everytime I try to outdo the market, i am outdone. So I stick with index funds. At least I am not doing any poorer than the market (perhaps no better).I hear you, but I haven't done so well. Real estate has killed me.
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everytime I try to outdo the market, i am outdone. So I stick with index funds. At least I am not doing any poorer than the market (perhaps no better).I hear you, but I haven't done so well. Real estate has killed me.
Sunk cost. You will never get your money back and the lens will only go down in value so may be best to bite the bullet, hold your nose, and accept your lose and then enjoy the 600 PFI still use the 600mm f4 AFS but its heavy and I'd trade it for a 600 PF in a minute - except I paid a small ransom for it ...
You can always make more money, you cant make more time lost, once its gone its gone.Sunk cost. You will never get your money back and the lens will only go down in value so may be best to bite the bullet, hold your nose, and accept your lose and then enjoy the 600 PF
Could it be that's why Leica in the old days before IBIS made their cameras out of a solid brass ingotI've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
I do a fair amount of archery shooting, so I know that weight makes a huge difference in how 'shaky' we tend to be when aiming. A lighter bow at full draw will always tend to be more erratic when aiming than a heavier bow in my experience. Weight displacement also has a huge role as you'll notice when watching Olympic archers and their long weighted stabilizers.
What a ridiculous statement!I've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
He already decided, posted a while ago. Got the f/4. I have an old 500mm f/4 which I never use due to the weight. So recently got the 600mm PF f/6.3 and have been loving it. Often use it with the 1.4TC. One example:It will be interesting as to what the original post ends up with.
A lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I seeIt depends a little on what you use it for, I for one prefer the 600 f/4 FL
Welcome to BCGA lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I see
Using the 600E for short periods is not a big problem if you have some trainingA lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I see