I print on metal in 11-14 format and use a standoff. I am slowly replacing my underwater shots that either I printed and used a glass-over magnate mount (no frame) or Bay Photo printed with a paper 1/2" box (no frame). I have lights on all photographs and that makes a huge difference.
Displaying your printed photos
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GedeonD500
Active member
I think the reply has to do with an "outside the photo" frame made of wood or metal and glass.
I print on a Canon Pro 100 up to 13x19 for things I want in an album, for home framing of my "trophy" sparrows etc., I also print for camera club "print night" and to have mounted on foam core for display at our fair.
I have a couple of pieces still on canvas but now print exclusively on metal with McKenna Pro for things I display in a gallery setting or on my walls at home. I only display in a gallery setting a couple of times a year and the next scheduled for October my be my last. I will be 75 in a few months and I will probably "retire" from selling even a little and get my amateur sr. citizen standing back at our fair (takes 2 years of nothing up for sale).
I have a couple of pieces still on canvas but now print exclusively on metal with McKenna Pro for things I display in a gallery setting or on my walls at home. I only display in a gallery setting a couple of times a year and the next scheduled for October my be my last. I will be 75 in a few months and I will probably "retire" from selling even a little and get my amateur sr. citizen standing back at our fair (takes 2 years of nothing up for sale).
Roy
Well-known member
I've only recently evolved from product to wildlife photography.
I do like a A3 or bigger print but A4 frames are easy to change.
The image shouldn't touch the glass.
If you want your images to last then get printed on something like fuji crystal archive paper and dont leave them in direct sunlight ...
O
Well-known member
I use 300 gsm Hahnemühle Watercolour fine art pure rag paper.
Printed on Rolland commercial lab printer.
Pure Japanese fine art pigment ink.
Museum grade Non reflective ART glass that has 95% uv resistance.
Gator board backing.
Fine art Rag mat board mount surround.
usually 40x 35mm soft white timber molding.
or
i use fine art canvas on a timber stretcher and timber edge 5mm face by 50mm side depth.
Or
the Standouts style if its a cheap non fine artwork.
Only an opinion
Printed on Rolland commercial lab printer.
Pure Japanese fine art pigment ink.
Museum grade Non reflective ART glass that has 95% uv resistance.
Gator board backing.
Fine art Rag mat board mount surround.
usually 40x 35mm soft white timber molding.
or
i use fine art canvas on a timber stretcher and timber edge 5mm face by 50mm side depth.
Or
the Standouts style if its a cheap non fine artwork.
Only an opinion
O
Well-known member
Never glue it down, there is a barrier rag sheet behind the print and mat board on the front, i use two archival paper hinges at the top of the print edge in about 150mm from the edge so the sheets can expand and contract without corrugating.
The print is removable by folding back the mat board mount, cutting the 50mm wide paper hinges.
eaj101
Well-known member
Interesting ideas. I stick with 'traditional' frame display, not caring for the effect of metal, canvas, or other non-paper media. I print myself using a range of papers, including roll paper, on an Epson P800, up to 16x32. I will (rarely) use a local custom print shop for larger images. For me it's too hard to get the print right without multiple passes at it, which is prohibitive with commercial printers. Framing:
1) At the low end, Ikea sells a range of sizes of ridiculously inexpensive frames (faux-wood black frame, mounting, backing, mat, glass) that I use a lot for 'low end' uses. The drawback is that the frames are non-standard sizes and the supplied mats are odd aspect ratios and sizes. Or:
2) Cut new mats for the Ikea frames.
3) I have a collection of Framatic reusable frames, designed to be simple to open and replace the image. Good for the places where I'm swapping the photos around fairly frequently.
4) I order framing material from Frame Destination in various custom sizes. They will cut the frames and mats to whatever size you want. The drawback here is that glass is tricky to ship and I don't like acrylic.
5) For permanent use I go to several local high quality framing shops.
I mount using corners or linen tape hinges.
