Tripods (add your own compliment/sarcasm) and the color red

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I don’t know what the actual numbers are, but the PMG is ever-so-slightly narrower than the RRS. It’s just enough to notice a difference in when the legs are in their default positions. But, again, it’s not a big deal. I almost never shoot with the legs in their default positions, and if I have any concerns, I just unlock one and reposition it so that the rig is stable. And so that it doesn’t seem like I am being overly negative about the PMG, I do like it’s twisting knobs better than RRS. I can certainly deploy it faster than I could the RRS, and of course, the PMG comes with spikes for the feet, whereas you have to buy those separately from RRS (and they’re not cheap).
Wow you are right about the feet. $96. So that makes the price for the similar Long 34MM tripod:

RRS = 1195+96= 1,291
PMG = 1,170

so $121 difference. With that I could buy the Rock Claws from RRS for the PMG.
 
Wow you are right about the feet. $96. So that makes the price for the similar Long 34MM tripod:

RRS = 1195+96= 1,291
PMG = 1,170

so $121 difference. With that I could buy the Rock Claws from RRS for the PMG.
Right. I have always been kind of offended at the price RRS charges for spikes.

The other advantage to PMG’s system is that you don’t need to remember to carry the spikes separately because they’re built into the feet. I think it would be pretty annoying to spend $100 on spikes and then not have them on the few occasions they’d be useful.

All that said, I have only found one situation where spikes worked meaningfully better than the regular tripod feet: soft, shifting sand. If sand won’t settle and keeps shifting due to the tide, spikes are the only way to go. I think others use spikes more often than I do, but I can almost always feet the regular feet to “grab” the terrain I’m in. So, while RRS’s approach is annoying, it’s far from a dealbreaker.
 
Right. I have always been kind of offended at the price RRS charges for spikes.

The other advantage to PMG’s system is that you don’t need to remember to carry the spikes separately because they’re built into the feet. I think it would be pretty annoying to spend $100 on spikes and then not have them on the few occasions they’d be useful.

All that said, I have only found one situation where spikes worked meaningfully better than the regular tripod feet: soft, shifting sand. If sand won’t settle and keeps shifting due to the tide, spikes are the only way to go. I think others use spikes more often than I do, but I can almost always feet the regular feet to “grab” the terrain I’m in. So, while RRS’s approach is annoying, it’s far from a dealbreaker.

Quick note about $100 spikes: TSA has mine...
 
Just wondering how important these Uber tripods are in a shutterless, mirrorless, light lens, incredible VR world?

Speaking for myself, a tripod is a necessity. For now, I’m still shooting a D850 and the 500mm AF-S II. In other words, the pre-VR version of the lens. I often hike about 3 miles while handholding this combo, plus a 1.4X TC. Sometimes I bring a tripod, but usually do not. So, even now, with a 10 lb rig, I don’t generally need a tripod. But I often shoot from a blind where a lot of movement would spook my subjects, and I also shoot landscapes. A tripod is essential for both of those. For me, then, it’s less about the weight, and more about the situation.
 
A beer sounds great. I'm more of a data and statistics guy, so this reflects the desire to use a formula.

Here is the detail for the two tripods you referenced. As you can see, I have both Center Column weights and my composite score. My score for stiffness had a maximum value of 2 because they are all pretty good, and a breakeven target of 1500 because stiffness was important. Height was based on a target height of 65 inches and a maximum score of 2.5. Weight was based on a target weight of 4 pounds so lighter tripods were penalized for less stability and robustness.
TripodPriceStiffness NmEHB Stiffness ScoreHeight inEHB Height scoreWeight lbsEHB Weight ScoreCtr Column ScoreTotal EHB rating
RRS TVC-34L$1,16016561.3167.82.434.53-1.2715892.48
ProMediaGear TR343L$85017831.5759.31.124.12-1.0615911.63

The ProMedia model evaluated was stiffer but shorter than the RRS which is why it was stiffer. It's relatively short so it would depend on terrain. The RRS is quite good, but is targeted for a big, long lens - a 600mm f/4 in my case. The RRS TVC-24L is probably better for most people, and while it is not as stiff it makes up for that by being 12 ounces lighter and the total score was about the same. If you are not using an f/4 500mm or 600mm lens or a 400mm f/2.8, it might be a better choice.

The other thing I saw was the weight differences were largely inconsequential. I was not going to compromise performance over 8 ounces.

I don't own anything from ProMedia Gear, but I have handled their gear and it is well made. Their designs are innovative and they intend to directly compete with RRS.
Eric,

Do you still feel that the Z600TC requires a 3 series tripod, given that the weight is lighter than the FL-E and much less than my old "G" version? I would like to move down to the TVC-24L as my "big" tripod from a TVC-34L for weight savings.
 
