I have not tried moon shots. I see there are several guides online but I was wondering what were your camera settings. May I ask you what they were? Do you usually shoot the moon low or high in the sky?
If you would like to post, you'll need to register. Note that if you have a BCG store account, you'll need a new, separate account here (we keep the two sites separate for security purposes).
I have not tried moon shots. I see there are several guides online but I was wondering what were your camera settings. May I ask you what they were? Do you usually shoot the moon low or high in the sky?
I haven't shot it enough to say I have a norm. But I'm fundamentally lazy so I shoot it handheld and when I've done it seems to always work out to a reasonably comfortable angle. For settings I read somewhere once to simply use sunny 16 rule because the sun it being lit by clear sunlight and that's what you're shooting. In practice I find about a stop over sunny 16 is necessary. This was shot at 1/800, f6.3, ISO200 and I raised it half a stop in post. Also IMO shooting it on the quarters/crescents is more interesting than the full moon due to the angular lighting. And of course atmospheric conditions have a huge effect. So shooting right after passage of a cold front tends to give the clearest sky. And waiting a good while after sunset to there is less chance of thermal effects helps also.I have not tried moon shots. I see there are several guides online but I was wondering what were your camera settings. May I ask you what they were? Do you usually shoot the moon low or high in the sky?
I've seem multiple posts here and elsewhere mentioning this as an issue. Are you shooting form a blind/hide? How/why so close? Certainly if that's a problem there's no need to struggle with any longer focal length than necessary.After the last 2 months of shooting songbirds, I’m coming to the conclusion that this isn’t the best lens for this application. Too much reach, too distant MFD, it’s proving to be too much lens for closer up small subjects....
What AF mode/area do you use. I don't think that's a lens specific issue.... Add to that, for whatever reason, I’m missing tons of easy shots due to the same old AF weaknesses that mirrorless exhibits: the propensity to completely miss a subject if it’s slightly OOF, and instead grab the background.
It does indeed take some mental re-calibration to judge distances when setting up etc.Maybe it’s because I just grew so accustomed to the 500PF, and getting closer to birds, that this nautical mile of MFD is just not jiving with how I shoot. I just don’t “see” in 800mm like I thought I did, I’m not a long range sniper.
There's no getting around that. It's not a lens to haul along on casual outings.Finally, I used to take the 500PF on regular family trips, it was so small and portable, I could be anywhere and bird. I don’t see this being realistic with the 800, and I miss that portability.
So, I’m adding the 400 4.5 + 1.4 TC to the lineup to see if it can take the place of my departed 500PF, and get me back on track with how I like to shoot. Seeing as Spring migration should be starting soon, it’ll be a great test to see if it, or the 800, turns in the winning performance.
So it’s not too often I’m shooting massively long distances, more often than not I’m in the woods on a path, at the edge of the woods in, or along a stream. Generally, scope out an area and see if there’s any activity, and then try to hide nearby (behind a tree, bush, etc) and wait for birds to happen by. Think: a boardwalk in a swamp/marsh, or a wooded path along a stream (Magee Marsh comes to mind exactly: warblers in woods, close up).I've seem multiple posts here and elsewhere mentioning this as an issue. Are you shooting form a blind/hide? How/why so close? Certainly if that's a problem there's no need to struggle with any longer focal length than necessary.
What AF mode/area do you use. I don't think that's a lens specific issue.
It does indeed take some mental re-calibration to judge distances when setting up etc.
There's no getting around that. It's not a lens to haul along on casual outings.
Adjusting to 800mm is certainly not trivial. At the end of the day it boils down to whether it's the right tool for the job. We each have to define "right tool" for our given subjects/style.
Polar bears are big, but the question is how close they will be and what other subjects might you see that are smaller (e.g., Arctic foxes).I’m going to Svalbard in July. I’m wondering about just using my z70-200 or rentInag the z400 f4.5. I think the 809 might be too long, I think seals and polar bears. Arctic birds maybe,
thank you!Polar bears are big, but the question is how close they will be and what other subjects might you see that are smaller (e.g., Arctic foxes).
