Nikon 180-600mm lens ship date

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This goes back to the thing where nikon apparently underestimated demand.

Sure, some of that is one person ordering from multiple places. But... Really? Someone really screwed their market research up on this one.
Agree. Nikon had this lens on the 'roadmap' for several years. A simple google search would've found sites like this, one and I'm sure there are others, with ongoing discussions repeatedly commenting on the desirability of this lens. Either their marketing research was way off , the people making final decisions on production weren't listening or there is another supply chain/manufacturing problem.
 
A large chunk of the reported demand problems that have been publicised in the usual places (a certain rumors website) appear to have resulted from the fact that a huge number of people in the US order from two online dealers with the objective of saving in tax. Anecdotally, many who order from smaller dealers seem to have much better luck in acquiring their order in a reasonable time. I myself ordered in such a dealer and had my z9 within 12 weeks while others were still moaning about their orders being endlessly delayed in two well known online dealers.
Yes, but I'm going off what Thom said, which is they will struggle (or not be able to meet) nps orders.

I'm first in line at my local shop, but this still doesn't build a lot of confidence in nikon management if they failed to figure out this was going to be a lens everyone wanted.
 
Email today from Service Photo in Baltimore.
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Hi, Everyone, I am new here and also preordered this lens on day one it was announced. Hope to it will be shipped soon. I have a different questions. I wonder how well the 1.4x TC works on this lens? From my past experience, TC usually works pretty well for big prime lens but not so good with zoom lens. I had tried TC1.4 for the sigma 150-600mm, it was not good so I returned the TC. I saw some positive comments on how well the 1.4x on this lens on youtube and was debating whether to buy a TC. The extra reach is very helpful for my bird photography. Thank you!
 
Hi, Everyone, I am new here and also preordered this lens on day one it was announced. Hope to it will be shipped soon. I have a different questions. I wonder how well the 1.4x TC works on this lens? From my past experience, TC usually works pretty well for big prime lens but not so good with zoom lens. I had tried TC1.4 for the sigma 150-600mm, it was not good so I returned the TC. I saw some positive comments on how well the 1.4x on this lens on youtube and was debating whether to buy a TC. The extra reach is very helpful for my bird photography. Thank you!
I’ve used the 1.4 TC with a 100-400 Z lens. Other than somewhat slower AF response it worked quite well. I have the same expectation for its performance with the 180-600 lens.
 
Hi, Everyone, I am new here and also preordered this lens on day one it was announced. Hope to it will be shipped soon. I have a different questions. I wonder how well the 1.4x TC works on this lens? From my past experience, TC usually works pretty well for big prime lens but not so good with zoom lens. I had tried TC1.4 for the sigma 150-600mm, it was not good so I returned the TC. I saw some positive comments on how well the 1.4x on this lens on youtube and was debating whether to buy a TC. The extra reach is very helpful for my bird photography. Thank you!
I think that the answer to your question is not a simple one.
First, how discriminating are you? For some people, the criteria is getting the subject in the frame and sharp enough for instagram and facebook. For others, it's about printability.
Second, what is the quality of light? If you have direct light with a "softbox" sky, it is likely that the lens will be ok with a 1.4x.
Third, how close are you to your subject? If you are using the 1.4x to photograph a rabbit at 100m, it is likely that you will not be satisfied. On the other hand, if you are photographing a cardinal at 8m, it is likely that the converter will be ok.
Fourth, how far is the background from your subject? If your subject is agains a messy background, the 1.4x will make things worse, it the background is 20m from a subject that you are photographing at 10m, the 1.4x will not increase the distraction.

I barely like the 1.4x on my 400 f4.5, I refuse to use it on my 800PF, and I definitely will not use it on the 180-600 if I decide to keep the lens.

regards,
bruce
 
I think that the answer to your question is not a simple one.
First, how discriminating are you? For some people, the criteria is getting the subject in the frame and sharp enough for instagram and facebook. For others, it's about printability.
Second, what is the quality of light? If you have direct light with a "softbox" sky, it is likely that the lens will be ok with a 1.4x.
Third, how close are you to your subject? If you are using the 1.4x to photograph a rabbit at 100m, it is likely that you will not be satisfied. On the other hand, if you are photographing a cardinal at 8m, it is likely that the converter will be ok.
Fourth, how far is the background from your subject? If your subject is agains a messy background, the 1.4x will make things worse, it the background is 20m from a subject that you are photographing at 10m, the 1.4x will not increase the distraction.