Eric,

Do you still feel that the Z600TC requires a 3 series tripod, given that the weight is lighter than the FL-E and much less than my old "G" version? I would like to move down to the TVC-24L as my "big" tripod from a TVC-34L for weight savings.
I realize you didn’t ask me, but a TVC-24L does have a load capacity of 40 lbs. The new 600mm f/4 only weighs 7.2 lbs. That leaves a lot of headroom.

I’d certainly be comfortable giving it a try (and would have if they’d been in stock anywhere the last time I bought a tripod), but it would be interesting to know if others have had bad experiences with a a long tele.
 
Eric,

Do you still feel that the Z600TC requires a 3 series tripod, given that the weight is lighter than the FL-E and much less than my old "G" version? I would like to move down to the TVC-24L as my "big" tripod from a TVC-34L for weight savings.
I used my 600mm f/4 on a 3 series Gitzo - about the same as the 2 series RRS. Most of the time it worked pretty well, but on occasion I did see visible flexing in the bottom leg sections. If you try to only partially extend the lowest leg sections, it will probably be okay with the TVC-24L. The weight difference between the RRS 2 series and 3 series is relatively small, so my preference would be the 3 series if possible. Now if you had the 800mm PF, the Series 2 would be fine.

TripodPriceStiffness NmEHB Stiffness ScoreHeight inEHB Height scoreWeight lbsEHB Weight ScoreCtr Column ScoreTotal EHB rating
RRS TVC-34L$1,16016561.3167.82.434.53-1.2715892.48
RRS TVC-24L$1,03011320.2666.12.173.75-0.1312712.31
 
In addition to Eric's comments, be aware that the 24L apex is smaller than the 34L and cannot take some accessories -- like a 75mm bowl adapter for a fluid head, for example, which may or may not be important. That said, the 24L is a light weight but very capable tripod, and performs as well as some series 3 tripods that I've compared it against. The thin lowest leg sections are the weakest link, for sure.

And speaking of the 800pf on the 24L...here it is on a Flexshooter mini, which works surprisingly well considering how light the tripod+head is.

IMG_0855.jpeg
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I can’t advise you on a specific RRS model - everyone’s needs are slightly different, but I can offer a few general suggestions, based on some less than ideal experience.

1. Don’t skimp on a tripod purchase - buy the very best one you can afford, to avoid acquiring progressively better ones over time and ultimately spending more money in the long run.
2. Buy a taller tripod than you think you need - longer is almost always better (unless you’re looking for a travel model). The extra height comes in very handy in hilly terrain.
3. If you get one with telescoping legs (as most of them are), try to find one that has O-rings at the joints. This helps keep water out of the inside when using in lakes and streams (I believe many RRS tripods are built this way).
4. Make sure the tripod has a leveling bubble.
5. Consider lightweight material, such as carbon fiber construction. You’ll appreciate the lighter weight on longer hikes.

Best of luck!
 
Late to the party.....

But - FWIW - I use the RRS TVC 24L. Although Steve Perry recommends the TVC 34.........I chose the 24L because of 2 things. I'm short and don't often fully extend the bottom leg. And another 3/4 lb was too much for me to deal with.

I used the TVC 24L with the 600mm E and now with the Z 600mm TC. LOVE my tripod for wildlife and architecture! It almost always goes with me whether I'm doing wildlife or walking a city. With proper technique and the weight reduction in the long teles over the last few years, I consider the 24L a great all-around tripod.

BTW - I don't think I will ever have to buy another tripod. Choose carefully and consider more than price...............
 
Late to the party.....

But - FWIW - I use the RRS TVC 24L. Although Steve Perry recommends the TVC 34.........I chose the 24L because of 2 things. I'm short and don't often fully extend the bottom leg. And another 3/4 lb was too much for me to deal with.

I used the TVC 24L with the 600mm E and now with the Z 600mm TC. LOVE my tripod for wildlife and architecture! It almost always goes with me whether I'm doing wildlife or walking a city. With proper technique and the weight reduction in the long teles over the last few years, I consider the 24L a great all-around tripod.

BTW - I don't think I will ever have to buy another tripod. Choose carefully and consider more than price...............
Thanks for your input.
 
Thanks for your input.
I will second Karen's thought of "Choose carefully and consider more than price"

I bought my first serious [series 3] Gitzo Carbon Fiber tripod in 1999 and I still have it and use it regularly. This is my go-to tripod with a lever release Arca Swiss ballhead.
I bought my 2nd [series 5] Gitzo in 2005 and use it regularly with my 500/4E. This is my HD tripod that also has an Arca Swiss ballhead with a Wimberley Sidekick (used to have the WImberley gimbal but the sidekick works almost as well and I can use the ballhead if desired)
I've never been tempted to even consider anything else.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
 
In a surprise to me RRS and I have been having a great dialog regarding their website. This thread has also been immensely helpful. One of the points made about the integrated spikes being included for the base price has me leaning towards PMG, as I sure want to keep track of the spikes for when I need them and why pay extra for them.

