Yes, that's a lot of assumptions. I would think a heavier lens would shake less while hand holding. Physics doesn't lie:
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I will start to tire much more quickly with an additional 5 lbs of glass
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Yes, that's a lot of assumptions. I would think a heavier lens would shake less while hand holding. Physics doesn't lie:
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Thanks for the replies so far. Weight is not too much of an issue, mostly concerned with performance and IQ with Z8/9 I shoot wildlife in the UK some birds (raptors) and mammals. We have foxes and badgers living in our woodland,so I'm very lucky.
I've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.If you think this, you've never handheld the two lenses in question, or done a comparison between a "big and heavy" lens and a "small and light" lens.
It isn't the lens that is shaking, it's the human that is shaking, and there's much more involved than a drastic oversimplification of mass vs acceleration.
If you have access to any of these lenses - go outside and do some testing. 600TC vs 600PF for example when shooting screech owls, I can consistently get sharp images at 1/6s handheld with the 600PF, but rarely get sharp images at 1/50 or slower with the 600TC. With a 600 F4E FL, that number would probably be 1/100 or faster.
Wotan is correct - the 600 F4E will have better subject isolation due to the shallower DOF, but a lot of commenters point at f6.3 lenses and say it must result in higher ISO, which isn't always true due to the differences in size and weight.
Rich was taking a bit more liberties with his assumptions, I meant shooting both wide open. so 600 F4E at f4 vs 600PF at 6.3. all else equal, you will be able to get the same level of sharpness at a lower ISO with the 600PF when handholding, despite the 1.33 stop loss in aperture.
Of course, if you shoot from a tripod - it matters much less and a monopod makes the difference between the two less than handholding, but not as drastic as the tripod.
and as for your "physics" comment and image taken out of context, look at examples of the affects of weight the further it is from your body. with a small, light lens you can keep it neatly up against you. with one of the big beasts, the center of gravity is further away, which induces more strain and shake.
it's why anyone can hold a mallet close to them without difficulty, but powerlifters challenge themselves to hold the same weight with their arms fully extended - and it's much more difficult.
torque is proportional to the distance from the weight to the point of suspension, your body. more force --> more ATP required --> more tiring -> more shaking
there are also many other factors that would make handholding the F4E more difficult. the existence of a larger hood which acts as a sail, the lesser VR/IS whatever, the older technology which means that lens is not built to be as well balanced as a 600PF/600TC, etc.
My man This is indeed also what I experienced when I did shoot the 600PF for the first time. That was on a Z8 and that compared to a Z9 with the S 600mm TC. The light combo was so weird to hold at first and found indeed myself at the beginning in a bit of trouble.I've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
I do a fair amount of archery shooting, so I know that weight makes a huge difference in how 'shaky' we tend to be when aiming. A lighter bow at full draw will always tend to be more erratic when aiming than a heavier bow in my experience. Weight displacement also has a huge role as you'll notice when watching Olympic archers and their long weighted stabilizers.
If the rumoured up to about 33% Nikon new price fall on "exotic" F mount lenses starts on the rumoured date of 29th this month - new and second hand prices will fall significantly.Hi Steve, I am considering a Nikon 600mm f4E FL ED VR AF-S Lens with adapter to use on my Z9
Very true; but when I had children two years old, I couldn't afford to purchase any 600 mm focal length lens.it is nice to be young. Some of us are old enough to have 2 years as grand kids if not great grand kids
I'd also venture to say that "truly new" copies of these lenses will be much more difficult to find after they are on sale for such discounts.If the rumoured up to about 33% Nikon new price fall on "exotic" F mount lenses starts on the rumoured date of 29th this month - new and second hand prices will fall significantly.
I’m not sure the stop loss is significant for everyone…but it’s really a trade off for the weight and cost gains the PF provides. And while I don’t have a 600/4 to test it myself…the lens blur that is in LR now does a pretty good job and appears to cause the focus to fall off gradually just as a real lens would do. For some people…the heavier f4 lens is worth it..others maybe not.You lose 1 1/3 stops of aperture going from the 600 f4 to the 600 f6.3 pf. That is a significant deficit.
One of the signal beauties of these big lenses is the ability to separate subject from background. You don’t have the same ability with the 600 pf.
In addition if you start using teleconverters on these lenses the aperture gap becomes worse. A 1.4x tc on the 600 pf pushes you out to f9, heaven help you use the 2x for then you are out at f13. With the f4 lens adding the 1.4 tc has you at f5.6.
If you can deal with the weight you are going to have better results with the 600 f4.
I don’t currently have one of those big beauties but I do plan to go there one day. I recently got a taste of what it must be like because I recently acquired the 135mm f1.8 Plena. I have seen what creamy dreamy background looks like with a tack sharp subject and it is amazing how that can be exploited creatively.