I was at Seal River Heritage Lodge on Hudson Bay north of Churchill last November. We photographed polar bears, Arctic foxes, red foxes, ptarmigan, ermine, snow buntings, Northern Lights and scenics of Hudson Bay. For telephotos, I brought my Z 100-400 and 500 mm PF, along with the Z and F 1.4x TCs. I carried two bodies — the Z 100-400 on a Z9 (with or without a TC, depending on light levels) and the 500 mm PF on a Z7II (with or without a TC depending on light levels). We photographed from protected areas on the lodge grounds and on guided hikes near the lodge. While hiking, we encountered adult polar bears as close as 25 feet. They are huge at that distance and I used the Z 100-400 for those shots and was glad to be able to zoom out wider. At other times the bears were farther away and I used the 500 mm PF and TC — I remember a couple of sparring matches between bears at a distance where I used the 500 mm PF plus 1.4x TCIII and still cropped the images.
I also took a lot of photos of Arctic foxes and ptarmigan. They are much smaller than polar bears, even when they were closer, so many (although not all) of those photos were with the 500 mm PF and often a TC.
If I went back to Seal River, I would bring the 800 mm PF, at least if I could get it there given weight and space limits. I think it would be useful if I could get it there. The trip leader recommended against my bringing the Z 800 mm PF. But he had a Canon 600 mm f4 along (and used it) that was larger and heavier than the 800 mm PF and he used a 1.4x TC with it at times.
Your Z 70-200 with a Z 2x TC will be pretty close to the Z 100-400, although with the Z 100-400, you can go to 140-560 with the Z 1.4x TC (which I did frequently). If you rent the Z 400 f4.5, you can add the Z 1.4x TC and have 560 mm f6.3 or the 2x Z TC and have an 800 mm f9. I don’t have this lens, but Thom Hogan has noted that this is a very useable way to get 800 mm. And relatively small and light.
I do not know how close you will get to polar bears and other smaller subjects in Svalbard and how often you will be close versus farther way. I also do not know what weight and space limits you have to deal with. Your trip leaders may have some information on this. But I would certainly expect that focal lengths of 400 mm and more would be useful. I’m going to Greenland in the fall and we may see polar bears, walruses, and other creatures. While I have not discussed it with the trip leader yet, I am thinking I will bring the Z 800 mm PF. For various reasons, we will not have particularly tight weight and space limits on the trip.
If you were to rent a Z 800 mm PF or a Z 400 f4.5 with a Z 2x TC to get to 800 mm, I’d recommend getting it a bit early to do some practice at 800 mm before the trip.
As with DSLRs it's a challenge for some AF modes. For perched/stationary birds I have the DISP button(Z9) programmed to custom area AF set up as a single point. Then I'll have WA small or large(depending on situation) set to activate with the AF-ON button. If there are issues with obstructions etc I'll hit the DISP button until I get AF lock then switch to the AF-ON button and let the eye detection do its thing. It works well and is very quick....Songbirds, like warblers, vireos, kinglets, etc, are what I’m going for, and they mostly exist in brushy, branchy environs, which makes it a challenge for the mirrorless AF..
If DOF with the 800 seems flatter/narrower then you must be cropping a good bit when using the 500. For a given f stop if the subject fills the frame the DOF is the same regardless of focal length. So if you fill the frame with the subject when shooting the 500pf wide open at f5.6 then DOF is actually slightly flatter/narrower than the same field of view with the 800 6.3.... I think perhaps the thin DOF of the 800 exacerbates the issue even more...
Exactly the sort of environs I’m shooting in, and once the AF can see the bird, it works flawlessly, able to pick out bird eyes and stick to it like a vice. Trying to get the AF into the bird in the first place, is the challenge. My D500 was so much better at this than every ML camera I’ve tried.I rely on a similar Custom setup. CA1*1+AFOn is set on Fn2. If the AF discombobulates (rarely these days, at least on my subjects), focus-peaking is the great enabler to get back on the subject, or AF Recall on the Lens-Fn buttons. As mentioned a few times on BCG, the Custom Group Area 1*1 is excellent, and I've been relying on it soon after FW 2.0 arrived.
I find the Z9 S-R has improved significantly in Firmware v3.0. Nikon has clearly continued intensive training of the Deeplearning algorithms undergirding the Subject-Recognition....their supercomputing clusters must have been burning barrels of the proverbial midnight oil for months last year, crunching Bayesian priors etc. The field of shape recognition models in Deeplearning is very active in inventing new statistical solutions to teach software "identity subspaces", which account for shape variation (important in face recogntion software). Obviously, biodiversity is rich in such challenges: pertinently the morphologies of the vertebrate eye!
Anyways, however Nikon's achieved this, their S-R is definitely become much stickier, and impressively so (not that there was much wrong with SR in most cases, previously IME.) So much so, I recently dropped assigning Subject-Recognition ON/OFF option in Recall Shooting Functions (RSF) Hold. Like my D6, it's now set in a better role for unexpected action surprises.
