lablover27
Well-known member
Is any of this affected by choosing Adobe rgb vs srgb?
Sony files, what am I missing?
- Thread starter sh1209
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Not sure I can post the raw file on here
I’ve not tried
If you don’t mind me asking, do you use a profile during import?
lablover27
Well-known member
Only reason I ask is I don’t have a Adobe rub monitor…..yet. So I’ve set the camera for srgb because that’s all my monitor can see. Not sure if this is rookie logic on my part. I’m really glad this subject came up btw.
arbitrage
Well-known member
Sensors don't create "flat" images (whatever that means)...lenses might...at least if you are part of the Leica tribe and want that "3D pop" which IMHO is a buch of hogwash.
Take the same shot with both cameras and post the images and show me what a flat image looks like. Then I'll take another look. I have no idea what flat even means in relation to that eagle image.
Ed Erkes
Active member
I used Niikon from 1989 to last February, when I switched to the Sony A1. Have had no issues in processing Sony files regarding color and contrast. I'm sure I do it a little differently, but the process is still the same. If there are whites in the image, such as your eagle shot, then getting color tones right should be simple. A flat image is low in contrast, and increasing contrast is easy in Lightroom and photoshop. I've never had a problem increasing contrast.The problem lies in going the other direction-- improving an image that is too contrasty.
I’ll give that a try
Interesting. I use camera standard and feel my A1 images have just a bit more ‘pop’ than my D850 ones had (using Lightroom Classic with both).
Perhaps I should try the camera profiles in Lightroom to see if there’s a difference.
lablover27
Well-known member
I bet you see a difference. I know I did. I now have a preset to use camera standard on import as opposed to what adobe uses
For raw files it doesn't matter what colorspace is set in camera. Lightroom uses a version of prophoto RGB no matter what is set in camera. If you export from Lightroom you can convert to another colorspace or if you send the file to Photoshop you can choose to stay in prophoto or convert to another colorspace, or convert when exporting. It's all in what you set in the Photoshop color management settings.
For jpeg it does matter, the color profile set by the camera is imbedded in the jpeg.
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After struggling a bit with A2 files I started using Dxo Photolab ( bought it when it was being sold for just 100 $ as recommended by some one in the forum ( Hut2 I think) & am pretty happy with the results .
I do see an occasional color cast which is easy to get rid of & nothing serious.
I do have LR & PS & will try to learn how to use them properly with A1 files
I do see an occasional color cast which is easy to get rid of & nothing serious.
I do have LR & PS & will try to learn how to use them properly with A1 files
Im not sure about the A1 specifically but when i run into a file that feels "flat" I usually head straight to the whites and blacks sliders. I rarely adjust the contrast slider, I find it does too much in the middle tonal range and prefer to adjust saturation separately. Speaking of saturation.... heres a neat trick i use that some may find helpful. When adjusting white balance jack your exposure to 100. This makes it easier to see the actual colors while you adjust white balance.
peter wolf
Member
I tend to agree, I looked at lots of sample files whilst waiting for Nikon to bring back a decent autofocus to the mirrorless range like we had with the d500 etc, but I just couldn't grow to like the colour science and a lot of pictures looked to me like the subject was pasted onto the background. all that said people like Mark Smith (osprey guy) and of course Steve Perry seem to manage quite nicely. have we become accustomed to Nikon files. I wonder if we had started with Sony would we feel the same..
thankfully a z9 is on the way
FWIW....I create a custom camera color profile for each camera I use. I use the Xrite Color Checker Passport and software. Xrite has been purchased by Calibrate but the product is the same. Most of use recognize the value of calibrating our monitors. Creating a custom camera color profile is basically the same process to ensure that the SOURCE image, the raw file, is capturing accurate color information. The profile can then be used in your processing program instead of the canned options.
Calibrate Color Checker Pro
See my post #50 HERE.....for an not-so-brief explanation of the process
Calibrate Color Checker Pro
See my post #50 HERE.....for an not-so-brief explanation of the process
FB101
Well-known member
Hard to tell from a jpg but I am thinking your whites need boosting a bit. One thing I do with Sony files is activate the clipping warning for whites, push them until clipping appears in areas where I don’t want it and then back off. On this shot you’ve done a great job keeping the texture in the snow but it does flatten the overall look.
‘You might also need to open up the shadows to drop the black point but this jpg already looks clipped in the blacks (which is ok).
‘The other thing you can do in PS is a curve that opens up mid and highlights and gently brush it on the lighter part of the bird plumage.
you also have bands of snow that are warmer and others that are bluer, you can see to accentuate those nuances to see if it gives more relief. Honestly this is a great file to play with and explore various editing ideas.
Roy
Well-known member
I had same problem with a A1 that I borrowed and an A7 I had that died.
Nikon and Canon have been doing this for a long time and their "colour science" shows...
You'd have to upload to dropbox, google drive or something like that. I think it may help if someone can get the look you want then explain how they did it.
I’ll post some more today and I’m going to try to take it out and shoot some stationary objects to try and dial in a process.
Here are two files from Monday within 2-3 minutes of each other. These were taken on the Mississippi River in Clarksville MO. Same conditions, wide open 500PF, Sony 200-600, 2 degrees Fahrenheit. Both auto white balance, standard profile applied in Lightroom, no sliders moved. Nikon iso/1600 1/4000th Sony 1/5000th iso/5000
Its amazing to me that two cameras can capture a scene so differently. I'm by no means saying ones better than the other but as you can see there's a stark difference. To me the Sony file just looks muddled and very two dimensional. I just need to get used to editing the files.
Cameras are Nikon Z9 Sony A1
Top image Nikon/Bottom Sony
Its amazing to me that two cameras can capture a scene so differently. I'm by no means saying ones better than the other but as you can see there's a stark difference. To me the Sony file just looks muddled and very two dimensional. I just need to get used to editing the files.
Cameras are Nikon Z9 Sony A1
Top image Nikon/Bottom Sony
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No expert and probably partially colorblind here. BUT, if you cool the Sony file and slide Shadows to the right, they'll be close. Maybe a little more saturation.
I can give that a try but like I said these are straight out of camera with camera standard profiles applied in light room classic with absolutely no adjustments.
It’s just going to be a learning curve on my part working with these files I suppose. Nikon seems easy to me but that’s what I’ve editing exclusively for years. I felt the same with Fuji files when I owned the xt3. It seemed like it took more time to get the file acceptable to my liking.
Here’s a pic of a fox squirrel I took this week with the A1 and I think it looks great but it took quiet a while to get there.
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