That just means the camera couldn't electronically read the focal length of the lens. This happens when I use some of my oldest manual focus lenses on modern cameras.
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That just means the camera couldn't electronically read the focal length of the lens. This happens when I use some of my oldest manual focus lenses on modern cameras.
Yeah, too much. I went upstairs the other day, but it was too bright so I had to sneak back down to the dungeonGreat video as always Steve! Looks like you have been in the basement alot lately!
Too bright? I wish I had that problemYeah, too much. I went upstairs the other day, but it was too bright so I had to sneak back down to the dungeon
I'll let you know in a couple of months!If anyone is willing to send me to Antartica for a week or so I'm happy to test that out and report back
I can't remember where it was posted but I do remember reading that Nikon has stated their commitment to upgrading camera functions via firmware when possible. No doubt in time new hardware will be released but unless they change their path they'll release firmware updates to the high end cameras at least until some new feature comes along that requires new hardware.Now the question is: Will Nikon continue improving the firmware on Z9 or release a different body with the next version of improved firmware as a ploy to sell more hardware?
I still use Wide sometimes (especially if the bird is tough to pick out in a crowd), but I am finding that Auto is really a good way to go with the newer firmware. The thing is, when you use Wide + 3D (with SD), if SD drops the target and the small 3D AF area isn't actually on the target, it can jump to the background. When SD drops the target in Auto, there's a good chance that Auto AF will pick what's already sharp in the viewfinder as the first place it tried to focus - which is usually going to be the bird. Since SD is working better, I'm don't find as much need to sort of do it myself with Wide (or Wide + 3d).@Steve I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but curious - in your video you used Auto Area AF + SD most of the time whereas in the past you've recommended Wide-L + SD or Wide-S + SD. With FW 4.10 are you seeing Auto Area + SD doing as good of job with picking up birds as Wide-L/S or are the Wide modes still better overall? Thinking especially for picking up a bird on the edge and moving all the way to the other edge, will Auto + SD now track most of the way or is it still best to use a Wide mode with 3D handoff?
That makes sense - if there are a bunch of eyes to choose from Auto will choose for you based on the programing whereas Wide allows you to limit what the AF system is looking at.I still use Wide sometimes (especially if the bird is tough to pick out in a crowd),
I have observed this as well.but I am finding that Auto is really a good way to go with the newer firmware. The thing is, when you use Wide + 3D (with SD), if SD drops the target and the small 3D AF area isn't actually on the target, it can jump to the background.
That's pretty significant I would say, definitely something to explore. Thank you for doing so much investigating on these new features.When SD drops the target in Auto, there's a good chance that Auto AF will pick what's already sharp in the viewfinder as the first place it tried to focus - which is usually going to be the bird. Since SD is working better, I'm don't find as much need to sort of do it myself with Wide (or Wide + 3d).
I have my Fn1 button set to exactly that - Single Point AF. I use that when I need to turn Subject Detection off momentarily. That leaves my Fn2 button free for whatever RSF I want to assign to it. If I need to turn Subject Detection off for longer periods I do it in my iMenu.I'm stuck TBH.
Right now, this moment, I'm thinking about maybe changing my Fn2 button to Single Point AF and using it when I want an AF area with SD.
There's no way around having only one Recall Shooting Function per bank.Anybody else know a way around this?
I'm going off memory hear but I believe I have avoided using the banks because similar to what Steve shared in the video, if you change any settings it overrides the bank, you have to save your settings to a card and essentially reset all settings to get back to original. Because of this feature I have avoided using the banks cause I change too much and forget to go back. It would be great if there was a button dedicated to not just RSF but for swapping banks and each time you swap it "resets" back to original settings.There's no way around having only one Recall Shooting Function per bank.
That's correct.I'm going off memory hear but I believe I have avoided using the banks because similar to what Steve shared in the video, if you change any settings it overrides the bank, you have to save your settings to a card and essentially reset all settings to get back to original. Because of this feature I have avoided using the banks cause I change too much and forget to go back. It would be great if there was a button dedicated to not just RSF but for swapping banks and each time you swap it "resets" back to original settings.
Or have three banks set up. A, B and C. Then copy the bank you want to use for a given outing to D. Use D and any changes will only affect D. Of course, you need to remember to do it.That's correct.
One trick if you don't want to use the memory card and only need a couple of banks is to use Bank A and B as you primary banks and copy them - the way you want them - to Banks C & D. Then, if you change stuff in Bank A, you can restore it with Bank C ( and Bank B from D). About as elegant as spilled spaghetti, but no memory card backup required. The truth is, Nikon just needs to put a Lock switch in so (when it's enabled) if you go out of and bank and come back in, it goes to your defaults for that bank.
That works too. For me, I kind of think of the banks as a fast way to jump from one set of settings to another while on an outing though, not something I would necessarily pre-set forehand. I think that would make for an excess of jumping around in the menu for what I do. And that's really my overall complaint with the banks - by the time I'm done playing all the games with them, I could have just switched the camera around the way I wantOr have three banks set up. A, B and C. Then copy the bank you want to use for a given outing to D. Use D and any changes will only affect D. Of course, you need to remember to do it.
Not 3D, but Auto is what I'm using more now. Sometimes I still use Wide, but Auto is my current goto by a nose.@Steve , I'm just not real coordinated, so I've been using my default mode as Wide / Large, then when I acquire the subject, I press & release F1 to go to 3D. It's been working for me, but I would certainly like to rapidly switch between animal and bird. You've admonished me in other posts to not use the "hold" feature and get used to just holding the F1 down. I've tried not much luck. But in an earlier post, for this thread, I thought you indicated you might be moving away from using wide / large and you're just using the 3D mode from the start. Did I read that correctly? Maybe that would work for me and I could make some changes to how I'm acquiring the subject.
I've been asking for that for a long timeWhy not add an option to lock/unlock banks so changes are not saved or saved.
Why not add an option to lock/unlock banks so changes are not saved or saved.
I'd also like to see a way to couple the Shooing banks with the custom menu banks...I always switch them in pairs.I've been asking for that for a long time
They do for sure. Sony has it figured out and it works well.I'd also like to see a way to couple the Shooing banks with the custom menu banks...I always switch them in pairs.
They really need to rethink these banks....
I still use Wide sometimes (especially if the bird is tough to pick out in a crowd), but I am finding that Auto is really a good way to go with the newer firmware. The thing is, when you use Wide + 3D (with SD), if SD drops the target and the small 3D AF area isn't actually on the target, it can jump to the background. When SD drops the target in Auto, there's a good chance that Auto AF will pick what's already sharp in the viewfinder as the first place it tried to focus - which is usually going to be the bird. Since SD is working better, I'm don't find as much need to sort of do it myself with Wide (or Wide + 3d).