These examples are screen grabs from NXStudio - to show the AF point. All taken this morning with the 800 PF. These Little Rush Warblers are extremely furtive. They typically call deep within reedbeds, but this chap is enjoying the sun after much rain: preening and warming up.
Subject distance is close to the MFD, within 8m
View attachment 57608
View attachment 57609
Subject distance is approx. 8m
View attachment 57610
View attachment 57607
Exactly the sort of environs I’m shooting in, and once the AF can see the bird, it works flawlessly, able to pick out bird eyes and stick to it like a vice. Trying to get the AF into the bird in the first place, is the challenge. My D500 was so much better at this than every ML camera I’ve tried.
One thing that does seem to be different with DSLR is that in these situations when focus place is so far out that everything is just a blur the DSLR would run focus from near to far stop of the lens back and forth searching. The Z9 doesn't do this. It must be programmed to do nothing when there is no discernable contrast across the sensor. In those cases I will tap the AF-ON button which works most times. But failing that yes the only solution is manual override to "wake it up". It doesn't happen often buy I'm only occasionally shooting those situations close to MFD.AF setup is generally the same: Custom 1x1 set to AF-On, Single Point set to Fn1, and 3D set to Shutter Release. Also have Dynamic Small set to Fn2, so all sorts of AF cases to get me out of AF “discombobulations”, which with this lens/body is a regular occurrence. Like I mentioned, once the focus plane is generally in the neighborhood of the bird, there’s no problem, the setup is amazing, but anytime I’m dealing with a “blob” of OOF bird, this thing fails like crazy. It’s a let down that I have to hope and pray every time that the camera will decide to do what I want.
I’ve resorted to twisting the MF ring back to MFD prior to every single AF attempt, and guess I will need to start incorporating the focus distance recall button into the workflow. This puts a damper on an otherwise marvelous set of camera gear.
I should get an Atomos to record it so I don't have to keep failing at trying to describe it haha. This isn't an issue w/ just the Z9, it's been the challenge w/ ML AF from the beginning; it's definitely better than the first ML camera I tried (EOS R), but it's disappointing to see that it's still affecting the cutting edge systems available today. I guess the question is: is it something I can overcome and live with, or would it just be easier to revert back to a DSLR until the day comes when the problem is fixed? Hard to give up all the amazing tech like Subject Detect & Eye AF and silent shooting.I'm trying to think what else could be your problem, as IME the 800 PF is excellent (at subject distances beyond the MFD, obviously). The tighter FoV can make it a struggle sometimes to find and frame the subject (!), which is why I rely on 'Two-Eyed Shooting'.
For small brown birds in clutter, I do not find a significant difference between the 500 PF on D6 and Z9, except the Z9 eye recognition has a higher hit rate. I will have to recheck this as it's now some weeks back I deliberately compared the two cameras on the same lens.
On a DSLR, in clutter (reeds, brush) I use single-point in the DSLR, and the D6 also has Custom Area Group although this cannot be 1*1, so I use 5*1 or 7*1 Vertical in tandem with Single-Point. Otherwise, Group AF mode should work fairly well ona D500 or D850.
That's what I'm suspecting is at play, along w/ the super thin DOF you deal w/ at 800mm. Might be something we'll just have to live with and be aware of when encountering these types of situations. Again, it wasn't nearly as bad w/ the adapted 500PF, so I'm really hoping the 400 4.5 doesn't exhibit it as bad either.One thing that does seem to be different with DSLR is that in these situations when focus place is so far out that everything is just a blur the DSLR would run focus from near to far stop of the lens back and forth searching. The Z9 doesn't do this. It must be programmed to do nothing when there is no discernable contrast across the sensor. In those cases I will tap the AF-ON button which works most times. But failing that yes the only solution is manual override to "wake it up". It doesn't happen often buy I'm only occasionally shooting those situations close to MFD.
sorry, I was editing my latest, when you replied!I should get an Atomos to record it so I don't have to keep failing at trying to describe it haha. This isn't an issue w/ just the Z9, it's been the challenge w/ ML AF from the beginning; it's definitely better than the first ML camera I tried (EOS R), but it's disappointing to see that it's still affecting the cutting edge systems available today. I guess the question is: is it something I can overcome and live with, or would it just be easier to revert back to a DSLR until the day comes when the problem is fixed? Hard to give up all the amazing tech like Subject Detect & Eye AF and silent shooting.
