Marco74
Well-known member
As for lodging, is it better to split the nights between Gardiner and West Yellowstone, or does it not matter? I'm thinking that maybe the north gate is less crowded than the west gate (but I'm probably wrong).
Planning a trip to Yellowstone N.P. August 2024
- Thread starter Marco74
- Start date
If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).
Calson
Well-known member
Consider flying into Bozeman and renting a vehicle there. You will save a couple of days of driving. Also check the roads and park entrances that will be open in August as there is a lot of road and bridge work being done.
Overall West Yellowstone is a great base for trips inside the park. Better than staying in Gardiner. Logistics are better if going around YNP and GT and considering whether or not to spend several days in the Moab area. Las Vegas is a good hopping off point for traveling to the Grand Canyon and Zion, etc. The distance from Las Vegas airport to West Yellowstone is 750 miles and will entail 11 hours of driving which eats up a couple of days of your trip.
Start your days in the early morning and you will avoid the hottest part of the day and also the times when crows are heaviest. More important than water is having good hats with full brims and not the dumb baseball hats that are so popular with Americans. The Tilley hats work very well and have front and rear strap options to keep them on your head and they can be flattened in your luggage and then popped out for use. Long sleeve synthetic shirts also breathe well and keep the direct rays of the sun off your skin. Only areas where it may be a concern is around Moab.
Yellowstone is located at a high elevation where the air is thinner and so UV is much stronger. Skin block and long sleeves and a hat are very protective in this regard.
Overall West Yellowstone is a great base for trips inside the park. Better than staying in Gardiner. Logistics are better if going around YNP and GT and considering whether or not to spend several days in the Moab area. Las Vegas is a good hopping off point for traveling to the Grand Canyon and Zion, etc. The distance from Las Vegas airport to West Yellowstone is 750 miles and will entail 11 hours of driving which eats up a couple of days of your trip.
Start your days in the early morning and you will avoid the hottest part of the day and also the times when crows are heaviest. More important than water is having good hats with full brims and not the dumb baseball hats that are so popular with Americans. The Tilley hats work very well and have front and rear strap options to keep them on your head and they can be flattened in your luggage and then popped out for use. Long sleeve synthetic shirts also breathe well and keep the direct rays of the sun off your skin. Only areas where it may be a concern is around Moab.
Yellowstone is located at a high elevation where the air is thinner and so UV is much stronger. Skin block and long sleeves and a hat are very protective in this regard.
It is always difficult to give good travel advice, you never know what the expectations are for others when traveling. We have been traveling to Yellowstone and the Tetons since 1980, sometimes as many as 3 trips a summer. You said you were traveling with your family but you didn't say ages or how many. Here are my suggestions to add to lots of other good suggestions. In no particular order.
The lodging in Yellowstone National Park is managed by Xanterra and the reservations opened August 2023 for August 2024 accommodations. The reservations in Grand Teton National Park are either Grand Teton Lodge Company or Signal Mountain Lodge. You can stay in communities around the park as well but you have to make the drive in each day.
Check the schedules, reservation systems, and construction schedules for the parks and areas you want to visit. Yellowstone has several road construction projects underway and the roads may close at night or during certain times each day. The National Parks web sites are probably the best place to find current information. You don't want to get separated from your lodging overnight.
The cell phone reception is good in the Tetons now but there is limited cell phone service in Yellowstone. You will be able to get reception at the major developed areas in Yellowstone but there is little around the rest of the park as of this past summer. We like to spend time at Roosevelt Lodge in the north east part of Yellowstone and there really isn't any cell service in that part of the park. We know one spot we can visit each day and check messages or contact family. This may change, but be aware. We are just so accustomed to "looking things up on our phone" and that just doesn't happen in most of Yellowstone.
The National Parks concessionaires and the surrounding communities rely heavily on either retired, college, or foreign workers to staff their seasonal positions. Since 2020 businesses have had difficulty adequately staffing all necessary positions. This is especially true early and late in the summer when students return to school. We have seen more limited hours and limited offerings especially in the food service areas. Be sure to check food service hours and plan accordingly.