Amazon has a fair selection of sizes of standard mats. I also will cut my own mats but try to avoid that since cutting a precise sharp-edged mat seems to be beyond my skills.
For now, I'm doing fewer mega-sized images, preferring smaller images that let people get closer and more intimate with an image. I've been printing and framing themed collections of images at approx 5x7, 8x10, and 8x12, using papers from metallic and pearl/luster to matte and watercolor. I'm finding that the way people engage with smaller images is different than how they deal with very large 'grand' displays.
My .02c
1) At the low end, Ikea sells a range of sizes of ridiculously inexpensive frames (faux-wood black frame, mounting, backing, mat, glass) that I use a lot for 'low end' uses. The drawback is that the frames are non-standard sizes and the supplied mats are odd aspect ratios and sizes. Or:
2) Cut new mats for the Ikea frames.
3) I have a collection of Framatic reusable frames, designed to be simple to open and replace the image. Good for the places where I'm swapping the photos around fairly frequently.
4) I order framing material from Frame Destination in various custom sizes. They will cut the frames and mats to whatever size you want. The drawback here is that glass is tricky to ship and I don't like acrylic.
5) For permanent use I go to several local high quality framing shops.
I mount using corners or linen tape hinges.
Amazon has a fair selection of sizes of standard mats. I also will cut my own mats but try to avoid that since cutting a precise sharp-edged mat seems to be beyond my skills.
For now, I'm doing fewer mega-sized images, preferring smaller images that let people get closer and more intimate with an image. I've been printing and framing themed collections of images at approx 5x7, 8x10, and 8x12, using papers from metallic and pearl/luster to matte and watercolor. I'm finding that the way people engage with smaller images is different than how they deal with very large 'grand' displays.
My .02c
I print some stuff for home and some stuff for putting into an art gallery. How I print something and on what varies. I do seem to be inclined, in general, to go with a mat and frame but I'm trying to push myself into other types of treatments. I print most everything from my Epson 3000, unless I need something larger than it can print. I buy frames at various places. I have had images printed on metal through Bay Photo. Just a few days ago I ordered some canvas prints and acrylic blocks, also Bay Photo, to go into the gallery I'm in, this will be my first experience with both. I do think at the gallery I'm in prints that are on metal or acrylic sometimes seem to sell more often, but that is not a scientific take at all. I've sold prints on both metal and the standard mat/frame approach. I like to print on card stock and I put the cards in the gallery and they seem to sell fairly well. For a bedroom at home I printed several prints (from a photo trip to Venice) and matted and framed them and hung them gallery style and I really liked the effect. I also print books with a lot of full-page spreads, coffee-table size. In my office/studio I have a miss-mash of frames hung without much thought, but they are the prints that got an award and I'm mostly the only one in the office so I'm fine with it. Cards are also nice to give as gifts to friends and family, the cards shown are from a recent trip to Sitka, Alaska. I think there are way too many options these days and its hard to decide which one to choose!
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Wonderful examples of how to display your beautiful photography! (And I really like the ceiling and wall treatment in the guest bedroom! LOL! I considered painting our master BR ceiling dark brown......!)
I love these albums!
Calson
Well-known member
For dealing with dozens of images I like to have the lab drymount the prints on mat board or Masonite depending on the size of the print and then I put them in a pre-made frame with glass to protect the print. For very large prints I use a double mat to prevent the glass from ever touching the surface of the print.
The frames that are metal and designed for assembly by the user allow me to use the same frame and glass for one print and later use it for a different print. I buy pre-cut mats which saves a great deal of money. Picture glass cost per square inch can vary from less than $2 for an 10 x 12 piece of glass to more than $8 depending upon where one buy it. Cheapest is with it as part of a pre-made frame.
It takes a bit of time to decide on a mat and frame size that works for most of ones images and that are available in bulk quantities but by doing so one can reduce the total costs by 75% with no loss in the end product.
Great info - many thanks for sharing, and posting your images. I love what you’ve done!
