Sony 300GM

If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).

Member's gallery
20240914-_A1B8555-ARW-2.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
Member's gallery
There are some amazing images on this thread! And good information.
I'm more interested in the field craft associated with these since the 300gm is out of my reach. Thanks for sharing the images.
 
AlanB313 said:
I'm more interested in the field craft associated with these since the 300gm is out of my reach. Thanks for sharing the images.
Click to expand...
1. find bird
2. get closer
3. maneuver to avoid obstructing foreground clutter
4. maneuver to avoid excess background clutter
5. maneuver to include just enough background to illustrate habitat/context
6. wait for favorable lighting
7. anticipate behavior
8. patience
9. push button

The fieldcraft varies according to the species and its habitation. #2 above is the biggest stumbling block and without the requisite fieldcraft many users will believe that a longer lens is the solution to the problem, but this brings with it a whole new set of obstacles (heavy equipment, light wallet, & atmospheric distortion for example).

The trick to #2 is studying the animal's behavior. They're as much creatures of habit as we are. It might have a favorite path, feeding area, bathing spot, grooming perch. Wait quietly nearby and it will sooner or later return to that spot. A blind might be necessary for some species, and #8 above is essential. For many years my 'long' lens was a 300mm f/4 more or less.

White-tailed Kite at its favorite perch. I waited 12 hours in a home-made blind for this photo. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor. This lens is now worth less than $100.

elaleu00.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

​

American Pika on its favorite path from hayfield to hay pile. I waited quietly for much of a day, 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor with E2 extension ring.

ochpri00.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


​
Black-tailed Jackrabbit, pausing while feeding. Acting like a prey animal, not like a predator for about an hour put the jackrabbit at ease. They seek shelter as the day warms so I had to start very early in the day. Leica 280mm f/4

lepcal06.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


​
Bullock's Oriole in a suburban yard. I did a lot of #3, #4 and #5 (above) to hide the bird's missing tail. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor.

ictbul00.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.


​
Snowy Owl on California beach in the winter. I spent several hours creeping through the sand to avoid spooking the bird only to find the owl didn't care, I could have walked right up to it. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor.

bubsca00.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.

​

The fancy big lenses can be very handy but you shouldn't allow a fragile wallet keep you from photographing wildlife.
 
Last edited:
Member's gallery
Doug Herr said:
1. find bird
2. get closer
3. maneuver to avoid obstructing foreground clutter
4. maneuver to avoid excess background clutter
5. maneuver to include just enough background to illustrate habitat/context
6. wait for favorable lighting
7. anticipate behavior
8. patience
9. push button

The fieldcraft varies according to the species and its habitation. #2 above is the biggest stumbling block and without the requisite fieldcraft many users will believe that a longer lens is the solution to the problem, but this brings with it a whole new set of obstacles (heavy equipment, light wallet, & atmospheric distortion for example).

The trick to #2 is studying the animal's behavior. They're as much creatures of habit as we are. It might have a favorite path, feeding area, bathing spot, grooming perch. Wait quietly nearby and it will sooner or later return to that spot. A blind might be necessary for some species, and #8 above is essential. For many years my 'long' lens was a 300mm f/4 more or less.

White-tailed Kite at its favorite perch. I waited 12 hours in a home-made blind for this photo. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor. This lens is now worth less than $100.


American Pika on its favorite path from hayfield to hay pile. I waited quietly for much of a day, 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor with E2 extension ring.

Black-tailed Jackrabbit, pausing while feeding. Acting like a prey animal, not like a predator for about an hour put the jackrabbit at ease. They seek shelter as the day warms so I had to start very early in the day. Leica 280mm f/4

Bullock's Oriole in a suburban yard. I did a lot of #3, #4 and #5 (above) to hide the bird's missing tail. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor,

Snowy Owl on California beach in the winter. I spent several hours creeping through the sand to avoid spooking the bird only to find the owl didn't care, I could have walked right up to it. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor.


The fancy big lenses can be very handy but you shouldn't allow a fragile wallet keep you from photographing wildlife.
Click to expand...
YUP! All of that! I use a couple of different types of blinds. I often enter blind a solid hour or two before sunrise. I often leave the blind in position for weeks or more before ever using the blind.
 
Member's gallery
Here is an example of field craft, patience, knowing the area, using a blind that has been in place all summer but not used until last weekend. I had several subjects work the area and all summer the area has been maintained to support some birds and promote them wanting to naturally be in the area.
20240914-_A1B5831-ARW-2.jpg
You can only see EXIF info for this image if you are logged in.
 