Don't be fooled by the travel distances around Yellowstone. It is only 30 miles from the town of West Yellowstone to Old Faithful, very early in the morning this could be a pleasant drive of under an hour. But if you have breakfast and leave West Yellowstone at 8:30 am you could have to wait 30 minutes at the entrance station, add bison on the roadway which is likely in August, then add lots of traffic around the geyser basins and the drive could take two hours or more. We once followed a herd of Bison along a stretch of roadway east of Mammoth and we could only travel as fast as the Bison wanted to walk.
If you have never been to Yellowstone and you are not just interested in wildlife there are several areas of the park that could each require at least a day to explore. We have been to Yellowstone at least 80 times. We really like to stay in the very rustic accommodations at Roosevelt Lodge in the north east corner of the park. We love that area for several reasons, we have become wolf watchers and we enjoy spending the day out in the Lamar Valley looking for wolves and other wildlife and I have become addicted to fishing Soda Butte Creek. We have not stayed at Old Faithful for a number of years but we have reservations for this June to stay there. We are meeting my daughter, son-in-law, and my two grandkids there in June. Old Faithful Inn is spectacular, it will be busy, but in the evening it is great to sit on the balcony and have a drink while watching Old Faithful erupt as the sun sets. Staying at Old Faithful allows you a full day to explore the geyser basins. You can hit the trail along the upper geyser basin at sunrise when you don't have to share it with many other visitors and have a leisurely mid morning breakfast. If you want to view the geysers check the schedules, I believe there is an app for that now.
I would really suggest that you keep a well stocked cooler and food box with you at all times. When traveling around Yellowstone or the Tetons it is nice to be able to take a lunch break at a picnic area along the way instead of having to drive somewhere to eat.
Have a great trip! Yellowstone and the Tetons are my favorite places on earth!
The lodging in Yellowstone National Park is managed by Xanterra and the reservations opened August 2023 for August 2024 accommodations. The reservations in Grand Teton National Park are either Grand Teton Lodge Company or Signal Mountain Lodge. You can stay in communities around the park as well but you have to make the drive in each day.
Check the schedules, reservation systems, and construction schedules for the parks and areas you want to visit. Yellowstone has several road construction projects underway and the roads may close at night or during certain times each day. The National Parks web sites are probably the best place to find current information. You don't want to get separated from your lodging overnight.
The cell phone reception is good in the Tetons now but there is limited cell phone service in Yellowstone. You will be able to get reception at the major developed areas in Yellowstone but there is little around the rest of the park as of this past summer. We like to spend time at Roosevelt Lodge in the north east part of Yellowstone and there really isn't any cell service in that part of the park. We know one spot we can visit each day and check messages or contact family. This may change, but be aware. We are just so accustomed to "looking things up on our phone" and that just doesn't happen in most of Yellowstone.
The National Parks concessionaires and the surrounding communities rely heavily on either retired, college, or foreign workers to staff their seasonal positions. Since 2020 businesses have had difficulty adequately staffing all necessary positions. This is especially true early and late in the summer when students return to school. We have seen more limited hours and limited offerings especially in the food service areas. Be sure to check food service hours and plan accordingly.
Don't be fooled by the travel distances around Yellowstone. It is only 30 miles from the town of West Yellowstone to Old Faithful, very early in the morning this could be a pleasant drive of under an hour. But if you have breakfast and leave West Yellowstone at 8:30 am you could have to wait 30 minutes at the entrance station, add bison on the roadway which is likely in August, then add lots of traffic around the geyser basins and the drive could take two hours or more. We once followed a herd of Bison along a stretch of roadway east of Mammoth and we could only travel as fast as the Bison wanted to walk.
If you have never been to Yellowstone and you are not just interested in wildlife there are several areas of the park that could each require at least a day to explore. We have been to Yellowstone at least 80 times. We really like to stay in the very rustic accommodations at Roosevelt Lodge in the north east corner of the park. We love that area for several reasons, we have become wolf watchers and we enjoy spending the day out in the Lamar Valley looking for wolves and other wildlife and I have become addicted to fishing Soda Butte Creek. We have not stayed at Old Faithful for a number of years but we have reservations for this June to stay there. We are meeting my daughter, son-in-law, and my two grandkids there in June. Old Faithful Inn is spectacular, it will be busy, but in the evening it is great to sit on the balcony and have a drink while watching Old Faithful erupt as the sun sets. Staying at Old Faithful allows you a full day to explore the geyser basins. You can hit the trail along the upper geyser basin at sunrise when you don't have to share it with many other visitors and have a leisurely mid morning breakfast. If you want to view the geysers check the schedules, I believe there is an app for that now.