I barely like the 1.4x on my 400 f4.5, I refuse to use it on my 800PF, and I definitely will not use it on the 180-600 if I decide to keep the lens.

regards,
bruce
Hi Bruce, thank you very much for your input and I know this is not a quick and easy answer. Very appreciate and you are absolutely correct on all these points. Everyone's expectation is different, for me I still want good quality for sure. I understand the down side using TC and I don't expect having TC works every time. But if it works decently well for some scenario, for example a bald eagle getting fish that is a little far for 600mm, if TC can get me the reach while still provide decent good quality at good light condition, I will take it.
 
Hi Bruce, thank you very much for your input and I know this is not a quick and easy answer. Very appreciate and you are absolutely correct on all these points. Everyone's expectation is different, for me I still want good quality for sure. I understand the down side using TC and I don't expect having TC works every time. But if it works decently well for some scenario, for example a bald eagle getting fish that is a little far for 600mm, if TC can get me the reach while still provide decent good quality at good light condition, I will take it.
My opinion differs from Bruce’s…but then my output goes almost exclusively to the blog…and at screen downsampled resolution…the difference in IQ for either the 100-400 or the 400/4.5 with or without the 1.4 is indistinguishable. There are some minor differences in bokeh and background depending…but it’s more just different than better or worse. The 2.0 is a little more noticeable…but again f9r screen output it’s more than satisfactory. Is it as good as an 800 or either of the 5 figure exotic telephotos…probably not…but it’s a lot cheaper and there’s that old story about better being the enemy of good enough. So…it all depends on your definition of good enough and how much cash, backpack weight, and lower flex of a prime you are willing to have. For my purposes…the 1.4 is as excellent as the bare lens outside the 1 stop light loss…and the 2.0 is still plenty usable…especially with modern processing software tools we have. If I was a pro making money with it like Steve…i would probably have the primes…but like his video said…he’s keeping his copy because sometimes you just need the flexibility of the zoom lens. I can’t argue one way or the other about the slower AF with the TCs…never tried to measure it but I usually use the focus limit switch anyway to speed things up and if the TC slows it down it doesn’t do it enough for me to notice.
 
Hi Bruce, thank you very much for your input and I know this is not a quick and easy answer. Very appreciate and you are absolutely correct on all these points. Everyone's expectation is different, for me I still want good quality for sure. I understand the down side using TC and I don't expect having TC works every time. But if it works decently well for some scenario, for example a bald eagle getting fish that is a little far for 600mm, if TC can get me the reach while still provide decent good quality at good light condition, I will take it.
My opinion differs from Bruce’s…but then my output goes almost exclusively to the blog…and at screen downsampled resolution…the difference in IQ for either the 100-400 or the 400/4.5 with or without the 1.4 is indistinguishable. There are some minor differences in bokeh and background depending…but it’s more just different than better or worse. The 2.0 is a little more noticeable…but again f9r screen output it’s more than satisfactory. Is it as good as an 800 or either of the 5 figure exotic telephotos…probably not…but it’s a lot cheaper and there’s that old story about better being the enemy of good enough. So…it all depends on your definition of good enough and how much cash, backpack weight, and lower flex of a prime you are willing to have. For my purposes…the 1.4 is as excellent as the bare lens outside the 1 stop light loss…and the 2.0 is still plenty usable…especially with modern processing software tools we have. If I was a pro making money with it like Steve…i would probably have the primes…but like his video said…he’s keeping his copy because sometimes you just need the flexibility of the zoom lens. I can’t argue one way or the other about the slower AF with the TCs…never tried to measure it but I usually use the focus limit switch anyway to speed things up and if the TC slows it down it doesn’t do it enough for me to notice.
Anjin, I don't think our opinions about the 1.4x are all that different. I think if you look at my list, you'll see that I am pretty clear about when the 1.4x will not impact your images. However, if someone is buying a $1700 180-600 f6.3 to put a 1.4x converter on it and expecting "excellence," then I think they will be disappointed. In my humble opinion, there are better ways to get to the ultra telephoto range without having to convert and f6.3 lens to an f/8.8 lens.
The following are my suggestions...
1. If you are using a 47MP camera and you need more focal length, shoot your 180-600 in DX crop mode. Doing this will get you to a 900mm field of view while maintaining a faster maximum aperture and autofocus.
2. If you want the best quality you can get for less, get a 500PF and use the TC1.4III with FTZ. This will get you 700mm f/8 and if you need more, shoot that at DX crop to get to slightly over 1000mm field of view at f8.