We had a Sony TC do that in Africa in April and literally dropped the A1 into the mud from 6 or 7 feet off the ground. Fortunately she had a second body and the 600/4 was undamaged once she got the remains of the TC off the rear of the lens.One of the reasons why I would recommend going with the Z lenses is because one does not need to use the FTZ adaptor. Having less number of contacts is always good especially if you plan to add a TC too. I have seen a few cases where the FTZ adaptor has completely broken into 2 pieces with heavier prime lenses. Also in dusty/dry conditions, the AF can suffer if you have dust on the contacts which is not so common when the lens is mounted on the camera without the FTZ ( this is my personal experience using the 500F4 with Z8)
I don't have kids, but when I was that age, I had just started my career. I took a part time job to affords $1,500 camera lenses, not $5-6,000 ones. I was able to purchase a 500 F/4 because I won a major award (extra bonus) at work.Very true; but when I had children two years old, I couldn't afford to purchase any 600 mm focal length lens.
I braved the smoke this morning and went out birding for the first time with my Holdfast Money Maker dual harness, thanks for the tip, Z9 w/800 f/6.3 on the right and Z9 with Tamron z mount 150-500 on the left. Horrible light and the smoke was so bad it was tasty. I was only out there a little over an hour and as the smoke was joined by fine ash particles I walked back home but the money maker worked great. I ordered a Holdfast solo today.I think the 800 pf is better for birds than the 600 pf. I had all three mid price long primes at one point, 400 f4.5 600 pf and 800 pf. I ended up selling the 600 because the combo of 800 and 400 worked better for me.
i can carry both the 400 and 800 on a Holdfast dual strap. Since i only lift either lens to shoot I can manage both handheld. A really good carrying strap setup makes all the difference.
What lens?I can not talk or show anything re the 600mm F/4, however, this is an image I shot at Kennedy Space Center. Distance from tripod to launch pad 2 .25 miles
1/1250, F/8 ISO 250 Body Z-8 mounted on Gitzo Tripod Uncropped
Even though I can afford nice, expensive lenses, it doesn't mean that I should be buying them. Every time I do make a big photo purchase, it delays my retirement a few months.I don't have kids, but when I was that age, I had just started my career. I took a part time job to affords $1,500 camera lenses, not $5-6,000 ones. I was able to purchase a 500 F/4 because I won a major award (extra bonus) at work.
I still use the 600mm f4 AFS but its heavy and I'd trade it for a 600 PF in a minute - except I paid a small ransom for it ...Hi Steve, I am considering a Nikon 600mm f4E FL ED VR AF-S Lens with adapter to use on my Z9 and Z8, does anyone have experience of this combination, or would I be better losing the f4 advantage and go with the Nikon Z600 f6.3 PF. I would appreciate your thoughts on image quality and usability etc.
RENT a F6.3 lens for the week end, all you want to know will be yours for the picking. Its a low cost for a serious matter.Hi Steve, I am considering a Nikon 600mm f4E FL ED VR AF-S Lens with adapter to use on my Z9 and Z8, does anyone have experience of this combination, or would I be better losing the f4 advantage and go with the Nikon Z600 f6.3 PF. I would appreciate your thoughts on image quality and usability etc.
I had the 600 FL with the Z9, but since have sold it. Not that the F mount was bad, but I found the hassle of using it was problematic. First there is carrying the adapter, and having to mount, unmount it all the time, then if you want to use a TC the extention becomes uncomfortably long. I now have both the 600 f6.3, and 600 TC. My thoughts were to use the 600 f6.3 for walk around, and the 600 TC under more limited conditions. Now that I have experience with both I have to say that I use the 600 TC most of the time even for a walk around lens. I just use a monopod with a RRS MH-01 head, unless I just physically can't make it work. Between the 600 FL, and 600 f6.3 I would go with the 600 f6.3. The image quality is excellent, its small/light weight makes it an excellent walk around lens without the hassle of trying to remember which pocket you put the FTZ adapter in. The 600 FL is a bit of an unbalanced monster.Hi Steve, I am considering a Nikon 600mm f4E FL ED VR AF-S Lens with adapter to use on my Z9 and Z8, does anyone have experience of this combination, or would I be better losing the f4 advantage and go with the Nikon Z600 f6.3 PF. I would appreciate your thoughts on image quality and usability etc.
As i got close to retirement I realized that they amount i saved had a de minimis impact upon my retirement savings. Growth in my retirement account came from doing well in my investments - just run a simple scenario - say retirement account is $500,000 and you make 10%. That is $50,000. Saving an extra $5,000 only changes retirement net worth by 1%, the same as if your return from 9% to 10%.Even though I can afford nice, expensive lenses, it doesn't mean that I should be buying them. Every time I do make a big photo purchase, it delays my retirement a few months.
I hear you, but I haven't done so well. Real estate has killed me.As i got close to retirement I realized that they amount i saved had a de minimis impact upon my retirement savings. Growth in my retirement account came from doing well in my investments - just run a simple scenario - say retirement account is $500,000 and you make 10%. That is $50,000. Saving an extra $5,000 only changes retirement net worth by 1%, the same as if your return from 9% to 10%.