Also B&H will be adding the Flexshooter Mini with Clamp release to its website. It was the one of six Flexshooter models they didn't list.
 
I'm an avid collector :) and have many of the tripods on that (excellent) list. My favorite is the RRS Versa Mk2 TVC-34L. I actually owned the Mk1 but it failed the test (being run over by a backing 4 ton Toyota Land Cruiser). I have the Gitzo Systematic but I find the RRS to be better, simpler, and lighter.
I've got a Gitzo 55-series as my primary tripod, and am intrigued by your statement that the RRS is better than your Gitzo Systematic. As I am looking for a smaller and lighter tripod for a backup, can you give some details?
It’s a known fact that anything red goes faster...........
And gets more speeding tickets!? ;)
 
Here’s the redspeed view. Note it only comes in the modular apex not the compact apex.

IMG_1703.jpeg
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I've got a Gitzo 55-series as my primary tripod, and am intrigued by your statement that the RRS is better than your Gitzo Systematic. As I am looking for a smaller and lighter tripod for a backup, can you give some details?

And gets more speeding tickets!? ;)
I am not sure what it is. I just observe that when they are next to each other and I reach for one, it's invariably the RRS. I also have a good experience picking up the phone and having a leg section overnighted when I shattered one on a smaller RRS (my 200lb assistant stepped on it).
 
The Center Column list is pretty good, but it leaves out some popular mid-priced models such as Benro. I also found the ranking overly simplistic. Testing was always done at maximum height, which meant a short tripod had less vibration than a tall tripod and was ranked higher. For me, height is a priority and I could deploy a tall tripod at a lower height for less vibration, so my weights changed. The Center Column ranking also placed a premium on lower weight, but at some point lighter weight means compromises in functionality or durability. I also considered travel tripods with weighting for a lighter desired weight and shorter height. So I created my own ranking using some of their data and my priorities.

Here is my ranked list of full size tripods. I have only used the Gitzo and RRS tripods.
  1. FLM CP38-L4 II
  2. RRS TVC-34L
  3. RRS TVC-24L
  4. Feisol Elite CT-3472 M2
  5. Gitzo GT3533LS Sytematic
  6. RRS TVC-33
  7. Gitzo GT4533LS Systematic
  8. RRS TVC-33S
  9. ProMediaGear TR343L
  10. RRS TVC-23
  11. RRS TFC-33S
  12. Leofoto LN-404C
I also looked closely at tripod design and specific features. For example, the hub and leg castings on the Gitzo CF tripods are cast, and in my experience vulnerable to cracking or fracturing. The casting on the leg tubes are very thin. In contrast, RRS, ProMedia and others use CNC milling for the hub and other components. I also like the teardrop foot on the RRS tripods - particularly for rocks and streams. And I found customer service for replacement parts was much better with RRS than with Gitzo.

If you are shopping for a tripod or ballhead, be sure to check eBay and KEH for used stock. Used RRS gear is still expensive, but you can likely save 10-15% off retail. The gear is incredibly durable. My RRS ballhead is 15 years old and still works perfectly.
I few winters ago a friend and I were in northern Montana to photograph wildlife. There was several feet of snow. My friend pushed the legs of his Gitzo into the snow and one leg snapped off where it meant the hub. Found out later that Gitzo would not honor their warranty.
 
I am not sure what it is. I just observe that when they are next to each other and I reach for one, it's invariably the RRS. I also have a good experience picking up the phone and having a leg section overnighted when I shattered one on a smaller RRS (my 200lb assistant stepped on it).
Fair enough! Thank you.
 
I few winters ago a friend and I were in northern Montana to photograph wildlife. There was several feet of snow. My friend pushed the legs of his Gitzo into the snow and one leg snapped off where it meant the hub. Found out later that Gitzo would not honor their warranty.
Were there any reasons given as to why Gitzo didn't warranty it?
 
I have both a Gitzo 3 series and an RRS 24L and, since I haul my gear around in a collapsible garden cart these days can use them interchangeably. I carry two sandbags with straps and hang at least one of them from the hook in the tripod base. Either one of them does the job. I use an RRS leveling base on both tripods and find it indispensable. I own a ball head (RRS), geared head (branded Bogen but now sold by Manfrotto) and a gimbal but rarely use the ball head these days. All my cameras are fitted with RRS L brackets and I've adapted RRS lever-locks to the ball and geared heads.

If I had to start from scratch I'd buy the RRS 24 series legs, the RRS leveling base, a Manfrotto geared-head and a high quality gimbal (Jobu or
Wimberley). I'd use RRS lever locks on the heads and L brackets on the cameras.

My use-case is landscape, often stacks, and my subjects tend to be stationary. I use the gimbal rather than a ball head because it's easier to position for an old person with shakey hands and the geared head when I need precision. Your milage may vary.
 
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