As good as modern zooms are, they are a compromise optic. I carry a mix of zooms and primes, I just recognize the limitations for my shooting needs.
Finally, for the record... I have ordered the 180-600 and I am hoping that it is a strong lens. I loved my former 200-400 f4VR with all of its warts. A lens like this allows you to be a flexible shooter and to travel with less gear. Once I eventually get my lens, I will do a controlled comparison between it and my other lenses...
cheers,
bruce
 
Anjin, I don't think our opinions about the 1.4x are all that different. I think if you look at my list, you'll see that I am pretty clear about when the 1.4x will not impact your images. However, if someone is buying a $1700 180-600 f6.3 to put a 1.4x converter on it and expecting "excellence," then I think they will be disappointed. In my humble opinion, there are better ways to get to the ultra telephoto range without having to convert and f6.3 lens to an f/8.8 lens.
The following are my suggestions...
1. If you are using a 47MP camera and you need more focal length, shoot your 180-600 in DX crop mode. Doing this will get you to a 900mm field of view while maintaining a faster maximum aperture and autofocus.
2. If you want the best quality you can get for less, get a 500PF and use the TC1.4III with FTZ. This will get you 700mm f/8 and if you need more, shoot that at DX crop to get to slightly over 1000mm field of view at f8.

As good as modern zooms are, they are a compromise optic. I carry a mix of zooms and primes, I just recognize the limitations for my shooting needs.
Finally, for the record... I have ordered the 180-600 and I am hoping that it is a strong lens. I loved my former 200-400 f4VR with all of its warts. A lens like this allows you to be a flexible shooter and to travel with less gear. Once I eventually get my lens, I will do a controlled comparison between it and my other lenses...
cheers,
bruce

I've never been a fan of the suggestion that you can get more focal length by shooting in DX mode. You can change your field of view by doing that, but you are absolutely not getting anything equivalent to a longer focal length.

A narrower field of view is one factor in getting a longer focal length, though it's not nearly as meaningful a factor as it once was in the days of film or the earlier days of lower megapixel digitals.

Another factor, and the one I'd argue most people are actually looking for from longer focal lengths in 2013, 2018, 2023, etc., is increased magnification/the ability to resolve more detail at greater focal distances. People are looking to be able to photograph, say, an egret at a certain distance and have it fill their frame rather than be 50% of the frame, or get it to 50% rather than only 25%, so that the egret will look sharper and have more texture and more detail. Now shooting on a true DX camera can sometimes give you this if its sensor is adequate. For instance, some APS-C cameras out there have something like 30 MP sensors, which really does give a bit more detail to subjects at a certain distance than DX mode on a 45 MP sensor.

However, given that you are just cropping off the FF edges of a FF sensor and taking the APS-C portion of it, you're gaining no detail or magnification whatsoever.

A teleconverter, on the other hand, can at least theoretically provide more real detail as it is an optical magnifier. It's true that oftentimes the resolution of a lens being magnified by the TC is insufficient to meaningfully yield more detail and so in practice using the TC is not any better than just cropping an original - either in camera by changing to DX more or in post. However, a TC at least has the theoretical possibility of providing more detail on a more distant subject in a way that switching to DX mode never can. This is why people like to at least give them a try and hope they'll work well with a given lens. If that doesn't work, it doesn't work, but I've never understood how switching to DX mode is supposed to yield any improvement in this regard.
 
I've never been a fan of the suggestion that you can get more focal length by shooting in DX mode. You can change your field of view by doing that, but you are absolutely not getting anything equivalent to a longer focal length.

A narrower field of view is one factor in getting a longer focal length, though it's not nearly as meaningful a factor as it once was in the days of film or the earlier days of lower megapixel digitals.