I would really suggest that you keep a well stocked cooler and food box with you at all times. When traveling around Yellowstone or the Tetons it is nice to be able to take a lunch break at a picnic area along the way instead of having to drive somewhere to eat.
Have a great trip! Yellowstone and the Tetons are my favorite places on earth!
PhotoLover
Well-known member
I haven't been there often enough to have an opinion. We stayed inside Yellowstone when I went (shoulder season, booked long in advance).
The thing that surprised me was the long driving time to get from point A to point B inside the park, and that was with less traffic than you'll see.
Marco74
Well-known member
Thanks Calson,
Sorry for the delay in my response. Time flies and with so many things going through my head, I struggle not to lose pieces along the way.
After reading your message yesterday, we started looking and booking a hotel for 4 nights in the West Yellowstone area.
We have seen that the route to Las Vegas is quite long. I don't like spending many hours driving, so we will probably make some intermediate stops.
The information on what to bring is also very useful, I will write down all these notes to better equip ourselves.
Thanks for your help.
Marco74
Well-known member
Dear Martyd,
I will be 50 on August 15th, my wife will be 56, and my son will be two months away from turning 18. Let's say that we are of an adequate age to face the holidays without too many problems and difficulties. Indeed, my son will be the one who will suffer less heat and tiredness, but it is also easier to get bored. Youth no longer know how to appreciate the simple things that the world gives us. Then if, as you say, there are problems connecting to the Internet, for me it will be heaven, for him it will be hell.
These days, we are looking for hotels.
Thanks to your advice, we have more precise ideas. Time passes quickly and many accommodations are no longer available. Furthermore, our budget is not unlimited. The flight from Italy to America, the various internal movements, and the rental car weigh heavily on the total budget. However, we are not discouraged; with some sacrifices and compromises, we are sure we can organize an excellent trip.
Martyd, together with all our other friends, has given us a lot of practical, if not indispensable, information. Thank you very much for your kindness and for taking the time to help us. I hope one day to be able to reciprocate. If you decide to visit Italy, my wife and I will try to provide you with as much information as possible, and maybe, who knows, with a bit of luck, we might even meet.
Thanks for everything.
Hi Marco,
You might want to view Duncan Foley's video on Yellowstone: "Photographing Wonderland - Exploring the dynamic landscapes of Yellowstone" that he presented a few years ago at a meeting of the Nature Photographers of the Pacific Northwest. It starts at the 8:30 point in https://www.nppnw.org/november-2022-video/. I don't know if you're interested in the geology of Yellowstone, but you (or your son) may find some of the weekly columns from the Yellowstone Volcano Observatory of interest; see https://www.usgs.gov/volcanoes/yellowstone/caldera-chronicles. Also, if you want to take some time to acclimate to the higher elevation of the Northern Rockies, you might visit the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman before you head to YNP.
I hope you have a great trip.
You might want to view Duncan Foley's video on Yellowstone: "Photographing Wonderland - Exploring the dynamic landscapes of Yellowstone" that he presented a few years ago at a meeting of the Nature Photographers of the Pacific Northwest. It starts at the 8:30 point in https://www.nppnw.org/november-2022-video/. I don't know if you're interested in the geology of Yellowstone, but you (or your son) may find some of the weekly columns from the Yellowstone Volcano Observatory of interest; see https://www.usgs.gov/volcanoes/yellowstone/caldera-chronicles. Also, if you want to take some time to acclimate to the higher elevation of the Northern Rockies, you might visit the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman before you head to YNP.
I hope you have a great trip.
MikeInMI
Active member
I found three to four days in Yellowstone was about right; however, you can spend more time if you want to go hiking along a lot of the trails. Also, I went in October and it wasn't crowded. In the Summer it is likely to have much more traffic, so it might take longer to get through the highlights. I assume you are aware of the need to have a timed pass to enter?