I'd love to have tried a D6, the pinnacle of DSLR AF. If my experiment w/ the 400 4.5 doesn't yield any better results, I think I just might...
That's what I'm suspecting is at play, along w/ the super thin DOF you deal w/ at 800mm. Might be something we'll just have to live with and be aware of when encountering these types of situations. Again, it wasn't nearly as bad w/ the adapted 500PF, so I'm really hoping the 400 4.5 doesn't exhibit it as bad either.
For the benefit of others who may read this thread I'll point out again that when viewing the subject the same size in the viewfinder(IOW the same field of view) and shooting the same f-stop the DOF will be the same regardless of focal length. If comparing the Z9/800mm to D500/500mm then yes there is a difference due to the crop factor....along w/ the super thin DOF you deal w/ at 800mm...
To be honest, as much as I applaud Nikon for making the 800PF, as you may know I never was after an 800mm lens, but much more a 600mm lens. 800mm is, well, complicated. It can no doubt produce great images, but there is something about 800mm that makes me feel I would only use it with special intent.That makes sense, but let's say I'm stationary w/ both lenses, and a bird lands 20 feet away, the 800 is going to have shallower DOF than the 500PF, right? Generally, birds have a certain safe-distance they keep from you, so most of the time I'm not able to get the bird the same size in the VF.
Z9/500mm f/5.6 at 20ft, DOF = 1.8"
Z9/800mm f/6.3 at 20ft, DOF = 3/4"
I've no idea if this DOF discussion is contributing to the AF foibles or not. Thinking about it over the past few weeks, what I can conclude (obviously) is that whichever works best for the shooter, is the one you go with, and in my particular case, 800mm just isn't working out like I thought it would, and I'll need to make adjustments to how I go about employing it in my pursuits.
Biodiversity presents in an almost infinite range of size but also habits and other behaviours, including interspecific interactions; there are incredible trends and differences between regions ie biomes, let alone continents....To be honest, as much as I applaud Nikon for making the 800PF, as you may know I never was after an 800mm lens, but much more a 600mm lens. 800mm is, well, complicated. It can no doubt produce great images, but there is something about 800mm that makes me feel I would only use it with special intent.
I just got the 1.4TC for the Sony 600GM, but I pondered whether to get it at all. I did in the end for the small songbirds at spring migration, singing in distant shrubs, and flying off as soon as you get within 60ft.
I wished for a Nikon 600mm f5.6PF for years, but instead they gave us 800mm. I would be shooting Nikon 100% if a Z600mm f5.6PF would have materialized, simply because 600mm is my focal length. Many small reasons leading up to that. 500mm always felt short. Also, f5.6 has always been something of a limit for AF to truly work responsively and reliably in many scenarios.
Cross-Type sensors are the dominant factor that determine AF reliability, although MILC autofocus systems are much less constrained by the f5.6/f8 restrictions compared to DSLR AF.Regarding your struggle with AF: when I close down the Sony 600mm to f6.3, AF also starts to lose the magic that it has at f4-f5
I know mirrorless AF is a different concept, but it is still Phase AF, and the larger the aperture, the better it works.
Nikon 2018 patents registered before launch of the 500 PF also include a 400 and 600 versions. All f5.6.Perhaps Nikon should still add a Z600mm f5.6 to their line up, it would truly make it "complete" for birding/wildlife at least.
I have purchased this lens. The light weight makes it eminently hand holdable. It takes the the Z 1.4 TC well, which gives a remarkable 1120mm at F/9. The one drawback is the bokeh. While Steve says it is good, it is not great and, of course, not as good as the 600mm F/4 PF. Overall, I am quite pleased, and it has become my go to for walking around and looking for little birds.Nikon just announced their new 800mm PF and my extensive first-look review for wildlife photographers is ready to go!
In this first-look video, I'll answer all the burning questions you have about the 800PF. We'll talk about the specifications, the controls, features, technology, ergonomics, sharpness, rendering, autofocus, VR performance, how hand-holdable it is, how it handles in the field, and so much more! If you want the best 800PF review for wildlife photography, this is it!
Plus, I'll pass along all of my insights, thoughts, and recommendations along the way!
Check out the video below:
Can you help?
If you enjoyed the video, please share it with your Nikon friends - and feel free to pass it on any camera forums or groups who may enjoy it. Thank you so much!
PS - I also want to apologize. I was not able to perform any sniff, lick, or "wind tunnel" tests with this lens. Sadly, I also forgot to curl it like a dumbbell. Oh, the missed opportunities!