Thanks for your comment on my photography and the wall treatment...it went with the Craftsman style house.
Patrick, the photo albums/books are created in LrC Book Module and the program sends the file to Blurb for printing. Blurb does a great job and their customer service is also very good. Of the 20 or so books I've done one did come unbound and they immediately sent me a reprinted book. For 90% of each book there is only one photo per page and there are always a lot of full page bleeds. They cost me anywhere from $60 to $90 depending on number of pages and I do look for coupons, although it seems I'm not usually ready to print when they have a sale!
O
Well-known member
No i do this with all prints.
When i walk in a room i want to see the print not reflections or a frame attracting my eye first.
The timber frame blends in seamlessly with the white of the sheet and wall integrating the artwork more seamlessly into its environment, the print has a pop and its the first thing that you see, you don't get distracted with a bold or intimidating frame.
60x80cm in cases but mostly 1x1.2 or 1.4 meter is the size.
With panoramic size of 28cm x184cm that comes out to 2 meters after framing i use no mat board to preserve the panoramic look, paper hinges at the top, a 4mm insert around the edge to hold the glass off the print hence the same 40x35mm white timber profile.
There are two ways I go, full archival if tits important.
For nice casual enjoyable small stuff i like i use IKEA frames which are the way to go.
My girlfriend likes no frames and has prints glued down onto a thin block of foam. I am in ways partial to that as well in some cases.
I dislike a wall where the frame dominates, the frame should be a subtle accessory, neutral simple.
My environment is i like everything white, walls floors ceilings windows doors skirting boards and architraves, it demonstrates space and light with neutrality, a bit like a clean blank canvas, then i allow the furnishings and accessories to add contrast colour interest, you then always see the print/artwork never just the frame at first, i like lots of glass, sun, light, green foliage and sky visible from every position, luckily we live in a warm beach like environment.
Only an opinion
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Once I get the printing training on my new Epson 8550 worked out…I personally thing that mounting on black gatorboard and no frame is the way to go…I assume there's some sort of spray adhesive to use at home but not being a crafter is there a go to solution for that? Second alternative would be some plain black frames…heavy frames and mats aren't my style for other art in the house these days
I like to use a plain black frame with standard white mat (both from www.FrameUSA.com ) and rotate images using the same frame and mat. Over time you do have to replace some mats, but it's easy and keeps the cost down. I don't use adhesive spray because it would ruin reuse of the print and the backboard. I use artists tape to make a simple T-hinge and attach the print to the mat. Artist tape is generally removeable without damage.
O
Well-known member
Just more hinge mounts spread well apart to avoid corrugation or waves in the paper sheet occurring.
Framing is a very personal thing.
I bought a Seal Commercial 210 M Dry Mount Press on ebay which will mount a 17x22 in one operation. Some form of Gater Board (foam core board) works the best for me as a backing. I have used 4 ply mat board but it absorbs moisture from the air and warps with the seasons.
I usually print to the proportions that best suit each photo allowing a generous boarder (roughly 2 inches) instead of cutting a mat. I often put a thin black boarder around the photo using Layers in Affinity or Photoshop.
I usually print to the proportions that best suit each photo allowing a generous boarder (roughly 2 inches) instead of cutting a mat. I often put a thin black boarder around the photo using Layers in Affinity or Photoshop.
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Thanks…once I know what I’m doing printing wise I will have to try various options. Minimalist or no frames and no mats fits our decorating style.
That's what I do, no frame, no mats. I have a lot of windows, not so much wall space and most prints are there for evaluation to see which ones stay.
Captain Spaulding
Active member
All the photos I've hung have either been printed to metal or stretched canvas. I've used the canvas for a couple of images taken with a Lumix point and shoot. The files were obviously low resolution but it was relatively early in my photographic journey and I REALLY like(d) them. The textured, matte nature of the canvas surface combined with the iffy resolution gives them a more "painted" look. By no means photo realistic, but I like the treatment.
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