Cropfield
New member
You are right - you need a reservation to visit Arches. Try to get an early one - e.g. 6am - to watch the sunrise.
Also listen to other people's good advice - 13 days isn't much given all the places you want to visit. Spend at least three days in Yellow Stone and another three days in Grand Teton.
Skip Las Vegas and spend your time in Utah - Arches as well as the four of Utah's Mighty Five is a life time experience.
jhorsch
Active member
As others noted, Yellowstone will be very crowded and the roads sometimes blocked by "critter jams" but absolutely worth visiting nonetheless. Given your schedule I'd spend 3-4 days there and then drive down to Grand Tetons NP in Jackson Hole - it's a relatively short drive from Yellowstone - and spend 2-3 days there. From Jackson I'd drive to southern Utah and visit Arches, Bryce Canyon, Capital Reef and Canyonlands National Parks (not necessarily in that order) and spend the balance of my time there. I understand Zion is crazy crowded, and they may even limit daily visitors (you may want to research that), so you may want to skip Zion. The landscape photography opportunities in southern Utah are fantastic, in my opinion. Do keep in mind it will be very hot there in August. Finally, be sure to book your hotels soon.
A last thought. Visit Bozeman Camera if you have any photography needs before you head down to Yellowstone. Excellent store with friendly and knowledgeable staff.
Buona fortuna.
A last thought. Visit Bozeman Camera if you have any photography needs before you head down to Yellowstone. Excellent store with friendly and knowledgeable staff.
Buona fortuna.
August and the Utah parks and Las Vegas will be very hot. Besides the Yellowstone and Grand Teton there are a lot of other good wildlife and landscape ops around there. For more information on those and intel on what is going on in the parks you can stop in at The Yellowstone Camera Store in West Yellowstone ... they have info., gear, rentals and more. https://www.yellowstonecamera.com/
I usually stay in West Yellowstone at Three Bears Lodge and travel around the area from there. Of course there are other options in the parks.
Lakeman
Active member
If you have a problem getting Entry Tickets at Arches you can get in before 6 AM or after 5 PM without one. If you do this I would suggest 5:45 AM, park rangers start at 6:00 AM so they may be there a few minutes early. I've done this at Rocky Mountain NP and Glacier NP when I had problems getting entry passes.
It's out there every night. What dates you coming over? Milky Way shouldn't be a problem as long as the moon isn't out full all night. I've taken astrophotos at all the national parks I've visited. Two of my favorite spots are North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and Bryce Canyon NP.
Night time at Yellowstone Lake beach is a nice spot for Milky Way shots. And daytime there the kids might like.
Lakeman
Active member
I've been at the North Gate, West Gate, and South Gates in both Spring and late Summer. Least crowed was West Gate. Also there in 2019 when they were working and re-black topping the roads, what a nightmare sat for as long as an hour one day. South gate was where we had the longest wait. Both Gardiner and West Yellowstone are nice places to stay. If you go to West Yellowstone take the kids to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center. https://www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org/
MarkB
Member
It will take about three hours to drive from Yellowstone to the Tetons, depending on where you are staying, then 8 to 9 hours to Moab, then 6 to 7 hours to Vegas. So conservatively say 3 out of your 13 days, that leaves 10 days. I've been to Yellowstone and the Tetons multiple times and also to Arches, Canyon Lands and Vegas 3 times.
If you can, maybe stay at two different locations in Yellowstone to cut down the driving. I really liked the Lake Hotel and Lodge and then the Old Faithful area. Say 2 days at each location. My favorites locations in YS are Lamar Valley, Grand Canyon of YS, Mammoth (the Beaver Ponds hike is my favorite) and the Old Faithful Geyser Basin. Don't miss the Grand Prismatic Pool.
Then two days at the Tetons. It's a fairly small park and you can cover it in two days if you don't do much hiking. I'd suggest a day at Jenny Lake and hiking up to Inspiration Point and on your way, on the south side of the lake are the Moose Ponds where one can often see Moose. I saw 5 there at the same time in the fall of 2022. I also suggest driving Moose Wilson Road, there are often black bear and moose along the road. Then on the east side of the park, across the highway (close to Moose) is Morman Row where one sees the classic view of the Tetons and the old barns.
