everytime I try to outdo the market, i am outdone. So I stick with index funds. At least I am not doing any poorer than the market (perhaps no better).I hear you, but I haven't done so well. Real estate has killed me.
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everytime I try to outdo the market, i am outdone. So I stick with index funds. At least I am not doing any poorer than the market (perhaps no better).I hear you, but I haven't done so well. Real estate has killed me.
Sunk cost. You will never get your money back and the lens will only go down in value so may be best to bite the bullet, hold your nose, and accept your lose and then enjoy the 600 PFI still use the 600mm f4 AFS but its heavy and I'd trade it for a 600 PF in a minute - except I paid a small ransom for it ...![]()
You can always make more money, you cant make more time lost, once its gone its gone.Sunk cost. You will never get your money back and the lens will only go down in value so may be best to bite the bullet, hold your nose, and accept your lose and then enjoy the 600 PF
Could it be that's why Leica in the old days before IBIS made their cameras out of a solid brass ingotI've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
I do a fair amount of archery shooting, so I know that weight makes a huge difference in how 'shaky' we tend to be when aiming. A lighter bow at full draw will always tend to be more erratic when aiming than a heavier bow in my experience. Weight displacement also has a huge role as you'll notice when watching Olympic archers and their long weighted stabilizers.
What a ridiculous statement!I've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
He already decided, posted a while ago. Got the f/4. I have an old 500mm f/4 which I never use due to the weight. So recently got the 600mm PF f/6.3 and have been loving it. Often use it with the 1.4TC. One example:It will be interesting as to what the original post ends up with.
A lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I seeIt depends a little on what you use it for, I for one prefer the 600 f/4 FL
Welcome to BCGA lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I see![]()
Using the 600E for short periods is not a big problem if you have some trainingA lot of actual forest birding in South America and Asia (lot of walking, hiking), and a little bit of owl photography here in Canada. I am a bird lister and like to get best the possible pictures of a bird I see![]()
Yup ... target rifles are barrel heavy for a reason.I've had plenty of experience with long glass, and I'll stick by my statement that you can hold a heavier lens more steady than a lighter one. I'm not talking about for minutes at a time, but more like picking the lens up, finding target, and snapping several bursts...so like 20 to 30 seconds. Obviously, your arm will wear out sooner with f/4 glass over long durations, but I'm specifically talking about quick bursts.
I do a fair amount of archery shooting, so I know that weight makes a huge difference in how 'shaky' we tend to be when aiming. A lighter bow at full draw will always tend to be more erratic when aiming than a heavier bow in my experience. Weight displacement also has a huge role as you'll notice when watching Olympic archers and their long weighted stabilizers.
small point of correction the Z600 (pf) is f/6.3 not f/5.6.Could it be that's why Leica in the old days before IBIS made their cameras out of a solid brass ingot
so it weighs a tonne in order to provide better stabilization hand held ?
I to find i can hand hold the Z9 with a 70-200 fl more stable than if the lens was on a D7100 or Df.
In fact i always use a light mono pod stick where and whenever possible, and at times i shorten it right up, have it attached to the lens foot so i can in its shortened state angle it slightly forward, it adds to stabilization, much like the stabilizers on a Bow.
"Enhanced Balance: Bow stabilizers add weight to the front end of the bow, improving its balance and reducing the tendency for the bow to tip forward during the aiming process. This added stability helps archers hold steady while aiming and executing their shots"
Of course 3 D tracking and IBIS kicks in here in many cases but not all situations are practical.
Larger lenses or even lighter lenses with frequency of use determines muscle toning and memory and of course strength but that's drilling down a little too far.
As people age often weight and stabilization becomes progressively a greater issue.
I am lucky I can use a Z9 with a 24-70 2.8 G hand held with one hand on an extended arm and nail what i need easily if want to as i have a very strong grip and good strength so it’s not an issue.
My unloading the Z9 for a Z8 hopefully soon a Z7III is due to not only doing different things now but mainly reducing cumulative weight for when doing 4 or 5 day hikes or extended traveling, its the overall weight and size that is the consideration for now, till things chnage again LOL.
As to the 600 F4 FL versus the 600 F5.6 PF, the decision is best made using before buying, so rent first, if the rental company is competitive they will offset the rental against the purchase price anyway.
The 600 F5.6 PF is optically in good light somewhat on the heels of the 600 TC version, again a question is if you shoot mostly all at F7.1 or F10 then its the F6.3 PF is a no brainier, if you’re like me and shoot only at F2.8 on a 300mm prime or F4 no more than F5.6 on a 600 F4 then your only consideration is size and weight.
Its all very personal, the newer cameras are moving from 5 stops to 8 stops IBIS, and low light focus from 3 stops to 5 stops, meaning ISO outcomes on a 600 PF should with slower shutter speeds needed actually narrow the gap to teh F4 around the ISO demand, so its Bokah at F4 that is now on the table, all these things will become tangibly clear using before buying...........
Money is like the rain it comes and goes, Time doesn't.
Only an opinion
July 26, 2024 #20It will be interesting as to what the original post ends up with.
The heavier the camera the more stability ...small point of correction the Z600 (pf) is f/6.3 not f/5.6.
Was this supposed to be a reply to a different comment?The heavier the camera the more stability ...
Interestingly, I recently did an informal survey of Brad's actual lens use after his most recent gallery posts, and was surprised to find a fairly even split between the 400mm TC, the 600mm PF, and the 800mm PF. There were zero images posted that were captured with the 600mm TC. That data though could just be a reflection of the lenses he chose to bring on his most recent trips - which is also interesting.The 600 PF is the quintessential Commando Kit telephoto and ideal for hiking Peripatetic Photography. There's arguably no better birder's telephoto, except the 800 PF. The image quality is judged to be extremely good and in the tier of exotic quality.
If the 600 PF is entirely a factory line assembled lens this speaks volumes for the quality of Nikon's assembly and quality control.... Considering how each E FL exotic is hand assembled, with careful quality checking by expert technicians in Tokyo; although not confirmed, this probably also applies to the manufacturing of S line 400 TC and 600 TC.
Canadian Pro, Brad Hill has written screes in his blog about most of the telephoto Nikkors, although he doesn't use 600 often apparently.
I used to drill and fill stocks with lead to make them heavier. Less recoil too!Yup ... target rifles are barrel heavy for a reason.
I started "shooting" with barrel heavy target rifles when I was 12 and I have and do shoot hand held, target rifle style, with barrel heavy lenses Tamron 150-600 G2n (extended out to 600) , Nkon 200-500, Sigma 150-600 sport and 60-600 sport, Nikon 600 f/4E, Nikon Z800 f/6.3 and now Nikon Z600 f/4 TC. I have a Nikon Z600 f/6.3 and it has it's place on my lighter Z6III but takes more care to hold steady than my Z600 f/4 TC on my Z9.