Nikon Service repair manual says 241 but I ordered 242 along with a set of Vessel, a brand recommended by a camera repair guy, bits and handles it was not that much more than just ordering one JIS#0 driver. I did not find a Wheeler or other torque driver with the type of bit set I would want, not sure if I will bother trying to find one.
 
I already own a proper torque bit driver , so I will be setting the torque to 1.59 inch lbs (converted from 18 Nm) and properly set the 4 screws with loctite Blue. If your looking for a small yet handy driver, the wheeler brand is very good quality and reliable. See here: Wheeler Manual Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance https://a.co/d/2CSrKCP
The Wheeler I could find from this link and others does not go low enough to set toque to 0.18 N-m ? Anyone find one that will go that low?
 
Just a heads up. I have a Nikon 600mm 6.3. I noticed a bit of play where my foot (Hejnar replacement foot) connects to the lens. I tried tightening the foot and it didn't work so I looked more closely and noticed it was actually the four screws holding the mount on the lens coming loose. Two were backing right out and two just needed a half turn. Apparently they don't use locktite on these screws!
Agree 100%........fixed the issue with BLUE Loctite. (y)
 
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