Member's gallery
Doug Herr said:
1. find bird
2. get closer
3. maneuver to avoid obstructing foreground clutter
4. maneuver to avoid excess background clutter
5. maneuver to include just enough background to illustrate habitat/context
6. wait for favorable lighting
7. anticipate behavior
8. patience
9. push button

The fieldcraft varies according to the species and its habitation. #2 above is the biggest stumbling block and without the requisite fieldcraft many users will believe that a longer lens is the solution to the problem, but this brings with it a whole new set of obstacles (heavy equipment, light wallet, & atmospheric distortion for example).

The trick to #2 is studying the animal's behavior. They're as much creatures of habit as we are. It might have a favorite path, feeding area, bathing spot, grooming perch. Wait quietly nearby and it will sooner or later return to that spot. A blind might be necessary for some species, and #8 above is essential. For many years my 'long' lens was a 300mm f/4 more or less.

White-tailed Kite at its favorite perch. I waited 12 hours in a home-made blind for this photo. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor. This lens is now worth less than $100.


American Pika on its favorite path from hayfield to hay pile. I waited quietly for much of a day, 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor with E2 extension ring.

Black-tailed Jackrabbit, pausing while feeding. Acting like a prey animal, not like a predator for about an hour put the jackrabbit at ease. They seek shelter as the day warms so I had to start very early in the day. Leica 280mm f/4

Bullock's Oriole in a suburban yard. I did a lot of #3, #4 and #5 (above) to hide the bird's missing tail. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor,

Snowy Owl on California beach in the winter. I spent several hours creeping through the sand to avoid spooking the bird only to find the owl didn't care, I could have walked right up to it. 300mm f/4.5 Nikkor.


The fancy big lenses can be very handy but you shouldn't allow a fragile wallet keep you from photographing wildlife.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great description! And I agree with not letting the lack of newer gear getting in the way.

All of the above is why I think most of my improvement will come from developing and exercising these skills rather than buying equipment I can't afford or get spousal approval for. I've got good gear, that 8 years ago was state of the art. (D500, 500mm pf, 300mm pf with tc, etc.)

Hence, that's where I'm placing my efforts. Which was the point of my post. But I still learn a lot from discussions like these.

I've done a lot of these in many years of backcountry travel and need to apply them to my new found interest. The images posted are an inspiration.
 
Member's gallery
So I have a question for you guys that already own the 600 GM. Are you planning on keeping both lenses or is this going to be a replacement? This lenses sort of intriguing for me especially because of the weight but I hate to give up the 600 and have to use a tele converter all the time, but it is definitely tempting.
 
Member's gallery
sh1209 said:
So I have a question for you guys that already own the 600 GM. Are you planning on keeping both lenses or is this going to be a replacement? This lenses sort of intriguing for me especially because of the weight but I hate to give up the 600 and have to use a tele converter all the time, but it is definitely tempting.
Click to expand...
So here is my take.
Unlike the majority of photographers on this forum who are from the USA, I am based in the UK. The majority of my photography I do from hides and occasionally the opportunistic way like from a car or walking around. As far as I know there are very few commercial hides in the USA so a long lens like a 600mm with or without converters is a must have. I had a 600 Sony and sold it but: I did buy a Nikon 600PF as it is lightweight and I can take it with me everywhere without breaking my back, yes its slow but nowadays using higher ISOs and noise reduction software works just fine. So no: I don't need a fast 600mm
 
sh1209 said:
So I have a question for you guys that already own the 600 GM. Are you planning on keeping both lenses or is this going to be a replacement? This lenses sort of intriguing for me especially because of the weight but I hate to give up the 600 and have to use a tele converter all the time, but it is definitely tempting.
Click to expand...
I'm keeping both. The 300 with/without TC is my walk-around lens when I want to be prepared for a variety of opportunities. The 600 is best for fixed location, a known subject & the last word in IQ. There's some overlap in use cases but there are clearly times when one or the other is the optimum tool.
 
Member's gallery
sh1209 said:
So I have a question for you guys that already own the 600 GM. Are you planning on keeping both lenses or is this going to be a replacement? This lenses sort of intriguing for me especially because of the weight but I hate to give up the 600 and have to use a tele converter all the time, but it is definitely tempting.
Click to expand...
I’m keeping both. I bought it for when I don’t want to haul the 600 around. I’ve also had times when 600 or 400 are a little to much lens. I do have the 200-600 and 100-400 zooms but they are slower and the f2.8 or f4 sure come in handy early in the day.
I plan on selling the 200-600 and keep the 100-400. What’s unclear to me is if I keep or sell my 400GM.
Another driver for me on the 300 is travel. Often I’m traveling for work and don’t want to check bags etc and the 300 gives me a nice prime with converters I can stick in my suitcase. Oh and I’ve also got GAS for sexy primes, it’s a problem for sure lol.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top