Then two days in Moab. You can cover Arches in one day if you don't do any long hikes. Get there early to hike to Delicate Arch, it will be very warm in the summer. Most of the notable arches are just a short walk from the park road.
Canyonlands can also be done in one day if you just drive through and look at the overlooks and the short hike sites. If you have time on your way out, stop by Dead Horse point, its a very beautiful area.
It takes a little more time to drive, but my suggestion is to go north from Moab to Interstate 70 and then take highway 24 to highway 12 for your trip to Vegas. You will pass through Capitol Reef National Park and even if you don't stop, there are some incredible sights right on the highway. Then route 12 goes through Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and that route is an Utah Scenic Byway, a very nice drive. And if you start really early you could stop at Bryce Canyon NP for a couple of hours, it's enough to walk the main part of the rim trail. Lots to see in Utah.
That leave 2 days for Vegas, one day to drive to Valley of Fire State Park (yes it's worth it) and another day to walk the Vegas strip and see the sights. Maybe catch a show at night. I have lots of photos on my web page if you want to see each of the areas.
https://markburgess.zenfolio.com
If you can, maybe stay at two different locations in Yellowstone to cut down the driving. I really liked the Lake Hotel and Lodge and then the Old Faithful area. Say 2 days at each location. My favorites locations in YS are Lamar Valley, Grand Canyon of YS, Mammoth (the Beaver Ponds hike is my favorite) and the Old Faithful Geyser Basin. Don't miss the Grand Prismatic Pool.
Then two days at the Tetons. It's a fairly small park and you can cover it in two days if you don't do much hiking. I'd suggest a day at Jenny Lake and hiking up to Inspiration Point and on your way, on the south side of the lake are the Moose Ponds where one can often see Moose. I saw 5 there at the same time in the fall of 2022. I also suggest driving Moose Wilson Road, there are often black bear and moose along the road. Then on the east side of the park, across the highway (close to Moose) is Morman Row where one sees the classic view of the Tetons and the old barns.
Then two days in Moab. You can cover Arches in one day if you don't do any long hikes. Get there early to hike to Delicate Arch, it will be very warm in the summer. Most of the notable arches are just a short walk from the park road.
Canyonlands can also be done in one day if you just drive through and look at the overlooks and the short hike sites. If you have time on your way out, stop by Dead Horse point, its a very beautiful area.
It takes a little more time to drive, but my suggestion is to go north from Moab to Interstate 70 and then take highway 24 to highway 12 for your trip to Vegas. You will pass through Capitol Reef National Park and even if you don't stop, there are some incredible sights right on the highway. Then route 12 goes through Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and that route is an Utah Scenic Byway, a very nice drive. And if you start really early you could stop at Bryce Canyon NP for a couple of hours, it's enough to walk the main part of the rim trail. Lots to see in Utah.
That leave 2 days for Vegas, one day to drive to Valley of Fire State Park (yes it's worth it) and another day to walk the Vegas strip and see the sights. Maybe catch a show at night. I have lots of photos on my web page if you want to see each of the areas.
https://markburgess.zenfolio.com
Last edited:
I like Yellowstone less than most people on this forum. I like Grand Teton a lot more (and for landscapes it is FAR better). August is crowded but that can also be a good thing because crowds accumulate when there is a good wildlife sighting like a bear, so you can look for groups of cars pulled over to help find wildlife.
Moab is a great place to visit both Arches and Canyonlands and I would spend two or three nights there. Bryce Canyon is nice if you can fit it in your schedule. Zion I do not like as much because it is too crowded and the photo opportunities are limited (it's a beautiful spot, just hard to frame good photos in the narrow canyon). Just outside Las Vegas is Boulder City and there is a small city park (Hemenway Park) where desert bighorn sheep come from the surrounding rocks and graze on the lawn daily. If you go at sunset you can get photos of them going back up onto the rocky terrain.