Another factor, and the one I'd argue most people are actually looking for from longer focal lengths in 2013, 2018, 2023, etc., is increased magnification/the ability to resolve more detail at greater focal distances. People are looking to be able to photograph, say, an egret at a certain distance and have it fill their frame rather than be 50% of the frame, or get it to 50% rather than only 25%, so that the egret will look sharper and have more texture and more detail. Now shooting on a true DX camera can sometimes give you this if its sensor is adequate. For instance, some APS-C cameras out there have something like 30 MP sensors, which really does give a bit more detail to subjects at a certain distance than DX mode on a 45 MP sensor.

However, given that you are just cropping off the FF edges of a FF sensor and taking the APS-C portion of it, you're gaining no detail or magnification whatsoever.

A teleconverter, on the other hand, can at least theoretically provide more real detail as it is an optical magnifier. It's true that oftentimes the resolution of a lens being magnified by the TC is insufficient to meaningfully yield more detail and so in practice using the TC is not any better than just cropping an original - either in camera by changing to DX more or in post. However, a TC at least has the theoretical possibility of providing more detail on a more distant subject in a way that switching to DX mode never can. This is why people like to at least give them a try and hope they'll work well with a given lens. If that doesn't work, it doesn't work, but I've never understood how switching to DX mode is supposed to yield any improvement in this regard.
Thank you for saying this!! It drives me crazy when people state they have more focal length in dx mode or with a dx camera!:LOL:
 
Thank you for saying this!! It drives me crazy when people state they have more focal length in dx mode or with a dx camera!:LOL:
In reference to one of his points (I agree with him on everything), I think this mindset comes from the days where crop sensors were 20mp (or whatever), but... So were ff sensors. So you got many more pixels on target for a given focal length. Now, the difference is much less in a lot of cases.
 
In reference to one of his points (I agree with him on everything), I think this mindset comes from the days where crop sensors were 20mp (or whatever), but... So were ff sensors. So you got many more pixels on target for a given focal length. Now, the difference is much less in a lot of cases.
Absolutely agree. The comparison which drove me crazy was comparing the Nikon D850 to the Nikon D500 where the pixel density was about the same and that using the D500 gave you more focal length.
 
I've never been a fan of the suggestion that you can get more focal length by shooting in DX mode. You can change your field of view by doing that, but you are absolutely not getting anything equivalent to a longer focal length.

A narrower field of view is one factor in getting a longer focal length, though it's not nearly as meaningful a factor as it once was in the days of film or the earlier days of lower megapixel digitals.

Another factor, and the one I'd argue most people are actually looking for from longer focal lengths in 2013, 2018, 2023, etc., is increased magnification/the ability to resolve more detail at greater focal distances. People are looking to be able to photograph, say, an egret at a certain distance and have it fill their frame rather than be 50% of the frame, or get it to 50% rather than only 25%, so that the egret will look sharper and have more texture and more detail. Now shooting on a true DX camera can sometimes give you this if its sensor is adequate. For instance, some APS-C cameras out there have something like 30 MP sensors, which really does give a bit more detail to subjects at a certain distance than DX mode on a 45 MP sensor.

However, given that you are just cropping off the FF edges of a FF sensor and taking the APS-C portion of it, you're gaining no detail or magnification whatsoever.

A teleconverter, on the other hand, can at least theoretically provide more real detail as it is an optical magnifier. It's true that oftentimes the resolution of a lens being magnified by the TC is insufficient to meaningfully yield more detail and so in practice using the TC is not any better than just cropping an original - either in camera by changing to DX more or in post. However, a TC at least has the theoretical possibility of providing more detail on a more distant subject in a way that switching to DX mode never can. This is why people like to at least give them a try and hope they'll work well with a given lens. If that doesn't work, it doesn't work, but I've never understood how switching to DX mode is supposed to yield any improvement in this regard.
I am just curious if you read what I wrote... not once did I state that you have an increased focal length by switching to DX mode... This is lifted from my response:
"1. If you are using a 47MP camera and you need more focal length, shoot your 180-600 in DX crop mode. Doing this will get you to a 900mm field of view while maintaining a faster maximum aperture and autofocus.
2. If you want the best quality you can get for less, get a 500PF and use the TC1.4III with FTZ. This will get you 700mm f/8 and if you need more, shoot that at DX crop to get to slightly over 1000mm field of view at f8. "