Moab is a great place to visit both Arches and Canyonlands and I would spend two or three nights there. Bryce Canyon is nice if you can fit it in your schedule. Zion I do not like as much because it is too crowded and the photo opportunities are limited (it's a beautiful spot, just hard to frame good photos in the narrow canyon). Just outside Las Vegas is Boulder City and there is a small city park (Hemenway Park) where desert bighorn sheep come from the surrounding rocks and graze on the lawn daily. If you go at sunset you can get photos of them going back up onto the rocky terrain.
fulltimewanderer
Active member
Marco,
My suggestion for lodging would be Gardiner and Canyon Village. To me West Yellowstone and the west entrance gets a little too crowded and busy. Gardiner/North Gate is the original entrance with the arch. Arch would make a nice foreground for the Milky Way. Canyon Village is a convenient location to tour the park, also the view of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone is a Great place to visit. My favorite view is from Artist Point, also another option for shooting the Milky Way.
Marco74
Well-known member
Dear Glen,
Thanks for sharing the link to an exciting video. I will look into it for sure; I need only to wait for less stressful periods. I'm collapsed with work, which is madness, but on the other hand, I can not have the budget for these expensive trips without it.
I check the elevation of the Northern Rockies.
I'm pretty used to altitudes. I often go to the mountains in the North West of Italy; there, it's pretty easy to reach 3000 m. My family is less used to it, but I think and hope there will be no problems.
Thanks for all the helpful information.
Marco74
Well-known member
Hi Mike,
My wife and I are planning the trips on these days. As the first step, we are looking for accommodation to find a good place at the right price. Unfortunately, our budget has a limit.
We know the requirements of the entry pass; in any case, tanks remind us of this point.
Marco74
Well-known member
Dear Cropfield,
We need to run every day to see many unique locations in 13 days; we know that. At the same time, we already know we will lose something, but this trip will surely not be the last in that part of the USA. The next one will probably be without my son, and all will be easier (and cheaper). Now he is 17th years old, and at that age, it isn't easy to please them.
We need to pass Las Vegas, which is of very little interest to us as a destination, but we have to go there because we will take the return flight from there at the end of the holiday.
Ask advice from other people is a good suggestion; I'm a little shy, and my poor command of the English language doesn't help me. I will try to talk to people as much as possible.
Thanks for your advice.
Marco74
Well-known member
Hi Jhorsch,
Our trip will be planned more or less according to your advice. We're gathering a lot of helpful information, and a lot of it points in that direction.
Unfortunately, we have our long holidays in August, it is the worst time to travel and the most expensive, but we have no alternatives for distant destinations.
If I have some time and money left over, I will visit the Bozeman Camera store; I already know I will hardly leave empty-handed.
Marco74
Well-known member
Thanks, Ken, for your helpful information.
We will check Three Bears Lodge. Thanks.
Marco74
Well-known member
Dear Lakeman,
When I pack my baggage, particularly the photography backpack, I will see if there will be space for the right equipment to photograph the Milky Way.
The biggest problem will probably be the weight limit of hand luggage I can take on the plane. That's usually always the biggest obstacle. As a first choice, I will aim for landscape and animal photos; I will have to try to find the space for the tripod.
RikWriter
Well-known member
If you're in charge of the itinerary inside the park in YS and GT, my advice is leave early from your hotel, maybe as early as 4:30AM, to see wildlife. If most of your people won't get up that early, then go by yourself and cruise the roads in one part of the park (a different one each day) and get back by 9-10 to eat breakfast with your family. Then, in the afternoon, pick one place and stay there, like Norris or Old Faithful or wherever, someplace you can hike out of and picnic, etc... Don't drive at all between 10-4 if you can help it. Then, in the evening, take your family out for wildlife viewing between 5-8 or so.
Lakeman
Active member
Camera with short focal length lens and tripod can get some nice pics, in 2016 I even used a pillow and two pieces of wood to hold the camera
because I didn't have a tripod with me. For Comet Neowise in 2020 I used an old Nikon D3300 with 18-55 kit lens and small GorillaPod and set it on the hood of my truck. I was down at the lake, spotted it with binoculars had that camera laying in the tuck and didn't want to run back up to the house, you don't have to have expensive equipment sometimes.
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
Here is what i use around the house for Astro.
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
Last edited:
raptor photo
Well-known member
Does anyone know of a reliable spot to find great grays in Yellowstone? Most good locations can be found online but haven't gotten any good locations for GGO in Yellowstone.