In both cases, I refer to the change in field of view.
As I have stated in this thread and in man others,... for my work, I find teleconverters to do more harm than good. A converter causes you to lose a stop or two of light, they reduce the speed of the autofocus system, and they magnify any aberrations that are an inherent part of the optical design.
Until the photo community actually has a 180-600 to use, its performance with or without a converter is a mystery. A number of people are already up in arms with the possibility that the Nikon may be softer at 600mm than the Sony 200-600 is at 600mm. If the latter is true (a point that means little to me), then the addition of a converter will only degrade the image more.

Personally, I'd never add a converter to a lens whose maximum aperture is f6.3... I even try not to use my 1.4x with my 400 f4.5. On the other hand, I'd have no problem using a converter with an f/2.8 or f/4 telephoto primes. While these converters often negatively impact the bokeh, if the subject to background distance is large, and bokeh shortcomings will be negligible.

I look forward to seeing how the 180-600 performs with a converter... but based on my many decades of shooting, I already know that it won't be for me.

cheers,
bruce
 
I am just curious if you read what I wrote... not once did I state that you have an increased focal length by switching to DX mode... This is lifted from my response:
"1. If you are using a 47MP camera and you need more focal length, shoot your 180-600 in DX crop mode. Doing this will get you to a 900mm field of view while maintaining a faster maximum aperture and autofocus.
"If you are using a 47MP camera and you need more focal length" strongly implies that whatever follows is going to be something which will provide increased focal length. In fact, I'd argue that the statement is nonsensical if what follows does not attempt to somehow provide a greater focal length.

It's true that you mention the field of view, but I don't understand why this would matter. You can easily obtain the same thing using even the most basic image editor on a cell phone. For this reason, along with the fact that you had preceded this with "if... you need more focal length," I interpreted the statement to have to do with focal length rather than merely with field of view alone.

All questions of misunderstanding or miscommunication aside, I think the bottom line is that people looking for more focal length than 600mm are not going to gain anything from shooting in DX mode but may from a TC if the lens works well with one. I think you're right: there's a good chance it won't! On the other hand, in reading copious amounts of user reports and looking at sample images, a few things definitely seem true:

1) TCs appear to work drastically better on mirrorless cameras than they did on DSLRs. Most reports of disappointing results from TCs come from DSLR days, while there are a fair number of reports from people who were disappointed with TCs on their DSLRs and found that after trying the combo on mirrorless it worked much better. There are also many reports of people who found that by fine tuning their lens on a DSLR body with the TC attached they got much more satisfying results, which seems to support the thought that mirrorless cameras yield better TC results. None of this guarantees any success, but it certainly gives reason for people to think it's worth a try.

2) Z TCs seem to work far better than F-mount TCs as a general rule.

Between these two facts, it's reasonable that a person may want to see how it goes before dismissing the idea of a 180-600 + TC.

2. If you want the best quality you can get for less, get a 500PF and use the TC1.4III with FTZ. This will get you 700mm f/8 and if you need more, shoot that at DX crop to get to slightly over 1000mm field of view at f8. "

In both cases, I refer to the change in field of view.
As I have stated in this thread and in man others,... for my work, I find teleconverters to do more harm than good. A converter causes you to lose a stop or two of light, they reduce the speed of the autofocus system, and they magnify any aberrations that are an inherent part of the optical design.
Until the photo community actually has a 180-600 to use, its performance with or without a converter is a mystery. A number of people are already up in arms with the possibility that the Nikon may be softer at 600mm than the Sony 200-600 is at 600mm. If the latter is true (a point that means little to me), then the addition of a converter will only degrade the image more.

Personally, I'd never add a converter to a lens whose maximum aperture is f6.3... I even try not to use my 1.4x with my 400 f4.5. On the other hand, I'd have no problem using a converter with an f/2.8 or f/4 telephoto primes. While these converters often negatively impact the bokeh, if the subject to background distance is large, and bokeh shortcomings will be negligible.

I look forward to seeing how the 180-600 performs with a converter... but based on my many decades of shooting, I already know that it won't be for me.

cheers,
bruce
 
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